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Torque wrenches for undoing glow plugs (for example) are reversible and click both ways, respectable ones are also calibrated both ways. shear torque is under 35Nm, we're not talking subframe bolts here. There is nothing wrong with undoing glow plugs to a specified shear torque, which by the way is 2-3 times higher than the tightening torque but still relatively small, see earlier thread on this :https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/511440-glow-plug-replacement/#findComment-5848987 For a low to medium torque such as glow plugs, it is perfectly possible to apply almost symmetric load by holding one hand on the handle of the wrench and the other hand on the top of the pivot. I agree than using just the handle of the wrench results in far more asymmetric load and may break the plug. The problem with T-bar is that although the load is symmetric, you may easily apply way more than is needed and shear the plug. It is far better to attempt using a reversible torque wrench set below shear torque and if the glow plug does not move, put some more penetrant oil around it and drive around a bit more. For a DIY mechanic, far better to wait a day or two than to snap the glow plug IMHO. Also, on a hot engine, you will find that the glow plug movement is far more gradual affair, most of the horror stories about glow plugs snapping during removal are from "mechanics" trying to undo them on a cold engine, without penetrant oil. Under these adverse conditions, even undoing a solid steel bolt that's been in place for many years is a hit and miss affair. In summary: warm up the engine, use penetrant oil and a double sided torque wrench set below max allowed torque and held with 2 hands, one on the axis of rotation. This is all that is needed to avoid your own snapped glow plug horror story. HTH.

Thank you.

Great, but no point in trying to get to the threads via head end of bolt. Gotta go in from open end of thread in console.

I would suggest putting aside £800-£1600 at least for a new clutch pack by 150,000 miles. If it’s done a lot of city driving it could be a lot sooner. I bought a Fabia DSG which had mostly done motorway miles. Now at 125,000 and on the original clutch pack with no problems or codes. Besides a test drive; setting off on an incline with no gas peddle. Any noise? Is it smooth changing? I’d personally buy a code reader and give the car you like a scan to see if there are any codes on the transmission module. A worn clutch pack won’t put on engine check light necessarily.

Hey Briskoda community! I am new here Little background, I have a new 2026 Skoda Karok, with the MIB3 system. I have an issue while driving, randomly, my system freeze and not responsive, I can't do anything, my music is muted OR my phone call stoped. To fix it I did a restart via a long press on the power knob. Is that a known thing with Karok MIB3? For example I saw this instructions: https://servicereset.net/maintenance/skoda-karoq-2017-present-infotainment-reset/ When I gone to the Skoda garage, first they update the system to 0519, but it happaned again, then they tried to blame it on my IPhone 15 Pro phone becuse i was connected with AppleCarPlay, however, I dont believe my phone can break the whole system, I would figure if that was the case, only the carplay would reset and the system would work. I had a Golf 2017 before that and didnt have any issues with the system. I would appriceate if you can give me any insights about this behavior and if the garage is correct or not. Thanks!

@sussamb owns both, so should be well placed to answer any questions.

Metal grey, matte, match with the mirrors (golf r doing that with the blue, looks cool)

Going for the matte black instead of the red. Looks mean! Stage 2, +300ps, +500nm, now on Michelin PS5, 245/35/19. Next on the list: Sachs performance clutch, upgraded turbo (Garret G2260) and Bilsteins B8

Dont think they have ever been out. Car is pretty good re rust as it I think came from way down south and has 75k on clock. Will give everything a good soak in fluid for a few days before hand. Have been having great success with 50/50 ATF/Diesel mix. Had a couple of litres of ATF that was fairly old so decided to mix with diesel and use in a pump up spray. Seems to creep into threads very well and doesnt dry out so quick like wd40 etc. Alasdair

Many thanks - will follow up. Its been like looking for a needle in a haystack!!

