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Spoke with the specialist. Car seems fine, they're keeping the car overnight so they can do a cold start in the morning and check for oil leaks etc before they hand it back.

It compares the rotation speed of each wheel so if some tyres are loosing pressures more than others, it should trigger a warning. It can't detect when all four wheels loose pressure at the same rate but that's what your monthly/weekly checks are for

When it eventually gets there ....

Cutting a long story short, I've gone with another local Skoda dealer who I'd had previous comms with!! Its a total cash deal, well p/x and cash i mean!! Still getting 1st 2 services thrown in, but paying a mere £20 more than revised offer from original sheisters!!! However, I'm happy paying that extra 20 quid tbh, no messing around with endless finance forms, selfies etc lol, and probably only a few quid in it when you consider fees etc!! Should be with me either later this month, or early Jan.. Don't f*ck with me lol!!!

@vrskeith Just too many pretty cars to choose from and as for picking a Porsche from the ones outside i would be lost in what to get, but it might be a white one.

All my bits came this Morning for upgrading my current Karcher Set-Up, Absolute Game changer and well impressed Looking forward to trying it out! Old Karcher Set Up... New Set Up, Autobrite Shorty Gun, 8M Heavy Duty Hose, 2 x Adaptors to upgrade existing Karcher Connections to Quick Release and Quick Release Interchangeable Nozzles 0°, 15°, 25°, 40° and 60° degree sizes... Converted existing Autobrite Lance from Karcher (Top) to New Style 1/4 Male Quick Release Connector (Bottom)... Autobrite Shorty Gun & Lance Combo... Old vs New...

Head gasket failed, combustion chamber leak on number 3 cylinder - very slight but can be seen from the exhaust valve colour & the witness marks on the head and gasket. also leaking around the tappet galleries into the head bolt holes but thats no problem in itself. The gasket looks to be delaminating where its in contact with the water jacket but that might be a camera illusion, more shadows etc. The noise was definitely a sticking lifter, I would have run it on a thin grade fully synthetic oil and driven it like you had stolen it (after the head gasket change) that usually sorts out sticking lifters. Was there any water in the oil? rust will cause a lifter to stick but thats usually when an engine has been sat in a salvage yeard with the head off or the intake tract open.

Opposite for mine .... She has a stopwatch !

Greenline got them because ironically enough the disc set up was lighter than drums...

I had a call from Dean at Skôda a few days ago. Apparently the tech team are working on a solution and expect it imminently. I wonder if I’ll be able to put the clock on the digital dash too?

The most respected Briskoda-ers available!

Mk3 Octavia and Mk3 Superb alloys are interchangeable. Had wheels from 2017 Octavia on 2019 Superb and those are now on my wife's 2018 Karoq. Had a 2013 63 plate 150PS manual Octavia remapped from 147 to 186bhp and from 246 to 317lb/ft by AmD in Essex in 2014 and top speed went from 135mph standard to 150mph so it was faster than a Vrs TDi. Economy dropped from a best of 71mpg standard to 70mpg remapped.

They will pump up and make an awfull racket whilst doing so, new ones usually settle quite quickly.

I'm not condoning the removal of the silicate bag on your Skodas but the first thing I did when I got my Leon was remove it. That's speaking as someone who deals with the consequences of them failing on a fairly regular basis.

I fitted the ones from Superskoda - SWMBO commented that she needs sunglasses!

DQ381 arrived with the GPF 272, no 280 has it, and will continue with the new 2021 GPF 280. I'm sure the choice to change yet again the bhp to an already used value will create quite a mess when trying to define models and engines...

4K EUR difference is crazy. In Sweden both are ending up around 45K eur for the same equipment, plus there are some stuff that the L&K doesn't get even as an option that my buddy likes, like the flat bottom steering wheel with perforated leather, alcantara trim, tinted headlights, etc. etc. so he's going for the Sportline. There's no sound deadening difference that I'm aware of between a SportLine and L&K, and I have never noticed too much noise in my SportLine either.

Stick with your Mk3! I’m not entirely convinced with these mild hybrids, seems that manufacturers are all jumping on the hybrid band wagon and most are a compromise. These packaged optional extra bundles aren’t ideal either. I’d be happy with a heated screen and washers, but feel no need for heated seats or steering wheel.

2018 Superb - reading the Octavia IV forum will reveal many owners having software problems that Skoda seem unable to fix at the moment. Maybe the Octavia IV will be a good idea in a year or two, but at the moment I wouldn't spend my pennies on one.

