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SUNSET, ST GEORGE'S PARK. BRISTOL

Welcome. Main Dealers are nothing special really. Hit or miss who works on your car as it is anyplace. Master Tech, Tech, Apprentice, Fitter or a Mechanical Engineer. If the dealers sales person mentioned a DSG service they must know more as in where done. So just ask if there is an invoice with the car because an Independent servicing the DSG does not void a warranty if VAT registered and using the correct fluids and filter. It is not that uncommon as you will see in Briskoda where there are members that go to independents or DIY because they want to and maybe because they do not trust Skoda Main Dealerships to do much more than an Oil & Filter change, or even to do that correctly and fill to the correct level.

You sound upset, take a while to calm down then you should apologise to the OP for talking irrelevance.

You are correct. the EGR is under the DPF on the back of the engine. The combined EGR valve and cooler units have a whole array of different failure modes compared to the EGR units that are mounted to the front of the engine.

VW are unreal. Shameless infact. First they need to get their Software sorted on the cars already being delivered to customers, be that with the ID.3 or the Hybrids and ICE vehicles. Stop the kidology of WLTP figures with Hybrids and the range when using electricity. Then get out the ID.4 and Enyaq with no snagging faults. Maybe produce and deliver the ID.Buzz that they have been teasing with for years now. 'Autocar' / Haymarket Media Group' should be asking questions of VW Bosses and their tech and what they actually are selling customers now rather than just being Fanboys and publishing what ever VW Group tell them. *VW Group are putting out vehicles now to get them registered and lower the C02 g/km average even though all functions are not available on the vehicles.*

Replace the DSG oil, filter plus the drain plug washer and o-ring on the filter housing. The parts are far from cheap. Even at cost price the oil is about £15 a litre x 6 litres (£90), £20 for a filter then the seals £5. There's something like half an hours labour then the VAT on top. On the fixed price scheme you never get the full labour times. There's no reset involved either. Run it up to temp and check the oil level, road test and that's it. Personally I road test them and run a diagnostic check before and after. There's far too many chancers with a known problem on their gearbox who book in to have the oil changed then show up a couple of days later with said fault claiming that it's only come about "since you changed the oil".

Finally have the car back. I've been told to take it easy for a while. They've tried to get as much oil out of the intake as possible but there's a chance that there's still some in the intercooler so I need to go easy and not force it all through the engine in one go. The catalytic converter sustained some damage, but they don't believe it's going to impact flow so have left it on the car. The map is still on the car, and I'm going back to get the car on the rolling road in the new year just to check performance is still good and compare the new turbo to the old one. If it needs any tweaks they'll sort it out then. Total cost, £1150. While it's a lot of money, I'm over the money it wasn't something more serious.

Not so good, I was told 7 updates needed, I have contacted Skoda UK with complaint re car, car goes in on Monday and will wait and see what the outcome is, Skoda will contact me on Monday and if no fix the complaint will be escalated.

Here are the photos they've done a lovely job highly recommend, very clean. Hehe I did ask them if I could put it all back together as I didn't touch the valve screws taking it off etc, but they was like no, it wont start, you have to do the initial setup again, they also let me take a photo of there book, which I'm sure is the same as what TMB provided, I'll share that image anyway! Gonna start a fresh and put it all back together tomorrow, I've put all the new hydraulic lifters in, the old ones was quite difficult to get out, kept falling off the magnet, but I managed it. Just need to give the cylinder block a good clean.

Also When I taught my daughter to drive, I advised that when pulling up at a junction, never have the front wheels turned and pointing at the junction, always leave them straight ahead until ready to turn, Why?, because if you are hit from behind you don't get pushed in to the path of oncoming traffic.

You can lock the gearbox in park if there is too much pressure on the pin and forcing it to release can damage the cable. So use the handrake to hold *before* putting it in park.

I did say right off the bat that I thought it would cost a few hundred quid to replace the EGR valve and clean the existing DPF and I stand by that statement, obviously you should get some quotes nonetheless. My ill-chosen example of the same work done recently with good results on a different engine was intended to illustrate the benefits rather than send your thread off the rails.

