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Made the trip down to Morzine. Superb didn’t skip a beat, in fact was going a bit too well and I coped a €90 fine for speeding.

I think you mean "OEM -"?

Just to add, my Leaf costs about the same as my Octavia, both in insurance and cost to purchase. Leaf is 1 year younger. For servicing, Leaf handbook just says need to change brake fluid and pollen filter. So I DIY'd them myself and I've never spent a penny servicing the Leaf at any garage (after PCP free servicing deal ran out a few years ago).

Mine has got 20” wheels, and like yours doesn’t have different ride settings. The ride is as firm as I expected for an suv type vehicle. In actual fact, it’s not as firm as I feared it might be. I would have been happier with 19”s but the car was already built with 20’s. The wheels/tyres on these cars are heavy, and the only suspension for that weight is the tyre itself, also the suspension for the car has to be capable of safely getting a thing the size of a van or 4x4 around corners at car speeds, so you’re always going to get a firm ride. I guess the answer is the more expensive model with different suspension settings. Having said that, it’s worth checking the tyre pressures are correct and the transport blocks have been removed. You wouldn’t be the first person to get a new car that hadn’t been prepared properly….

Instead of Alok Sharma MP flying around the world he should maybe get in a EV with Grant Shapps MP and drive around the UK in an EV. Best they do no not take Grants Tesla but some car that they will charge only at public chargers on the Tesla Supercharger network.

Re. Servicing or battery repair or replacement. (We know many cars do not have paper Service Books anymore.) Main Dealers, Independent Specialists, Mobile Maintenance people. More trained techs are about all the time. Now Collages are doing the courses and even working with Main Dealers or Motor Groups in their area getting apprentices trained or people up-skilling. http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/481729-ev-service-costs 3 year old vid.

Regen braking works with the motor regening / retarding the speed. My brake discs are red with rust as i hardly ever use the brakes and neither does the car when i am using the regen to slow the car. The Battery life at a period of time is covered by a guarantee, different years for different manufacturers and pecentage of battery after so many years, like 8 years. Many clueless salespeople of new and used EV's around. Even ones that are driving them as their daily, and need do nothing other than charge them at their work place so know little about the charger network. Little about much to do other than drive the demonstrator for 3 months / 3,000 miles and keep it looking good for when it is sold as an 'Ex Management car'. You need to be aware of cars that do not have CCS rapid charging because of the age or type. Not all need it if they just want to charge at home or work and maybe do low miles. Or if on trips know charging will take longer.

Ours suffers occasionally with same symptoms, and originally only after swapping from my wifes to my driving position (She is 5 foot 2 & I'm 6 foot 3), but never after changing from mine to hers. I have captured video & scans of it occurring and the list of error codes is horrendous and hits almost all systems making it pretty much impossible to tie down to 1 ecu on any of the many affected sub-systems. Now it is starting to happen when I make a minor adjustment to my seat position whilst driving. For our issue, my thoughts are that its an issue with the under seat harnesses or one of the several components or ECU's under there. So once we get back from our hol's in Italy in a week or so I'm going to have a careful poke around among the under seat harnesses to see if I can force the failure and hopefully get some direction to solving it. Will let you know if I get anywhere.

If you are reading this post do not despair! The horrible burning smell coming from your new diesel car is OK. When you stop and turn the engine off and the fan stays on and the engine seems to be super hot, the car is OK. The above are clear signs of an active DPF regeneration and is normal for your new diesel Skoda car. To comply with the latest emission levels diesels have to capture the large soot particles and burn them up into smaller particles which are kept in the DPF, this process is called regeneration. A lot of regenerations take place during normal driving where the exhaust is hot enough to burn the soot in the DPF and are unnoticed and are known as passive regeneration. When the temperature in the DPF is not hot enough for an passive regeneration, the ECU injects diesel into the DPF which burns up the soot and is known as an active regeneration. When you stop the car part way through an active regeneration, often the car smells like it's burning and the engine fan will stay on to cool the car. Mods could you please edit this thread (if needed) and make it a sticky or just delete, thanks