You really should consider buying a petrol, short journeys like that will be the death of a diesel engine. I had similar commute to work and had nothing but dpf issues in my previous (non-skoda) car. Your car probably isn't even getting up to normal running temp on the drive to work so idling at a higher revs to warm up, mine didn't and it was a 1.6. I changed job and now have an hour long drive to work so bought diesel again, since lockdown and working from home now, all trips to drop kids to school etc are done in the missus petrol car, I learnt the dpf lesson the hard way .

You just put the new downloaded updated maps on to your Skoda SD card .

I've just bought the Senny 450BTs on Amazon Got a job I can use them on coming up soon I have a pair of Aventree Headphones that are class 1 and APTX LL (now discontinued by Aventree I think) that I use quite a bit as they are fine for speech, and also a pair of Senny 4.5s but they don't support LL or Class 1. My home cans are Bose QCs but although light and reasonable sounding, they don't support APTX and are class 2. My work cans when using wired headphones are Senny HD25s, which are rugged and easy to get replacement bits for. I also have various earbuds too. I get through a lot of headphones

Just looking through available products and I see the Sennheiser HD450s look good value as they are Bluetooth 5, Class 1 (12.5mw tx power so reasonable) and has the APTX codecs onboard. I'm now thinking of buying them myself https://assets.sennheiser.com/global-downloads/file/14806/HD_458BT_Manual_EN.pdf https://www.amazon.co.uk/Sennheiser-Wireless-Headphones-active-cancellation-Black/dp/B083T4XJDY/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=Sennheiser+HD+450BT&qid=1607438633&s=instant-video&sr=1-1

I was in a Kia Ceed yesterday. The neighbour has owned it for a year having stepped down from a 2L diesel to this 1L petrol. I was very surprised. Fit and finish are good although some plastics as in every vehicle now a bit hard. Nice seats, comfortable, lots of toys, boot about same as Yeti. Foe a 1L petrol I was amazed at how refined and willing the engine was. The 1.4L would be worth a look if you are not after 4wd. Colin

A bit late to this post but I use Bluetooth transmitters a lot at work. I'd recommend (assuming you haven't got around to buying one already) buying a class 1 Tx which supports APTX LL (Low Latency) APTX is a great for quality and if your Rx device supports LL as well, then you get less than 40ms delay in the transmitted sound so you can watch tv without any major sync issues with audio. Class 1 Tx isn't so important but it does give a greatly enhanced broadcast range if you have appropriate receiving gear. As the headphones/earbuds have to 'handshake' with the Tx device, they will also need to be class 1 to get the best of the potentially enhance range. Most Bluetooth devices are class 2 which is fine for line of sight and the latest Bluetooth 5 spec improves stability a little bit. Currently, I mainly use an Aventree class1 Tx device which supports APTX LL/HD along with other codecs etc. I listen on either an appropriate pair of headphones or use Mee in-ear buds which have a Bluetooth adapter that fits directly to the buds and gives me LL capabilities. You can also buy cheap little hockey puck looking devices that are APTX LL/HD and you can then plug your headphone/earbuds into. Aventree Tx/Rx class 1 APTX LL/HD - that also has fibre optic i/p https://www.amazon.co.uk/Avantree-Bluetooth-Transmitter-Receiver-Wireless-Black/dp/B07BQYYDNJ/ref=sr_1_8?dchild=1&keywords=avantree+tx&qid=1607436366&sr=8-8 Mee Bluetooth 5 APTX LL earbud adapter (these are for Mee earbuds but other similar models are available for different manufacturers earbuds) https://www.amazon.co.uk/MEE-Bluetooth-Wireless-adapter-monitors/dp/B07TN2HJYH/ref=sr_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=mee+bluetooth+adapter&qid=1607436701&sr=8-4 Here is a handy APTX guide to what is available. If you don't need LL or Class 1 range, I'd still recommend going for APTX devices for the improved quality available with their various codecs. https://www.aptx.com/product-listing

You have to download the maps to the Skoda card, any other SD card won’t work.

As an armchair observer, this would be enough to take the white one off any shortlist I had. G

No the 280 had the older 6 speed so does more rpm at 70mph than the 7 speed in the 272 which saves fuel on the motorway. It sits at just 2,000rpm in 7th at the legal limit. My 2020 diesel 7 speed DSG does just 1,600rpm at 70 mph.

