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Finally got the paintwork sorted. 3 Stage polish needed to bring it back and then ceramic coated. Disappointed in the amount of small stone chips but still looks amazing and can see the Velvet red now pop.

To be honest I reckon it’s had a crash and not fixed properly, the mismatched panels are a big hint there. The smaller software glitches might be what other people are experiencing but if it’s been pranged that could explain the engine problems and body damage quite easily - it’s clearly not been fixed properly and the sort of person who wouldn’t care if it had been fixed properly is the sort of person who wouldn’t get the software updates needed to get rid of the glitches. Probably a fleet owner who in my experience treat their cars like crap. There’s no way I’d keep a car that’s had body damage and not sorted properly - mismatched panels on the outside - what’s been bodged underneath where you can’t see it?

I was using a cigarette lighter socket voltage monitor last year during lockdown (1.4TSI original 5 year old battery): -ignition off after 4 weeks stopped, 12.2V - ignition on, 11,6V - engine started, 14.5V - while driving, initially 14.5V dropping to 12.6V then pulsing every few minutes up to 14.5V for a minute or so No additional loads like dashcam, etc.

It will if you don't fit a purpose made hard wire kit. They monitor the battery voltage and disconnect feed to the dashcam when the voltage drops too low and thus preventing damage to the car battery. It's surprising how quickly a dashcam left powered up in a non-running car can drain down a battery, and if it keeps happening, then it will shorten the life of the battery.

Hi folks, please forgive me if I waffle on but thought I’d create a post following an extremely positive experience with a detailer I’ve just used. Having had cars detailed previously by others and suffering a level of OCD when it comes to looking after my car, I can’t tell you how chuffed I am with Advance detail. I contacted Jon at Advance after noticing a few little bits on the car with it now being little over two years old. The car itself was owned by Auric Goldfinger, a very active member on here and it’s clearly been cherished. Over the years unavoidable minor marks have been inflicted from washing, the gloss b pillars have inevitably marked and a good general decontamination was needed after going through the dealer used car prep. The car was booked in and within a few weeks Jon was able to get me in for a silver detail which was then protected with Gtechniq Crystal Serum Ultra, something only available through the accredited network. In my opinion Jon and his colleague Luke have done a fantastic job and I hope my pictures do it justice. The paintwork looks like new, the panels feel like glass, the beading is fantastic and he’s even added Paint protection film to delicate areas. I want to make it clear I’ve not received a discount on this process and I’m in no way linked to Advance detail. I honestly think that when someone does something just right that you pay for it’s worth the recognition. If nothing else hopefully you like the pictures, if my review helps one person who’s on the fence of what to get done or where to go then that just a bonus. All the best folks.

Lake was very still this evening

Brilliant, who knew focusing on form over function could be an entire alternative philosophical worldview.

Only 2015 onwards, Euro 6 Yetis use AdBlue. I wouldn't consider it to be in any way, "dreaded", however.

It just confuses things if people start taking about 1.5 TSI,s ACT,s and DQ200 DSG,s that there was the need of software updates for engines and some of their DSG,s with 1.4 TSI,s and DQ200 DSG,s. Totally different kettles of fish. The last of the 1.4 and DSG,s were as good as VW got then there was a bit of a ****-up getting the 1.5,s ready for the WLTP. The OP needs their vehicles issue diagnosed by someone with all the gear and more than just ideas.

And the trouble with taking to a dealership for these sorts of problems is that according to VW/Skoda the Mechatronics and Gearbox are just complete units. If something breaks on them then they need completely replacing as a whole unit. Even though most DSG problems can be fixed relatively easily and inexpensively. So an independent specialist should know this and can usually fix it. Wonder if it's something like the accumulator that's cracked. And it's the loss of pressure in the mechatronics or something.

The alternator does not charge the battery as in ye olden days. To save fuel etc the alternator tends to switch off and only charge on the overrun. It also only charges the battery to around 80% to allow capacity for it to accept charge when you lift of the accelerator etc.

MY17 Skoda Superb 206TSI aka 280 with new wheels, Michelin PS4S 255 40/R19, Rieger front splitter, side skirts and rear diffuser, full paint correction and ceramic paint protection along with it's colour coded CZECHM4TE name badge!

