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The General Public including non car drivers are the ones that suffer from vehicles Emissions, and the value of used TDI's is pretty high and certainly not suffering from depreciation because of the Emissions Cheat VW Group had on vehicles. Maybe give a cash donation to the Heart & Lung type charities from the saving you had on low VED and good fuel consumption you got with your TDI's.

Ordered/Registered/Collected list for the MK IV Fabia. So who is going to be the first on the Briskoda community to order?

Hello mates. My name is Cristian, from Santiago of Chile. Was seeking for a mk3 to make it faster.... ended up with this toy. 2014 CTHE 40.000 KM Because of covid, the prices went up and I already have a Karoq for the daily driving routine, but needed a track/daily so, posted a history in my instagram page and here we are. Mods alreeady done. GFB DV+ Whiteline bushes (ended upp killing one in the first trackday) whiteline swaybar links Toyo r888r for the track in 205/40r17 Meyle hd TT RS ball joints 2.5 BRM inox mid pipe exhaust, original backbox OZ formula HLT 17X7.5 Goodyear eagle f1 asy 5 daily tires RCD360 Headunit Mods not yet installed/arrived POLO GTI 9n side skirts (need repair) bilstein B16 coilovers Powerflex black series rear control arm bushing whiteline rear anti roll bar creation motorsport catch can audi TT rear brake mod Porsche boxster 986 front calipers FUTURE MODS Skoda alcantara steering wheel WIECHERS strut maybe TCU REMAP PROBABLY ENGINE TOO TVS OR RTMG THE PLAN Make it AS RELIABLE AS POSSIBLE I always had some fear to own a fabia vrs with all the bad fame earned in the years but, here I am, enjoyin every time I jump of the Karoq to this. Hope you like it. Cheers!

Hi, hopefully the pictures and links will explain this simple mod. It takes about 10 minutes excluding glue drying time. The springs bought are 16mm od, 8mm id and 50mm long if you want to use washers or 55mm if you dont. They need to compress by about about a third (ie from 55mm down to 35mm). The washers are 16mm od, 8mm id, 2mm thick. My Gas struts could support the boot open but were worn so I replaced them anyway. Here are the links I used: Heavy Load Duty Compression Die Spring, 8-18mm Diameter & Up To 55mm Long JIS https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/223584768462?hash=item340eb0d1ce:g:5O0AAOSwLxBdKLk7 2X TAILGATE BOOT GAS STRUTS FOR SKODA OCTAVIA MK2 COMBI 04-13 ESTATE 1Z9827550 https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_sacat=0&_nkw=2+x+tailgate+boot+gas+struts+for+skoda+octavia+mk2+combi+04+13+estate+1+z+9827550&_blrs=spell_check Metric M8 plastic washers 8mm ID 16mm OD 2mm pack of four https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2047675.m570.l1313&_nkw=Metric+M8+plastic+washers+8mm+ID+16mm+OD+2mm+pack+of+four&_sacat=0 20210512_164832.mp4

Well she's finally plated and my god what a leap it is from my MK 3 RS in terms of technology, which touch wood has been absolutely flawless even though it's only day one of ownership. The ambient lighting, kessy, wireless Android Auto, digital cockpit, and the voodoo that is ACC are things I could never do without now in a car.

Which ECU, the main engine ECU or the haldex controller? Firing the parts cannon at it isn't a very good idea, a competent diagnostic tech with vcds or a good scanner giving a better detailed code should be able to narrow down the fault to within 1 or 2 components through live data, signal readings and wiring checks

You're welcome, please let us know how it goes.

So pleased for you that you now have a car that delivers your needs. We had a MK3 for 4 years spending summers in Spain towing and sold it with 40k on the clock and never had any issues whatsoever, just wish we had never part-ex for the new MK4 which sadly wasn't Covid Free!! It goes back on Monday. Disappointed in the extreme with Skoda UK totally unsupportive good job my supplying dealership had ethics settling in full without deductions. Now leaving the brand for Ford Kuga. Interestingly it has much the same in facilities / specification but on their site there are no gripes about things not working or giving error messages.

