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When I first started this thread, I had my suspicions that it was a money-making scheme and far less about clean air. I kept pointing out that our air was already pretty clean and we were all on average living far longer than people before us, and this trend has been going upwards since 1950, never once dipping down, despite what we were all told. Now I urge you all to actually watch this video, and please don't dare to comment without actually watching the video. I know that many of you claim that these videos are nothing other than clickbait, but you would be totally wrong on that point. I also said that these LEZ cameras were being installed, using clean air as a cover for their real purpose, and many of you at the time disagreed with me and claimed that the air quality was actually shortening people's lives, despite figures proving the exact opposite was happening. So this guy actually goes through all the contracts issued by governments, councils, etc., and follows where and who the money goes to and who has to end up actually paying and just who ends up making fortunes from these deals, and why there is never any real consultation and why even when there is massive backlash, with a bigger number of objections than votes were cast for the government in the election, these schemes still go ahead. Genuine comments welcomed to this, please, but only after you watch the video.

Quick Update. Job done. Drivers side bolt was a nightmare. Wedged a tube into bolt hole open end hole raised and filled with 50/50 Acetone/hydraulic32 oil and let seep overnight. Still a nightmare to get out. Tighten/loosen/tighten etc Passenger side easier but used same method and still pretty tight. Ran a tap carefully through threads to clean out corroded alloy. Bushes were also a nightmare. So much alloy corrosion in console bracket the metal insert that pushes them out on the puller set seized in console so had to destroy old bushes to get them out. Cleaned everything up and its now back together. Old bushes were pretty soft with the drivers side the centre came out with wishbone. New swing arms/new bolts and ball joints/track rod end while I was at it. Absolutely no play now in front wheels now. Dont want to do that job again in a hurry. Only thing to do now is MOT and wheel alignment. Alasdair

do a service manual on 30000 and 60000 kms, and in between do just oil change by yourself. use a vacum pump and suck from dipstick hose. dont touch sump plug. service wont investigate which oil is in engine.

unbelivable. so AGM are not cheaper with no reason..

OBD11 can deactivate it as in stop it automatically turning back on . ( one ovens few feature which are offered on SFD2 cars ) I have not tried it as it’s a useful feature when the maps are working and also not sure how VAg would react to the setting change or if the online updates would just reset it

I don't think you can permanently switch off the speed limit warning (the chimes when you exceed whatever Skoda thinks the limit is). I actually like this feature in case I accidentally miss a speed limit change on an unfamiliar road, but you do need to learn not to slavishly react to it. But you can turn off the speed limit following, where the car automatically changes speed to follow what it thinks the limit is. My opinion - and I think the consensus from this thread - is that it just doesn't work reliably enough to leave it engaged and could be potentially dangerous.

I haven't found a way of switching off the speed limit warning permanently, I have to switch it off every time I restart the car. Ditto for Lane Assist.

If the car has build code 1KE, then search for any of the five below OEM part numbers. Build code 1KE is an ATE brake system. Brake pads for 272x10mm rear brake discs (build code 1KE) 5WA698451 5WA698451E 5WA698451G 8Y0698451 8Y0698451C https://www.autodoc.co.uk/car-parts/oem/5wa698451?supplier%5B%5D=833&supplier%5B%5D=62&supplier%5B%5D=48&supplier%5B%5D=3

I've had a few AGM batteries on my MX5 and they've not lasted well at all, failing quite quickly due to cold weather and, or low charge. I've therefore moved back to EFB and they've been far more reliable - I won't be buying AGM again unless I absolutely have to as they are too fagile IMHO.

Tbh I'm starting to leaning towards getting the Bosch AGM, hopefully should only cost about €200 then hopefully I should be able to code it myself with OBDEleven.

@Kojne I've got a 2021 Octavia, and similar to others on the forum had endless software issues. They're all sorted now, but it was a pain getting them resolved. The local dealer was good, but they had issues with Skoda technical. As others have mentioned the infotainment being up to date is important. But it would also be worth asking if components such as the OCU are up to date. You cannot check the version of that from within the car. I believe the current OCU version is 0311. My car had several updates to components such as this to resolve all the issues. Components like the OCU you cannot update yourself, so much better to get a dealer to do it for you. It's also worth noting that some of the earlier cars are unable to download 'big' updates over the air. My car has never been able to receive infotainment and OCU updates OTA where others have. I would definitely check on the OCU version.

IMHO definitely yes.

By doing a scan with OBDeleven or VCDS.

