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The fake exhaust vents were a real eyesore for me so I went on a quest to fit some quad-tip exhausts and added on a Martinek rear diffuser from SuperSkoda for good measure. And oh, finally did the rear brakes in matching gold paint as well. Pretty much done with the car now!

Outcome - Waiting for the dealership (Express Motors Ltd, Peterborough) to collect the broken Octavia from Skoda Doncaster. Finance company is rewinding the deal and in talks with the "dealer". They have stopped communicating with me completely. In the meantime I have taken delivery of my new Skoda Octavia 4x4... Ex VW lease car, FSH, '16' and more to the point... It works as it should. Looking forward to putting it to work later in the year and taking the dogs out in it. Already very impressed with the car, done 450 miles since Thursday and AVG 52.9mpg... amazing for a 4x4 Estate and beats my old Mondeo Estate 40.2mpg by a long shot 👍

Wino is correct in my opinion. The important thing with cars that have battery management systems is to replace like for like in terms of capacity and type as that is what the system is engineered to work with. I believe, from what I’ve read on the subject, you must replace an AGM with AGM, but can replace an EFB with an AGM. “Coding the battery“, as Wino as says, is actually programming or coding the car computer. And it has only 2 purposes - 1. It logs the battery change time, date, serial number and mileage in the system for warranty purposes. 2. It resets the battery management system to immediately begin relearning the state of health, charge etc of the battery, which will allow it to quickly restore functions such as Stop/Start, which it may have been disabling or restricting due to its perceived understanding of the previous battery. If you change the battery without updating the coding then the battery management system will continue to restrict functions until it has monitored enough battery events (cold starts, charge cycles etc) to be satisfied the battery can cope with operating systems such as stop/start. If you code it then those systems will be restored more quickly, if not immediately. Disclaimer - this is the internet, I post my understanding of subjects and always stand to be corrected by those more knowledgeable

The battery is an electrically dumb device. All the talk about 'coding the battery' is misleading; you actually code/educate the car about the size/type of battery being installed. The battery has nothing within it that could contain any code.

really poor build quality, software is bug ridden (auto wipers that don't work so you have to continually press a button to wipe every 2 seconds, auto high beam that dazzles all the time so you have to disable), 2019 maps (can't use google maps or waze), no smart phone integration, poor voice commands, sat nav that routes you very odd ways and often to wrong destination. Tesla looks great and is very efficient but doesn't do the basics well at all. As George has said not too many tesla chargers up this way and none at all i nNorthern Ireland where I go reasonably regularly, so in a Tesla I use the same chargers as every other EV out there. If I were doign long distance motorway drives in England Tesla would make more sense, but I don't do that very often. If I visit England I take a plane usually.

Seen on a french Skoda forum. Not mine :

yup, hopefully we wont need to utilise the warranty on anything... and now we are up to a new one and decent size, plan will be keep it young and fresh.. on the deal... with lexi we paid €18500... sticker price 23950, list price of a new one to same spec (6months newer, otherwise identical) about €27000

Its meant to....look scary and hopefully stop speeding numpties. It looks mean and means business. Live with it.

Hello un named Arona.... 1.0tsi 7speed dsg xcellence spec after swmbo drove it 38km home there is now 64km on the clock. 6months since first registered 9k less than new list price with lexi thrown in... too good to walk away!

It never fails to amaze me though, the number of people that don't see an emergency vehicle coming! @VRSfan_78 Keep up the good work. Hope you and your collegaues stay safe in these covid times.

