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Lovely sunset this evening..............

Which engine code is yours? If it is a CJZC or CJZD then carry on reading. Yes the mechanical water pump and thermostat housing is on the other side of the engine to the cambelt. There is also a second water pump but that is an electric pump. Quote from EA 211 TSI Engine service training manual:- ''The thermostat housing is installed on the cylinder head on the gearbox side. The coolant pump has been integrated into the thermostat housing to produce the most compact cooling system design possible. The coolant pump is driven by the exhaust camshaft using a toothed belt.'' The part number on the Gates website appears to be correct but their image of the bits is wrong? https://gatesautocat.com/v/skoda/fabia/powergrip®-kit-+-waterpump/gates/kp25680xs-2.html Spark plugs due at 40 000 miles and air filter at 60 000 miles. Headlamp bulb would indicate you have the projector type front lights with four H7 headlamp bulbs. I use no throttle when starting the car from stationary. Thanks, AG Falco

Replaced the chrome badges with black and removed those L+K doodles from the sides. Had it ceramic coated for lasting shine.

Pics before the rain corrupts her!

Last week I retrofitted a VC to my Superb 2.0 tdi MY18. Because the info on this subject is scattered all over this and other forums I decided to bundle it into a how-to. First of all a big thank you to RomanB, langers2k, Richie2019 and Camarao69 for the help with coding and with finding the correct parts. Before you start, make sure your car is able to do the retrofit. As I understand it, you will need a Mib 2.5 and also the correct gateway to be able to have a map display in the VC. If the part number of your gateway starts with 3Q0 it should work. Maybe also with other part numbers, but you will have to check. You can check the part number of your gateway with VCDS. What about Amundsen? I have read that with certain types of Amundsen it should also be able to show maps on VC. But coding is a bit different. And, as I don’t have Amundsen, I can’t really tell. I ordered the VC on ali: https://nl.aliexpress.com/item/1005001320853346.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.27424c4dWnYaQ3 This VC comes with the optical MOST cable you will need for display of maps on the VC. Before you order, send the seller a message and ask for a discount. Also ask for him to declare a lower value (+/- 100 dollar) to customs. I paid around 60 euro import tax based on this value. If you have the CANTON sound system, you will need a Most splitter. https://nl.aliexpress.com/item/1005001590588805.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.27424c4dWnYaQ3 Or https://nl.aliexpress.com/item/33003652246.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.27424c4dysj90l (about the MOST splitters: I ordered both, but you will only need one of them. The first link looked like the better quality item, but it had 2 male connectors and 1 female. What you need is 1 male and 2 female connectors. The VC came with a spare female connector, so I used this spare connector to convert the splitter into 1 male and 2 female. It’s easy, just mind the arrows on the connector. They depict the data stream direction. The item from the second link is ready to be installed and does not need to changed. However just eyeballing it, it did not look as good as the one in the first link.) Vag audio removal tools: You need 4 pieces. https://nl.aliexpress.com/item/1005001502327510.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.61f03aa8VhZ892&algo_pvid=87f048ac-c0af-469f-a3a5-aa59929ac254&algo_expid=87f048ac-c0af-469f-a3a5-aa59929ac254-0&btsid=0bb0624716157231348261767efc60&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_,searchweb201603_ Trim removal tools: https://nl.aliexpress.com/item/32963954415.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.477d61553u3Dn4&algo_pvid=40621dfe-6b26-4916-954e-3a1a0de8cdfc&algo_expid=40621dfe-6b26-4916-954e-3a1a0de8cdfc-0&btsid=0bb0623d16157232258103800e5d6b&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_,searchweb201603_ And a Vas5054a for pairing the keys to the cluster via remote coding. Links to a Vas5054a come and go. They don’t work for long. Look on ali and read the reviews. Disregard complaints about the software as you will not need to install it. Often there are choices in quality. Choose the best one available. Bluetooth is not necessary, I just used a usb cable. And you will also need a windows laptop. I also ordered a screen protector for the mib 2.5 and for the VC. Just to protect them while do the installation: https://nl.aliexpress.com/item/32931529165.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.27424c4dtJsu3p and https://nl.aliexpress.com/item/1005001805982326.