Can I start off by thanking those above who have helped me quickly diagnose and repair this fault on SWMBO Yeti. For those of you are afflicted with the same issue, the part number is the same but is revised or made by a different supplier as it’s now 5L6-827-505-E and cost me £42.25 from my local dealer (they had one in stock) I was also quoted £80 labour to fit for those who aren’t happy doing this themselves. (The price from a local independent to supply and fit was very comparable) The hardest part is removing the tailgate trim, which isn’t for the feint hearted and requires some brute force and levers (I found wooden spoons to be handy when it started to move) and you only really need to open the bottom part up and not remove the whole trim to gain access to the lock. The whole operation of replacing it takes just a few minutes when you get the trim separated. Beware the size 8, 3 square spline headed bolts, I managed with a good T40 torx bit - but was getting ready to go and buy one which wouldn’t be a bad idea. From failure to fix in 12 hours. The mechanism had failed exactly the same as above, and there are plenty of YouTube videos on this failure on a range of VAG cars to be found. Anyhow, thanks again.

Fact is, as soon as sepulchrave described it as a 'quick and easy job', I had considerable doubts that it could be the same set-up. Only way I could be sure is to dig down into which engine sep was referring to, and had worked on. No malice or hidden meanings.

I’m sorry but I really don’t see that as what the others were saying. From my point of view, you gave me some advice that I took on board, then the others gave me a second opinion, which I also took on board. It really didn’t seem to be intended as a personal attack or intended to undermine your knowledge, Wino was just asking for the part number because he wanted to do some further research on what you said.

To be fair I thought it was a very diplomatic way to ask for conformation of something he suspected. Before telling you that you were incorrect in this instance he wanted to be sure. And indeed, in this case your advice was irrelevant as it's a different EGR system.

Please read the response of Skoda to the OP 2 posts up. They are only doing a repair using parts, and refusing any warranty on the repair so if it breaks a week later, thats it you're stuffed. Quite shocking, I'm sure the ombudsman would have something to say about that. As someone who has battled my Skoda deaker and Skoda UK on far too many occasions on warranty and goodwill, I have heard the phrase "don't do warranty on warranty repairs" many times. But equally I have heard the phrase "but if you pay something towards the repair,even a pound, you will automatically get 2 years parts and labour warranty on the repair". It was perfectly clear everytime I spoke to the warranty/service manager, often asking her to repeat. And this was with 100% parts goodwill. So now Skoda UK are clearly saying goodwill is a one time shot if we so deem and if it fails again, tough. Fortunately my battles were won, they were lower value items than the OP (worst case was a diff on a manual gearbox) and the cars were of much lower value than the OPs. This makes me very wary about the Skoda brand now. I really must make more effort to investigate Kia/Hyundai/Toyota etc properly next time I look for a car. Anyone who buys a DSG car really should invest in the extended warranty at the start of ownership. The cost of a DSG failure is far too high, and there are are far too many tales of woe on this forum even botched/unsuccessful/cost escalating repairs for me to ever consider a DSG from VAG As for ever getting a new DSG gearbox under goodwill/warranty, I'd doubt it very much, the best you're likely to get is a rebuilt/recon box. Same goes for engine swaps. Not that a new part would be any better or more reliable.

3-4 if memory serves

I was asking because I believe that's a very different EGR style and positioning to the OP's. Will happily research it further.

Are you touching the lamp glass when you’re fitting new lamps. Oil residue etc from fingers causes premature failures.

The EGR valves strip gear teeth because they get clogged, if they're kept clean they don't fail. I've just had to replace one on a Passat 2.0 TDI and it was almost completely blocked, the valve was stuck and the teeth were stripped, it was just over £100 for a new one, I also fitted an EGR flow reduction gasket with a smaller hole at the same time, the job was quick and easy, access was tricky to a couple of the bolts but added no more than ten minutes to the job. As a consequence of the EGR failure the DPF had become clogged and could not regenerate, the owner had the DPF professionally cleaned and now the car behaves like new. So I do actually know what I'm talking about.

