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It's no problem. They are sorting me with a replacement until they can sort it. I'm told it will be something of Octavia or bigger so it will be nice to drive something else! I don't mind as long as it comes back sorted, and if my car is used as a test to get everyone of the others sorted, then so be it.

I suspect the SE spec has more equipment than your 11 year old Fabia, and SEL will have even more. But you won’t really miss what you have never had. If you keep your car to 11 years old, then another way of looking at it, is that the extra equipment is more to break down, and possibly needing costly repair in few years time. I am guessing the 1 litre is the 115 engine, if it is, I suspect you will find it is much better than you expect. More than sufficient for the type of driving you indicate. If it was me, get the 1 year old car

Stools, chairs, rolling seats... you all remind me I forgot to do the roof!

Decided to keep the YETI and give it a birthday. Alloy refurb, paint detail and protection. 🥳

I've spent the whole evening repairing the broken photobucket links through the whole thread, so ALL of the pics are now visible to all....

Hello everyone Having neglected the Rapid a bit during lockdown (and almost traded it in for a Seat Leon estate a month ago), I’ve instead been showing the car a bit of love, including cleaning it for the first time in ages and investing in a few new bits: Up first is this handy boot divider. Now, this only works if you have the false boot floor. The item in question is actually a genuine VW part for a Golf Estate (with false boot floor), but also fits the Rapid (as long as you have the false boot floor). It will not clip on to the regular boot floor (the one directly above the spare wheel), it’s too thin. Next up, I replaced the silver trim piece I had on the boot lid. This is an aftermarket part that has been cut specifically for the Rapid Spaceback boot lid: My previous one, after five years, lost its adhesion and was starting to look dull, so time for a fresh one. Finally, I fitted a new set of Heko wind deflectors (again, replacing a set that had started to break after five+ years of use and abuse). Next job is to remove the number plates (which are stuck on with many sticky pads) and replace them with a set of pressed metal plates. Also looking at adding a rear-facing dash cam, but need to do more research to find a suitable power cable to tap into. If anyone has any advice on that, I would appreciate it. As always, happy to answer any questions. Thanks Chris

You should be seeing at least 30MPG People issues: If you've done a full service, it might be worth checking your MAF, see when it was last changed, including fuel filter, etc.

As you say, not to everyone's taste.... but surely rear brake lights and indicators are fitted to let other drivers know what you are doing, so why make them more difficult to see???? Or don't you use indicators and brakes???

I gave The Big Red Bus a serious wash and polish today. What a gorgeous day! Now, it takes me about ten minutes to stand up straight from a sitting position.

My current favourite pic of the car

This is my wife's competition entry called: Better the devil you know!

I swapped out my Amundsen screen for a Columbus one and I took some photos along the way, I hope this helps somebody. I suppose this guide is applicable to anyone wishing to remove the screen in their MK3 Octavia. No coding is required and there's no component protection on the screen. Difficulty: 1/5 Time: 30 minutes (Tops) Tools required: Radio removal keys, Electrical snips/side cutters or something sharp - you need to cut a locating plug off one of the connectors. Part(s): MIB2 Columbus Screen (5E0919606) Apparently the MIB2.5 5E0919605M will also fit, but the APP button will not work. I picked up my Columbus screen for £160. You may have to wait and keep searching for the part at a price you like. Step 1 - Find car LCD screen Step 2 - Insert radio keys. Right top and bottom keys fit this way round. You need 4 keys to remove the LCD screen. The notches on the keys need to face inwards towards the screen. You could remove the cover protecting the proximity sensors at the base of the screen but it's not necessary. Get something behind it and pop it off if you're that way inclined. Step 3 - Left top and bottom removal keys fit this way round. Step 4 - Push all 4 keys into the locating holes around the facia, Don't be rough, they don't require much force. Step 5 - Pull back on the keys (requires little/no force) and the screen will fall out. There are two connectors on the back of the screen, remove them both. Your screen is now free and you can now put your Amundsen LCD on eBay. Step 6 - Chop the circled locating block off the blue plug. Step 7 - Your blue plug should now look like this Step 8 - Put the connectors back in the only place they'll fit and push the new screen in. Job done. You're done! I hope this helps someone!

Collection day has finally come around and I’m super stoked to be a Superb owner at last! I only grabbed a couple of pics as I was hoping it would be light and dry when I got home to take more but it was neither. Here it is on the forecourt It’s a MY2020 Facelift Superb SportLine Plus 2.0 TDI 190 DSG with the following options Exclusive Dragon Green paint Supernova wheels Virtual Pedal Reverse cam with washer Spare wheel Virtual Cockpit All of which put the list price at pennies under £40,000 which is nuts considering what I paid and the paltry 6560 miles it had when I collected it this morning. The 260 mile trip home was fabulous and I look forward to a much quieter build thread compared to my Octy as it has so much spec there is little to do, but I’ll be sorting a few things for sure! Badges are a start and some cool lighting mods too. More soon

I had the pleasure of driving this at the weekend! (ps. No comments from police haters please - it's a job and someone has to do it. Remember this forum is just about the cars so keep it friendly please )

I would avoid a 2018 1.5 as others have said, those early 1.5s had some problems. If the SEL has 18 inch wheels, you will find the tyres are a rarer (and thus expensive) size, and potentially front pair may be fairly worn. All three of them have done 5-7k miles per year, so should be on fixed servicing, so check the service record is consistent and nothing is missed. May as well request a service is done (as part of the sales deal) if one is due in next few weeks. You mentioned a few hills in your initial post, so seriously consider putting a note in your calendar for August to get some seasonal tyres, as the factory fit modern summer tyres are rubbish in cold weather and cold rain (and useless in snow). Don’t leave it until autumn as price jumps.

