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Oh, really ? That's nice to hear, for once we don't have to overcomplicate things. I was actually looking trough the wiring diagram just now, since my Fabia is a Classic trim level It only has central locking, and therefore there are no components in the door that require the CAN connections (on higher trim level fabias its the orange/green and orange/brown cables in the blue connector at the A pillar if I'm not mistaken), so It obviously isn't there. Now, what I've seen on the wiring diagram is that for example the AC Control Unit (301) is tapped into the CAN lines (A146,A147), and since my car does have AC It therefore must also have the CAN Connections wired into It to a certain extent. The question is whether I'll be able to disconnect the part of the CAN lines going to the doors and plug It into my my car, making it a plug and play, or do I need to cut and reattach ? Also since we got the Remote Locking question out of the picture, does anyone know whether a Skoda Dealer could make a remote key for my lock barrel and with my transponder chip copied on It ? And the last thing I had on my mind is, will a CCM with a suffix E work with my Classic trim level if I switch It out ? Thanks you in advance for the replies! Cheers!

I did read the 2013 had better engines and revised tensioners

I have the same one and reccommend it!

SwaP Patch Unit, Dataset with Odis VC Tool VCP etc. Dataset is easy With a Tool

Final connections made on the aftermarket blind spot detection kit this evening. All working well as intended. Next step is to experiment with OEM LEDs to see if I can make them work.

Final connections made on the aftermarket blind spot detection kit this evening. All working well as intended. Next step is to experiment with OEM LEDs to see if I can make them work.

It is a shame that I cannot reply to that RossTech thread. I would love to know how he managed the SWaP & Dataset changes.

For what its worth, mine is 13 years old with nearly 100,000 miles on it and I can't see me getting rid of it any time soon. I've had my share of cars over the years starting with elderly Ford Anglias and going through Renault 16s (five of those) and even a couple of Volvos (best not remembered) but there is something about the blend of quirkiness, practicality and reliability of the Yeti I think would be hard to replace. And certainly the cloned slabs that seem to be the affordable choices in electric cars, I'll pass thanks.

Yes the only issue that bogged down a couple of Seat poster was that Edge hung after the download you altered the extension to 7z after with Edge then proceed. Windows 10 and 11 have the built in unzip so it will bounce out into the unzip directory if using the Edge rename. Firefox and Chrome you just use 7zip and right click on that drag and drop to a directory you have made. Or open with the built in unzip of Windows 10 and 11. Think its open with file manager from memory. The right click on the downloaded file.

We love Yetis - we've had 7 or 8 between us since 2011. But, we were talking about whether it's getting to the right time after the winter to sell while the car is still popular. I'm torn - it's diesel, 4x4 and DSG and the last of the line. I took a 5 hour train trip to buy it. I guess as there is nothing obvious we would want to replace it with -maybe a medium size EV - we will keep it !? Any thoughts ?

Seems to be another expensive month thabks to the Superb! Last week it dumped it's coolant thabks to a snapped brittle pipe leading to the heater matrix, Yesterday 4 tyres and no the interior lights don't work. A quick scan with my mates TopDon brought up the following code 00059:011 Terminal 30 for interior illumination open circuit. Checked the fuses in the end of the dash but this is where my expertise ends. Don't think it's the switch as the rear ceilings don't work either, puddle lights do though. Any help would be appreciated as other posts seem to point to a burnt out switch and lights that are intermittent?

Hi everyone,I noticed that one LED in the third (high level) brake light on my Skoda Octavia IV Combi VRS IV (2022 model) is very dim. Because of this, I am planning to replace the entire unit in the near future. From what I understand, on the MK4 model, the brake light is clipped in from the outside of the spoiler Also there is some visible moisture in the unit is this an known problem ? Before I start prying and potentially damaging the paint or breaking the spoiler anyone happens to have the official workshop manual page or a short video clip for this specific model ? that would be greatly appreciated! Thanks in advance for your help!

Don't TPS or the online seller LLL supply them?

Antenna is within the central convenience module (J393). The conversion to remote C/L only needs swap of suffix H unit to suffix E, I think, no wiring changes. There's a good how-to thread on clubpolo that I must've linked to on here. Did you have a look for CAN wires at A-pillar yet?

Hard to tell but I had a negative sniff test at first then I got a positive once I’d replaced the egr cooler and the charge cooler, ended up being the head gasket. Diag can be really tricky as there can be a few issues that combine to hide the true state of the engine. I thought I had it but then I ended up with another issue that was linked but made worse so needs some careful diag. I have a who thread on the diag and fix of mine if this helps at all?