Hi all Had a few good tips from here so thought I'd give something back. Speedo pointer light went out after flickering for a while, it's a surface mount LED so not as easy as a bulb change. If you want to attempt this you need a steady hand, good soldering skills and a good few hours spare time to fill in, easy in the curreent climate. If not I'm told you can find people to do the job for £100+ I'd recommend you practice on an old scrap board before diving in. So here goes:- 1/ drop the steering column and extend as far as poss towards you 2/ press in the lighting switch, turn a little clockwise then pull towards you, the switch will release and pull from the dash 3 / detach from the wiring, small tag presses in towards the wires, then pull off 4/ remove the surrounding grey plastic trim, easing at each end towards you with a flat screwdriver, 2 clips 5/ same other side of the column, 2 clips 6/ pull the plastic trim under the instruments towards you, attached by cloth trim to column so just move it out the way 7/ remove the 2 torqe screws from bottom of instrument panel, mag screwdriver or carefully, if they drop you may never see them again 8/ push an old cd/dvd (or any one of the wife's) between top of instruments and dash binacle, works great to release the top clips 9/ ease unit out and turn to release multi plug, lift small tag this will push plug out 10/ on desk, remove glass and front cover, matchsticks can help hold the 6 tags open 11/ ease the 2 pegs out top and 1 bottom, back cover comes off 12/ slide 2 forks under pointers where possible, I used thin cardboard (gives better support) to protect the dials as easily marked, they pop off and do fly so expect to chase them, they pull straight off, a push fit 13/ remove 2 dial backgrounds, held at the middle by two tabs, thin srewdriver underneath, carefully work them up and off 14/ press two tabs on white light guide panel and remove 15/ the black cover now unclips so you can access both sides of the board, better access for soldering I changed the original white LED's for red, giving red pointers, considered changing background to blue, but more time needed and decided not to push my luck, the pointer LED's are on full time so must usually fail first 16/ now the fun soldering bit, i found it easier to melt one side and twist slightly, the other contact will snap off, so pads need to be cleaned up for new LED, used a match to hold them in place then heated to fuse each side, difficult to get flat and level but will do the job, make sure you fit them right way round, therwise don't work, corner notch is the clue, note before you work on them 17/ reverse order to rebuild, I connected panel to car first and checked all ok Only prob i have now is fuel is reading empty! might reset itself Hope the photos help, will update where needed soon and pic of panel at night Regards R

Thanks for the replies. Its been stationary for several days, so have emailed superskoda and gls. If Gls come back and say that it is just delayed but no issue then thats no problem and understandable. Hopefully they reply 🤞., if they don't reply and it doesn't move for another week ill have to go to paypal

hi, yes anecdotally superskoda deliveries can become a bit.. protracted. also, there is the complications of covud and the umpact that is having on international shipping, and... of course the big dirty B word in terms of import duties and other paperwork type problems..

After so many years I came across the same problem with my daughter's YETI. So I decided to fix it as I realized that all these advices about using lubricants simply did not work. Finally I found that the problem is a small gear which rotates around a plastic stud . The gear is too tight around the stud thus preventing the sliders to move freely. Hence the locking in place of the door is not complete and falls back after hitting a bump on the street. I thing the video I tried to make is self explanatory: https://youtu.be/6SLHBXsyNhU

As Kenny R states, Press the A, Auto button, text to the parking (hand) brake button ON, and remember if all else fails, read the manual.

If I'm doing a stab in the dark, I'd say it's going to be a roller/pulley/tensioner. Did they say were replacing a full kit? Is it worse if you start the engine from cold and stick the headlights on (basically load up the alternator)?

Chain.

Oil temp sensor is (usually) combined with oil level sensor in the sump. The temperature may just be lagging behind water temp more than usual due to cold ambient, and if you run for a bit longer it'll start showing? Minimum is 50°C to be shown, I believe. May not be enabled/displayed if the car is on fixed annual servicing though?

Here's my latest video from today. Following this I went out with the Mrs to give her some snow driving training in her Yaris which is on Goodyear Ultragrip 9 tyres. It was awesome in the snow. https://youtu.be/nu1Ek6jP1-8

All that after only 14000 miles??? You should stop making handbrake turns... Here is a good discussion about this kind of practice

Ok checked both sides of the fuse....

They were the correct discs and pads... thanks again @D402 No specialist tools needed, but even with the parking brake off it needs to be electronically relaxed for winding in. Forcing it will cause damage. My friend used a high end Bosch diag unit, but obviously Carista would be better for a one off. I know it’s only 14k miles total and not being used as much recently, but I'm still out twice a week for city driving. Inside of the discs were quite bad and pads were almost gone:

I think it may be like this: Skoda Workshop Manuals > Octavia Mk2 > Vehicle electrics > Electrical System > Wiring > Fuse holder and relay carrier > Removing and installing the E-box (relay and fuse carrier in the engine compartment) > Vehicles up to MY 05 (workshop-manuals.com) (first image).

It's not something I've seen personally here in Lancashire or via local police social media, but I'd imagine it should be a short conversation for those with a valid reason. I'd expect it to be targeting those who aren't making essential journeys rather than verifying those commuting don't have an alternative.