Found the problem. Oxidation killed CAN gateway power supply cable behind/below battery bracket. Close to firewall. I will leave this here and hope that this could help someone in future

Aa just paid my £20 for card renewal! But then have had loads of electricity at no cost and will continue to wherever possible.

Brill thank you mate. I have everything Maxton do minus the side skirts. It freaks me out as this will be my forever ish car haha. Just sills, and water and salt scare me. I keep looking. Does the kit come with self tappers? I guess i need to provide the double sided tape? Or Tiger seal? If that would work.

Surely your door drain is blocked and the door is filling up with water, have you checked it's clear?

Evening mate, I was the same but bit the bullet and installed with self tappers, but also used a high strength contact adhesive to bond to the sill but also around the screws so that it sealed up the hole. My one big piece of advice if you have access to a lifter definitely use, it makes life easier. I fitted with car half up a curb and jack fully extended to get right under the car. And just take your time if you do it 👍

When a customer contacts a dealer and makes a booking a Diss report should be created detailing the complaint. Once this is created a BA ID number is assigned . This report can then be completed if the complaint is rectified and is recorded as a quality report. The dealership can also submit a technical support request using the generated BA ID and tech support can escalate the same report to the factory. The Diss report also has other uses as well. It is a requirement for any warranty claims as when a diagnostic session is ended and sent online it is allocated to the BA ID

Mine was supplied and fitted through Witter.

It really doesn't matter where you blank it, it's just that where I mentioned, at the front of the block, its very accessible. The rest of the EGR pipework is at the back of the engine & difficult to access.

Having the EGR mapped out means it will be closed 100% of the time. But when EGR's start to malfunction they often don't physically close fully & allow some EGR gas/ soot past. Fitting a blanking plate will be a fool proof way to stop any EGR gas/ soot entering the inlet via the EGR. I wouldn't want the DPF to get gutted, too much risk of failing the MOT. The DPF will function fine with the EGR removed.

Not much point me washing ours at the moment because we have builders knocking 10 bells of $$$$ out of the house across the road. As a result there's dust & mud all over the shop & in the air from 8am till 4pm. I also hear we are getting some sand from Saudi with our weather so I'll wait for a bit before I get the pressure washer out. On the plus side I have invested in dual action polisher for the cars. Nothing too expensive but it will save my aching joints. When all the dust settles (literally) I will have a go at a bit of light cutting & buffing to remove some swirls in the paint on my car which, being black, shows every mark known to man.

The video shows **** all for me aside from the timer countdown, the window looks like one for an audio clip but it is silent. Editted. Video by Undertheradar, hovering mouse over it it reveals to be an audio clip, maybe if I could turn the volume up enough it would sound like a brilliant shiny finish

My sat Nav seems to work 🤷🏼‍♂️ I put in the street name 1st pic and it comes up fine. I put in The post code for the 2nd pic and it comes up fine too. No off road coordinates are being shown.

I had Gtechniq Crystal Serum with EXO professionally applied to my new car before I collected it from the dealer. It's black, easy to keep clean and looks stunning even now...20 months later.

An update. My car is going to be kept by Skoda for 2-3 weeks whilst they try and solve the KPH issue. The person o am dealing with at Skoda is very good and the communication is excellent. She is really pushing the case and they are aware of the legalities of situation. Whilst there mine is having the 'kangerooing' engine and other things looked at. I am hoping that the time frame we are looking at is going to be 2-3 weeks for the KMH fix to be sorted. There certainly has been alot of contact with the factory by all accounts. Good news hopefully.

UPDATE: I installed this TPMS kit. The external sensors are a bit ugly, but it seems to do a good job and it’s a neat and easy kit aside from that. It has a display with a solar panel that attaches to the windscreen that wakes up when it detects vibration like a door closing.

Well managed to get a VRS after all!! Picked the 3008 GT but wanted to stay with Skoda. Now to pick the colour. Mine is green and can't see this in the colour options?

Accept my apologies I am describing my mk3 Octavia & you are describing a mk4 , sorry

Ask them, we don't know, this isn't an online shop, it's a self-help forum.

I wouldn’t use any sort of paint correction on fresh paint for about 3 months after it was done. I’ve seen cars with a genuine and quality 9h coating still protected after 5-6yrs. Gizmos is a well known quality item, or I would use the RaceGlaze 9h coating as well. Or you can now get a 10h coating from Gtechniq as well that Ive seen give great results as well. Be careful of people claiming ceramic and adding a “ceramic” wax instead. A genuine coating will make your normal washing procedure an awful lot easier. Should have said, a genuine coating will be done inside and then require being left inside for at least 24hrs after application with an instruction not to wash the paint for at least one to two weeks afterwards. And a properly corrected car with a 9h then applied is ballpark £500-£600 depending on paintwork condition before starting.