Fitted Rieger front splitter, side skirts and rear diffuser. New wheels fitted with new Michelin Pilot Sport 4s 255 40/R19. Full paint correction, ceramic coating and interior leather protection!

I didn't think having upside down calipers & not being able to bleed them properly could have caused your problem but reversing them is very common so just wanted to eliminate that. It sounds like the servo is losing vacuum, check all the hose connections.

Did you replace the seals in the calipers or just the pistons? Have you checked for fluid leaks from the calipers, bleed screws and connections? Please don't keep driving it - it sounds quite dangerous at the moment!

🤩 WOW!! That’s amazing!!

😳 That really is abysmal. I could kind of understand why my car wouldn’t register but not a brand-new vehicles.

Is not absolutely flawless, but it's pretty close in terms of the paint. The marks on the front are mostly dirt from 3 days of motorway driving since bringing it home. The colour while very nice, is likely going to be a pain to keep clean. Any bit of dirt shows up annoyingly clearly There is a mark on the back of the driver seat and a chip in the leather steering wheel. But still, A used car is never going to be perfect, and considering the low mileage and very reasonable price compared to a new Octavia or even Fabia, I'm very pleased with the condition.

Jerry57- yes I have been told week 33 for the build to start on the enyaq which is 16th Aug however my dealer copied me into a disclaimer skoda are requiring people to sign if they order from this week onwards regarding shortage of components. They are basically not giving estimate build dates from now on due to the issue with these semi conductors. I'm hoping they have enough supply for the cars they have provided dates for.

Also happens with the DRL bulbs. They are a special bulb to resist vibrations breaking the filament, but my experience is that the solder contact pip on the end of the bulb is fretted away by vibration. Result is that as it wears away it makes intermittent contact, resulting in random self fixing warnings of bulb failure. I posted a photo of a fretted bulb in a thread about three years ago. if this your problem, fix it by adding more solder to the end of the bulb. Mine is still working fine but I did both sides while I was at it.

On Skoda used/approved you have a 30 day/1000 mile no quibble exchange policy. worth looking into it and make sure you are still within the 30 days

That car will have already been rejected once for sure and just punted on to the next victim. Somebody should start a register with the registration/vin numbers of rejected vehicles and the faults they had. I'm not sure if you have the same rights of rejection for a used car than a new one, however being in posession of information about it having been rejected for the self same faults would give you a really strong case.

Managed to get the sensor off and this one is the one that goes before the turbo. The part number is 03L906088BK Found one on eBay for £45. Size 17 spanner and 10 mins to get off as it’s awkward to get to. So if you’ve got a 2011 fabia mk2 1.6tdi 75kw this the part number 👍

Not directly related but same problem with the ID.4. I've found boot liner manufacturers are very keen to measure up to get a product for the ID.4. I expect they will be keen to get hold of an Enyaq. So if one of the manufacturers is near you, give them a ring and see if they want to measure your car. The ID.4 group has got a boot liner sorted this way from Boot Buddy

Why is it dreaded? Given the choice I'd rather have a Euro6 CR150 than a dieselgate CR140 / CR170 model.

Talk to an Auto Electrician and discuss the options. I have a Smart Fortwo with a bike rack and the electrics are fed from inside the boot, it’s the official kit and connects with a small connector approx 15mm dia the cable then just sits through the boot gap through the rubber out to the bike rack. as said before you need someone who understands the canbus system so that it still functions. Like this https://cpc.farnell.com/mbs-connect/sp1311-p7iic/circular-in-line-plug-7-p-5-8mm/dp/CN21326?mckv=sqAqw3R2F_dc|pcrid|224645161149|kword||match||plid||slid||product|CN21326|pgrid|45968746254|ptaid|pla-833283892246|&CMP=KNC-GUK-CPC-SHOPPING&s_kwcid=AL!5616!3!224645161149!!!network}!833283892246!&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI1OCZkbTY8QIV5WDmCh3ZbAkCEAQYAyABEgKin_D_BwE

Probably strip and clean for the front ones, and chip off any built up corrosion curd stuff. Ford fixed by ford, excellent, my wort experience of driving through fords with a Ford was when my nice new Ford alloys got chipped by a submerged rock/big stone, very annoying, I still remember when we ever drive through that ford - not in my car though, only ever do that in wife's Polo!