0AQ, 0AR, or 0AS. See part numbers etc here (view on a non-phone screen to be sure of seeing all the info columns.) suspension; shock absorber (spring cyl.) - Fabia(FAB) [EUROPA 2012 year] (7zap.com) I seem to remember that the actual bar diameter is a couple of mm bigger than the numbers shown corresponding to the three PR codes 0Ax. There's some squish of the rubber when fitting. View on a non-phone screen to be sure of seeing all the info columns.

There is a newer version 0478. Amongst the claimed fixes are: You can either update it yourself if you ask @pab567 nicely for a link or try and get a dealer to perform the update (TPI 2049459/10).

Yeah they are... Its a slightly narrower one at 775mm wide as its next to the archway to our utility room so we didn't want to block anything. Plus SWMBO preferred the layout of it so who was I to argue. Still huge compared to what we used to have though.

Polybushes for ARB retention are a waste of money, it doesn't matter if the ARB moves a bit more as long as it stays put, that's all the bushes are for.

Agree with you there... They drive really nicely and the interior is a good place to be as its comfy, well laid out with good access and visibility. I was hoping shed go for it as we might end up with her cast off eventually and it would be a cracking car for my daughter in a few years. Overall I think the Arona is a much better car than the Jazz but it wasn't to be... And it sounds like you got a cracking deal as well!

Yep, that's what i did. Transcend MicroSD in an adaptor, formatted as exFAT. Funnily enough in the process of dicking about with this I realised my older phone *does* support Android Auto, so I'll probably use that going forward! Lacks the dashboard display directions which is a shame, but Google Maps is otherwise pretty good.

Some might want VW Group to guarantee the factory engine management that can be trusted in each and every vehicle with a 1.5 TSI before they void the manufacturers warranty by remapping. http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/474324-15-tsi-remap http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/471197-15-tsi-evo-remap http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/477933-15-tsi-remaptuning-box http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/456074-is-the-wltp-15tsi-worse-than-the-pre-wltp-15tsi

Re: battery encoding. A lot of modern car batteries do need to be encoded in due to the methodology of charging the battery. If you replace the battery without coding the new one in, the car will get confused and probably throw an erroneous error or two. It also means that whilst the battery will charge, it will do so at a lower amperage and will treat the replacement battery as an electrically dumb device. It means stuff like stop/start may not work and extra high loads on the battery such as electric seats may not work as intended.

I took your advice and purchased a used item from eBay. There was only one on there as my switch has two adjustment wheels as well as the front and back fog lights. It arrived today and now everything works as it should. Many thanks.

Unfortunately it was all a bit Heath Robinson. I lined the mudflaps up on the car and used a pencil to mark where the leading edge of the running boards met the back of the mudflaps. I then used a soldering iron to pierce through the mudflap and simply followed the pencil line. A little messy but the plastic melted in such away that the edges were smooth and rounded (matching the contour of the soldering iron) so it didn't look too bad in the end. I've since invested in a Dremel which came with a large range of cutting attachments, which if in the same position again I'd probably choose over my botch!

Two quick presses will unlock all the doors.

Suggestion: NEW GENUINE SEAT IBIZA CORDOBA 6L SKODA FABIA 1.9TDI ASZ OUTER CV GAITER BOOT | eBay May be out of date with respect to the use by date, possibly, packaging not shown. I'd buy it and use it at that price even if it was a few years out.

Thermoplastic is what you want (Hytrel, polyester elastomer). The cheap rubber ones are terrible. I fitted Febi branded ones to mine. I use this crimper which you use with a 1/4'' drive socket ratchet... https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CV-BOOT-CLAMP-PLIERS-CRIMPING-TOOL-3-8-TORQUE-SETTINGS-FOR-SKODA-OPEL-FORD/133392863675?hash=item1f0ed591bb:g:sO8AAOSwg6VeoBWV

Just to add to what the others have said, Remove whole driveshaft and do it on a bench, the genuine ones are thicker and stronger BUT so are the metal clips that hold them at both ends. You are supposed to use a special tool to crimp them tight. I had to borrow a tool (about 2 feet long) there's no way you can squeeze them tight with pliers or similar!

And don't forget Trading Standards too. If they get too many complaints about the company they will take action.