Ive just got my mk III after rejecting my mk iv. The mk iii is superb. Engine, whilst the same 1.5 tsi that was in the mk iv is loads better somehow in the mk iii. Smooth and powerful. Everything works, absolutely everything. It is a delight. The mk iv may look better and have better potential but I absolutely love the 3.5 facelift. Made me realise why I like Skoda in the first place. I pointed out to my dealer that someone at the dealership had driven my car for 8000 miles before I had it. Claimed there never was a problem. I had my mk iv for a single day and had plenty of issues. These ex demo cars are being sold, and still are, by dealers who know there are problems. To me, that is morally wrong and thoroughly out of order.

No. It doesn't matter, KYB used to be Kayaba, a Japanese OEM rather than a German OEM.

205/50 and 225/45 have about the same sidewall height. To calculate the sidewall height, multiple the aspect ratio by the nominal tyre width. Sidewall Height 205/50 = 102.5mm 225/45 = 101.25mm

Good luck... Keep us up to date with it 🚴🚴🚴👍

That's just WOW.. in a bad sense. Have you tried changing the oil brand? Does your car do lots of dpf regens? Mine used to drink up about 1L/1000km when it had the DPF clogged and it was on a different brand of oil. Also, Is there any sign of blue smoke ? Is there any noticeable oil on the plastic shield?

Oh no, deffo not. I'm doing Ride across Britain in September, these were two consecutive road days as training rides to re-assure myself I could The actual event is 980 miles over 9 consecutive days which is going to be a big ask...

Got it. Ordering now

Looks like this in my car

. If you mean under the bottom edge of the boot when closed, it's designed that way. If that gap wasn't there, you couldn't fit a rigid bumper protector. . If you

Oh yeah, don't forget to put the protective rubber guard back on new thermostat, and note coolant flow indicator on old and new thermostat. Like u in my younger days would have dived in. I set aside a day for it and completed in 3 hours as I really took my time. Realistically should be about a 1 hour job. Obviously do this with cold engine, and do NOT take off the Coolant tank lid, this will stop the coolant flowing out when u remove thermostat and hose assembly off DSG cooler.

That's quite a specific issue - it all depends on what firmware version you are on at the moment - and which SOP version you are running on. SOP3.x I think is 0365, SOP4.x is 0478 [even though I have seen a 0490, but think this is for specific cars].

Update!! So the RCD360 Pro arrived from China yesterday (Order to delivery time of 'only' 13 days! and no customs charge). I paid €203 (for the one with green lights!) which is an absolute steal (even if it for a knock off RCD330). It came with 2 required connectors. After putting all the trim pieces I removed to wire the reverse camera and dashcam (It was a pain I don't want to go through again!), I got onto installing the radio. The Radio was an easy install. Take off trim, take off old RCD310, Plug in supplied connectors, screw in the new unit, put back the fascia. I failed to place an order for a new fascia as I'm trying to get one with the same quality wood finish. The only one I can find now are this and this. I'm skeptical about them. I'll give my dealer a call and see if they can help me with an OEM fascia that fits. Finally, the information that the RCD360 pro presents The green lights are a tad dimmer than the other green lights in the car but I can barely notice it. Bluetooth and Android auto works great. The sound quality was trash the first time I played some music and my heart sank. I plugged in my OBD11 and scanned the radio (56) It threw up several fault codes! Most related to base 'front-right base open connection' (or similar) I cleared all the codes, RESET the unit but holding both the knobs down for 15 seconds, played the same song again. This time on, the sound quality is 90% the OEM RCD310!! Not the best but I'll take the trade off any day. All said and done, I'll live with the hole for a month until I get the fascia sorted and I'm a happy camper.