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.27424c4dtJsu3p And of course you will also need a VCDS-cable or a similar device. Wait until the parts arrive and, in the meantime, find an online coding service for pairing the keys to new cluster, remove component protection and to set the odometer to the correct setting. I used: Vag retrofit and Coding. Telegram: https://t.me/vagretrofit Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/vagretrofitcoding/ Cost: 75 euro for 2 keys and 100 euro for 3 keys. Maybe there are cheaper/better alternatives, but this worked for me. The VAS 5054a comes with software. You do not have to install this software for use with a online coding service. You will only need to install TeamViewer. Before you start tinkering: Make an autoscan with VCDS and save the log to your computer. This saved my ass, because after the online coding of the VC, my sunroof lost it’s coding. With the autoscan available it was easy to fix. I also made screenshots from every byte of my old cluster, using the long coding helper (example, of just one byte, below) With this, it’s easier to setup the VC. See the service manual how to unclip the various trim parts. There is a certain sequence in releasing the clips. Before I used the online coding service, I installed the MOST cable. It was a pain. The wires behind the Mib unit in the glovebox were too short. So I needed to dismount the entire glovebox to get access.I connected the MOST splitter to the existing MOST cable and the new MOST cable. Removed the Mib headunit and old cluster to pull the new MOST cable in place. If you don’t have CANTON there may be a protective cover over the MOST connector on the Mib. After you have pulled the MOST cable into position, reconnect your Mib headunit. It needs to be connected while the online coding is being done. This it to remove component protection. Also reconnect your old cluster. You will need it connected at the start of online coding. I also tested my audio, just to be sure it was working after the MOST splitter install. A video which gives an idea how to remove the cluster: (the screws are behind the left and right trim parts. Not under the center one) A picture from pulling the cable: After all this you can start with the online coding process. Have all you keys readily available. It took 2 full hours in my case. When you install the VC, make sure to remove the grey protector in the MOST connector on the VC: After the online coding you can start your car, but your dash will light up with faults because of the lack of coding. Coding the cluster: I now took all my screenshots of the long coding from my old cluster to code the VC. Just one note: Leave Byte 0 bit 1 unchecked. It will give an ‘’entry out of range” error message if you try to code it. After you coded everything in, the error messages will disappear. Just take caution with your fuel gauge and make sure it is accurate so you don’t run out of fuel. My fuel gauge tends to read fuller than with the old cluster so I don’t trust it yet and may change the coding on it. Coding 5F (mib): Long coding: Uncheck byte 22 bit 0: Make sure MOST is on (for non CANTON cars) Byte 19 bit 5 Adaptation (5F): For imaging through MOST: - ENG122230-ENG142097-Dashboard_Display_Configuration-ability_switch_nav_maps,OFF - ENG122230-ENG122343-Dashboard_Display_Configuration-call_picture,On - ENG122230-ENG122341-Dashboard_Display_Configuration-coverart,On - ENG122230-ENG122340-Dashboard_Display_Configuration-crossroad_detail_map_compression_mode,H264 - ENG122230-ENG122344-Dashboard_Display_Configuration-crossroad_detail_map_resolution,resolution_3 - ENG122230-ENG127006-Dashboard_Display_Configuration-crossroad_detail_map_transmission_mode,MOST_streaming - ENG122230-ENG142153-Dashboard_Display_Configuration-dynamic_icon,0 - ENG122230-ENG127501-Dashboard_Display_Configuration-fastlist_most,On - ENG122230-ENG122338-Dashboard_Display_Configuration-navigation_map_compression_mode,H264 - ENG122230-ENG122339-Dashboard_Display_Configuration-navigation_map_resolution,resolution_3 - ENG122230-ENG127005-Dashboard_Display_Configuration-navigation_map_transmission_mode,MOST_streaming - ENG122230-ENG122342-Dashboard_Display_Configuration-stationart,On For the Virtual Cockpit menu on the MIB: - IDE11524-ENG137043-Vehicle function list bap 2nd generation: expansion-display_configuration_0x45, Activated - IDE11524-ENG137044-Vehicle function list bap 2nd generation: expansion-display_configuration_0x45_msg_bus, Comfort data bus - ENG122227-ENG142087-Car_Function_Adaptations_Gen2-menu_display_Display_Configuration, Activated - ENG122227-ENG142088-Car_Function_Adaptations_Gen2-menu_display_Display_Configuration_clamp_15_off, Not Activated - ENG122227-ENG142089-Car_Function_Adaptations_Gen2-menu_display_Display_Configuration_over_threshold_high, Activated - ENG122227-ENG142090-Car_Function_Adaptations_Gen2-menu_display_Display_Configuration_standstill, Not Activated - ENG122227-ENG142091-Car_Function_Adaptations_Gen2-menu_display_Display_Configuration_after_disclaimer, Not Activated Now restart the MIB. (hold power button until it reboots) You now have the normal dial VC: If you want to have the carbon look: 17 – instrument, adaptation: - IDE12467-Tubes illustration, Variant 3 - IDE02489-Display depiction, Variant 1 or 3 (can’t remember which one) If you want to change the end value of your speedometer because of reasons: 17 – instrument, adaptation: IDE13094-Tachometer end value. I used setting Variant 1 for 280kmph. Might be different for MPH. Trim Piece I needed I new trim piece which is now on order. As I understood the partnumber you need can be easily obtained. Note the partnumber on the white label of your old trim piece. In my case 3V0 857 053 N77. N77 is the colour code for my trim piece. To obtain the part nr for the new trim piece just add an ‘A’ after 053. So in my case: 3V0 857 053A N77 is the part nr for the new trim piece. There is also the possibility to fit new MFSW buttons with a VIEW button. - 3V0 919 719 E (manual) - 3V0 919 719 F (DSG) - 3V0 919 719 G (manual + heated) - 3V0 919 719 H (DSG + heated) I've been told that DSG versions work in manual cars and that heated versions work without heated wheels. I did not fit these buttons yet so I do not know if these part numbers are fully correct. If there are any omissions or errors please do tell. Also feel free to add more adaptations.

