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I did back in July, put a couple of pics up on thread: What have you done to your Superb today page 54. And as I said then I’d never attempt it again. I followed the Golf R videos on YouTube and it was the same. Thankfully my Forge intercooler didn’t need any trimming but a full 8 hours later it was finally finished and one job I’d not attempt on my own ever again.

The pile of parts is getting less and less, engine is getting bigger and bigger.

Sorry, I have to disagree. I have towed in France each summer since 1999, doing up to 3,000 miles some years. I've found open roads, less congestion and more tolerant drivers. I'm guessing the later is because they see the GB plate and a caravan and give me a bit of space. The first time I ventured over with the Yeti was a near 600 mile trip in one go. Every couple of hours I could pull over at an aire, stretch my legs, go the loo and have a drink. You cannot do that in the UK. What an absolute joy. Colin

After a heavy downpour and some nice beading with the Autoglym wax polish applied by the dealer.

Gunson Eezibleed. Cheap and effective, I've been using one for years.

Saw this decent walk around video earlier, looks fantastic in Grey Estate form too.

I'll take a photo in the morning alongside a a metal ruler and see if I can post it on here

Not very pretty solderings but you get the idea: http://kharon.suomiforum.com/www/ocu/PA252599.JPG http://kharon.suomiforum.com/www/ocu/PA252600.JPG Unfortunately no significant improvement in range (still few meters), but reliability improved a bit, I don't have to press buttons several times to open/close the doors.

They fixed it and appears to be working fine now. Maybe it's me but it seems like they flashed the ECU or something because I noticed that the instant consumption meter, wich is the option I usually have selected in the dash computer, is now being updated very quickly. I also did notice that the mileage improved very sightly. They had to disassemble the head and the turbo intake to get to the injectors; they replaced all gaskets there and those of the injectors. Plus all the mounting bolts of the common rail. Like the rest of you, the problem was that one of those screws fatigued and broke at the head. They didn't tell me which one of the bolts it was, but I have no reason to think it failed differently than what we already now (the one near the first injector). They charged me GBP 60, which I consider reasonable for a repair of this kind. Volkswagen of Mexico (they distribute SEAT over here) and the dealer paid for the rest. I service it in the same place I bought it and intend to remain doing so; perhaps they wised up and are trying to keep me happy. Thank you all, you've been very helpful. This is certainly a widespread issue so I'm still calling the consumer authorities to report it. I'm satisfied with the solution given, but I don't want to hear from someone else to go through this. Fuel leaks are very dangerous and should be approached proactively.

A straightened out coathanger with a small eye formed on the end is my tool of choice. I have had the same one curved into a loop carried in my toolbox since I was installing burglar alarms in 1992, the same one in a Triggers Broom type of way! At the other end of the spectrum I have a 4m telescopic carbon fibre fishing pole with a coathanger eye on both ends for use above ceiling voids & suspended ceilings, same vintage, doesn't get used much but the coathanger is regularly used.

I got some genuine 17” alloys from Skoda for about £750. I think new zenith 18” cost around £800 edit skoda accessories 18” £216 each 17” £205 Local dealer did 10% off the above price

Yeah, that looks like the one. With alternator plug unlugged (as well as that plug), measure resistance to chassis ground from that blue wire.

Yes. I’ve several other cars (not a bum). But, I’d sell the one you have and just buy your golf R as an estate or a Superb estate etc. My reason being, that in my case, I just can’t be bothered swooping over, and end up just driving one of them all the time and leaving the others. Then you end up fixing the others as they just sit not being used and so on. It seems like a good idea at the time, but depends also on you and whether you’d end up doing the same or not. My wife also has an ST estate which is the only thing she’d have after her last Ford gave her no bother for 8 yrs, right up to we traded it in. I did try to put her into a Leon cupra 300 estate which I really liked, and may be a good alternative for you if looking at an R estate.

I have an RNS315DAB in my Scout which fits perfectly

Does the car have DRLs? The wire goes direct from that 2-way connector pair at the gearbox to pin 9 of connector XS4 at that module above the accelerator pedal. But there's a connection also to the "Day driving lights relay" that I've not come across on mk1s. Potentially if that relay is poorly it could be pulling down that voltage, as could any partial short like rainwater affecting cracked insulation somewhere in the engine bay for example.

I'll have a look at the circuit diagrams later; but I'm almost certain that the blue wire originates from the Central Electrics module above the accelerator pedal.

