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Got the 280 stage 1 tuned. First of was very surprised (but not unheard of) that Skoda underrates the engine clearly. It should be 280 bhp but stock dynod at 226kw / 304bhp and then got a gain of 57kw so now it is 283kw / 380 bhp. Will measure with Dragy 0-100km/h, 0-200km/h, 100-200 and 1/4 & 1/2 mile times soon to compare to reference point at stock.

Quartz grey basking in the sun

Worth looking at this:- robs12 Finding my Feet Members 22 1 77 posts Posted 23 March (edited) When the engine was introduced, VW made lots of noise about the belt lasting for the life of the engine - it did not have a replacement interval and the VW blurb said maintenance free - see page 13 of the VAG Service Training manual here: https://procarmanuals.com/vag-ssp-511-new-ea211-petrol-engine-family/ VW blurb here, about half way down about toothed belt: https://www.volkswagen-newsroom.com/en/the-new-golf-das-auto-international-driving-presentation-2797/the-new-golf-powertrain-structure-engines-and-gearboxes-2835 Inspection was at ~160k miles, then again every ~20K, change only if needed. But Skoda UK suggest change it every 5 years/50K miles: https://www.skoda.co.uk/_doc/8b70c541-726b-4996-9999-66ebc7ca520b Take your pick.... Edited 23 March by robs12

So had my JB4 installed on Thursday. Been using map 1 until today. Today i had engine oil done also dsg & haldex oil changed. Then i refuelled with higher octane fuel and switched to map 2.... OMG.... I thought with Map 1 there was difference but Map 2 just feels crazy...in the best possible way.... It pulls really hard and gearbox seems to be shifting bit later too when pushing it... Obviously i won't be using it full stop. Map 1 will be always on though... Just waiting for exhaust system from Germany and then i will be happy man😁

Have you noticed any difference with the thicker front ARB Trevor? I’ve got one mine but not driven it yet to see😂

Fair to say that it is definitely important to have your haldex pump taken out and cleaned when you changing haldex oil...this is mine after 18k and it is the second change already👀

Here is the car almost finished 😁

I did, she is still on the house roof ..... Thanks AG Falco

I think there’s a couple of 4x4 trickling through on here just now. I’m going to just dial everything down for a bit and let them get on with it. The point I made on the last Live Chat, was that they seem to think that an indefinite waiting time is acceptable to customers, which in reality just isn’t a practical scenario. But to be honest, my experience is just one of a number caught on this forum, which leads me to believe that somewhere along the way, during this whole global pandemic, the customer has fallen way down the pecking order for Skoda, which is disappointing. Those poor guys who have already taken delivery of glitching cars, already paying their monthly loan payments or lease payments or who have paid out in full for cars that don’t work have had little or no support / sympathy from the brand. So my lack of info (added to my impatience😬) pales into insignificance when put up against their experiences. Keep talking and updating chaps as it really does help✌🏼👍🏼

Getting haldex, DSG box serviced, engine flushed and oil & filter changed

Hi, I had a problem with the OEM armrest insert as my cup would not fit there- evidently simply not-so-clever option in my Kodiaq. As I feel very much attached to my Contigo cup- figured I'll find a solution to that. This is my cupholder solution- 2 pieces of 3 mm plywood traced on the oem insert, cut with dremel, wrapped in self adhesive felt. some screws & washers & nuts to join and adjust the height - and the cup fits now perfect, even fitting under the armrest :) It is removable, fits like the oem insert - if I would maybe take more care on finishing the bottom side, it would be reversible as the OEM one. attached also 1 photo of the prototype to show how the nuts & bolts work. (i also gave the bottom rubber which is removable - a coat of this felt, as it seems nicer now :) )

