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Just joined the 280 club today, picking up just before Xmas. Rather excited, have been sniffing around them for some and suddenly saw this online this morning, Had only just been dropped off by the last owner so not valeted or anything yet. Think I got her for a really good price so very happy. SEL spec with 19"s. Nice and subtle.

Hi all, Needing more space, yesterday I part exchanged my Karoq 4x4 SE-L for a 2021 Superb Estate which should be delivered around March. I went with a SE-L in Black Magic in 4x4 200 2.0TDI DSG guise with rear parking camera, tow bar, spare wheel and lane assist. Is there is anything I should be looking out for? Thanks Andy

Try this link. Torque figs here https://www.dropbox.com/sh/6mvh3pqryshv3rp/AAAYSoCsp-vVWz-h4ko4QoAha?dl=0

This problem seems to be finally solved All it needed was just a replacement PAS pump... I could not find any problem with steering angle sensor (actually turned out to be Hall-type), so it was either the pump or rack. I ordered a renewed PAS pump from a Polish company, Auto Fun. It cost abt. 220 € inc shipping to Finland and it comes with 2 yr warranty. IMO this was the most feasible solution taking into account the value of the car. The reason I talked about changing both pump and rack was because I recall seeing some information that SMI Koyo parts should be renewed together for some reason (maybe €€€...?) Of course I had to disassemble the old PAS pump, and actually I found some damaged sealings at the gear pump located in the unit. It sounds logical that there was an internal pressure leak between intake and outlet of the gear pump. There was also some corrosion visible inside the PAS pump, but not very much - looks like electronics are still intact. I mounted the "new" pump, filled the system with fresh PAS fluid, started the engine, did a few lock-to-lock twists and checked the fluid level. Dropped the car on its wheels and went for a test ride - worked like a charm from the first moment! Thanks to all or your comments and help!

Possibly item 22 on here?... https://skoda.7zap.com/en/cz/fabia/fab/2006-453/9/903-903055/

Rusty looks so good on track! And in great company. Photos by https://www.instagram.com/haydouken/ Hope he doesn't mind me lifting the shadows slightly to bring out the rear end details on Rusty!

Can't believe the latest 245 Octavia weighs 1,525kg the cost of technology. It won't be as economical as my old 2017 version carrying the extra 155kg around all the time. It even weighs more than my current Superb diesel.

This problem of manuals describing features you don't have exists with every car manual I have ever seen. Car manufacturers only print one version of the manual for all the variants of each model. But have Skoda really stopped including a paper manual or has the previous owner just failed pass it on?

So I picked up our Karoq at end of November. Must say 10/10 for staff and service at Marshall’s Skoda Croydon. A very no pressure sale including an unaccompanied hour test drive and a ‘contactless’ handover during lockdown two. Didn’t think changing a car could be so easy at difficult times but they managed to make it so. Now that must state now I work in the car industry myself so I am more critical than most and know what to look out for! I work for an opposing brand too!! Having done a lot of research and swapping over from a VW we went for the 1.5TSI DSG SEL in Quartz Grey, no options as this seemed to have the most bang for buck and was due in stock within a few weeks. Two weeks in and so far very impressed. LED headlights have been superb overnight, boot has really surprised us on size and whoever thought of the blind/parcel shelf system in Czech needs a medal! Just makes sense! Car drives well and the 1.5 with DSG combo works well. Everyone has commented on how ‘premium’ it comes across. The radio/nav isn’t as user friendly as I have been used to with VAG - destination entry is a nightmare on NAV! Laura voice control doesn’t understand me at all! Radio logos are missing and can’t find a way to update them. Skoda Connect worked immediately for all but the remote locking which I had to chase the dealer to verify me. however it doesn’t ‘push notifications’ to your phone so you don’t get updates on status unless your in the app and it’s a bit slow on updating car status. Great app but needs a little work. 19’’ Alloys - look great but I really would of loved a zero cost downgrade option. They have a rubber band of a tyre on them. Quite crashy in poor London roads and speed bumps. 16s with massive tyres would be nicer in town with Kirbs but this is a personal thing! So far very happy!

No, for a higher sidewall you need to switch to smaller rims as the outer diameter of the wheel has to remain as designed (or very close to it). I bought 16" rims for winter and ride is fabulous while still great on the original 17" in summer.