Car was due to have its stage 2 today, but all I ended up with was the tvs stage 3 dsg upgrade. Some months ago I had a 3inch centre pipe fitted with a vibrant resonator. The place that did it made such a bodge job of it, that the garage who were doing the upgrade today said that the milltek downpipe wouldn't mount to my new centre section. The guy that fitted my centre section has welded it to my downpipe instead of sleeving and clamping it. On top of this, someone has placed the new resonator that close to the prop shaft, that it is occasionally touching it. You can see a one inch wide band around the prop where the black paint has been rubbed off. :( Ive been to a proper exhaust shop this time, and they'll make and fit me a 3inch system from the turbo back to the Y pipe for a grand (no resonator). Once this is done, I can go back and get the stage 2 remap done.

TBH not all Brexit.....merely 11,000 containers full of PPE at Felixstowe is causing massive importation issues if the truth be known and container ships are struggling to unload. We have lots of supply chain issues and have had since early November. They only show you/us the side they want and the way they want to paint it....Honda (Japan) were negotiating their own trade deal with the EU back in 2013.

This is the bit I really dislike. Manufacturers see EV as an easy target to upsell people into less efficient crossovers or SUV's. I guess my point is, we, as consumers, shouldn't be focused on the mileage figure (like camera megapixels or computer CPU GHz). End of the day it's not as important as efficiency. Focusing on this single range figure pushes for undesirable design choices, the worst of which is like putting 90 kWh battery to achieve range less than 250 miles (Jag IPace), in comparison Model Y is said to achieve 230 miles with just 55 kWh battery. The number one focus should always be on efficiency, getting more range out of smaller battery. It's not just weight of the car. With the push for longer range EV, I fear we end up everyone driving with 150 kWh battery cars for 30 daily miles. Where production of the car batteries generate more greenhouse gases than if we had stuck with petrol-hybrid. Wanting more range is understandable, but it needs to come from efficiency gains, not from having ever bigger batteries. (unless the larger battery can be made with less material than early EV's) This is the other reason I really like idea of range-extended serial hybrid (i3 REx, Ampera). It allows people to be on electric vast majority of the time with just enough battery size, also doesn't drive well if fuelled purely from fossil fuel, and don't need to be at mercy of the infrastructure for longer trips.

Found a review of the new Octavia on YouTube where he has the exact problem at around 2:10

Thanks for the replies so far! A

@Rjbell Is it a Skoda Approved Used car and coming with 12 month or a 24 month Warranty? (Remainder of the manufacturers warranty.) ? What other servicing has it had, was it on Fixed / Annual so at 9,400 miles or Variable and Oil & Filter done twice at 18,000-20,000 miles each? What about the Warranty History, has it needed anything, maybe like the Dealership needing to put it to an independent for a new gearbox or anything like that. ? What are the tyres on the car, how are the brakes, do they need new pads or discs? ? Is the windscreen chip free?

Well said - 100% agree, concerns about lack of infrastructure mean that what we need is range to make EVs attractive to more buyers/leasers.

All you can assume is that they have the DSG that starts with e- before the code. e-DQ200, e-DQ400 etc. To suit the 1.0 & 1.5 TSI Mild hybrids then the ones to suit the Plug in Hybrids.

I know a few automatic gearbox drivers that do not use the handbrake. Probably OK on the flat, but any incline I would apply the handbrake. Also I have always turned the wheels towards the kerb when parking on a hill, whether a manual or auto gearbox. Just a habit.

Either get a professional valeter to machine polish to remove swirls then wax or get someone to vinyl wrap it in gloss black or another finish that you like.

@J.R. I've not done the job myself, nor do I fancy doing from what I've seen, but have a look on youtube for relevant videos of the replacement process/access. I watched this one recently, but I fear it is rather long for your taste. Don't remember noticing the electrical connection's access but I think if you skim through it you'll find what you're after.