I can confirm the Revo Stage1 is amazing! JB4 was good, but Revo is a different league. I can't believe what a simple software update can do with these engines, that's how those DNUA should come from the factory:) Next step is TVS Stage 2+ for the box. Thanks @newbie69 for all the advises and courage to be the first and share your experience!

hello all. i joined here as i read this post about techniclutch and wanted to reply and also give my story and a few pointers. this company are obviously crooks, the buy in refanufactured clutches from abroad, these are worn out clutches and plates where they skim the heads of the plates, put bew springs in the disks, they give the plate a clean up and then sell it to you. you then either realise its rubbish before fitting if your lucky or you pay someone to fit an item that fails far quicker than it should if you are no so lucky and then need to pay to have it done all again. They depend on wearing you down with lies and nonsense and it works, most just give up vow to never buy from them again then forget about it. but for the good of everyone you must follow through and get your money back and you will but you wont get it from them. you will get it the legal route. heres my story first record on your phone every conversation you have with them. this is evidence, this is allowed if you need to take it as far as the small claims court you can use extracts from this to prove your case. dates etc while talking to them. second if you can never accept the package from them and return to sender, i did this i purchased then read all the reviews and cancelled the following day. they claimed some spurrious nonsense that they would need to get in touch with the warehouse or some such thing. i phoned 2 days later confirming my cancellation but the said it had allready been posted. but it had not been posted, because 4 days later i recieved parcelforce tracking for the item. so they had 6 days to not send the item so ask yourself why they would still send the item ? i wil tell you why, because once you had recieved it they would claim that you changed it, you tampered with it, that it wasinst same item you sent back. i twigged this was what they were up to hence sending item 6 days after i cancelled. so if you cancel it and they send it, do not accept it at the door and the postal company will return to sender, that puts a stop to that part of the scam. then the fub begins, you phone up, you have proof you didint recieve or returned to sender or looked in the box say it was junk and sent back. so after about 8 phome calls or so you will start to realise that they have no intention of paying you back and will start to make up nnsense to not pay you. this is why you must absolutely record every call you have with them. your options now are. section 70 - if you paid by credit card you can make a section 70 claim with your credit card company, include the fact you have recorded phone calls, the tracking number of them sending it and you sending back etc. paypall chargeback - if you bought via there ebay store do a charge back as quick as you can. dont sit arguing and phoning them go straight for the charge back. the sooner the better. make sure you have proof of posting back as ebay will ask for this. letter before action - next if you didint pay by credit card or you are paypal time lapsed etc or you paid debit card. you will now need to send a letter before action. moneysaving supermarket etc have details of doing this also citizen advice. you might have to revert to here even if you paid by credit card because techniclutch have set themselves up to circumvent the credit card chargeback, there is a clause which is actually going through parliment to stop that a credit card can claim the transaction is not between them and the retailer because they use a third party processor ie like sage pay and the credit company will sometimes but not allways refuse the chargeback because of this. take a guess who techniclutch use for processing their cards even though they charge a lot more than a standard company like rbs or sum up or lloyds etc. yup they use sage pay as they attempt to prevent charge backs. So set out a letter before action, send it proof of delivery not signed for, likely they will just not sign for it as they probably get loads and know the drill. so go to the post office and send it proof of delivery not signed for. also send a copy to their email. and keep a copy for yourself. if this still dont get them to give you your money back next its a small claims dont online, its simple its cheap its effective. they will have 0 days to pay you or you apply t take them to small claims court. its better if the item + costs allowed are over £600 in total because if they dont pay you can hire a high court balliff to collect. if under and they refuse to pay you need to get a ccj against them they then have time to pay you before its marked against them. So hope that helps some of you that are robbed by this company. remember to report them to companies house, remember to report them to ebay, post about them on trustpilot and come to forums like this.and blackpool police eventually some authority is going to take notice and close this company down. a wee msg to any rogue trader tv programs wont do any harm either. they have made an enemy with me, make sure they make one with you as well. i got my money back after 10 weeks with a credit card chargeback. i refused the item and had it returned to sender. they tried to claim on the phone that me returning to sender ie not accepting the parcel and it being returned untouched and not in my ownership at any point. was a breach of contract, have you ever heard of such lying nonsense. it was at this point i realised i needed to stop trying with them and go the route that didint involve asking them for it back. remember record all phone conversations with them. byt what is really needed is for many of the victims of their scams to get together and report them as a group. i hardly think blackpool fraud squad could ignore 50 independent phone calls to them in a week about this company. or the same to companies house or rogue traders etc. best wishes all. im looking at buying a skoda