Hi Lambda Sensor fits SKODA FABIA NJ5 1.2 Post Cat 2014 on Oxygen Bosch 04E906262BJ is the one I used and works fine - no warning light and no fault codes, search eBay for genuine Bosch 04E906262BJ there's plenty on there. Lambda Oxygen Sensor Socket 22mm x 100mm 1/2" Drive Cr-v Steel - this is the removal tool I used (eBay item number:252517659149) but again stacks available. Hope this helps Simon

No, it's correct. It's to set the piston inside the lifters to approx midway to allow for auto adjustment. I had the same trouble setting mine but it worked after leaving them to bleed out. Mine were not new lifters though. He is going to leave it overnight and see what happens.

Short story: 235/45R17 fits nicely on my stock suspension Octavia 1.8T. Also looks nice and aggresive on Avus Audi S3 17" rims (wider and more offset than stock 17" spyder rims), my intention of keeping the car as a sleeper just went down the drain. Before/after pics below. Long story: So after running around the whole year incognito mode, steel 15" rims 195/65R15 w/o hubcaps, enjoying myself, and faces of unsuspecting BMW drivers - I've done the famous AUM stage 1 remap to 210 hp after which the tyres can't handle the acceleration in first two gears, and made the car almost impossible to accelerate/drive when raining so I had to do something about the grip. The idea was to get ANY cheapo/trash/dank - undamaged 17" rim to fit the standard 225/45R17, I really wanted some Fe rims (again, incognito-sleeper style), but they don't exist in 57,1 5x100 dimensions (there is a 5x100 17" steel rim, but it's for some huge Renault, and I think it's only for the spare wheel, making the rim witdh in range of lol-J). There is a lot to choose in 16" region, but 205 is just too small for the power the car makes, IMHO. I even looked into 215 combinations in 16" and not only there is no performance tyre in this dimension, it's ridiculously expensive. Mind you, I'm running standard setup on all four corners - Bilstein B4 shocks, Bilstein OEM springs - no lowering, I was a click away to order the heightened springs!! I'm never going to be a style-slave, laughing while just casually cruising over speedbumps whereas dropped GTI's/Type-R's/RS's have to do the diagonal idle+clutch maneuvers I also fancied the idea of fitting larger tyres on it, 235/45R17, my flow of thought was the following, pros/cons: + more grip ofcourse + more offset/scrub radius - more initial turn-in, responsiveness on the steering wheel + more accurate speedo + keeping comfort (decent sidewall) + less wear + overall height of car increased, again more comfort + tyre "attack angle" smaller, making it easier to run over obstacles (eg. curbs, speed-bumps), again, even more comfort (you probably noticed a pattern, I'm anti-style oriented, pro-sleeper/comfort style :)) + visually I always liked seeing fat-meaty tyres in the back + only slightly more expensive than 225/45R17 - very little experience on Octavia mk1 + that tyre combo, some say it fit's others say it doesn't - much heavier - slower acceleration - possible rubbing - worse fuel consumption (it's LPG-ed and it's dirt cheap here in Croatia) Anyway, I managed to snatch a great deal on original 17" Audi S3 "Avus" Alu rims (made by Ronal, Made in Germany), bonus points: they are 6 mm more offset and 0.5J wider than standard rims 17" Spyders, making way for wider tyre! All the calculations point to no rubbing with 235/45R17 ( https://www.wheel-size.com/calc/?wheel1=195-65-15X6ET38&wheel2=235-45-17X7.5ET32&fcl=50mm&scl=50mm&wcl=30mm&sr=0mm left is my standard setup, right is Avus). But a real life test is needed, I don't want to risk spending €€€'s and putting new summer 235's just to find out they don't fit/rub! So I also managed to snatch winter tyres dirt cheap (almost free), Hankook Winter iCept 235/45R17 DOT2016 halfway worn - perfect for testing out the setup - if it fits, great, if it doesn't I spent a few hours and a few bucks demistifying it. Putting on just the rim on the car was a shock, when lifted, viusally seems like ~2 cm more than outline of car, ouch - on the inside though, quite a lot of space; the guys at the wheel shop rolled they eyes constantly We fitted the tyre rim combo, dropped the car, did a run around the lot full lock..... Purrrrfect, no rubbing, and when car is sitting on it's own it's just right, slightly out of car outline, this will be a slight pain to homologate tho. Inital impressions after a few runs: +/- wheels are a stunner, so much for my incognito/sleeper preferences, honestly, looks much more aggressive than the RS... I guess I'll deal with it. + very soft and controlled wheelhop, car doesn't want to break apart when you loose grip + comfortable + better turn-in, much less wobbly car - awfully heavy, steel rims+tyre 16.6 kg, alu rims+tyre 22.4 kg, ouch, you can see the pictures below, but I'll write up for any google search guys to stumble upon this, I find it invaluable info: - 235/45R17 Hankook Winter iCept 1/2 worn: 10.5 kg - Audi S3 Ronal Alu 17" rims: 11.7 kg - 17" above tyre+rim combo: 22.4 kg - 15" stock steel rim + 195/65R15 Pirelli P7 combo: 16.6 kg - noticeably "slower", feeling is the inital throttle response is much lazier, not so agressive as on 15"; can't really blame it, the car couldn't even accelerate before Didn't try the twisties yet, but the idea is to run around a few weeks and notice how the car behaves and if there will be no rubbing in spring get the Goodyears F1 Assy 5 in 235/45R17. @Madket