Ciao e benvenuto daredevis Gaz

No, I'm sorry, you're all quite right. The OP should just go and buy a new car, half a days labour to change that valve makes it a write-off, please ignore me, I'm so glad that more of you just piled in to make me see the error of my ways in giving duff advice. I should have looked at the detailed schematics of that particular engine and decided that the work was impossible instead of drawing on my own recent experiences of just getting on with it, I must just be lucky that every job I do is so easy. I'm too gung-ho, I don't use manuals at all, just a cowboy really. Thank you all for straightening me out. Peace out.

Just to add a comment, had a MK2 1.9 TDI for 12 years and started to have issues with the turbo sticking fault, cleaned turbo and EGR and replaced cat converter, all was well but then found that other issues like corrosion on parts worn bushes etc became an issue every MOT, did the work myself but still a fair bit of cash to to fork out every year, then last year went to drive to Bristol for a shopping trip only to find that private diesel cars were banned from city centre, ok used park and ride not an issue but if more towns and cites start to do this getting a petrol might be money well spent now, electric is the answer but need to improve vastly.

You're sorted then, personally I'd go with the VAG/terraclean specialist for this work and use your regular garage for other run-of-the-mill work.

Over time the gearbox will adapt to differing driving styles. I've dealt with complaints in the past where a husband and wife will have "his and hers" cars. One ends up using the other's car to pop down the shops, notices how differently it drives and assumes it's got a fault with it. Next thing it's in the dealership. Tests show up nothing, you explain why it's doing what it's doing, they laugh at you, complain to skoda, skoda confirm what you've said is correct, they then leave with a little bit more knowledge about their car and hopefully a little bit more respect for the "yard-apes" in charge of repairing them. The reset is a good idea. Keeps things nice and crisp.

Why do you think that spending a few hundred quid constitutes a huge repair bill? You'll spend a vast amount more changing cars, thousands of pounds which will just slide off in depreciation. If you're worried about the EGR and DPF then get them properly cleaned before they go wrong, prevention is always better (and cheaper) than cure.

Hi all. I have found out what it is. Its an automatic firmware update.

Men discussing brollies on a car forum....it'll be floral seat covers next

Here is a list of vw underbody plugs from the www.tdiclub.com website... (I searced vw underbody plugs) I think the one you want is the N90508801 44x24mm oval plastic plug for flat hole - The ebay prices look a bit scary. You might be better finding what a dealer charges. 1K0899185 40mm round plastic plug for flat hole -- two on each side behind rocker panels N10138801 30mm round plastic plug for deep hole -- one on each side behind front wheels N10226501 30mm round plastic plug for flat hole -- one on each side in box section N90508801 44x24mm oval plastic plug for flat hole -- four in each rocker panel plus one more each side N90402801 30x14mm oval plastic plug for deep hole -- one each side behind front wheels (plus one more each side towards the rear?) N10124501 (I think) 19.5mm round plastic plug for deep hole -- one each side in front of rear wheels

Drums give you a much stronger handbrake, discs are better at scrubbing off speed, faster cars have rear discs because there is far less weight transfer when braking at high speed. Drums are always cheaper for the manufacturer.

Got some stripes for the grille in the post today. Only cost me a few pound on amazon and I think it looks quite smart.