These any good: 6Q2612041CD – 6Q2612041CD - SKODA | WW Spares VAG 6Q2612041CD - Druckrohr Brake hose/pipe OE VAG 6Q2612041CD — Twinauto online store

The ones that go through subframe, front bush of wishbone and then into long alloy thread of the console. The thread goes all the way through the console, so you can get to the open end and spray penetrating fluid in there. Trouble comes generally if bolts have been reused previously, and their anti-corrosion coating damaged. Then it can be a 'cluster-hug' of corrosion and thread galling. If it really jams up well it's replacement console too.

I expect my 1.0 DSG does the same, but I tend to pre=empt things to a certain extent by going into Sport ,when I think I need some instant power, otherwise there's a little hesitation before the engine/DSG combo sorts itself out. I didn't feel the need to use Sport on my previous 1.2 DSG Yeti, but no hardship with the Karoq.

Hello, can i have the download link or the file for the firmware update? Thank youuu.

Many thanks for that reassurance. Have been driving it regularly and as you say just need to press the brake pedal a bit harder. I recently tried a few online vehicle breakers with a request for the part but am awaiting replies. Not sure if items bought this way are risky or expensive but will see what response if any I get.

A PHEV is never running out of battery completely... When your battery state of charge reaches 0% on the dashboard there's actually a battery capacity (not accessible by the user) that still has some charge left such that your car is still able to drive like a simple HEV - using electric or combustion-engine propulsion in a way that is fully decided by the hybrid system. That battery capacity is sufficient to run the AC as the user/driver demands. When it gets too low, the ICE kicks in and generates some more electricity...

That's exactly what you would expect , the DSG is monitoring engine load (rpm & throttle position) and adjusting the gear change points accordingly so that the engine doesn't 'labour' and holds lower gears when load is higher!. Its no different on a 1.5 TSI with a dry clutch, gear change points are still dynamically adjusted.

I had always been told that you shouldnt use a torque wrench to undo things. They are calibrated for tightening and applying force in the opposite direction can mess up the calibrations. Also the breaking force required to undo something, especially in a heat cycle location, usually far outweighs the torque setting when tightening up. Using a T bar allows you to have a solid connection through to the glow plug and you will be able to judge how much force you are applying just fine! The annoying thing with glow plugs is they move or they dont, its quite a sudden release when they do, and until you carry on undoing it theres no way to know whether its snapped or undone! Wishing you luck!

Thank you soo much for your reply. I thought there was some setting that could be adjusted. I didn't thought that the a/c will be fully electric. But what about when you run out of battery and outside temperature are high like this summer, the a/c compressor will stop working?

Meant to ask what bolts you mean by front ones. Alasdair

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/227518741122 Currently have it listed on eBay but I’m getting messed about (surprise, surprise) so once it ends it will be for sale only to Briskoda members. If you’re interested drop me a message. Cheers, Ryan.

Thanks - I thought that might be the situation.

I tend to read the reviews on here before buying tyres. Not bought winter tyres yet but it helped when my daughter wanted all seasons. https://www.tyrereviews.com/

I've never heard of such a modification - it should be next-to-impossible because there's other functions that electric compressor is used for - other than climate. E.g. the hybrid system uses it to manage the HV-system temperature. So there would be lots of special coding to be done on various units that were not already done from the factory. The main reason for this platform to use an electric compressor is that the PHEV concept is also intended to be used exclusively electric over short distances; this purpose would be unachievable if the compressor would be driven by the ICE. The AC compressor is only used to cool the car or dry the air/interior, it's never used to heat the car. For that purpose the VAG PHEV platform uses a PTC heating element - which is obviously draining the HV battery. That's of course valid until the cooling liquid of the thermal engine heats up - and then it takes over the heating function. I'm not sure, but I think the rear window and the seat heating most likely use the 12V battery of the car as is the case on non-hybrid variants. I'm constantly using the App to cool or heat the cabin when exterior temperatures are too high or too low. I'm also using it to control (start/stop) the charging process in some cases.

For the 2.0TDI it was 210,000km (130,000 miles) or 5 years, I believe it is now 210,000km (130,000 miles). I had my first one done at 141,000km that was done by the dealer when I bought the car, he was more used to dealing with early MKiii which did have a bad water pump in the 2013-2015 models. I got the last one done at 242,000km.