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If they'd just driven a lap of the car park all those warnings would've gone out on their own, without all the faff.

Any fault in the park aid system would stop it working "imo" Need to get that sensor replaced.

Not possible as yet to display this way but could come with firmware updates. I’d also like it especially when driving more enthusiastically.

The Best example of the Worst of New Tech is demonstrated with the VW ID3. As reviewed by many Journalists. Lane Assist being the most common complaint. I drive right hand drive cars and being right handed have a problem using touch screens in the middle of the car and also at a stretch. I would give my right hand to ambidextrous.

http://www.autocar.co.uk/car-news/new-cars/volkswagen-id-4-sale-uk-£37800

Great advice. Systems just need to reset themselves and all will be well.

Blacked out all the badges and emblems today.

This. Or pull the horn fuse out. That's what I did. It flagged a single horn fault on vcds (which doesn't matter of course!)

If your car is over ten years old then simply replace all the standard shocks with new ones, yours will be tired and that makes for a poor ride.

its not sovmuch the power as it is the torque to get out of trouble if thats the safest escape route. staged licensing makes sense. cutting peoples power when it may be needed is dangerous, so if thats the route being chosen there needs to be an option for a temporary manual override for emergency use - have it set you only get a max 5 overrides per 2000km driven

I'm not sure bhp has a lot to do with it. I really don't feel safe in cars or bikes with low hp. If you consider the safety cross when driving, low power or in this case auto speed restriction, removes one direction of travel from me to esacape danger. I have absolutely accelerated out of danger and having a more powerful car has enabled me to do that. However, power is nothing without control, I'd support a motorcycle like license. i.e. you must be qualified to drive a car of a certain power (or power to weight to be pendantic). I'm sure many people can drive in a hideously unsafe way with 60hp and tbh I think the vast majority of stupid driving I've seen has been done in cars/vans of low to average performance.

Quick update on the car, its being prepped for primer then paint. Bumpers are in primer already. So long as they don't get an urgent insurance repair in it will be done for the end of Feb.

Can't wait to see pictures!

So, on rechecking with the Tow Bar company, they were initially confident but digging deeper have established that, unless tow bar preparation was done during the build, it is not an easy job to install an after market tow bar. After going back to the dealer I bought the car from, we agreed on 3 options. Return the car, swap the car for one with either a tow bar or at least the preparation or they fit the tow bar at cost. They would do any of the 3, so in the end we plumped for option no. 3. They would fit the tow-bar. This included them picking up the car from my house some 134 miles away, leaving a courtesy car for 2 days, and then dropping the car back when completed. The price - £830 pounds - which is allegedly is below their cost price with no labour charge. Still out of pocket compered to after market, but at least the benefit of a dealer completed warranty. Why or Why has Skoda made it this difficult and expensive to get a simple job of a tow-bar fitted! Thanks to everyone for their comments / feedback. Invaluable in this instance.

Our local Kwik Fit are very knowledgeable and when my free services have been used at the Skoda dealer I will definitely be putting my business there and saving money, something that any Scottish person would understand and appreciate.

Welcome. You do not say the cars age or mileage. There is no advantage of going to a Skoda Main Dealer over a VW Group Independent that will do the work and not just charge for doing it even if they do not. Personally i would not put my car to Kwik Fit even if they were paying me £100 to let them do the service.

Have a read of this thread and you'll save the £30 as mentioned above.

Unless you get an error on the dash too or some other weird behaviour don't worry too much. OBDEleven will occasionally show "faults" that are not real, but rahter a temporary status of the module that sends out a false alarm.

I've still got problems with the Matrix LED lights! I think someone on another post said that Skoda we're still working on that for driving on the left hand side ... 😞

Some people change many rubber mounts for better quality stuff, such as Powerflex. There is supposedly ONE mount they recommend not to swap unless off road/tracking. Too harsh, I think. I believe it is one of the engine mounts. Worn drop links are often replaced with Meyle heavy duty (HD) ones and they carry a four year warranty. On ebay, they are cheaper then the main dealers normal ones, too!

Too late it is at the garage now!

As I posted previously, the car was in for the update and everything seems to be fixed apart from the KPH/MPH, customer services contacted me to say they were still working on a solution for that and they would contact the garage when it's available.

My local Skoda Service Centre started at £600 for cambelt and water pump or £500 for just cambelt then offered to reduce by £50 if I arranged it by end of January. I pushed them on this a bit and they then agreed to £450 for cambelt and water pump. Seems a good price to me but not sure how you check to make sure they have actually done both when I get it back!

