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I have a Fabia 1.4tdi 2009 and every winter I have an issue with the instrument cluster flashing and beeping on a cold start. This only happens when the car is cold, once warmed up the issue goes away. I’ve taken the cluster out and taken to a cluster repair specialist but they couldn’t find any faults (although I did drive to them and problem had gone away by the time I reached them). A few other observations I've noticed when this happens: sometimes the clock resets back to 00:00 as it warms up, the problem changes in that the cluster works fine for 10-15 seconds and then beeps 3 times as if its resetting no issues with radio, fan, internal lights, etc when this is happening if I have the headlights on the beam light on cluster is not affected (ie. everything else is flashing but that isn't impacted) Can't upload videos as they are too big so hope you guys can see these video links: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Idh3pB5Cwqo46qo1DZxd8pRM6GQX5ix9/view?usp=sharing https://drive.google.com/file/d/151agm9it9jrHUWum-JavA5lYXz3mrzK8/view?usp=sharing Anyone seen a similar issue? Could it be a problem external to the cluster (eg. a sensor giving a bad reading or something while cold). Also, I’ve seen photos of a few different clusters in these forums and online but never seen the one I have. Is it a cluster that was used for a limited time. Any advice would be appreciated. Everything else on the car runs perfect.

Shame it excludes the 1.8TSI, but since that's also an EA888 engine (like the 2.0TSI) I'm hopeful there's enough commonality for it to still be useful.

The lowest range of Ohms, probably 200. Yes, pin 11, black/yellow wire.

The language of this forum is English please post only in English.

Ah right I see what number ohms should I be on it’s went a bit rainy at the moment so I can’t do that now am I also correct in saying that PIN number 11 is the black and yellow one?

Once you know which the load side is (0V from first measurement), you are then switching meter to measure resistance (Ohms). From that pin where there was OV, to chassis or battery negative. Report that number. A dead short will read 0 Ohms (and so cause fuse to blow if connected).

When you say a dead short would you say that when I put it on the pin it would read 0 volts? I kind of assumed that because it’s not connected to the other side which supplies the power? Kind of confused sorry

One side says 12v (female) the other says 0

Finally getting round to doing this today with work and it getting darker at night will try now

I did a test on mine today with a Topdon battery tester. My car is a diesel vRS 2.5 years old and 75,000 miles. The test result ( attached) doesn’t look promising . Do i have symptoms? Kind of. Mostly the odd low voltage code but it seems to crank strong enough ( even on a frosty morning) and the start stop works flawlessly. I was hoovering the car out the other day with doors open for about 20 mins and the crank did seem a little low afterwards with a tyre pressure monitor fault briefly flashing up on the screen. Should it be replaced? 2.5 years doesn’t seem long but my car probably has more extreme usage than most. Anyone else changed your batteries prematurely?

Hola. Alguna actualizacion para mi MST2_EU_SK_ZR_P0359T. Gracias de antemano.

Hi all! Early this year I purchased a lovely red 2.0tsi Octavia vRS Mk3 which I absolutely adore. However, I've had an issue since i bought it (which i didnt notice at the time) that when i open my doors, or turn the ignition off, the interior lights don't come on at all. hey do work with turning them on manually, and i have tried changing home the button sits etc too. Am i doing something obviously dumb here or is this an electrical issue I should get looked at? Cheers.

Hi all I am going to change the thermostat ( not getting up to temp) But I’ve discovered by looking at the thermostat a pipe must push in with a O ring on it Doing a bit of research it appears to be 06B121687 Does anyone know if this is correct I tried to call dealers yesterday but the parts department weren’t open Car is 2 litre Tdi 170 manual Cheers all

Can't help with the bolt-on and ECU side as I haven't done that exact swap, but one thing worth sorting while you're buying the donor is the paperwork, as the long block will carry a different engine number to the one on your V5C. GOV.UK says you must update the V5C when you change the engine, and for a change of engine number DVLA want one of these with it or they reject the update: 1. A receipt for the replacement engine that shows the engine number and cylinder capacity. 2. Written evidence from the manufacturer. 3. An inspection report done for insurance purposes. So when you buy the DTTA, get the seller to put the engine number and the cc on the receipt. If the cc is the same as your DSUD it's just the engine number that changes on the log book. Worth telling your insurer about the engine change at the same time, even if you keep it at 85 kW.