Probably to do with the costs and budgets, drums will be cheaper to manufacter and install so depending on the cars variant / budget will depend on the components used? This is just a assumption. Also, depending on how the manufacter wants the veichle to look out the factory, many prefer the look of disc brakes to drums. So to at least try and answer the question, I am guessing it's for aesthetics, avaliability of components and the costs associated with these (this might be why they swap bewteen the two). Obviously depending on the country each veichle may be designed and manufactered slightly different. If that makes any sense

That sorted it! Thanks a lot, I had visions of huge dealer garage bills for pulling the dash out to fix it. Thanks for your help, I appreciate it.

I've decided to go with the local VW specialist at £257. They have a good reputation and did a good job on my Golf a few years ago. The service is oil and filter change, pollen and air filter change and spark plugs if they aren't long life. The brake pads and discs will be checked amongst other things and I will be advised of any further work required.

You take the SD card home and update it on a computer with an SD card reader. You can update the Ents system with a USB stick but not the Nav. You don't need to buy a new SD card.

With a 2.0 diesel. Dang, i bet it's not even warm by the time you get to work! Good luck with the regens.

Amundsen navigation doesn't work without sd card in unit.

Car was penciled in to have the new turbo installed tomorrow, but I've just seen a mechanic driving my car around an industrial estate. I don't know any more info than that, but I'm more hopefully of some good news later today.

Take your time and all will be well. Don't forget to clear out the headbolt holes/threads of any coolant or oil.

Had mine a month a 2015 L&K 150 TDI with some very nice options inc Pan Roof, Rear Heated Seats, Lane & Park assist, Heated Screen and 4x4. My second Skoda 1st was a 2006 Mk2 TDI Octavia estate again a L&K.

Snap. I got followed by flashing blue lights on a dual carriageway after touching 70-ish overtaking some lorries. I turned off at the next roundabout, boys in blue followed me & stuck religiously to the 30mph limit, blue lights went out behind but they still followed me for another half mile before turning off (enough time I reckon for them to check the number plate & insurance). Phew. BTW, a stage 1 remap makes a huge difference.

Looks to me like a man who is not really happy at the outcome and keeping the car.

Honestly, it never crossed my mind to replace it because this chrome doesn't bother me. But I think I'd prefer it all blackened.

It shows up here when the cruise control is switched off and for a short time after opening the driver's door. It's under the "mi".

Have a look at the inside of the pulley of the alternator, I think it'll look like this with just a simple nut in there, that's the non-clutch version:

Personally, I'm not sure that it would be worth risking making a bit of a mess. I would class it along with taking the wallpaper with you when you move house

Read my signature. Fuel System & Ignition / Simos 2P / Simos 2P Fuel Injection & Ignition System / Page 24-22 Engine / Engine 1.3 (135, 136) / 1.3 Itr. Engine, Mechanical Components / Page 20-18

There is no such thing as a Full Service. If there is it is much more than a 4 year old / 40,000 mile car would get. (BMW do the Big Service at around 125, 000 miles for over £1,200, if someone is stupid enough to pay. change all fluids and bulbs and do a Major service.) There is Fixed or Variable Services. So Minor & Major time about. Each year / 9,400 miles. Or Major & Major at 2 years and 4 years. 18,000-20,000 miles or sooner between services. Now it is called Oil & Inspection Services & Extended Scope at 3 years. On Skoda Fixed Service & Maintenance menus for cars 3-10 years old on Fixed Servicing and the parts are paid for as extras other tyan the Oil Filter and Sump Plug. *At participating dealers.* ??? So what is the 'Full Service' to get done? Is it Oil & Filter, Pollen Filter, Air Filter, Spark Plugs replaced? Was the Brake Fluid changed @ 3 years?

Something that has been bugged me since I purchased the Car was the Headlight Switch, There was a couple of Hairline Cracks in the Surround and as its me I decided to remove the Switch to see how the surround was attached and then it made it even worse It must have been holding it all together as it was fitted in the Dashboard and then me removing it a piece broke off. Sourced a replacement this Morning locally so went a collected it, £15 and 2 Mins to fit it. Sorted! Before After

Thank you for your reply bigjohn. I found the problem in the end. There are actually two sender units, one for each side of the fuel tank. I only found this mentioned very briefly in the workshop manual after a lot of searching on erwin. When I looked under the left back seat, I found a not quite finished mouse nest on the fuel tank cover with the wires to the sender unit neatly bitten off flush with the plug. Once I soldered it back together - hey presto normal fuel gauge again! It appears that the gauge adds up the readings from the two sides, so if one is not working you get about half the fuel level reported. Even though it's front wheel drive, there is still a transmission tunnel and the fuel tank is kind of draped over it and therefore has a vacuum pump and sender unit on the left hand side as well as the normal fuel pump and sender on the right.