0-60 often looks so much quicker & sounding better than the 0-62 mph times given. Like with my car 0-60 7.6 seconds and 0-62 8.1 seconds. (I have Draggy so know what it can actually do, empty, loaded, on hot roads or cold roads) There are EV's that are slugs or just given poorer figures to help with insurance. Then there are cars from the factory with really crap ECO tyres that spin and then the ESR / TC comes in. Amazing what better grippy tyres can do and put TC off so no power cut is happening. PS Cables lock in most cars if the car is locked and tethered cables or your own cable used to charge AC are different matters. Models come in different flavours, different performances and with different insurance groups.

Ooh! That What Car article has highlighted a point I'd thought about before but failed to consider in this post: Stealing an electric car without simply grabbing it onto a low-loader can be a tricky prospect. That said, stealing one for bits might be a very lucrative business. (God bless those poor Honda Jazz owners trying to hang onto their catalytic convertors.)

They might be fast accelerating but not all are given that quick 0-62 mph by the manufactures and that is helping keep the insurance group low. Some heavy lumps are not that quick anyway, and they are limited as top speed. Some get pretty cheap insurance for EV's but then that is true with ICE vehicles. New EV's are pretty loaded with 'safety features'. That might reduce accidents, but increase repair costs. The market gets to know what the actual risks are and the cost of repairs. http://whatcar.com/advice/owning/are-electric-cars-more-expensive-to-insure/n18043 http://drivingelectric.com/your-questions-answered/53/are-electric-cars-expensive-to-insure

40 kWh Leaf and now ID.3 Tour. No dearer than a 170CR 4x4 Yeti L&K (£247)

The idle is perfect at 750rpm. Most other card I have owned have been pretty much the same. It might be worth purchasing obdeleven and you can do a DSG adaption, which should smooth out the changes. The DQ250 can be a bit clunky on the diesel as mine is the VRS 184ps like yours. It is best to let of the brake pedal and allow the car to move forward then apply the accelerator.

BMN you say...? Does it have the original inlet manifold with swirl flaps? If so, at that age it's most likely well and truly knackered. The flaps stick and break up. In extremis, they get sucked into the inlet with disastrous results. Also, the spindle bushes at each end of the manifold wear and leak oil and boost pressure. The cure is to replace the manifold with a BKD one, without the flaps. You can either source one from a breaker and get the required gasket and bolts or buy the complete kit from Darkside Developments. https://www.darksidedevelopments.co.uk/products/ppd170-used-bkd-aluminium-inlet-manifold-conversion-kit.html

Yes they have serviced it, this is what they have done I may check a few of these things as for instance I believe the cambelt and water pumps are at different ends of the engine.

Yeah mine pulls like a train. Road was a bit wet the other day and I got wheelspin in 3 rd gear it's never done that before. Shame your not closer, we could compare cars? Trev

There’s a massive difference in mileage between these two. This vRS from your search is at the top end of your budget but … VRS Octavias are great!