Not really much in the way of a full update. I have sourced a supposedly good (but used and still 15yr old) engine loom, and have bitten the bullet and ordered a new engine loom from TPS. That way I can rule out any electrical maladies from ECU to engine at least. I have a new camshaft signal sensor to go on, so that means ALL the engine sensors are now brand new, Crank Sensor, Cam Sensor, CTS Sensor, Fuel Temp Sensor and MAF sensor as well. I have yet to collect the loom from TPS as it has had to be sourced from outer Mongolia it seems, so that will be this week at some point. If I still have Crank signal issues it's pointing to the signal reluctor ring on the crank possibly having a bent tooth (could have knocked it refitting the crank maybe) so that might mean sump coming off to check. That will deff have to wait till after xmas. In the meantime I have sourced a bolt in rear strut brace (purely because I like the cosmetic look of it....) and had it powdercoated in RAL 6029 (mint green) This matches the calipers perfectly, so that has been fitted. Excuse the pile of corruption in the boot... Whilst at the mercy of the powdercoaters, I decided to have the front strutbrace done to match as it will provide a splash of colour in the engine bay. Please note the front brace isn't fitted properly, just popped roughly in place to take a pic, as I've got to strip a bit of the engine bay back out it made little sense bolting it down fully. A while ago, prob 2 years tbh, I found a seller on facebook with the rare rear seat with the middle rear headrest option. Middle of nowhere in wet wales I picked it up for not a lot of money (£30 from memory) and stored it in the loft, I knew it was grubby and would need a deep clean so that's what else I've been doing. Before... Grubby but not holed or damaged thankfully. I did toy with the idea of stripping the material off the seat and washing it but the backrest looked possibly the hardest to do so I cleaned it in one piece. Using my trusted Autosmart Bio-Brisk interior shampoo, a splash of Bilt Hamber surfex in with it, I set to scrubbing the seat then extracting using very hot water in the extraction machine. After one pass... In all it has taken four sessions of scrubbing, extracting and drying to get it clean... Nearly 100% dry now so can be fitted into the car this week. Now I was left with the rear seat squab and other back rest of the used manky seat I bought, so I have stripped the upholstery off the seat bases just now in readiness to machine wash. Not a pretty sight... These are currently having a good session in the washing machine at 40c so i'll see what they come out like. I suspect they will need to be washed again to get all the filth off. The water and suds in the machine was brown. And the missus noticed.... Once they are clean and dry i'll put them away somewhere safe for a little side project I have planned..... (watch this space) Next interior job is to get the drivers seat out and then find in my loft, pretty much the last new seat foam base that was available from factory, purchased in 2015. I need to replace the base foam in the driver seat as it's starting to break down on the drivers side edge bolster an I don't want the material going in a hole over the framework. More pics on that when I get to it. Matt

If its of help to anyone, I've just found out that the 280ps engine is now available to order and that the lead time is 10-12 weeks.

I had the same problems with ECP dogsh!t pads, ended up tickling the metal backing plates with a grinder until they moved freely.

In the style of Jim from Friday Night Dinner.... "Hello All....." It's been a while, nearly 12 months in fact since I gave a proper update, it's been a busy old year. We moved house mid November 2019, not far, less than 2 miles in fact but we have gone from renting to owning again after a few years. Needless to say, the house that was pretty much perfect, move straight in etc has occupied every single hour of spare time and money and the poor car has sat under cover in the new garage. Good news is the house is pretty much finished and the enforced COVID-19 lockdown period has allowed me to finish 5 years worth of house DIY in 6 months! Some of you may remember the slightly bigger garage at the new house, in fact it's a usable large tandem garage that has been significantly enhanced in the period we have been here. I have insulated the roof, plasterboarded, 7x new 6' Twin LED lights, cut and installed a large double glazed window where there was a plain wall, new composite door to the patio as well as grinding the whole concrete floor by hand before laying a screed of Ardex K301 concrete floor compound. Oh yeah and a new electric roller door. The plan was to build a lovely space to keep the car / cars and have a well lit, warm and dry place to do detailing & maintenance, so I have fitted the end of the garage out with units and worktop/tiles to finish it off. Here is how the garage looked to start with.. Fast forward many months of graft, DIY injuries, late nights, early mornings and we're nearly finished now... Coupled with the internals, we have had the front of the house changed, new driveway, fences, as well as rear decking - and I though cars could absorb money.... Upshot is, if anyone's still reading, is that i'll be back on the car soon, getting some more part from TPS the weekend so I've no excuse now to get stuck into it. Just need to Epoxy resin coat the garage floor first.... Thanks for reading! Matt