Saw this, made me happy how good it looks. Didn't care about the words. Had to share. Wife wouldn't care. Came to forums, found similar post. 😂 https://www.bbc.com/news/uk-england-cumbria-55724754

Following on from the 110,000miles service our Citigo ASG has now just had its 120,000mile service!!! We've tried to share our servicing experience and decided to continue with using our local hammers garage. As this was an oil service it went absolutely fine with no issues engine wise - the only issue we had noted was sticking rear brakes and on inspection and cleaning it was advised that these would need changing. So the servicing issues we have experienced in the 120k: 1- Skoda garages do not really change spark plugs when they say they do - most probably as it will cost them to replace the coil packs which appear an issue to remove 2- Rear brake shoes replaced Warranty claims 1 - radio signal lost because of the antenna failure (x2) 2 - headlight lost adjustment 3 - Seat base height adjustment lever stopped working Honestly for what was essentially a £10k citigo new they are built very well and able to take on high mileage without any issues (touch wood) - weve decided to run our until it is uneconomical to repair so maybe some more updates in the future. Cheers

I recently retrofitted a virtual cockpit but as it was faulty, I ended up switching instrument clusters a few times which ultimately meant the odometer was incorrect. Rather than use one of the few services to increase the mileage, I purchased the required tool to correct the odometer myself. Given it worked perfectly on both my original and replacement cluster, I'm now offering a mileage increase service for MQB based Audi, Seat, Skoda and Volkswagen (VW) instrument clusters aka virtual cluster, virtual cockpit, VC, active info display, AiD, etc. To my knowledge, most MQB clusters cannot have their mileage adjusted via the EEPROM. To get around this, the tool simulates a moving vehicle which means I can add up to ~4000 miles per 24 hours on the odometer. While I appreciate this is probably quite a niche market, I'm offering my services as this can be a sticking point when purchasing used clusters. The way this will work is: - You send your instrument cluster to me - I'll increase the odometer to the requested amount - If you'd like, I can send a daily picture to show progress - Once complete, it'll be returned in your packaging I'm not sure how to price this so for now I'll say £50 will cover: - insured return postage (UK mainland only) - up to 20000 miles adding (5 days) FAQ: - This tool CANNOT be used to decrease the odometer, please don't contact me regarding this - If you need more than 20000 miles adding, please contact me to discuss pricing - I do not offer component protection or immobiliser services, these require ODIS with an online connection which I don't have - Some clusters may increase at a lower rate, if this is the case I'll contact you with a revised completion time - If for any reason I cannot increase the mileage, I'll return the cluster and give a refund minus the postage cost Regarding the last point, if I come across a cluster I cannot increase the mileage on, I'll add it's part number below and no longer accept requests for that cluster.

Do hope that they have got the intermittent Infotainment faults fixed before it was rolled out to the professionals!!

So guys, it was entirely paint transfer, except for a tiny spot where I think the collision happened. Must have been something like a scooter that fell on it because he made a line that went over the back door handle and continue but did not touch the mirror. I tried removing most of it using WD40 and a microfiber towel, that didn't work very well, I manage to remove most of it by rubbing a bit of it with either a nail or rubbing a bit harder with the cloth. After this, there were fine lines that were probably slightly deeper, I could remove them using a magic sponge eraser. Now you can barely see anything except at the point of impact where it is slightly darker for some reason. I have ordered some Turtle Wax scratch repair and will apply it over. But the thing I am the most relieved about is that it was definitely not intentional, I had a really hard couple of weeks at work, working from home since March. I feel alot better that this was just an accident.

Posties with shoulder bags & delivery people coming down our drive between two cars have been responsible for a few light scratches on our cars. We now leave as much space between them as possible. I've widened the driveway by one flagstone on either side for exactly this reason.

Sounds more like there is a problem with the car that is affecting the battery? Thanks, AG Falco

If you haven't suffered any financial loss then you aren't entitled to any compensation for the loss that you haven't had - to claim otherwise could be taken as fraud. When have any lawyers been trustworthy?

If it's grease then ok, I thought it might be sulphate corrosion from battery fumes.