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Inside of the charger flap has a big rubber seal mounted on it so no stickers or ice scraper there. On the EV's the tyre pressure sticker is usually on drivers side B pillar.

Hi, Thanks for getting back in touch so soon. I am thinking that the dash of any Skoda Superb concerning air vents is the same on any model. The elegance or L and K won’t make a difference to this part of the car in terms of trim. Yours is a mark II, the same as mine. I am going to risk it. The connector is showing on the Aliexpress image, so if it arrives and it doesn’t have one then I should be able to send it back. Thanks again. Jim.

Hi guys, Recently my music streamed over CarPlay started crackling, I figured and read in different topics I probably need this software: MEN2_EU_SKGPx_P0080L_MU8755 As I now have MU8740 and that could cause the issue. I am struggling to find a trusted source to download it from, anybody here that can send it to me?

Hi there eventually found old post Serrated face is 70nm plus 90deg Smooth face is 200nm plus 180deg Checked and they are still tight so will remove tomorrow when new bolts come and retorque/angle tighten. Reckon will need a fairly long bar extension to get 180deg. Still using car but only short journey per day and will keep an eye on it. Hope havent wrecked bearing but need to do front drive shafts at some point soon anyway. No noise from bearings as yet. Alasdair

After some more digging through the online manual, I found that the setting is briefly shown in the braking assists video at about 1:00. That video describes the braking as "abrupt", which I think is a little mild for what it actually does.

Hi @oxonpunter I don't have a tow bar, so I'm not sure if there are additional steps needed in your case. The setting for temporarily turning off the manoeuvre braking is available in the parking menu on my car. My mental checklist before reversing into my garage is: Turn off Auto Hold. I prefer the 'auto creep' for very slow speed reversing. And I really don't want to have to dab the accelerator to release auto hold and have the car lurch within the confined space of the garage if I need to make minor adjustments to my position. Select reverse gear. The camera and the parking menu appears on the infotainment screen. Open 'Settings' from the bottom of the menu on the screen, and turn off 'Manoeuvre Braking'. Re-select camera from the screen menu to hide the settings screen. Reverse into the garage, remembering to fold in the wing mirrors just before they reach the doorway. They will fit if extended, but there is less than an inch on either side so I don't risk it. 😉 Steps 2 and 3 there are the ones that you want. You can also get to the setting from the Park Assist screen if you need to turn it off when you are not reversing. I checked the online manual and I cannot see this setting documented anywhere. Remember the setting is not permanent; the auto braking will re-engage whenever you start the engine.

Hello, anyone here has a download link for MEN2_EU_SKGPX_P9160L other then mibsolutions? Thanks

Have you tried putting the keys in a tin box (aka Faraday cage) when you leave them in the car. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/316713444312?chn=ps&_ul=GB&mkevt=1&mkcid=28&google_free_listing_action=view_item

Having had the sunroof drain thoroughly cleaned / checked a few months back and with rain in between, I`d had no water in the drivers footwell for months..Yesterday after the deluge overnight, got in car to find a massive puddle on the rubber mat. I`m going to investigate behind the scuttle panel under the wiper arms, but wondered what I would actually be looking for and where once the panel is out? I`ve also seen it suggested about issues behind the wheel arch trim and again, wondered what I would be looking for once the trim is out?

I've suddenly got this fault code (Parking speaker short or open circuit) unrelated to other work and was o.k at the last scan. Since then the spare tyre and tools have been in and out the boot. I've read conflicting info - Behind nearside B pillar, underneath rear headlining. Both need work to inspect and I'd appreciate a location heads up if anybody has replaced theirs, seen where it is, or know if wiring/connectors run in the tyre well? I should also know where the park assist module is to check its connector. Thanks

Thanks, I'm waiting for the switch kit.

Yeh, thanks. Having welded 'the rest' of this truck I'm fine about the actual welding; it's more that I don't know how the panels on this specific unit are layered up and so exactly where to cut eludes me.

Hi Jim, I wish I could help here. It was the right fit for my car which is a MK2 2.0tdi L&K. Other than that I don't know what fitments are needed for any other models. You will need a pulling tool though for taking vent out.

My main problem with them is when reversing with a trailer attached. Because I have a dealer fit tow bar which isn’t coded, the brakes “don’t know the caravan is there,” and so keep applying. I have rooted around in the menus to turn them off for this manoeuvre but can’t find a way of doing it. How did you do it!?!

The manual says you can take the vents out with a small release tool. Remove switch first. Tool can be bought cheap from china via amazon: https://amzn.eu/d/0iLL7yWo

It's a grand morning - calm before the storm!

No

I assume it’s not on one of the b pillars when you open the front doors?

Correct. It was 6 months as a standard fit on the L&K (ours has it as it was built it Jan / Feb 2016) then it was an £850 option. It was last shown as available in the July 2016 brochure.

I often have a need to lock the car but leave the keys inside and use the manual unlock to get back in. This might be when I go diving or swimming and have nowhere safe to store the key but also don’t want to take it in the water with me. I’ve tried doing this by turning off KESSY, which mostly works except when I do unlock alarm goes off.

When I fitted a used sill to my Transporter van I offered it up over the top of the old sill and spent a long time making sure it fitted as well as I could make it. I temporally clamped it place and drew round it before cutting. I butt welded the new sill in place. I was glad that I had been forced to use the used VW panel (no repair panel was available then) because it was 3mm thick whereas some repair panels are only 1.5mm or so. The different thicknesses make the welding harder and thin metal is always more difficult for us diy welders because it is so easy to blow it into holes. When I got the old sill off I was pleased to see the inner sill in great condition so I didn't have to repair that also. If you haven't done a lot of welding my top tips are: Use a welder which has shielding gas and don't weld if it's breezy. Prep is vital. Make sure everything is lined up perfectly cleaned up to bare metal (poly wheels on a grinder are good for this) and well clamped in place. Tack it first and then weld a few inches at a time to avoid distortion. Tap home and/or re-clamp before each new weld. Use both hands on the torch whenever possible for steadiness. Don't weld anywhere near the fuel tank. Be prepared to drain and take it out. Have water, wet cloths and a good fire extinguisher close by. Use a self darkening mask. If possible have mate/spotter because it is certain that at some point (probably many) you will set fire to nearby underseal which can be put out with a wet cloth. Have your spotter also watching the inside of the car and be prepared to take seats out and peel back carpets if necessary. Sparks will inevitably burn holes in your clothes, sometimes not stopping there! Good luck. The Mig Welding forum is full of great tutorials about all types of welding plus choosing welding equipment.

I attached a picture of my cluster, sorry for not doing it sooner!

Free the bottom edge of the sill, tec screw the new one over the top and cut through both layers? Scab the top edge back together with weld and then tack the bottom back in? I don't have a spot welder or access to one :/

If we were to get one, it would be the 55 Edition.

According to wikipedia, the 55 is the top end model with 155kW (211PS) and a 51.7kWh battery. I suspect it also has multi-link rear suspension, as it has over 150PS. Lower models with a lot less power (85kW/116PS and 99kW/135PS), a 37kWh battery, and twist-beam rear suspension might not be so impressive.