In this case I'd not be scrapping. Certainly sell it. Anything with an mot is always worth £500, even for a shed of a car. If yours is respectable and presentable with average miles etc and if the damage wasn't huge, I'd find someone selling a similar vehicle, and take 1/3rd to 1/2 off the price to allow for for the category status.

Amen. Cars are rolling computers now. I used to be able to do all my own work on my motor – rebuilt the carburetor on my V8 Camaro just by taking it apart piece-by-piece, installing the new bits and reassembling. Solved the battery charging problem by tightening the fan belt. Thankfully, as motors became more and more complicated, my income rose to meet the servicing requirements. @omnipeta I don't know of any video. There is a pdf manual you can download, and there should have been one supplied with the car. Or, like Penpusher said, just trial and error. Or, pretend it's the 60's and just put it in "D" and go!

OK, I found this You Tube video most helpful in removing the Air Box, etc. Re special tools, You will need LARGE Pliers especially the very large Hose spring clip on the airbox. If the spring clips on the hoses look really badly corroded, you may want a spare jubilee clip or 2 incase they break when you try to open them. I found it easier to remove the Thermostat and its attached hoses as one unit off the DSG Cooler, and then undo and replace the Thermostat unit on the workbench. Loss of fluid this way is less than a cupful. You will need to slowly prise off the hoses from the metal DSG cooler fittings, once you have moved the clips back onto the middle of the hose. I used a wide flat bladed screwdriver. Now to the Thermostat itself. Yes there are many available at different prices, and that is because they all have different Temperature opening settings. You tend to find that the cheaper units have a lower opening Temp, as they are for other VAG models, that require different opening Temps in the DSG cooler. For the DSG on the Yeti, you want an opening Temp of 75.C not any lower, Else Consumption, smoothness of gear change, etc will be effected,

As I understand it the obligation to report a vehicle's accident/repair history for a private sale is a moral rather than a legal one, so it's up to you whether you advertise it with history or just sell it "as seen" as a vehicle now surplus to requirements. Again as I understand the issue of liability only applies if you misdescribe the vehicle at sale.

Scrapping will get you scrap value, so £120-£150. Its the easiest and quickest option, with no consequences or guilty conscience over your head and car gone within a few hours. Depends on the level of damage, someone may wish to take a punt on it and repair if its just panel and lamps damage. If you do try to sell it, then make it crystal clear in the advert that is a category (insert level) write off and is sold strictly as breaking and not roadworthy and should not be driven away etc. You really do need to cover yourself here. The 3rd option if you've got the time and space, is offer the car up as breaking, sell off all the bits people want, then scrap the rolling remains.

Well if you want to talk about panel gaps, go look at any Tesla. For what you pay for the product is woeful. I've seen Range Rovers with poor panel gaps (over 100 thousand dollars in Australia) so sadly the comment "you get what you paid for" isn't overly true nor fitting.

When I bought the car I had 4 Michelin PS4 tyres with approx 3mm tread left and they were awful! hardly any grip in the wet. I went for the PS4 on the Octavia as reviews were amazing and I have the PS4S on my Golf R and they are extraordinary. Not sure what they'll be like when they get low but for now absolutely brilliant in wet and dry, no more slippage! Bargain as well £86 each from BlackCircles . Wouldn't hesitate to buy them again :)

It is. October 2015 and its deffo a Euro 6 when I check it's reg on the clean air zone sites.

I'd guess if you can afford to buy OEM led tail lights then further outlay is beyond your resources? The cable you use wouldn't be available if Ross Tech didn't build the software so you could buy it from someone who stole it.