Hi All, I'm hoping someone can give me some good advice or tips on a problem I'm having with condensation in the spare wheel well on my Skoda Superb (saloon 170 DSG). For the last few months (since autumn / winter basically) I've noticed that I'm regularly getting condensation at the top of the spare wheel well (at the back, closest to the rear seats). Initially I thought I had a leak into the car, because I was getting severe condensation build-up on the inside of the front and rear windows whenever there was a cold / frosty night (the condensation was literally freezing on the inside of the windows). I checked everything I could think of, but couldn't find a leak. Then I discovered that I had a considerable amount of water in the spare wheel well (maybe a litre or so). I took the water out, dried the well and waited to see what happened. Lo and behold, the condensation inside the windows issue went away overnight. Happy days I thought. When I discovered the water in the wheel well, I checked the carpets all around the boot and was surprised that they were bone dry. There was small amount of ice on the underside of the carpet liner (the removable carpet) that I defrosted and dried out. The rest of the metal surfaces were dry and I couldn't see any leaks or holes. The plastic boot liner was also dry. So I was a bit stumped, but I figured I'd wait and see what happened. And what has happened is that, every night that the air temperature is cold (below 5c or so), I get a small amount of condensation in the spare wheel well again. It's always in the same place - towards the top and back of the well. My best guess is that this has been happening for quite some time and the build-up of water in the well happened over a year or so, rather than through a leak or water ingress. I've checked all around the boot again and still can't find any leaks. Also, I have driven the car in wet weather, and checked it after heavy rain, and there isn't any water getting into the boot after these events. It always seems to be after a cold night. Hence my conviction that it is condensation rather than a leak. So what do I do now? Do I just wipe off the condensation every week or so and put up with it? Should I put a dehumidifier bag in the well or something? Or am I missing something obvious? When I was looking in the boot just now, I noticed that there are two rubber grommets / bungs at the top of the well, close to where the condensation is happening. When I levered these up, I was surprised to discover that I was basically looking down at the tarmac! I'm not sure what I expected to see (other than a recess or insulation maybe), but they are basically just holes onto the road. So is it just that the rubber on the bungs has shrunk / perished over the years (the car is 13 years old almost)? And, if so, can I buy new bungs or should I just tape over them or use sealant around them or something? I'm not entirely sure what purpose they are serving, but I don't want to mess with them if they're doing something important! (As in, if they are designed to aid circulation in the boot, I don't to seal them and stop air circulation). I should add that I have searched for the issue on here, but it mostly seems to affect Octavias, and the problems mostly don't seem to apply to me: there isn't a rear washer to leak, water seems to be draining as normal from the rear of the car, there aren't any signs of water ingress etc. I know it will be much less of an issue over the coming months (and will be hard to prove that any intervention has worked until the nights get cold again), but I'm hoping someone can point me in the right direction. Many thanks, Declan.

You can also try gendan: http://www.gendan.co.uk/faq/409_win7.php#1 They are an official VCDS distributor so should be trust worthy. There is also something here: https://www.ross-tech.com/vag-com/usb/virtual-com-port.php But I've no idea if that'll work with a 409.

No, plastic boot tray and boot carpet are both fully intact. The rubber plugs are the only thing that I can theorise might be the problem, given how close they are to the condensation on my car. But it's likely just a coincidence. I might try taping over them with Gorilla tape tomorrow and see if that does anything (basically, try to seal around them as much as possible with something I can get off again easily if needs be). I mean, logically, condensation (which I am convinced is my problem rather than water ingress) is cold air meeting warm air. Given that the condensation in my car seems happen when we have a cold night, it suggests that cold air is seeping into the boot and meeting warmer air that's in the wheel well. So either the metal in the wheel well has weakened / deteriorated over the years and is thinner than it should be, or some kind of heat shield under the car has deteriorated over time, or the rubber plugs aren't sealing as well as they should (assuming that they were ever designed to seal). I'm at a loss to figure out any other options.

The vrs intake is the plastic pipe and piece that goes from the front of the car to the airbox, I've a picture attached to show what i'm on about. I also have a pic of the difference between the two. And finally a pic of the deflapped airbox of mine. Theres usually a big plastic flap there and by removing it it should free things up a bit. Theres also a small drain at the bottom of the airbox and if you remove it you can get a bit of induction noise. If you're going for a bit of power people have put 1.8t engines into mk1 fabias, cant imagine a mk2 is much different, i'm pretty sure someones put a turbo on a 1.2l recently if thats more appealing.

That colour is such a head turner

I'm going to look at changing the shoes later on, but luckily as I suspected the problem was coming from the front brakes, they'd done 54,000 from factory after all

So bit of an update, Got to the rears all the pads and discs where correct. Pulled something in my arm trying to get those bolts off, ended up using some old play Frame bar on the end of a long wrench to get the bolts shifted. Incredibly happy that I managed to do it all myself, with a little help from my dad as well. Old Discs and Pads Said bolts, Was really pleased that the spline bit didn't slip at all after previous bad experience with them. New vs old... (front ones) New ones on, Been driving on the new brakes for a few weeks, really impressed by the performance of them. and they look the part too. Thanks for the help in getting the correct disks and pads!