Autumn ride through Czech forest

It sounds like you and I are running basically exactly the same cars 👍 - manual 230 hatches (albeit yours 2 years younger + FL), both Stage 1 Racingline maps with 330bhp, both 235/35 R19s. I should have added that the APR and 034 (without the additional part they require) mounts do operate exactly the same and have absolutely zero discernable difference in NVH properties from each other. I did see your other thread, I think I also commented (can't remember!), but given what you've described, I'm pretty convinced that the noise is axle tramp under the increased power - especially since we've extended stock BHP by +100 or thereabouts. Mine did it before I replaced the mounts, although I don't tend to pull away hard that often to save the stock clutch for now. Personally, I would go for it to see how you get on with it 😊 It's not an invasive mod, it's not that expensive for a test, and it's fully reversible - so long as you ensure you replace the bolts each time to prevent stripping.

Ok so first, I'm sorry to hear about this but really don't go crazy please, you're definitely not the first to have a IS38 blown sure and plenty of options down the road that will get you up n running with a much greater reliability long term. Now, I have said it before, thing with these engines is everybody is supposedly able to tune them, and maybe they all run similar peak boost but the way the power is made and how all supporting parameters are adjusted is what makes all the difference both in end performance and reliability. Research, research, research. If you can't swear by a particular smaller tuner you're thinking about or don't know first hand the owners of the cars they mapped and how the have fared over time don't take your chances and go with a big name that at least in this platform and engine are all proven with thousands of cars around the world, especially at such off-the-shelf tuning levels of stage 1 and 2. Don't cheap out on remaps, you are at worst talking about a mere couple hundred more for something which could have an impact of a multiple times higher cost. That been said, yes the IS38 turbocharger is known for its shaft weakness, although as the revisions came along (there's been a few since 2014) cases were diminishing and the majority of cars post 2016 have been fine. Myself I've had two IS38 cars both mapped to 370-390bhp from two different tuners and both have been fine, plenty of others I know that are stage 2 and still fine, then I've read about stocks cars blown, it was really a lottery with chances dropping the younger the cars are... Due to this history, It's very hard / impossible to be able to categorically blame the tuner or the turbo unit, or partly both so it does not really make any sense to chase the causes of this any further as it won't get you anywhere (apart from making you mad probably). I remember in an earlier post of yours stating the tuner had trouble keeping the intake temps down which is rather unusual for a stage 1 map, more important though you also say you've had issues with him in the past which really begs the question why you took your chances with them. It's a rhetorical question, no need to answer it. Where do you go from here: Are you happy with the car otherwise? Do you plan to keep it for some time? If (and only if) the answer is no then head back to your original tuner, ask them to replace the turbo with a used IS38 from the used parts market (cost around 500-700EUR) and ask them to revert the software to the stock map (every decent tuner should be able to provide this for free, especially after such an incident) and move on. However I don't think this is what you had in mind. If you've answered yes then the good news are that instead of a costly replacement you can upgrade your own turbo to a much greater standard (uprated shaft, bearings, balancing etc.) and decide what power you want to run, you could simply leave it at stage 2 levels of 400bhp or go for more. For example, I've heard really good stuff about Dan (i think is his name) from Littco: https://www.littco.co.uk/hybrid-turbos-1-c.asp They offer lots of very affordable upgrade options depending on what you want to do and the fact you will be sending them your own turbo to serve as the base is keeping the cost down. FYI the housing itself has no issues and can run over 500bhp, it's the core/shaft that is prone to fail so it's an easy fix for a company that knows what they're doing. For example the L380 MQB option with "Supercore" upgrade is just 660 GBP and you've got nothing to worry after that. I'd suggest calling them and explaining your situation and they should be able to advice you accordingly. Then after the turbo is sorted choose your next tuner wisely (a whole different discussion). Yes it's not for free but much lower than other more serious failures and you will have removed a known weakness of the stock engine/turbo. In any case I think it's clear you should not even consider an OEM turbo at full retail price (there is no cost covered by the warranty obviously as you said), as even if running stock power you could end up right in the same position after a while. Plus there is no reason to do that really. The gen3 EA888 engine is one of the most solid that have come out from VAG in terms of reliability and tuning potential with the IS38 turbo being the only real possibility for failure which at least is easily addressed. Let us know how you decide to proceed and remember **** happens all the time, as long as it's not something terminal don't beat yourself up too much. I don't know how power hungry you are but personally I'd have seen it as the perfect excuse to proceed with my hybrid turbo plans...