The idea is to ensure the lifter is squashed flat by the valve springs because the spring in the lifter will make setting the gap tricky. The oil in the lifters drains away when the engine is not running.

The different 1.4 TSI's mentioned here have nothing to do with the 150 ps mentioned for the YETI. No issuse. Then there never was a 'double turbo'. 1.4TSI. There were Twin Chargers / Dual Chargers, which have a Turbo & a Supercharger and were in various VW Group Vehicles globally but only in Skoda in the form of the Mk2 Fabia vRS.

Yes they all have oil in, wet and dry refers to the clutches, some are wet and some are dry. I believe the service interval is 40k

I used 1K0 941 274 C on a MY12 Octavia. Given it's a easy to see part, I'd suggest checking it for damage and the part number before buying a replacement.

Finally have My Skoda working, I had to use the add vehicle, entered my Vin, it told me I already had it in the garage but then it started to work. No digital service history. Agree the manual is worse than in the old app ( only really want that to find out what warning lights mean if I'm out), also seems I have to use the USB cable and open the app and keep it open for it to record the journey, though the info is mildly interesting but not worth the faff. For my money buy a VW data plug from eBay for a fiver and load Connect Lite which just works all on its own via bluetooth, I don't have to do a thing. If that had a digital service history I'd be happy. Connect lite shows me mileage, battery, remaining range.

Hi rover220 "problematic as the earlier 122ps ones" What problems are you referring to ? My 1.4TSi 122ps has been problem free for 8 years and 60K miles. It returns 42 MPG long term average.

Many thanks for this. I got one and it fits well. JUst a trim down the sides. A real bargain

Seems more likely it would be the front level sensor which is attached to the suspension...

Not driving it anywhere come to that seldom drive it anywhere less than 2000 miles between last 2 MOTs, breakers yard that cater quite a bit for skoda about 15 minutes from me I bought an ESP sensor of them a while back fitted and working fine unfortunately closed today but no matter will have plenty of time tomorrow. Fitting light unit easier than fitting drivers window I'm 100% certain. Price for light unit £30 or less on Ebay worst case.

A Kodiaq has a service interval of once a year only if it has been put on a Fixed Service interval of 372 days 15,000 km, otherwise on variable it is @24 months or the distance. 18,000 - 20,000 miles. Or whatever in km.

I have but it’s only possible with the Columbus. Otherwise you can add a sub via line out from the rear speaker loom.

Well as luck I suppose if there is any in this situation the key was in the boot near the tailgate so we went this route,we concluded fitting a tail light was easier than fitting a window

Just a post with a fixed problem for information. I had a non starting 2007 Skoda Octavia Estate Scout 2.0TDI PD. No engine management light, no coil light, no DPF light illuminating, all other lights illuminating such as abs, airbag etc when they should, engine just cranking over. I plugged it in through OBD using snap on solus pro. No communication with ECM under engine management. I checked other modules such as abs, airbag, they all stated no comms with ecm. There is a relay in fuse box under bonnet with 370 on it, only relay under there. This was clicking as it should. I pulled it out and put a wire across where the switched side of relay would be and problem solved so swapped relay and now fixed. I also checked the energising side of where relay would be (12v). So be warned a relay can still appear ok by clicking but not necessarily be ok. Hope this helps if anyone else has the same problem.