Greedy automakers..... EV's can already stand on its own as good product at very competitive total cost of ownership. The grant should really go into funding electric highway charging hubs across all major trunk roads.

I'm sorry I don't deal with it, cannot help you. There is no update for your unit.

https://www.autocar.co.uk/car-news/new-cars/bmw-i3-price-slashed-qualify-electric-car-grant

It's about UX research and best practices combined with tightly integrated customer feedback loop. Looks like this was sub-par on mib3. The bright side is that less physical buttons and more virtual buttons means that there's more scope for these things to be addressed as software updates..

289 miles on 39 litres is ~33.7 mpg 330 miles on 39 litres is ~38.5 mpg To put that into context, the worse/best from a single tank in my vRS is 33.0 vs 41.95 mpg so its certainly within single tank variance. Might be worth measuring a few more tanks to confirm the fuel usage Also you should bare in mind that: - A to E rated tyres can change fuel usage by up to 5% (A to G is upto 7.5%) - Used (2mm tread) to new (8mm tread) will effect the odometer by ~2% - Not all 225/45 R17 tyres are even the same size which will effect the odometer The reason I mention the tyre size is because a larger tyre will make the car think it's covered less distance and mess up your calculation by making it appear low. A combination of the above factors can easily cause extra fuel use and also make the reported mileage seem to drop giving a large difference

Sunshine!! No leggings, double layers or coat 👍 No Coffee either. 😞. Forgot a mask

@1963Malc I take it you are getting the car repainted after the zinc inclusion has been dealt with and you are not getting new panels and those painted. I would not rush to spend money on treatments before seeing how good the repair and painting is done. See what the detailer says when it comes to that. Better still talk to the painter. On a 5 year old car with original paint and repainted panels i would stick with polishing and waxing the car. .

Here we go, looks like i'm only updating every 3 months or so........ Struggling for any enthusiasm at the moment for messing with the car, working from home for the last 12 months has seen me getting less and less bothered about it. I know it needs finishing but with not being able to drop things at suppliers, firms being closed, it's seen it sit yet again for months on end. Still, keeps the mileage down i guess.. But, i have been doing the odd bit here and there, continuing with the interior. The rear seats are still out of the car, all clean and wrapped up ready to go back in, so i've been focusing on the drivers side floor/plastics. The carpet was given a prolonged cleaning session, wet cleaned with Chemical Guys carpet solution and then extracted, looks much nicer in there. While the drivers seat is out, it was chance to address the knocked about plastic sill trim that bugged me everytime i opened the door. Various bits of damage after 15 years is to be expected. I sourced a replacement trim for both this piece and the panel underneath the seatbelt buckle, still available from TPS. Look how long it'd been on a dusty shelf in Czech Republic...... Yip, that's right, been on the shelf for nigh on 15 years... same as the other piece i bought. Needless to say was a tricky bugger to fit, but looks loads better now. Pedals have been steam cleaned and the used mat given a light hoover. I have got a new set of mats in the loft if i even need to change them in the future. The seat fixing bolts have all been cleaned up and are being painted satin black as we speak. Speaking of seats..... i have now built a bespoke adjustable subframe for a single Cobra Suzuka GT Width racing seat. The seat subframe is now being broken down into the component parts to be painted up, and the seat is going away to my trimmers next week. The plan is to have the seat covered in vRS Fabia material, in the same style as the factory road seats, so light grey outer, onyx grey inner with the VRS logo in the right place. So it will look similar but different at the same time. Time will tell if i can live with it long term but it's something i've not seen done on a Fabia before and keeps it OEM+ instead of just throwing in a black bucket seat. The seat material has been a mission to get hold of but i'm confident it'll look stunning when done. I'm toying with the idea of getting the trimmer to make an elasticated waterproof cover to fit snug over the seat to keep mucky hands off it in the garage etc. I'll get more pics up soon, promise... :-)

Hopefully this will help: Any feedback or if you see any obvious mistakes, just let me know

I wish I had the cream leather as like you said makes it look airy and also less hot in summer. Gliptone liquid leather is what you need, as soon as leather seats look shiney it’s dirty :( It makes the car smell amazing too with its leather smell, though if you apply it without gloves it does smell like you’ve been fisting a cow

Ok. Then it's previous model. I think it would be best if you ask this in the dedicated forum. https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/235-skoda-octavia-mk-iii-2013-onward/

I just collected my new karoq yesterday with the virtual cockpit. It's a £495 option on a new build.

Now seems to be back from the dead! New V5 issued February & currently taxed.😁

Have just just spoken to Skoda customer services apparently it was a decision not to use postcodes but to use coordinates instead. What I do not understand is why they think that’s better, when asked for my address I asked if he wanted my coordinates, guess what, he wanted a postcode.

Artistic stoppers.

In my kitchen.