It looks like they have a range of 35-60mm on the front and 20-45mm on the rear. I have it set to 40mm on the front and 45mm on the rear. The ddc works as before and I have seen no error codes yet!

the problem to me is within the door wiring loom... Smoking = direct short to ground as does fuse blowing. Where is the rubber boot from the door wiring loom ?

Should be 4N0133246. which rear mufflers did you buy? I also bought new back boxes, will install mine this week on Tuesday

And breeeeeathe. i've managed to finally get the stuck-in bit out. What I thought were two metal retainers or similar was part of the plastic from the old clip - a trick of the light made it look metallic and it was in exactly the right (or wrong) place. Thank you once again for all the advice and trouble you've gone to; I really appreciate it. You can also see if you didn't know already how totally illiterate I am when it comes to anything mechanical. Now, if you have any suggestions for an appropriate punishment should I ever come across the scrote who stole the original...

What screws? This part: Looks to be a perfect match for the profile of these clips: So it's very likely it's just been snapped off when they removed the cover

Just done a diy oil change using oem oil filter and seal and plastic sump nut,first used archoil engine flush drained oil then put fresh castrol edge 5w30w oil with archoil oil modifier, replaced oem air filter with k&n filter straight swap,all very easy to do.now purring lovely.

And the same carpet after a scrub and a jet wash. Didn't come up too bad.

Your car obviously has PCC - Predictive Complaint Control - simply clever

Sorry to say that car #99 has been traded in against a 2015 Octavia vRs 2.0 TFSI. Vladimir will be sorely missed but Rasputin is a fine FINE replacement. Thought I’d let the register know it was traded to the Littleport area and I’ve seen him driving around and being cared for so I’m happy.

More than just the belt that needs changing. I would always change it along with all the pulleys, tensioners and water pump. The belt m3igjt last another 60,000 miles but if a tensioner goes it is bye bye engine. Most decent indy garages will do it for under £400 using genuine parts. But mainly for peace of mind and also future saleability of the cars value.

I’m near enough sold. The range lets me get to a few places and once there allows me to go out for a day. eg fort William to the tip of ardnamurchan and back. Or a sprint up to glen brittle in Skye if the sky is clear. my next dilemma is the smart way to pay for one. lease as this tech is shifting quickly. the old buy outright and keep for ten years, battery risk? Off course if one had a limited company and a car requirement, there are some amazing tax benefits. Sadly these don’t trickle down to you and I as a retail customer. Thoughts?

I think the same @Shelvock, that it probably will be the last purchase a lot of us do. I think other folk a while ago ordered 4x4 option didn't they @Skodev? I know it's disheartening, but maybe give the live chat option a go; worse case scenario they tell you f*** all, which is where you are already.

Yes mate. To be honest it pi$$$d me off. The first guy I live chatted to was really good, but ultimately couldn’t tell me anything specific as they didn’t know. That was about six weeks ago, and he said leave it three or four weeks and try again as there has been reductions in the Octavia production runs. So I left it four weeks and contacted Live Chat again to ask for an update. A different guy this time who actually said “as you were told four weeks ago, there’s no build date been allocated” which obviously triggered me a little bit. I was then advised to wait a further two weeks, which elapsed today, but I haven’t chased it. My dealer sent me two emails earlier on, after ordering, within a couple a weeks saying no build date so far. And then I’ve heard nothing for about 7 weeks. I replied with questions on both occasions and didn’t receive any responses. It’s a shame because I had a previous vRS from them In 2015 and they were fantastic, so much so that my wife took a new Karoq off them in 2018. But it’s a bit different now and I know they’ve furloughed loads of sales staff. Another thing that wound me up was that I signed all my paperwork with the dealer on 29th January and yet Skoda say my order is showing as being received on the 10th of Feb? So nearly two weeks after. It’s hard to be too critical because of the circumstances but it’s also not clear where poor customer service ends and Covid impact begins at dealer level or Skoda level. Anyway, my main worry was my current car goes back 27th of the month, but the lease company have agreed an informal extension capped at 6 months, so thats taken the worry away for now. 👍🏼👍🏼 Keep us posted on your timelines pal. 😎