Various manuals available to download here:

This seems to come up pretty frequently so here are a few screenshots to show the process. First step is to download the maps to your computer, you have three choices: - download from Skoda - download from VW - use MartiniB's direct links The direct links are easiest and updated quite quickly, these are probably the latest, updated Nov '22: https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/508188-amundsen-mib2-map-updates-20232024 Warning: The full Europe maps no longer fit on a 16GB card without modification. The smaller ECE 1-7 versions should be fine Bit more info regarding which files to delete can be found here: https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/498473-amundsen-mib2-map-updates-202223/?do=findComment&comment=5592747 Downloading maps (Skoda) Goto https://updateportal.skoda-auto.com/ and enter your VIN. Choose whichever maps you'd like. For this guide, I choose the European maps. Click download and wait until they are on your computer. Copying the maps to your SD card (Skoda) Once the download has completed, we can copy the maps to your SD card. - Remove the SD card from your car and make sure the 'lock' tab is in the unlock position (it should be in the position that's closest to the gold/silver contacts) - Then plug the SD card into your computer - Optional step, you can copy the files from the SD card as a backup if you'd like. I don't bother but it's your call. Start 'File Explorer' and find your SD card. In my case it shows up as D:\ but it could be another letter on your computer. Right click on the SD card and select format. People have differing options on the format options, you can see what I used below. Once the format is complete, right click on the maps you downloaded earlier and select 'Extract All...' from the submenu. You need to change the destination folder to match your SD card. In my case it's 'D:\' but you may need 'E:\', 'F:\' etc. Click 'Extract'. And wait! Time will depend on your computer and SD card slot. When it's complete, right click and eject the SD card. Not all computers will show this option. You can now remove the SD from your computer and slide the 'lock' tab is in the lock position (it should be in the position that's furthest from the gold/silver contacts). Downloading maps (VW) Goto https://app-connect.volkswagen.com/mapupdates/car/#download and select 'Golf' then 'Golf from 2017' then 'Discover Media'. There are various options but that should be fine for the MIB2/MIB2.5 Amundsen. Click download and wait until they are on your computer. Copying the maps to your SD card (VW) You'll need to install some extra software called 7-Zip to use the VW maps, it's freely available from: https://www.7-zip.org/ Once the download has completed, we can copy the maps to your SD card. - Remove the SD card from your car and make sure the 'lock' tab is in the unlock position (it should be in the position that's closest to the gold/silver contacts) - Then plug the SD card into your computer - Optional step, you can copy the files from the SD card as a backup if you'd like. I don't bother but it's your call. Start 'File Explorer' and find your SD card. In my case it shows up as D:\ but it maybe another letter on your computer. Right click on the SD card and select format. People have differing options on the format options, you can see what I used below. Once the format is complete, right click on the maps you downloaded earlier and select 'Extract files...' from the 7-Zip submenu. You need to change the 'Extract to:' to match your SD card. In my case it's 'D:\' but you may need 'E:\', 'F:\' etc. You should also uncheck the tick-box if ticked as below. Click OK. And wait! Time will depend on your computer and SD card slot. When it's complete, right click and eject the SD card. Not all computers will show this option. You can now remove the SD from your computer and slide the 'lock' tab is in the lock position (it should be in the position that's furthest from the gold/silver contacts).

Polestar are doing a Roadshow next week to allow people to have a good look around the Precept before it's officially released. More photos to follow after the event.

Apologies if this has already been asked, but does anyone know is E10 ok to run in a 2002 VRS Octy? My local station switched over this week, going by a list someone posted on a VW forum the 1.8T should be ok, but I'd rather be sure. Thanks in advance

what is that showing me ??? I doubt the drag decrease is that measurable, probably is in a wind tunnel, but out on the track.................naaaa.