Finally a call back but not much use.... They said the gps coordinates were a factory decision to make the satnavs better! No way to change to show a correct 'real world' address. No info yet on how to update maps They said to try sending a destination from the Connect App to the car - The App showed a proper address so hit send to vehicle..... and no destination arrived. The Amundsen has no option to display online destinations. Has anyone else got that working? The VW forums seemed to indicate that using the ESim would not allow you to send destinations from the app - you had to connnect your car to a wifi hotspot! This seems a complete backward step. Not impressed at all and sorry at this point of time to have bought a new Skoda. I expected more.

Damn, that's unlucky!

I would try what Sepulchrave suggested as they seem very informative ob this subject but I did want to mention... You state you have had "No service" From around 29K to 105K, if you mean to the gearbox, fine but if you mean to the car as a whole, you are seriously missing very important oil changes, at every 10K. Now you may well be doing them but if not, you are asking for long term trouble and big expense! These cars are very susceptible to the use of wrong grade oil or no oil changes. They need to be done religiously, along with the oil filter. Many other things should be done too but missing an oil change is asking for trouble!

@StuH78, can please describe in more detail what you actually did with your panoramic roof in spring last year? I mean did you removed panoramic roof entirely from the car and opened/cleaned joints with new sealant or butyl tape? Or did you added glue, when panoramic roof was attached to the car? My Captain Tollys Cure fix still works, but I´m preparing myself to tear down.

Exactly Some people reported that update takes more that one our. But interface is awful. While update you cant understand is it in process or not. You just need to keep head unit on for some time (you can continue using car). And after some time you'll se new map version in system info. At least that's how it works for us in Russia. But we don't have Skoda Connect. Maybe if you have it, update from flash drive is disabled (but I'm pretty sure that it's not).

I agree. Power has let me overtake potential trouble, but never gotten me out of trouble... Instead, awareness and good riding have always kept me from getting into it in the first place. The only times I've had actual trouble was when I've been stationary and no amount of power would have helped. I try to apply the same to my driving, but there's only so much you can do with a car.

Switching between D&S whilst moving is harmless: it's a software change to make the gearbox far more responsive to throttle commands making it hold lower gears so that engine stays at higher revs (in the peak power band). As for lifetime/wear: yes but probably only because higher revs causes more stress on components, but no different from any manual gearbox. The gearbox is like a manual 7-speed gearbox with an automated dual clutch/gear selector - the Mechatronic unit. So the gears will stay preengaged as you flick between 1 and R as each engages with alternate clutches. But you should wait until you're stationary before engaging, though moving to N as you're stopping is fine.

All systems ideally should have a bias towards the front to retain the stereo image. I have the Canton system in my car and the rears do very little work. If you look at ICE installs of old (max power days) most did away with the rear speakers and just had two upfront and a sub speaker in the boot. I find car systems are hit and miss. I had a 2012 Focus Titanium with the Sony upgrade pack. Sounded fantastic and that was without a sub. Then got a new 2015 Focus ST3 with the Sony pack and sub. Sounded awful.

You might want to start by posting an autoscan, the coding will depend what modules are fitted

@nikvuksa - I did not, yet. Might change it with new if I keep the car when the warranty finishes. Yes, its terrible - like something is totally not right...

I have had multiple cars with DSG, and now have the 1 litre +DSG in one car (not a Fabia). Your driving is very much like mine was (in outer London suburbs during rush hour, prior to lockdown) Normally just left it in D, once I did look at the gear indicator and counted and realised it did about 120 gear changes during each journey due to traffic lights. There were a couple of 3 way and 4 way lights where I would put it into N (as I knew it would be about 80-100 seconds before lights went green) Never needed S mode in busy rush hour traffic (and London commuters are heavy footed away from lights). I only ever use S mode on country roads if I need to overtake as it gives quicker acceleration. (Just flick gearstick back to change between D and S) You can move gearstick to side and use manual mode, but having tried it, never bothered again Fuel consumption varies due to traffic, I used to get about 42-43mpg typically during rush hour, but same route off peak would get 50-53mpg. On one occasion was accident, took twice as long and only got 34mpg. Out in the country on open roads can easily get 52+ mpg, although does fall a bit if you do 75+mph I normally use premium unleaded as the 1.0 tsi pulls better at low revs with it, the mpg seems to be about 10-13% better with it (so if extra price is less than 10% more, then you save overall). I leave a/c on all year, as the dryer helps with clearing screen even when heating on.