I take it these photos are pre spliter being fitted ? Still looks gorgeous mate

no, its not bad. its a matter of personal preferance/choice. more pics below from different angles - 15mm spacers on the rear, not lowered.

from what i understand, it'll treat the battery as a the same one, but I'd probably saved you'd be better changing the serial so the car treats it like it's 'third' battery. As long as the battery details which are saved (AH and battery), the car will know how to charge it up.

oh it was foggy.. thats the same photo i took yesterday.. but no matter, i stretched the route a bit more - 13.7k in bang on 1 hr. and got 3 more climbs onto it. full lap of the woods and then down the firebreak. the fact i came off the bike again on the fire break, tucking and rolling, but also sliding about 15ft on my back made it a little less pleasant for a minute. the slight swelling and light abrasion on my lower back from the tree root i slid over makes it tad less comfortable now. but fk it. i got up, got back on said "£@%@%@"# mud hole!" and carried on. i havnt fallen off an bike since i was 10, and ive fallen off twice in a week as a 37yr old 🤦‍♂️

Awesome, really nice mods mate! Have you done the electrical installations yourself (Rear camera/steering wheel/fog lights/washer level) ?? Or can you recommend a specialist ?

Never formally introduced myself on the Fabia MkIII page. So please let me introduce Fred the Fabia! I Purchased my Fabia back in September 2020 from Sinclair Skoda in Swansea. Traded in my loved Mk2 Fabia which I had for exactly 5 Years to the day of trade in (Coincidence) 2017 Fabia III Colour Edition 1.2tsi 90ps (28,700 miles) (Race Blue) Cruise Control Heated Seats Light Assist (Auto Lights) Spare Wheel Managed to get them to chuck in the passenger seat umbrella as part of the sale. Since purchase I have done a few adaptations / changes to Fred. Activation of Hill Hold Assist, Needle Sweep, Unlock Lock Beep, Refuel quantity and Lap Timer. Centre Arm Rest Flat Bottom Steering Wheel (Monte Carlo) Monte Carlo Dash Trim Reversing Camera Front Fog Lights Wrapped Front Grill Washer Fluid Level Sensor Yellow Fog Light Tint Black Badges all round Wind Deflectors Footwell RGB Lights Done nearly 10k Miles in it so far and loving it!! Photo below of the day I put the deposit down A few photos of the changes I have made! (Red Fabia SE is my Partners)

? Some Skoda Perth / John Clark Motor Group sales staff are not the greatest for knowing their arse from elbow if it was one of them.

I can be reasonably confident in saying that your problem will not be spark plug related.

2.0TDI Engines are different beasts - and whether it is a 1.6 or a 2.0TDI engine, different methods of applying the firmware apply (because they are different engines). OP stated a 1.6 TDI

Guessing you have the 18s fitted and not 19s. Huge price difference. Goodyears in 18s are £87 per tyre. In 19s, £137. Still compare that to the PS4. That is a saving of £52 for 4 tyres. Goodyear still gets my vote as they out do each other at various tyre tests. But the Goodyears always come out cheaper.

I think most folk around the 1.6TDI engines are feeling somewhat sceptical around having software updates after the EURO5 debarcle. This isn't the same issue, its a problem whereby NOx levels maybe too high and a firmware update to the ECU will actually improve mpg. Skoda UK are trying to head off failures of the DPF and Catalyst early and this can be performed by tweaks to the engine. I know that people don't like change and some folk feel that Skoda will turn their 1.6TDI Ferrari into a 1.6TDI Snail-Mobile. The good news as this is a firmware change (as opposed to firmware change and a wholesale change of the injector ports for the EURO5 emissions scandel for the 1.6TDI engines), it can in theory be rolled back if the owner feel strongly enough and asks their dealer. Skoda UK have tested this change, so this isn't a case of testing on your customers.

Guys, Thank you ever so much for this post. Last Autumn, coolant temp just plummeted, fuel consumption increased, DSG gearbox got snatchy, and worse of all.... Heating was awful this winter. Changed the DSG Thermostat today...... Back to how it was the day I bough my Yeti.