Not normal no, but legal if the wiper is either driver's side or a 150 degree arc conversion.

Yeah I paid £29.99 and got the latest maps. Either way a huge saving on the Skoda pricing. I don’t think they stock them as the maps would go out of date before they are sold so I think they are made to order hence the ridiculous price equivalent to a couple of hours of Labour.

I'll let you know how I get on !

Reviews have reported the Enyaq as quite stiff. I have DCC on my Kodiaq, love it, and will get it on an Enyaq if I buy one.

Wow, you must be ancient! I can't remember if I've even driven on cross ply but I do remember in about 1978 or 9 as an 18 year-old doing a quick turn off a 30mph road into a street that was very uphill and a remould tyre going instantly flat. From then on I had good tyres and never remoulds or retreads and never part worn, no matter what certification they might have. My car now is a 1973 rwd so I like to have good tyres but you can't get really good tyres in the size I want so I'm used to compromises and for decades now modern cars have made up for my inadequacies as a driver. Good and really good tyres make a big and very noticeable difference to a live rear axle drive and the same for other types and modern cars but the difference is less noticeable with the chassis design and/or the electronics flattering the driver's errors, and even though I'm an old male I am not a good driver, though I am rare in actually stating such.

My service schedule booklet states that the belt should be 'inspected' at 90,000 km (60,000 miles), there is nothing at all stated about changing it. It suggests at least 75,000 without any worry and thousands of miles more after further inspections. My own opinion is that it's a money making opportunity for dealers and garages. I had a Fat Strada that did in excess of 250,000 miles without any attention, on the original belt..

Correction, as @e-Roottoot points out, it was finished on 18th May. It may have been parked somewhere waiting for chips. Check the date codes on the tyres, wheels and other parts.

@RobMac1, shall keep you posted! The amp just came from a breakers - it’s a little knocked around but (apparently) tested in good working order; it’s off a Superb but they’re the same part so nothing to go wrong there.

I would advise taking the undertray off yes, more space for your right arm.

Sounds cheap compared to here, but possibly doesn't include water pump at that price? I paid £350 7 years ago at a UK VW dealership, and that was a special offer. Did include WP though.

Hi!

Here is a pic of a new rear disc on a Superb where you can see the machining marks

There's a plastic cover over the upper portion of the timing belts that releases with just two metal clips if I remember rightly. Remove and inspect visually (photograph and post) , though you may not be able to tell very much from that. These are about 7 years old, I think, and maybe 40-50k km since fitting.

Skoda UK and Skoda Dealers say OK. But in the UK you can at least buy Super Unleaded and get E5 or even Super Unleaded without Ethanol from some Retailers.

My calculator says, that on UK service schedule, the belt is past due. If it's like other FWD engines I've seen you'll need a trolley jack or a hoist because you have to remove an engine mount to change the timing belt. It may be safer to get an independent specialist to do this. I honestly can't think of much you've not covered on a manual transmission car.

And neither of them are allowed to appear on Tv whilst doing this!

Have you or the previous owner(s) been using auxiliaries of high electrical consumption, inverter running four separate lots of computer screens with heated or cooled drink containers, or things like heated seats, mirrors, windows running full-time at full blast, a commercial kitchen from the boot, anything that might draw a lot of electric, or a very small amount but constantly or over very long periods when the alternator isn't running? I'm in the habit of being very thrifty with car electrics, I turning all electric off (that the car allows) before I turn the engine off and turn nothing electrical on (that the car allows) until the engine is running. I think a coin slot-meter for the car's electrics would help some, not a smart meter but money from the pocket or purse. Good luck, let us know how you get on.

Check for a further character beyond the 601 on the disc. Also, see what it says after "min".

Joy of joys.

How do I update all new logos into the unit? The instructions on the update portal say to change each radio stations logo in turn from the source media. I don't want to keep plugging in the usb drive each time I have a blank logo if there is a better way of doing it. Thanks.