Thank you for all the replies! I've seen a post here saying that the "brains" of the remote locking is in the Convenience Control Unit (CCM), and I also get the same result when searching on google. I corresponded all the wires from pictures of the CCM (6q0959 433 E -E is the highest trim level) and the wiring diagram of the Central Locking, and Anti-Theft System. All the wires are "occupied/taken" so all the wires from the picture I identified as part of mentioned systems. Now the questing is, where are the cables for the Remote Locking ? There is supposed to be an Antenna at least, and probably more. I also heard that It might be in the driver door, but at this point I really don't know. If anyone has the diagram for the Remote Locking It would be greatly appreciated! Cheers!

Well, for those who wondered what the other 2 150bhp cars are. One is and the other is Photo's just for reference, neither are mine, I just can't find any photos.

Those are MHI2 maps. They’re the same for every MHI2 system, no matter the brand. The file name of the archive or the ending .zip or .7z has nothing to do with the contents or the actual structure of the maps. They will work on your car regardless. They work on VW, Seat, Skoda, Audi, Bentley, Porsche and whichever other brand uses MHI2 systems.

Have found the same. Brake disc sizes are entirely random despite the make, model and trim confirmed. @Breezy_Pete knows his onions so take that as gospel. And tbh I’d just google it and see what comes up. Skoda parts is always an option.

I probably didn't frame my question correctly. I have a Superb Mk3 (2020) and I think that it's a MIB2 High. My last successful update was HIGH2_P450_EU_202625.zip, which is, of course, the February update P450. I followed the link in Vipers post and the 7z files don't seem to be in the same structure as the HIGH2 zip file. I just wondered if Skoda had also released the P470 update in that format.... I'm extracting the download anyway to see if my car recognises them... Thanks John

Over the last few weeks reboots. It’s the same kind of reboot as a forced one by holding the power button. It won’t do it for weeks and then it reappears. It’s on the latest software. If it reboots i have noticed that it does it about 20-30 seconds after starting the car. It never does it during a drive.

Isn't it this post by Viper above ?... in old language it would be the November 2026 release but brought forwards due to streamlined processing. The November release was always coded to the following year hence this has 2027 on it. Then the June release Id expect to say 2027-2028 and hopefully that will turn up in February 2027. Everything is brought forward by 4 months now thanks to connected cars and the streamlining that was put in.

There is a lot more to this! The fuse arrangement for the rear wiper on my 2012 Mk 2 HB Octavia does not match any of the information provided in this forum. Here's what AI told me which eventually get me to the right answer: "On face-lifted 2012 Skoda Octavia Mk2 models, your rear wiper is actually controlled by Fuse 40 (a 10 Amp red fuse), rather than position 41. The official Skoda owner manuals for 2011–2013 cars frequently feature a misprint that incorrectly points to position 41. If you look into your slot 41, you will likely notice that it completely lacks the internal metal pins needed to hold a fuse in place, causing any fuse you try to insert to simply fall straight out. [1, 2] Check the row right next to it: The Correct 2012 Fuse Configuration Fuse 40: Rear Windscreen Wiper (Red 10A Fuse). Fuse 41: Empty / Not Assigned (No metal contact pins inside). Fuse 42: Rear Windscreen Washer Pump (White/Clear 15A or Blue 15A Fuse). [1, 2, 3]" But then, when I told AI that there is no fuse or fuse carrier in position 40, I got this: "On 2012 Skoda Octavia models utilizing the alternative interior layout, your rear windscreen wiper is powered by Fuse 18 (a 15 Amp blue fuse). [1, 2] Because Skoda completely overhauled the central electrical control unit during the late Mk2 face-lift production run, the fuse boxes on 2012 vehicles can vary wildly from what is printed in the car's original handbook. [1, 2] The Alternative 2012 Layout Locate Fuse 18 in your interior dashboard fuse panel: Fuse 18: Rear window wiper (Blue 15A Fuse)." This turned out to be correct for my car. (if only the sticker attached to the removable panel covering the dashboard fusebox had the correct info, instead of telling me the rear wiper fuse was in position 41. Nice one Skoda!) Note that on some variants, including mine, the washer pump is powered through the Body Control Module (BCM) and it doesn't have an individual fuse

Can I post this picture, it's a still from the block test. Could anybody tell me if they think the lower chamber looks green or blue.

Thanks, I found my engine code on the V5C. It is CRM but what does that mean?