Set of 4 Octavia mk3 SE L. 17" Alloy wheels with three 225/45/17 Michelin Primacy 4 tyres and one Hankook ( replacement ) tyre. Both wheels and tyres covering under 15000 miles use. No skuffs or damage to alloys. Reason for sale, new style alloys fitted. £480.00. Please call or text for additional info. 07733133001 . Regards Jeff.

Currently on a 9yr old Audi A4, I am looking to move to an SUV style car - without the annoying eTSI VAG engines. I was impressed by a test drive in a 23 reg Karoq SE L 1.5 TSI 150 PS DSG yesterday. I currently have a rather expensive Thule 2-bike towball mounted bike carrier - so would obviously want to fit a towbar to any Karoq I may purchase. None of the Karoqs which I have on my shortlist appears to have towbar preparation. Having done some online research, I cannot believe an issue that I (think) I have found... It appears that Skoda UK will not approve fitting of a towbar (I like the Westfalia Detachable type) to the Karoq without also changing the radiator grille and fan. Is this actually the case - anyone actually done this, any advice or comments? My main concern is invalidating any Approved Used warranty that I get... It would appear that Skoda are concerned that any towing by a Karoq can cause overheating - unless modifications are made to the vehicle. Of course, I won't be towing anything... Who would market a utility vehicle that can't tow without expensive modifications! Are my thoughts unreasonable..? 🤔

All check your PMs

Ended up removing hub bolt etc. Theres not enough space to get strut out on offside as it doesnt drop far enough. Job wasn't too bad. Just hate doing springs especially front. Alasdair

Used them for years. Some parts are exellent and others not so good but handy to have. Lucky my sons fabia mk1 and my old mk2 were covered. My mk2 fl 1.6tdi engine for some reason isnt although think its covered in an other. I dont like online ones. I prefer to be able to take the book to the car. Alasdair

Hi guys Sorry for a late message. BUT im ****ed off with my MIB2 and i want to upgrade it to MIB2.5 . What should i know about it, about coding and stuff. I already have these brains in glovebox, but is it just plug and play? Oh yes i have Superb Estate 2015 (please don't judge) 1.6 TDI diesel

Interesting. I’ve been using a Haynes manual for a Golf Mk7 for some things, although not everything is the same as an Octavia. When trying to sort out a problem with the electric windows on my sister’s Renault Captur, I also found that Haynes didn’t do a printed manual for that, either. However, they did do one for the Clio, which uses the same switches, motors, etc. The only problem was, all the wiring colours were different! It still helped, though 😀

Is this the update file: MST2_EU_SK_ZR_P0480T? If it is, could you please provide me with the link?

_SK_ZR_P0241T https://mib-helper.com/index.php?train=MST2_EU_SK_ZR_P0241T https://mib-helper.com/index.php?train=MST2_EU_SK_ZR_P0241T The link is not active. I am looking for a link for MST2_EU_SK_ZR_P0480T

Hi everyone, Has anyone fitted a DTTA 110 kW long block in place of a DSUD 85 kW in an Octavia Mk4? My car is a 2021 Octavia Mk4 2.0 TDI DSUD with the UEV six-speed manual gearbox. The donor is a 2023 Octavia Mk4 2.0 TDI DTTA with a VCJ six-speed manual gearbox, built in November 2022. I’d keep the DTTA long block complete, including its internals, sump and timing setup. I’d transfer the DSUD external parts, including the turbo, fuel system, intake, EGR, sensors and wiring loom. I’d also keep my original DSUD ECU and software, flywheel, clutch and UEV gearbox. The aim is to keep the car running as an 85 kW DSUD. I compared both VINs in Partslink24. The block (05L 103 011 L), camshaft module (05L 103 044 AH) and dual-mass flywheel (05L 105 266 F) match. The catalogue also lists the same crankshaft and oil pump for both engine codes. The upper sump and timing belt have different part numbers, and I plan to leave both as fitted to the DTTA. Has anyone done this swap or worked on both engines? I’d especially like to know whether the DSUD external parts bolt straight on and whether the original DSUD ECU runs the DTTA long block on the stock map. If you ran into any differences with the crank or cam trigger signals, engine mounts, or turbo and EGR connections, I’d appreciate the details. Thanks!

I always take a trial-and-error approach 😅