On autodoc, 1T0413031FK isn't listed against the Bilstein 22-183729 front shock absorber but 1T0413031HL is listed against Bilstein 22-183729. Sachs and KYB list 1T0413031FK and 1T0413031HL against the same aftermarket shock absorber, so these two shock absorbers do appear to be interchangeable. Bilstein lists the 22-183729 front shock absorber against both standard ride height and increased ride height OEM part numbers. It may be just an oversight on Bilstein's part that they haven't listed 1T0413031FK against their 22-183729. OEM part number for front shock absorbers (Octavia MK2 estate 4x4 with increased ride height) (55mm strut diameter) 1T0413031FK (up to the 2008 model year) 1T0413031HL (from the 2009 model year)

Hi all - I've had this issue a while, and with the wintry weather upon us I figured it best to get fixed (I figured being able to see while driving through torrential rain is kind of a big deal...) Wipers work fine on intermittent mode, and at regular speed, but when pushed to the top maximum speed, they just drag really slowly like the power isn't there to make them work. Has anyone had a similar issue and found a fix? Google suggests a new wiper motor is needed, which makes sense to me on an 11-year-old car (one of the annoying things that starts to drop off a bit). TIA

Hi what rear pad do I need for me skoda octavia mk4.5 facelift 2024 1.5 tsi. Thanks

^^^ Exactly. Even with Skoda dealerships, some used to give you a FREE Change of oil. or a voucher to come in after 1,000 miles and have an Oil & Filter change and an inspection. I have not seen any doing that since about 2012 when SERVICE BOOKS stopped being put in the car at Hand Over. People might well want to change oil in cars earlier than annually, but as the first oil change. That is good oil filled at the factory. It has a job to do and IMO best leave it doing that job. Check the oil regularly though. From getting the new car home. Know where the oil is at Stone cold and compare to where when checked as per the Manufacturers guidelines/ @ Normal Operating temperature after a few minutes parked on the flat.

Hello, I'm on MST2_EU_SK_ZR_P0245T with GEM3.5 and want to activate carplay via toolbox, but i can't figure out, if i need to/should upgrade the firmware first. If that is the case, i would like the 480 version.

I used https://youtu.be/4I5Lnwc1w5c?is=dtFPT81Ak71vbc4n

Thank you for your help and comments.

Never had a new car but friends have. A few dealers like mitsubishi etc change oil and filter at around 1000-2500 miles on brand new cars then revert to standard service intervals. Not sure about Skoda. Something to do with a run in period to remove any debris etc from new engine . Alasdair

I am tempted to use VW 504 when my brand new Karoq (sept 2026 manufactured) reaches 5000km, as I have 16L left in the dunk from my last Fabia change (I buy dunks of 20L VW 504 for changing to Fabia every 8000km). My worry is that there is void guarantee risk since if something happens to the car they may be for sure a process to check that does not have VW 508 oil in? The oil filter will replace exactly the original one.

For the non-maxidot version, I'm pretty sure it's: 03 - byte 16, bit 2 17 - byte 2, bit 0 There will be no 4C module and the reset can either be done with VCDS or a physical switch.

I may be wrong but read that if an auto ecu is used it looks for live data from auto box. As yours is a manual it sounds like its dropping into limp mode when it doesnt recieve it. I found this on AI which I generally dont trust but it makes a bit of sense. Well above my expertise level though. The security login to ecu may help?? On the Skoda Fabia Mk1 1.4 (Magneti Marelli 4LV / 4MV ECU), you cannot simply recode an automatic engine ECU to manual via standard software coding (like VCDS / VAG-COM). The ECU software is flash-locked by the factory specifically to the transmission type it was built for, causing it to reject manual transmission coding strings natively. [1, 2, 3] To fix this and stop the ECU from looking for the missing Transmission Control Module (TCM), choose one of the following paths: 1. Flash the ECU Firmware (EEPROM/Flash Edit) The factory automatic dataset does not contain the manual maps/blocks. To override this, a chiptuning or ECU cloning specialist must read the ECU on a bench using a bootloader or OBD tool (such as FoxFlash or KESS) and write a full flash and EEPROM backup file from a factory manual car with the exact same engine code (e.g., AUA, BBY, BBZ). [1, 2, 3] Note: Reflashing the ECU will alter the internal immobilizer data, meaning you will also need an Immobilizer Off (Immo Off) patch or to manually adapt the keys/cluster. [1, 2] 2. Swap to a Factory Manual ECU The simplest physical workaround is to source a used Magneti Marelli ECU pulled directly from a donor manual car. Ensure the VAG part number matches your engine variant. You will need to extract the PIN code from the replacement ECU to align it to your instrument cluster and keys, or have it delivered with the immobilizer disabled. [1, 2, 3] 3. Check the CAN Gateway & Interlocking Modules If you have already altered the ECU code at a hardware level but your coding is still rejected, other modules are likely blocking the change. VAG ECUs look at the CAN Gateway during coding verification. [1] Recode Module 19 (CAN Gateway): Open the CAN Gateway profile, look at the installation list, and uncheck/remove the Automatic Transmission (Module 02). Clear Fault Codes First: The ECU will refuse a coding adaptation if active "No Communication with TCM" codes are locked into other systems. Erase fault codes completely in ABS (03) and Instruments (17) before attempting to change the engine coding. [1, 2] Login Code Requirement: Some Marelli 4LV units require a security login string (such as 01283 or 11463) under Login - 11 before they unlock the Coding - 07 permission window. [1, 2] Alasdair

I've taken to just replacing the rubbers in the wipers because I cannot find the right ones. I've tried Bosch and other brands but none of the fittings work on the Enyak. It is supposed to be one of the UK's best selling EVs, so you would have hoped that someone will have made wipers that fit!