I don't think the idle speed is a problem, it really does sound normal to me. I'd be a bit concerned at a car idling at under 600RPM, TBH. That said, I don't know about the lurching forward. I've only test-driven a DSG vRS TDI, and it was pretty civilised setting off, no lurching at all.

It sounds normal to me. What sort of idle RPM were you expecting?

Windowlene was fantastic, bicarb paste is a great suggestion. I use prestone screenwash it's brilliant I've heard great things about the VW screenwash. I'm using the prestone in a 9:1 mixture.

You are right on the money. I changed the blower today. As for the regas I've never done it. It's time for sure. Thank you very much for your concern help and time.

Spoke to the dealer - they were really up front and said there are issues - and the octy isn’t the only one plagued with them. The Enyaq has loads of issues too

It is more responsive in sport mode but I am now past the need to drive on the limit. For 99% of the time drive mode is fine and I like to use eco mode on the long trips we do between Leeds and Norwich every few weeks now. It definitely does better mpg in eco mode topping out at about 51mpg for the 170 mile trip. You don’t need sport mode on fast dual c’way or motorways. The car is at the speed limit comfortably faster than most from a standing start and then illegal to go faster anyway. Once on slower A roads towards Lincolnshire and Norfolk there are virtually no places to safely overtake now anyway with speed cameras all over the place. If I was looking for a sporty car there are others much more suitable out there?

I have a 190ps tdi and I will still knock back into sport mode for overtaking, pulling out of dodgy junctions, anticipating the need to accelerate quickly after braking for a sharp bend etc. It transforms the response by telling the car to prepare to accelerate rather than average to poor response depending on the car in drive or eco mode settings. So quick and easy to do and I find it better than using the paddles and going into manual for a bit. Immediately the overtaking, junction exit achieved, or car is accelerating as needed I go back to drive mode or eco mode again.

Just thought I'd point out the bulb isn't some difficulty specific bulb for the DRLs but it's basically a standard reverse/indicator bulb as I found out when I went to buy one.

Yeah I noticed its sitting higher in the back again lol. Definately lots better to drive but thats mostly the difference in the front suspension. Already had rear springs and there doesnt seem to be much difference between the rear springs themselves driving it.

That vacuum fault could very possibly be significant - I'd certainly try to get to the bottom of it if it's still in the system.

@Bogart Maybe all the same 1.4 TSI Euro 6 with 150ps but what about the wheel (tyre) size for each you are looking at. Matters not really as the cars got that Urban Fuel Consumption inside a building on a rolling road and that will not be how you drive places.

I'm not sure that my post was clear. It is net relevant that 99 octane fuel is E5 or E 10. 99 octane will give better economy than 95 octane E5. 95 octane E5 may give better economy that 95 octane E10. If you try to compare 99octane E5 with 95 octane E10 and economy gets worse, is it due to the decrease in octane rating or the extra ethanol. You have changed two parameters and you don't know how much each parameter change has affected economy. Also, with the confusion at present, I'm not sure anyone actually knows what fuel they have in their tank. So speculation about economy is probably pointless.

Excellent reply, thanks for your input. I suppose my post initially lacks some context. My car knowledge is novice at best, but from what I have read online using a purely objective view, my conclusions were that the Octavia Estate (diesel) would suit us best. My reasons: 1) I commute 70 miles a day for work (I've driven 13,000-17,000 miles a year over the last 3 years) 2) We go on family day trips at least twice a month driving at least 100-200 miles on a weekend 3) Relatively good value for money relative to other cars (from the online research I've done) 4) I thoroughly enjoyed test driving the VRS, has a nicer feel than the standard 1.6L TDI diesel (Mainly the acceleration, interior, and steering wheel 😅) 5) I have access to a Honda Jazz that I do occasionally drive, but going to have two under two, I prefer to have a bit more space in the back for two rear facing child seats as well as the bootspace. On another semi-related point on why I'm dropping £20k on a car. I've been pretty frugal all my life, and I'm in a position where I have more than enough disposable income to afford a nicer car. Very irrational point - I mentally don't want to spend £40k-60k on a car because I don't feel like it's good value for money. This is partly why I am asking for advice if it's worth splurging extra £1000s for an upgrade. I could just chuck the difference in an index fund, but who knows how much joy a VRS could add to my daily commute :P

I am reading this on a phone so no idea which engine or gearbox the OP is about. What engine and gearbox has it. Is it one with a DQ200 twin dry clutch 7 speed DSG or a wet clutch DSG and how many miles has it done? EDIT, I see it might be a ,2019 1.5 TSI. So best get it to a dealership for a diagnosis. There is a TPI for a software update on some DQ200,s and you want to check on this. ? Then also the 1.5 TSI software updates. Has the car had this carried out?