One thing that could work wonders here, although I would not worry about that "scuffing" noise is, these short/smallish cars do not have a handbrake lever return spring mounted on the rear calliper, longer/bigger cars usually do have, I think that the logic with these cars is that the handbrake cable is short enough and low friction by design, so that the usual handbrake lever return spring is not really required as the calliper's internal return spring is strong enough to pull the handbrake lever fully back when the handbrake is released. Way back in maybe 2004ish, it was quite common for people owning mainly Fabias, to add an eternal spring to the rear calliper - there is probably still points on the handbrake lever and the calliper body that a spring can be fitted to - as in designed for that purpose, I bought and fitted springs to my wife's 2002 VW Polo and that worked very well. When she bought a new VW Polo in August 2015, again, I ordered in a pair of handbrake lever return springs, but with these later cars the internal calliper handbrake lever return spring seems to be strong enough to do that job - at least when the cars are new. Anyway I fitted these 2 springs just to avoid that scuffing issuing ever happening, and so far at 34.5K miles and almost 6 years it still works okay, but I remove the calliper from the carrier and clean everything up every year now, initially only every other year. If you are interested to buying external return springs, the springs that work best, in my mind/experience and I've tried the 2 available version, are :- LH Handbrake return spring 7M0 615 295 (from 1998 Sharan) – 1off RH Handbrake return spring 7M0 615 296 (from 1998 Sharan) – 1off Edit:- the other version of springs are from a VW Vento or Jetta - but I found that they were slightly too long/light so only added a slight amount of extra returning effort. Another Edit:- bear in mind that 1998 Sharan is a VW, SEAT also made their version so VW or SEAT dealership can order in these springs, Ford Galaxy also used them it seems.

Well, over the last couple of week, I've been watching the Tour de France, and it's quite noticeable just how many French roads outside town don't have a centre line and 2 side lines, which appears to be a prerequisite for "second guess you steer" to "work as advertised" at all. I think it's better to not even fit a "safety feature" than to fit one that works inconsistently.

vehicles with projector headlamps from the factory (like the RS & Monte Carlo) have an additional relay in the system to control the shutters for full beam / flash...........it seems the research around on the net is not quite telling the full story regarding fitting them. You would need to add a relay that is controlled by the "original" 12v feed that is live when you flash / select full beam on the stalk. The output of the relay would then go to the shutters to open them

No, the decision to reject is with the customer, who informs supplying dealer and gives list of faults. The dealer then has one chance to rectify them (all of them). One go, not multiple tries at fixing them. Either all the faults are sorted and no rejection happens, or dealer can only fix some, (or claims to need to try again as couldn’t do it) then the rejection can be automatic, and don’t even need to collect the faulty car. Some dealers will try and delay things and fob you off, but they are not following the law. Your contract with dealer is under consumer law and is completely separate from any commercial contract between the dealer and Skoda UK. If the dealer claims they need to await for approval from Skoda UK it is simple lie (they are legally unconnected, so not dependant on each other). How and when dealer gets reimbursed from Skoda UK is not your problem, and not relevant to your rejection timetable, because you are outside the commercial contract with Skoda UK.

If you own a Mercedes and can't tell the difference between it and the Kodiaq you either bought a Fiat dressed up like a Mercedes or perhaps you received one of the crash prototype test vehicles because if you can not tell the difference between them you don't have a real Mercedes !!! That I can guarantee you Partner.

There must be something special about Monte Carlo headlights aside from having poor light output and no headlamp flash function for you to have wanted to fit them, are they considered cool or something? Genuine question as your posting does not say why, perhaps it was an accident repair and you are fitting the only S/H lights that were available.

Nextbase 422, wire to oermznent supply with parking mode. Found the camera occasionally jammed up needing a rest due to some random firmware bug. Now wired without parking mode but with a 2 way switch fitted to the back of the driver glove box. Has 3 positions 1. Powered from rear wire circuit (on ignition) normal use 2. Off (not used) 3. Cigarette lighter circuit - permanent power (for supermarket carlpafks, street parking, etc, where people do hit and run - surprisingly regularly nowadays). This position is a power drainer.

No sunset this evening VID_20210709_213932.mp4

The only one I've found a bit tricky is XDS, on the Superb 2 at least it increases turn in quite a bit when it kicks in and you have to be ready to wind back the steering a little to stay on your line. Newer generations are probably more subtle.