Cheers pal. I use Tesco 99 Ron and have done since owning it, so hopefully it's okay! I've also purchased a Pipercross panel filter and cut out part of the air inlet panel (right side) in front of the air box. I've left the left side open for now, but believe a blanking plate can be purchased! I've also removed the snow guard in the air box. With these tweaks, the car does feel marginally better to drive and can hear a very slight increase with induction noise! I was thinking of getting a better turbo inlet elbow and intake pipe as I believe the OEM is restricted a little. Like you say, there's a few cheeky mods without a remap!

Yeah, I thought the same thing.

Last bits of suspension done, eibach 22mm farb, hopefully get it booked in for alignment again next week. Also my samco intake hose arrived after two months of waiting for it to be made so fitted that

I'm wondering if your stabilizer bar has 'walked' sideways due to the rubbish plastic collars on the earlier Fabias. Have a look to see if it's even on both sides. Later Fabias have welded metal collars on the bar to stop it moving sideways...

Definitely suits red and not many cars can pull that off. 👍🏼👍🏼

My TDI Mk4 VRS, in love with the colour!

I have had both (in earlier versions, not mk 4) and beige makes the car feel so much more light and airy. On a gloomy day the black is rather depressing by comparison. Our second Octavia a mk1 L&K had tan leather, no longer available but still better than black. (and before anyone asks have a dog, and a child) Given a choice, I would always go for the beige now as it makes the car feel so much nicer to be in.

Thank you for updating me! My mistake, not enough searching.

Jimnys hold their money pretty well, probably a bit too well. If you're not too fussy maybe something like a Dihatsu Terios would do the job cheaply? They do have permanent 4x4 with a centre diff lock.

19" summer wheels back in place. I'm finally enjoying my detailing work this winter (deep cleaning, waxing and tyres dressing) Clean wheels but dirty car... 2 new Michelin PS4 on the rear axle. Finally got rid of the original Pirelli P7. I'm eager to go for a drive, to feel the différence

Bit of a boring update, Gave the car a much needed wash. Got it filthy driving it around the farm. Cleans up well considering. Also got some briskoda stickers on it, something i've been meaning to do for a while.

I second the wedge cushion. I am 6 foot 8, and my problem was the vrs seat pressing on my leg. I was worried that it would mean I would have to give up the car, as I couldn't drive it for more than an hour. One wedge cushion later, and I can do multi hour drives without a problem.

Sportline wasn't available when I bought mine in 2018 Amazingly they still work.. and they are within legal standards.. and amazingly too I do use indicators and even brakes...

Sachs sells four springs to match the following four OEM numbers: Soft 1K0511115BD Medium 1K0511115BE Hard 1K0511115BF Sachs 996653 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2x-Sachs-996653-Rear-Suspension-Coil-Springs-ALTEA-OCTAVIA-GOLF-PASSAT/224174520360?hash=item3431d7b828:g:8vsAAOSwC7tde18f Extra Hard 1K0511115BG I've labelled them soft, medium, hard, and extra hard so you can see the hierarchy. Soft and medium was used on the hatchback versions of the Octavia MK2, and hard and extra hard was used on the estate versions of the Octavia MK2. I suggestion you use the hard one from the estate. The extra hard was used on the estate when fitted with a factory towbar. The extra hard will compromise the car's ride quality unless you are carrying a lot of weight in the back, so only use it if you really need to, ie. regularly carrying 5 people, all their lugguage, and towing a caravan at the same time. Sachs are available to match all four of the above rear springs, but I've only shown an ebay link to the hard version. I've compared photos of the hard and extra hard versions, and the only difference is in the number of coil turns...the hard uses 8 coil turns and the extra hard uses 7.5 coil turns (less coil turns when all other things are equal makes the spring harder).

You are correct my man... they had it traded in because the previous owner developed back problems and the seats no longer for him. Good enough reason to sell - for me!

Yes, I had the updated software loaded on Tuesday and problem fixed. thank you

Had mine sorted today by Skoda North Wales - 8755 is definitely the software version you need to fix it.

That does look nice.