My car was produced in 12/2013 so I believe that it has the latest chain, sprockets and tensioner set. It has done 75k km and so far I haven't had any problems with the chain issue. I believe that it will eventually need a new chain set, but I'm aware of the problems it can cause so I keep my eye on it (or should I say a ear...). Furthermore, I change the oil every 6-7k km to ensure that the chain and tensioner are well lubricated. Maybe I'm wrong, but it seems to me that a lot of issues related with the chain are caused by poor maintenance - what I mean when I say that is that the cars on longlife service intervals are more affected due to poor lubrication and often low oil levels which lead to friction and increased working temperatures... I'm aware that the increased power and torque figures will certainly have an impact on the life span of the chain set, but I wanted to hear from others, which already remapped their car and have been driving their car for a longer period of time/km, what negative aspects did they had to deal with? Also a known problem with these engines is the wastegate actuator? Can that issue be related to the remapping? Mine had a problem with it. It failed when the car was still under warranty (believe the car had around 20k km). After that I haven't had any problems with it...

If it were useful to do so (not in this case) you could measure while the connector is plugged in by stabbing a needle through the wire insulation and connect your meter probe to the needle. Your blue wire voltage definitely looks too low.. I'd expect about half a volt less than ignition 12V. What year is this Fabia? And what is the resting voltage across the battery terminals at the momnet?

Looking good.

Got my full winters on, had them of for about 4 weeks now as tend to fit winters last week of Sept/first week of Oct. Tyres of choice. I use proper winters rather than all seasons as up in the Highlands and it can be pretty severe, not just snow but had temps down to minus high teens. Also they are just so much better in lower temps, bad/rainy weather etc, it’s not just about snow and ice. I’ve been using Conti winters on other cars for about 10 years now and found them excellent in all conditions, to the extent that Mrs DSL was driving on sheet ice with perfect control, I was struggling to walk on it. Plus on uncleared compacted snow (A9 over Drumochter before the ploughs got their butts into gear) they were great up to 60mph. My house is up a fairly well used side road, but not adopted so not gritted, use results in any snow getting compacted down into ice and when it melts it get very slick. A no go in summer tyres unless in a proper 4x4, a breeze with winters. OK, it’s another cost but the set of Ratikons I put the winters on cost only £250 and I’ve splashed out on a full sized spare and same tyre (similar for summer set) as the type of driving I do dictates carrying a spare. Another advantage of these tyres is they are non directional so spare gets fully used. Looking forward to a bit of snow this winter to see if I can replicate this pic in Skippy. As long as I can beat the plough.

Two clips is correct. Have a closer look as it may have been pushed to one side or even fell under the carpet/mat. They can be a pain to locate properly so be sure the filter is pushed in properly and it should be possible to slide both clips in their place.

All rear end shunts were in the UK, the last one while I was French resident, always claimed successfully from 3rd party insurers, no loading of my premiums, I retained the salvage and made money from the repairs although would rather have avoided the situations. Tailgating never a problem on the autoroutes, its in hick areas like mine where people want to push the car in front to go faster rather than overtake, driving standards en campagne are deplorable, pretty much every journey you will see another wrecked car in a filed having rolled multiple times, a dead straight road with no side turnings, no other vehicles involved, loads and loads of drunken drivers. Get on the périphérique de Paris and you will see a very high standard of driving and lane discipline, very cut & thrust and no-one is hanging around. Parking in Paris & large cities is another matter entirely, people park bumper to bumper actually touching & will have caused dents & scratches each time, when the plates were pressed steel they would look like something on a dodgem car, nobody uses their handbrake when parking like that, when someone needs to extract their vehicle they just push the line of cars ahead or behind, or both until there is enough space to get out. I drove to the Monaco Grand Prix in 2004 in a split screen camper, we camped in the street and it was constantly being shunted by people parking or wanting to extract their vehicles, at the traffic lights on the steep hills we noticed that people were stopping touching the bumper of the car in front (we kept getting shunted again) and soon found out why, nobody could do a hillstart with the handbrake, they would release it and roll back into the car behind before engaging the clutch. We would leave a normal gap and the car in front would roll back gathering speed and ram us the bedbug had super solid bumpers and they would damage their vehicle and tell me it was my fault for not being close behind them or touching!

Yes I cut holes in the rubber seals not the door 😂

If you have to do a DIY messurement, you could use the alternator fuse as a shunt. Might be slightly non-linear but that could be calibrated out. For any sort of accuracy you'd probably also need to measure and calibrate for local area temperature also.

One slides forward and one slides back. I checked the condition of the pollen filter on my Roomster which is similar and could I get the front to side forward and locate no way. The filter is only secured by the back clip.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/p/1633594876

Seriously, driving with the back door open on any vehicle is never a good idea. Having done fume ingress testing on vehicles in the past, it doesn’t take long to fill an unpartitioned cabin with carbon monoxide especially on squarer vehicles. Dangerous levels of CO can be present and you won’t even know about it. Opening the front windows for more ventilation creates a vacuum and just draws more air and fumes in from the rear of the vehicle. That’s why the dash warnings for open rear doors never go away when moving. As for the lighting, you are asking for a software change, or you could just overlay manually switched lamps into the load space or even get a usb rechargeable LED head torch for a tenner. They last hours on a single charge and are really good.