The left strut was replaced on mine today. It looks like an updated part to the one it replaced. Seems to also be quieter. Just glad its fixed.

@jd29 I think you owe @langers2k some virtual beer tokens, but that aside good to see your efforts succeeded and got it all up and running again. Must be quite a relief to be able to reset your TPMS again too! Enjoy having VCDS, quite frankly it's the best diagnostic tool for any VW group enthusiast.

Thanks everyone. The dealership have agreed to have a look and, if necessary, report back to the factory. The two cracks are what worry me most as they look like they've potential to spread but we'll see what happens. I agree that its nice to see a bit of 'character' in the leather and it definitely smells real. Other than that and a small scuff on the edge of the driver's door, I'm delighted with the car. Its my third Superb and its very nice to be back in one again after a few years away.

Well, I don't think so. It looks more like that hide had a couple of barbed wire marks in a fairly visible position.

Now only trunk left for painting-tomorrow Will drove car to the paint shop-finally has hood so I can drive it. But we removed new rear wing and will let paint to settle and cure for at least one month before installation to avoid new laque compression and bubbles formation. Looks bald without any rear wing☹️☹️☹️☹️

Same thing happens in the back-trunk. There is a bracket With hadle and lock for it. When You lift the trunk holding it it also scratches the paint. Look at the pictures. Old factory bracket had small strip of sponge at the upper border. I thought about that and wantet to put also double sided tape and paint protection film at the bottom pressure points. But as I went to Porsche dealer in ETKA they offer protective strip-looks like old sponge strip and two small strips od PPF. Today I picked it up and it is real upgrade -full ruber insulation and two small PPF strips to go where it had damaged paint. Great OEM upgrade. I reccommend it to everyone.

From memory in the Kuga I fitted an Osram EU approved H15 blue tint bulb to reduce the yellowness. Personally if you can only replace the dipped beam bulb you are 95% there. The main beam bulb upgrade is more for show than necessity.

Sounds about right for Map2 on this engine, and I've seen up to 350 with custom Map6 settings if you can bother with tweaking and measuring. I remember there was a noticeable difference when I went from JB4 to REVO stage 1, not night and day but definitely a keener pickup and pulling all the way to the limiter, which also translated to better acceleration times. Was that difference over the JB4 worth the remap's cost? Not really unless you're a sucker for mods and have the power bug if I'm honest. Even less so if you consider the voided warranty with the remap. JB4 is a no brainer on these cars imo. I've stopped caring about dyno figures (curves are still nice to see and often rather telling of the map's quality), more relevant would be some 100-200kmh and 1/4 mile times if you could get your hands on a 10Hz GPS measuring device (DRAGY, RaceBox etc) if you'd like more context of how it fares against other stock cars.

Look the arrow, it points the Yellow ring that your thermostat sensor has.

It's been a while since I posted in this thread. Not much has changed other than new wheels. Genuine Porsche 987 alloys, 18x8 & 18x9 had them painted in a custom Porsche grey with loads of red flake so the colour changes drastically in the sun. So here's a few pictures to spam you with...

My car is in its 8th day at the dealers while they attempt - so far unsuccessfully - to fix the three seemingly software-related faults that I first notified them of 2 days after purchase. It is now 27 days old. Here in Australia we have similar laws to yours in the UK. In case anyone in Australia is reading this here are the relevant pages from the government site: https://www.accc.gov.au/update/just-bought-a-new-car https://www.accc.gov.au/consumers/consumer-rights-guarantees/consumer-guarantees I note that there does not appear to be any 30 day limit here. The pages only mention that the dealer has "a reasonable time". When I owned a Honda S2000 I several times had to wait 3 weeks for parts to arrive from Japan so I expect the situation of waiting for a software fix from Europe requires the same level of tolerance. But I do not intend to wait for ever.

BSD would be my choice, but do agree it can be grabby. Not the end of the world once you get the feel of the product. I have used Demon Shine..... mixed bucket of water and Demon Shine, Chuck it over the car and job done, but prefer the finish that BSD gives. Awesome beading

I've previously had good results with ValetPro Odour Enzyme Eater, comes as a concentrate so just needs to be diluted down in a sprayer with water

Wow, your benefit indeed!! I only have to pull a lever and the bar drops down which is a major boon for me as a caravan is our next big purchase and it’ll go well behind this