See if these links help. https://eshop.skoda-auto.cz/en_CZ/alloy-wheel-antia-16-for-fabia-iii-rapid/p/5JA071496C+FL8 http://www.oemepc.com/skoda/part_single/catalog/sk/markt/CZ/modell/FAB/year/2016/drive_standart/797/hg_ug/601/subcategory/601060/part_id/2543668/lang/e The OEM part number is cast into the back of the alloy rim. It will look something like 5JA071496C FL8 The last three digits is the colour code. So in the example above, FL8 is the colour code. FL8 is metallic black. All the possible colour codes might be cast into the back of the alloy rim. This is so that the manufacturer only has to make one casting.

For the Fabia MK2 1.4TDi, the standard front springs have OEM part number 6Q0411105AK and the standard rear springs have OEM part number 6Q0511115K Standard Front Springs with OEM part number 6Q0411105AK Kilen 23108 Lesjofors 4085709 Standard Rear Springs with OEM part number 6Q0511115K Kilen 63106 Lesjofors 4285707 These two makes are available on ebay for about £20 each. There are other big name brands, but often they will be about £30 each. Kilen and Lesjofors are actually the same springs, just different brand names. They are both made in the same factory in Sweden.

The Greenline models have sports suspension. This is 15mm lower than standard and makes for a harder ride. You could change the springs to standard and keep the shock absorbers that are on the car, or change to both standard springs and shock absorbers. What OEM part numbers do your front and rear springs have? Or attach a photo of your car's build codes and someone could look the OEM part numbers up. Choice of tyre size makes a big difference to ride comfort. What size tyres have you got fitted? If you have 15" tyres, then changing down to 14" will make a big difference. If you are have 16" tyres, then changing down to 14" or 15" will make a big difference. What tyre pressures are you using? According to wheel-size.com the Fabia MK2 1.4TDi was fitted with 165/70R14 or 185/60R14 tyres as standard. Skoda Fabia 2008 1.4TDI – Generation: Mk2 5J [2007 .. 2014] [EUDM] – Power: 79 hp | 59 kW | 80 PS – Engine: BNV, I4, Diesel – Center Bore: 57.1 mm – Wheel Fasteners: Lug bolts – Thread Size: M14 x 1.5 – Trim Production: [2007 .. 2010] Tire Rim PCD 165/70R14 85T 5Jx14 ET35 5x100 2.2 / 2.1 185/60R14 82T 6Jx14 ET37 5x100 2.2 / 2.1 185/55R15 82T 6Jx15 ET43 5x100 2.1 195/55R15 85H 6Jx15 ET43 5x100 2.1 195/50R15 82H 6Jx15 ET43 5x100 2 / 2.1 205/45R16 83V 6.5Jx16 ET43 5x100 2 / 2.1 https://www.wheel-size.com/size/skoda/fabia/2008/

Agreed - if there isnt enough legroom in the superb - then you will need to buy a Van / Minibus! I think only the Audi A8 has more.

@Diljit Sorry, i do not think anyone is annoyed. I put in the report just because you already had a thread running with the Sump Plug being the subject. It is far easier to answer a question when the previous answers you got are in the same thread and not spit between 2.

So let me get this straight......... Your saying if we don't spend £200 + on R8 coil packs our engines will need replacing ?

I sold my Citigo last year -I just got in touch with my local dealership and asked them to print out the service history for me

Hi mate recommend the NGK SPARK PLUG BKR7EIX if you also want to upgrade the coil packs you can get an Audi R8 coil pack conversion kit this allows you to use the plugs without the need for gapping them 👍

Thank you, very helpful as always

You're looking at the auxiliary belt. Timing belts and chains are always under covers, oil-tight covers in the case of chains.

However, I'm beginning to find that Briskoda is clearly the lord of internet forum help when compared to Ford... All I can find in relation to technical knowledge is "wil dese weels fit mi fiester anyone no" sort of crap.

this is going to be soooo cool

@Eddie-NL knows his stuff. I'd call him a master tech when it comes to electronic modules. Good result for you someone was able to check what they should of done in the first place!

Just thought I would update this topic and and close it, so the car went back to main dealer at Pullman Skoda, turns out the lad who fitted the clock spring was off and they had a master tech look at it wherever one of those is??😉 Turns out it hdnt been coded at all and upon pick up everything is working again, no charge neither!!😁😁😁 Hurray for the master tech, in all seriousness though, glad it's sorted, thanks again for all input

I believe "almost" is a very good word.