No, the whole lot was replaced new bump stops everything, top mounts to. I'm ruling out a direct suspension noise as when standing on my tow bar and bouncing up and down you can't here the noise. It's only when the passenger wheel goes over uneven ground or bumps in the road. The noise seems to occur when the suspension is rebounding not compressing. Both sides had the same replacement parts but bear in mind the noise was just starting before I changed the dampers and top mounts.

Brilliant, I run out of time today had to go to work but they are all left set at the moment , will see if it starts tomorrow (hoping they will all bleed in the night, also I wait 30 mins and more between doing each so fingers crossed) if it doesn't I'll start a fresh again . Thanks 👍

@SashaGrace has done something similar and added the centre + sub. Pretty sure you need to add the wiring, recode the headunit and have a dataset uploaded to enable the extra channels. At least assuming your headunit is suitable

I don't think the trim levels make a difference to the boot look part numbers. When I bought mine there were 2 available but Skoda were able to tell me the correct part number for my car. Good luck hope you get it all sorted

Well after 2 years we finally won our case through the motoring ombudsman against my Skoda dealer.Originally I had a strange rattle on startup .l took the car into the garage twice worried it was the cam chain tensioner.l was told they were not concerned only for the tensioner to fail a month later .l had to pay.for a new engine but paid under protest.l the took the garage on through the motoring ombudsman giving them as much evidence as l could with reference to me telling the garage what l thought the problem was and loads of articles,utube videos and VW technicle bullitens. After two years the Ombudsman have found in my favour and the garage reluctantly have had to refund me for the cost of the new engine.It was a long slog but l got there eventually.

..can't comment on the 170hp, but I currently have a 1.4 (150) tsi and it's a brilliant engine. Previous to this I had the 1.4 122 hp engine in an Octavia, and prior to that I had a 2.0ltr diesel Octavia. Both 1.4 engines are a "peach", plenty of power and torque, and very similar in "feel" to my previous 2.0ltr diesel. My current 1.4tsi seems to perform really well with plenty of torque and is also very quiet compared to the diesel. (Also returns over 40mpg if driven carefully, (AWD)). In short I would have no hesitation in recommending the 1.4Tsi....only problem is finding one? I struggled when I was looking.....

There is actually a small intercooler attached below the main radiator, however this is to cool the coolant which flows through the charge cooler.

I used H&R springs and some Sport Tec (I’m think that’s what they are called) from Orange Tuning in Germany. Landed in NZ the shocks were $398NZD for the set. Great set up on NZ roads, which aren’t exactly flat. iv e used this setup for last 5yrs or so and never needed/wanted to change. Even done some track days on them.

I have this problem. Had injector changed amd started juddering under boost in 2nd 3rd and so on. Deffo will be getting a new filter tomorrow and trying that 👌🏾