You can't, you can only do it with the key in the lock.

Yeah just to balance this a little, I have had my vrs since January and it's been perfect (other than dealer leaving transport blocks in ...). I pop back on here from time to time to see if there is anything interesting and see a lot of complaints, but I guess most people who are happy with their car won't come to this forum. I'm not trying to belittle the problems some people are having at all (sounds like a nightmare for some), just to offer some balance.

Very understandable that you have concerns though it is worth remembering that forums such as this are used to moan and complain, or ask questions - rarely to say how wonderful a car is. Thus you'll be getting a biased view. That isn't to downplay the issues though - my car, bought in March as as ex-demo at six month old, has [frustratingly] been with the dealer since mid-april at the request of Skoda UK. It has the infamous kph/mph issue which is a matter of compliance with UK regulations as I understand it. I am told a fix in being tested on a couple of cars in the UK ahead of a wider roll-out in due course. How long that will be I have no idea. To counter that disappointment & frustration, the loan car provided by the same dealer/Skoda UK is also an Octavia Mk4, registered in January '21. I have driven over 6000 miles and it has been 100% fault free. It is a SE First Edition spec so doesn't have ACC or Traffic Assist, both of which have ongoing issues. The Octavia Mk4 is a lovely car to drive, quiet, comfortable and economical - and with an enormous boot, which from your comment is what you're looking at it. Several on here have rejected their cars, I and a few others are hanging on in there awaiting the fix from Skoda UK whilst loading the loan/hire car with mileage. Should you buy or avoid an Octavia Mk4 - your call. Basically, it is a great car but it may test your patience and tolerance if your motor suffers with the well documented issues/niggles.

Cancel the test drive. You're going to enter a world of pain if you buy one of these cars. I created this thread more than three months ago and Skoda are yet to fix any of the faults. My own rejected MK4 is still sat in a wasteland compound out the back of the dealership, untouched. I cannot stress enough that the Octavia MK4 is not worthy of your money or the stress it will cause you.

Another idea against the sloppy gear stick: Sadly there is no shot before the repair

I'd send them a letter saying that you intend to reject and I would do it today. Hand them the letter in by hand and email a PDF to them and to your finance company (if you used one). It's vitally important that this is not only done in writing but traceable to a precise date and time. It's soon enough after purchase that you should still be entitled to a full refund but only if you act very quickly. Even if they manage to fix all of your issues (and that is a really big if), your car will forever be known as one of "those" cars from the early days which were prone to various problems and it will have an impact on the resale value of your car down the line. When I rejected mine, that consideration played a fairly major part. Note that if you're within the first 30 days, you don't need to allow them a chance to repair and you're entitled to a full refund. After 30 days, they get one chance to fix it and the value of your refund might go down. For more info (Note that I didn't use these guys but this was the first result on google) https://www.nelsonslaw.co.uk/can-i-reject-a-car/

Rescue and emergency services do not rely on W3W, but will use whatever data the caller can give them. If W3W is the location system the caller has, it gets used. W3W is millennials re-branding a concept and thinking they have another new idea again. The better system in the UK is still the OS 6 or 8 figure grid reference as it places you precisely on a ubiquitous mapping system that is used by all rescue services. It is always available with no reliance on batteries or signals as it is carried in paper form very easily. Anyone out on the hills should carry the OS map for area and know how to use it. Sadly technology has made folks think this is obsolete. Instead of W3W app, folks should have the OS Locate app on their phone, which generates the exact grid reference of the location. I have used it to summon an ambulance to a remote road. They found us quickly and with no confusion.

