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But there are 3 pins on the LED lights and only 2 on the halogen. Unless i connect the LED just as straight forward on/off fogs. Is that possible?

You hv a NAV button so you have an Amundsen MIB1 map updates stopped 5 years after the MIB1 ws last used in production, which was early 2015 - so the 2020/2021 update is the most recent available for MIB1.

No problem. I'm pretty confident you'll see a red light. If you haven't already thrown away the original oil pressure switch you took out, keep it as a spare in case the (presumably aftermarket) replacement fails prematurely.

its a big job but can be done on the drive at home i did mine over an easter weekend. front in the air on axel stands the hardest bit was getting the gearbox back in i had a helper for this part of the job. i have done many clutches in the past the clutch i used was an ebay solid flywheel kit one.

VIN now provided and the ETKA page entitled "Radiator louvre" is greyed out for this car, indicating non-fitment of those items.

ok, will do, thank you, will try early this week.

You'd think, but trust me and try what I suggest.

Ok, I'll try (not tonight, now it's dark) but I thought at idle it would need to alert if the oil pressure somehow fell to nothing. The engine would be damaged at idle. Also, I thought it should show at a cold startup, just to show the light is working, like the other lights do.

Make your own adapter. Buy the connector, pins, wires, and automotive-grade electrical tape, and you’re all set to go.

Thank you. Hopefully, we should be set for a few years!

Thanks! great info!

Shouldn't it have SK in the name not VW?

No, it's needs to be driven, or at least revved in neutral at more than 1500rpm. Not sure if bonnet shut and actual vehicle motion required, let us know, please. Below 1500rpm the switch state isn't monitored.

No, I shall do if that's what it takes, but I'd assumed that with the connector unplugged the light would be red?

Hi all. Im getting all the parts together to fit an vRS bumper on my regular Octavia. Came across an issue with front fog lights as the wireing is not a straight plug and play. Has anyone done it before? Is there a adapter on the market or any solution? Want to keep the car as close to stock as possible in terms of fog lights, cornering lights and stuff. Any information or recommendation is much appreciated.

thanks for the reply- though I was really after the specs I do get what you are saying, when I got the Leon, I really wanted the 300, But couldnt justify the cost. The compromise was that I would get the Leon mapped. I never did, as I never really felt the need. So, again, I have to decide on the compromise lol. But I am starting to like the idea of a newer, different model over a more powerful "existing" model

Website cleared my draft (?). Not retyping. Removed rear right pillar cover (Easy) Got 50 Ohm buzzer out complete with its connector and a short wire tail (Cut wires at clip) by gently pulling down back of headlining. Intentionally destroyed its plastic mountings because they fitted it forward facing on the rear roof beam! New OE replacement part going back behind rear right pillar cover with original connector and wire tail soldered and sleeved to wire pair behind pillar cover. Beware of Chinese buzzer clones, They may be 8 Ohms, too quiet and could damage controller buzzer driver.

Maybe there will be better efficiency if it does not get too cold soon and having a while of the Winter Formulation petrol. Maybe more so with the E5 depending what actual octane it comes with better than the min 97 or 99 ron minimum.

Pity... Although I had no difficulty finding drawings/pictures of this part, I couldn't find any photos of it installed in a Fabia Mk4. So I had no real 'feel' for how large the unit was and, if present, what I should expect to see it when looking through my Fabia's front-bumper air intake. Thinking laterally, I found a couple of videos relating to non-Skoda models and this link was helpful. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zvGYKACL1Kk This image shows the shutter-unit in place on a VW Jetta and it's plain that this is a substantial piece of kit that goes behind the front bumper and in front of the lower part of the radiator. If my Fabia Mk4 had the shutter-unit, this would be obvious when looking through my car's bumper's air intake, but (as I said earlier) there's absolutely nothing there to obstruct/control airflow to the lower part of my car's radiator that is fully visible. I'm quite glad that the shutter-unit is 'missing' from my car. Like the aero wheel trims, the aerodynamic gains will be quite small and (for me) the shutter feature is one more thing to go wrong and, if it does, a labour-intensive task to fix.

I'm concerned we might be joining the others in this thread with the same issue. No warning lights yet, but our 2021 Octavia hybrid has the tamper-seal intact but the battery coolant is sitting below the minimum ☹️ Is the only option to take it to a main dealer, or is there such thing as a VAG-hybrid specialist?

No, just in normal “off” position after a serious workout the day before.

It's now done 31K miles, and the plugs and coils were replaced in April this year during a full service at ~29K miles following a slight misfire, as was the air filter. The car is a 2019 2.0 TSI SE L. I don't know what happened Gaz, but the issue seems to have gone away for the time being, though it still seems a little thirstier than previously, but nothing that I couldn't put down to a change of driving style. Last tank mpg was about 44 overall, which is fairly typical. The 50 MPG figures are only when I'm on a long run or am deliberately driving for economy. I've just checked it (without having reset my BST clock yet. 🙄) and a motorway run I did today was just over 50mpg, which is normal for it. So I have no idea what it was up to for that brief drop in MPG, but obviously I'll keep an eye on it. Thanks for the feedback, gents. 👍

Were the wipers in the parked position? tom

Hi all, I have developed and tested a standalone CAN-BUS monitoring and logging prototype called CarKit1, primarily built and tested on the Superb II (PQ platform) (also compatible with MQB). Before I finalize the custom PCB design for a small production batch, I want to gauge interest here to see if anyone would want a unit like this for their car. Key Features (up to the "PRO" version): Direct CAN-BUS connection: Real-time data without OBD2 delays (4-wire hookup). Web Dashboard: Live vehicle telemetry displayed directly in your mobile browser via Wi-Fi. Extensive Telemetry: Reads a wide range of vehicle parameters (temperatures, central stat doors, locks, etc.). Automatic Trip Logbook: Automatically logs drives and trip statistics. Active Alarm (PRO version with LTE modem): Sends instant alerts via SMS or phone call if triggered. Wi-Fi & MQTT: Local Wi-Fi access as standard, with an optional paid MQTT server connection for remote access in the top version. Price estimate: Around €120 / £100 (2,990 CZK) for the top "PRO" version (a basic Lite Wi-Fi-only version would be cheaper). Let me know in the replies if you would be interested in a unit like this! Shrnutí CarKit1.pdf

I went hunting for dash rattles today. To remove centre speaker grill. Prize edge towards rear of the car up with trim tools in a few places along the edge. Then rotate this back edge upwards. To refit, pop up the rear edge of the vent cover a bit first so the grill can go back down vertically. Then vent cover going back down secures it in place. Pretty certain most of my rattle comes from where these two pieces fit together. I fitted some 1.5mm thick draught excluder to all flat surfaces and the back edge of the grill. Seems to have quietened down some of the rattle. With the vents you don’t need a special tool. The bottom edge pops out easy enough with a trim tool. Top edge took some more persuasion using a thin metal shim but once it was out I realised there was 4 sprung plastic grips. I think you could be strategic with a thin metal shim in these places to release it. Nothing in this area looked to be loose but I put some draught excluder on a couple of flat contact points anyway. Lastly popped the screen off with release tools and added some draught excluder next to where the clips hold it in and the top edge where it contacts the trim. Quick drive and it hasn’t eliminated all the 2k rpm rattle but certainly quietened it a bit.