I wanted to add my experience on this topic as it might be useful for others. My issue started very much like the OP - cold air from driver's side and warm(ish) on the passenger side. Skoda Octavia MkIII, 2015. Here's my story: I first thought it would be the sensors like the OP and I tried to swap them (they're accessible on either side of the instrument panel --- if you have small hands!). Wasn't that. I read about the 'Mit Silikat' issue and saw my coolant looked very much like @centerback had in his pics: browny colour, with small bits in it. If I rubbed the bits between my fingers, they dissolved away so weren't hard lumps. I took it to my local garage and no issues seen through diagnostics (no fault codes, etc and the readings showed vent motors working fine). They flushed the system for me and that helped but not as should be - got luke warm air from both sides. I asked the garage to take the 'Mit Silikat' bag out of the expansion tank at the same time as flushing it - the bag did not seem ruptured but I presume the bits in the coolant and the browny colour was due to stuff getting out the bag. The heater matrix is located behind the centre console - I took the little trim off the side to expose the matrix pipes so I could keep an eye on them. The trim is held by one screw and just pulls down. I drove the car for a couple of weeks. Initially, the in pipe and out pipe of the heater matrix were both very hot (be careful!!) but vent air was luke warm only. So I guessed that the hot coolant was trickling through the matrix (i.e. partially blocked). After a long drive, the air went completely cool on all sides - checked the pipes: in hot, out cool. That confirmed blocked heater matrix for me. Had the heater matrix changed - around £320. About half that was the part plus some money for flush & coolant. Rest was labour. Thankfully the heater matrix can be taken out without needing to remove the whole instrument panel so only a couple of hours of labour (no charge for the diagnostics which was nice of them!). There is a video showing how to change the matrix here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ue7KP4U1xaQ. And if you search for the workshop manuals you should find they explain the same thing - see here: https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/461680-mk3-workshop-manual/. By the way, there are 2 different manufacturers of the heater matrix for the car (see the workshop manual). My garage were sent the wrong one first time! I did not get the expansion tank changed (should do if you want a new 'Mit Silikat' bag). I chose not to have another one of those bags - not advised but it was my choice. After that, I've had lovely hot air! Hope that helps others.

That's because Skoda improves its brand image !... We also have a "silver arrow" on the front bonnet... OK, with a feather on top of it...

@tibiking - on a FL MK2 Octavia, there are three control modules for AFS: - The AFS master is behind the climate control panel inside the car - Each headlight also has an AFS slave (black thing) and xenon ballast (silver thing) attached to it

True about the better than £5k but still cars must be designed to last a lot longer than that surely. It's a 7 Speed one

It will adapt to your driving style (singular, not plural) over a period of time. It will drive with you in mind in the control logic. Should someone else jump in then it will begin to adapt to how they drive. The topic was in the self study learning documentation for DSG transmissions, it formed part of the master technician training program that I attended some years back and is regularly quoted by the technical team in MK when folk are suffering with driveability issues especially in an instance like I quoted above where two identical vehicles are compared because they appear to drive differently. I drive mine to death, the gears hold in corners and it will rev right up until it changes even in D rather than S. The throttle is also very responsive. I drive my Parents Kodiaq and it will shift up the box as fast as possible, it feels sluggish in comparison. Same engine, same gearbox and both AWD but I drive like a nob and my dad drives like a pensioner. I'm quoting what I've come across over the years and what's been said by those who know more than I do. If it sounds difficult to believe then feel free to ignore it 🤷🏼‍♂️

It sounds like it. you need to look at the loom where it exits the door frame and passes through the rubber hose. That will tell you whether or not the wiring is split. That where mine was split. Not an easy job that bit. There are loads of videos on line to assist this. But you probably know that anyway. Good luck.

Also When I taught my daughter to drive, I advised that when pulling up at a junction, never have the front wheels turned and pointing at the junction, always leave them straight ahead until ready to turn, Why?, because if you are hit from behind you don't get pushed in to the path of oncoming traffic.

It's a habit that the US have got into and IMO not a good habit. As can be seen by the replies, it's good to always use the 'hand' brake when the car is parked. There are other situations when using or not is advised. When stationary at lights/junction is an interesting one. I have taken to holding on the foot brake. If someone decides the back of your car deserves a remodel you can either pull away to avoid getting hot or at least take your foot off the brake to allow the car to roll on to absorb some of the impact.

It compares the rotation speed of each wheel so if some tyres are loosing pressures more than others, it should trigger a warning. It can't detect when all four wheels loose pressure at the same rate but that's what your monthly/weekly checks are for

I got myself one of these. It needs to be cut to size but its really quite good. It also needs to be warmed up and flattened out before trying to fit as it comes up rolled up. What I did was flattened it out in a hot conservatory (summer) and then I fitted it dry in the boot, rammed it into the corners and used a stanley knife to trim (in-situ) just like a carpet fitter would. I then used some contact adhesive to glue on some strips of velcro (hooks side) to the underside of the mat that stick to the carpet nicely but allow it to be removed easily if required. It is a good solution for under a tenner and it stops all the boxes and shopping bags sliding around. I couldn't believe the difference it made to the noises and sliding around. Best £10 investement I ever made - it does require a bit of DIY skill though to get it lokking nice. cheers, Paul