French motorway lane discipline is some of the best in Europe (evidence: many European miles annually except 2020 unfortunately). You will be tailgated if you stay in an outside lane unnecessarily but no different to here. OK, parking in some cities is sometimes 'shunt and squeeze in' but no different to here. And yes, the Aires are delightful.

Sorry I didn't see this when you posted it. I didn't have to initiate court proceedings, I just wrote the letter before action telling them I was planning to take them to court and they paid.

New owner of a 2019 Black estate 1.0 DSG SE Technology. No mods so far, but it did come with a full size spare wheel and I've managed to fit the Latest euro (32MB card only) map onto the 16GB card that it came with and is working fine. From the number of mods I've seen so far on this forum, it looks like I'll be busy for a while

I am blind in the left eye (am hoping for a miracle next Tuesday though) and frequently bash my hip whilst squeezing amongst stuff in my workshops but never outside, I always try to leave a decent space on my blind side, when I cant I will be looking down with my head turned sideways. If an adult cracks his shin while walking behind a car then he is very close to it and should know better than to walk out into traffic on a busy road from behind a parked car, children are a different matter, they will be chasing each other around and scraping past everything breaking things along the way, sometimes breaking themselves, its all part of growing up. Be truthfull how many of us like myself headbutted the rear of parked cars (or a van in my case) whilst cycling & not looking where we were going? And we didn't even have smartphones to be staring at. If any adult walks into my tow coupling its likely that they will have been staring into a phone.

Sorry, wrong link and I can't find the edit feature! Correct link:

It is possible to drift the old bearing out of the hub, clean the seat up. Then heat it in the oven for a couple of hours, leave the bearing in the freezer overnight. Lightly oil the bearing and it pushes in by hand. Seat with a light tap with wood. Holding ring then has to be pushed in with a screwdriver. Downside is you have to remove the ABS sensor, which usually means a new one. I did our last one with this procedure, still going strong after 50,000 miles until I took the car off the road.

If everything in the world was as reliable as a Volkswagen the world would be in a worse state than it is now. Thank goodness for Japanese Car Manufacturers. Like with many muppets that you might give a jump start to, you tell them drive the car and let the battery charge, or go get it on a charger and they drive a bit and stop it rather than just keep on driving or going and getting it charged. Personally i would be parking it over the entrance to the dealership, gate or door and they can move it the next morning and move their backends in sorting it. How appropriate because if you get an ID.3 you might well be spending time driving a Nissan Leaf using a Taxi and being driven in one.

This is one way to fix it... Not that I'd do that of course. Little school run test drive.

I used similar to this its self adhesive so you just stick it alongside the original seal its quite soft so fills any gaps easily. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4M-Car-Door-D-Shape-Seal-Strip-Edge-Protectors-Weatherstrip-Rubber-Sealing-Trims/303661090288?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649 I haven`t cleaned inside the door for several weeks and have been on some mucky wet roads but you can see the dirt on the first seal but not much has got past the new piece of seal

So back in the day job now, so a few little things prepped after work (for those that might still be following and who are mildly interested). It's all in the details, and will make sense when it's all together.

If this guide is useful please add a like

In fairness at 12k there wont be much service history anyway. Depends if it is on fixed or variable service. Either way the oil will be fine at that milegae not to have been changed by now so no issues there. I would haggle in a service and also ask what oil they use. You still have the balance of manufacturer warranty so if there were any issues they would get fixed.

Car is an absolute riot. Darkside really know their stuff and I've have had no issues since. Even the hard start issue I couldn't solve, is now gone. They mentioned it was something to do with the actuator on the turbo setup I had before, no other details than that. But on the whole, pulls like an train, the LSD works very well, since having the forks changed in the box, the gear changes feel so much crisper and less of a stick in pudding. 35psi on the dial always bring a smile to my face, but what's more, when I'm not booting it and driving it smoothly'n'calm I can see upwards of 70+mpg. Driving from home to Heathrow for work for the week. Normally I'd end up having to refuel by the end of the week to a full tank. But if I drive this carefully, I only have to refill just under half a tank after a week. Not really pushed it to see just how much range I can get out of it now, the loud pedal is just too much fun not to (Makes for a few surprised faces) I know before I fell out of love with the whole thing some time last year, But I'm glad I stuck with it. Has also just ticked over 140k on the clock but still going strong, okay for sure some of the body needs some love, spots of rust here and there and I need to strip away the sill's original rubber protective coating as I see some of has suffered a nick, allowing water to sit behind it. All in good time. Not much else to say currently. Have a set of Rotaform wheels I need new rubber for. May use those for winter wheels as I like the TD ProRace too much. Also have a new grill, side skirts and a VRS front bumper I need painted. Any idea of having it wrapped in the future is pretty much on hold for the foreseeable future.

And we are off....making things look pretty and hopefully non leaky.

Just the sort of things enjoy.

Here we go (again)

A fair maintenance wash this weekend and shines up pretty well considering it’s 18 years.