Hi Asmwyz This is my advice. Others will surely have differing views. My short answer to "Do I really need a Skoda Octavia vRS?" title, is no. A vRS is a very rewarding car to drive quickly and I find just getting into one is a small pleasure in itself. (Not that I have one. ) However, almost every cost associated with your car will be increased if you buy a vRS. Without being judgy, why are you looking at blowing up to £20K with a kid on the way? Especially when you seem to know very little about cars. Are you sure you need an estate? The hatch has pretty much the same size boot, though you don't get the very useful roof bars. A quick search of Autotrader turned up this. I think a car like this would be a better choice for you in your circumstances than a vRS. But an equivalent estate could probably found at around the same price, if you're set on having an estate. I suggest a vehicle like this car (not necessarily this particular example, just an Octavia like this) because:- The highly regarded and excellent 1.4 engine is great in the Octavia: Economic, powerful and arguably "better" than the 1.5 that replaced it. The automatic will be easy and rewarding to drive, and the recent VAG DSGs are excellent. Don't be put off by scare stories, the DSG is great. The SE ties in with the spec you are looking for. Talk it through with your wife. She may well be happy to go along with whatever you decide because she loves and trusts you, but she will undoubtedly have her own ideas about what she wants & needs from the family car. Good luck, and try not to over-think it. Trust your gut, and don't trust the salesman.

TBH I wasn't there and may wrongly be taking your side, but . . . I'm sure the dealer will say he (usually a he to do this sort of thing) did. If it's a third party warranty you might still be in a cooling-off period from signing for it. The salesman will have made commission from selling you this product, if he mis-sold it he's in trouble so will happily let you, or even help you, cancel it (if you're in time). - https://www.moneyhelper.org.uk/en/everyday-money/buying-and-running-a-car/car-warranties This is another bit I don't like - perhaps an Italian tune-up would do it the power of good as these cars tend to get clogged from all the 'town use' and if the car battery is low the computers don't like it and can throw all sorts of wobblies, the stop/start system and battery management systems are very invasive over the rest of the car too. Drive it like a petrol car and not a diesel car, having said that you can't drive a modern diesel car the way you could previously or the computers and DPF will give you extra problem over petrol. Obviously not the same torque but they go well, the Monte Carlo is the (81kW) 108/110 hp engine and according to the Driver's Handbook has (175Nm) 130 ft lb at 1,400-4,000 rpm and 81kW (108hp) at 4,600-5,600. With me driving and my wife as passenger (no luggage) I found the car goes well at all the speed limits. I've got the tyres pumped up to the Eco setting which really does reduce the rolling resistance which must help with fuel economy and might help with the coasting to charge the battery(?) but does nothing to improve the car's handling. Let us know how you get on

I was deeply impressed with their service AND product. Don't forget the line-up pins are sacrificial, and collapse inside the badges as you push firmly home.

Always worth giving each corner of the car a good downward shove, if the shock has completely gone the corner will bounce up n down more than once. With the shock, it should just come back up and down once. Old school check, and wont indicate a partially worm shock, but it will indicate one that is shot.

I meant 215/60/16 tyres

I understand and I'm sorry you're having a tough time, I wasn't trying to be rough but replacing the cam is a big job and you'll need some special tools to lock it all up. You also need to worry about why the cam needs replacing, it's usually down to the wrong oil used in an oil change, first thing you need to do is see how much metal glitter there is in the sump, if a lot comes out with the oil then you might be better off just swapping out the whole engine.

Its all good mate and there are some really knowledgeable guys on this site they have got me out of the fens pools duck pond a few times haha you will know what that means

You will be able to do it, you clearly have the aptitude having tackled what you already have without any prior knowledge or experience. The most important asset you have is that you knew to ask for advice before starting, that is something it has taken me a lifetime to acquire, when I was young I truly believed that I knew everything. Good luck with it and don't hesitate to stop and ask if you come across something that you are unsure of.

The independent place that I take mine has access to the VAG system to view and update the service record. The paper copy I receive from them is identical to the dealer copy.

I totally agree. The car can distinguish between drivers according to which key is being used, so it should default to the previous setting unless there is a new driver at the wheel. I believe that it's an EU requirement, but now that we are no longer in the EU then the rules should be changed.

i think its dangerous tbh don't like it at all and you should be able to disable the feature..

scaffolds base plate mate ....simple light and strong

Hi Dean, I do have some photo's of it, I'll dig them out, would you believe I'll probably have to scan them, time moves too quickly.. Regards

Hi DeanvRS, I'm not sure whether it's still valid now as I no longer own it but back in late Spring 2004 I specced a black magic vRS with all options possible, if I recall the base car was £15,880 but with options I think it was £19,200. This had Sat Nav & maxidot, registration = LN54 SFZ. Regards Pete

My TDI Mk4 VRS, in love with the colour!