Hey, just wanted to say thanks for the help on the forum this week from you all, especially @e-Roottoot. Really means a lot that folks are willing to share their knowledge around. After your prompting, I pushed the dealer a lot harder on the service history. The more I pushed, the more bluff there was. The vehicle had been on the 'variable' path, which meant that nothing more than an oil change had actually been done in 3.5 years. The dealer's offer to undertake the 'year 4' service before handover, turned out to just be an oil change, not the £310 of missing 'recommended items' (inc brake fluid, sparkplugs etc). Long story short, I withdrew. Called another dealer on a 2.0l TSI DSG and the service was night and day better. They immediately pulled up and emailed me the full service record certificate. This time it was on the 'interim' path and they had already undertaken the necessary ‘recommended’ items after they part-exed the car from their customer, ready for resale. Also, I hopefully have the added security of the less problematic wet DSG. Although I’m sure they also have their niggles too.

The PS4 I got fitted last year were £99 each; fitted. Think they still are on black circles. I wouldn’t call that expensive.

By the looks of it you need a Columbus/RNS510 radio trim/surround. It appears to the be the same shape to me. I bought one from AliExpress (or Wish o can't remember) and the quality was very good I have to say. You can buy genuine ones from Skoda and they're also not too expensive apparently (depending on the colour).

It seems to me that there is very little advantage to having the 1.5, if anything a greater risk. I think I will take the saving and opt for a low mile, slightly older, 1.4.

And breeeeeathe. i've managed to finally get the stuck-in bit out. What I thought were two metal retainers or similar was part of the plastic from the old clip - a trick of the light made it look metallic and it was in exactly the right (or wrong) place. Thank you once again for all the advice and trouble you've gone to; I really appreciate it. You can also see if you didn't know already how totally illiterate I am when it comes to anything mechanical. Now, if you have any suggestions for an appropriate punishment should I ever come across the scrote who stole the original...

So, another update to the build. Finally. The 1.4 turbo i purchased some 10 months ago was fitted shortly after it arrived, and was unsuccessfully mapped in quite a few times by multiple people. After quite some time talking with JBS about EA211 engines and turbos, they told me that they'd decided to develop a hybrid for it finally. Sooooo.. I'm the first person with the JBSL12 Hybrid Turbo! Results; That's 181bhp, and 206 ft/lbs (280nm). With stock exhaust, and stock intake. Leading on from this we learned; The turbo is capable of 1.7 bar, but we only used 1.5 bar to reach the 280nm mark which is about the limit for the stock rods (we thought it'd need about 1.6 bar but it was actually much more responsive to the additional boost than we expected). The stock exhaust becomes a restriction at the 5000 rpm point, and it actually took less boost to get to the 280nm torque than we expected. Sports cat should cure that and allow up to around 200-205bhp (again, limited by stock rods), but... The high pressure fuel pump just starts to run out at 180bhp, it could probably manage 190 at a push, so they're looking into taking the internals from a 1.8tsi hpfp and putting them inside our hpfp. Uprated rods should let it make as much as the turbo can make, which will top out probably about 220-230bhp. 200bhp/litre would be an impressive feat, but it's not something that could be done without excessive RnD into uprating internals and custom built turbos (hybrid wouldn't be enough for that).

It’s rivnutted in, you just need to drill the holes, top two are into the bracket that attaches straight to the strut top and bottom one goes into the triangle brace that goes arch-boot floor. They supply the rivnuts and a manual tool for fitting them. ive had the forge one before and didn’t notice any difference, wasn’t expecting anything with this other then looking good. But could feel it was stiffer straight away

Fitted some bits I’ve had for a while, new gearbox mount as I’ve had a lot of movement from that side and engine rocking causing dump valve to knock on strut brace. Dogbone mount was virtually new so thought I’d change gearbox first. It was obvious that the 15year old mount was past its best when removed, the rubber wasn’t split but it was very easy to move and flex it even with just my fingers. Also fitted some draft 42 solid shifter mounts while I was in the area.