The problem with the present one may be something external like a blown fuse or broken wire, I've seen a few threads where such a wiring fault caused this communication error, including a recent one. I would disconnect the connector from the module and methodically start to check all supply connections. I'll research pin numbers for you now. You may well see a part number on the ECU/module near to the connector,

I remember seeing somebody in Russia having done this before; they maybe a post elsewhere on this forum on how to do the changeover. However, I would strongly recommend NOT doing this - not because I suspect you want the latest equipment on your car - but because of the "scroll" wheels on a MK4 Octavia. They are genuinely useless and what will happen is that every time you turn the steering wheel, you will end up knocking the scroll button with your hand and will activate a function (which is annoying and frankly dangerous). In MK4 land, it activates LAURA (the next generation of Skoda's useless voice connectivity) - on the MK3's (if you ever got it to work), you would end up increasing the volume of any music you listen to. I'm also not entirely sure the BCM for the Steering wheel controls will be compatible either.

I downloaded the logos in a flash drive and I installed it . Everything went excellent. Many many thanks to all of you.!

Replaced the chrome badges with black and removed those L+K doodles from the sides. Had it ceramic coated for lasting shine.

I went to buy an Octavia 1.6 TDI hatchback when looking for a replacement for my Superb. We disagreed over a stone chip in the bonnet, so I didn't buy it. Went back in the showroom and took a vRS estate out for a test drive. Really enjoyed the test drive, so bit the bullet and bought my first ever brand new car. Had three very happy years in my Sprint Yellow vRS (TSI) Estate. I say go for it Gaz

Take a look at this discussion here, it should answer your question. I had the same issue. The fix is an additional switch assembly fitted to the DSG selector which can be seen here. Apologies its in Russian. I believe that some people had their DSG selector box replaced under warranty, only for the fault to return some months later. I replaced the switch over 18 months ago and have not had the fault return.

Sounds like your blower motor is failing. It's not impossible to replace but it is fiddily. You should also have your HVAC checked every 3 years....time to get a regas.

I have a 190ps tdi and I will still knock back into sport mode for overtaking, pulling out of dodgy junctions, anticipating the need to accelerate quickly after braking for a sharp bend etc. It transforms the response by telling the car to prepare to accelerate rather than average to poor response depending on the car in drive or eco mode settings. So quick and easy to do and I find it better than using the paddles and going into manual for a bit. Immediately the overtaking, junction exit achieved, or car is accelerating as needed I go back to drive mode or eco mode again.

You’re forgetting the hunger for power us Kiwis have...we literally have the highest Audi RS sales per capita in the world.

Agree. For the new Kodiaq VRS if they had to ditch the diesel due to virtue signaling and/or tax pressures in some markets, then it should have the Superb's 206KW motor. I'll be going for a Formentor Cupra when I replace mine, and it's cheaper.

That puts my mind at rest a bit.. thanks Dean 👍

Yep, totally normal. The headlamp washer pump failed on our MKI. Got a replacement pump so front wheel off, wheel arch liner off and before I took the old one off, though I’d test it and bu**er me, it bloody-well worked. Put two full bottles through it and all was well. So put it all back together and now, fully chuffed with myself thought I’ll just check it agi…. yeah, yeah… you know, don’t you? Decided to face the the whole process the following day, but it took me half the time which was great. This was three years ago and it’s still all ok.

OK, some update on this. I figured out what the issue was! As sashaGrace and weyland said, the camera is plug and play really! The issue was the camera does not show the video signal if the boot door is open. So, because the boot door was always open during the installation, it never showed the video signal. So, after I reseted all the previous camera settings it started working (of course when the boot door is close)!

Welcome to the forum, I’m sure you’ll find loads of help and tips on here. @FixItAgainTrevor A TDI Scout sounds like it will fit the bill a treat for when you move to Scotland, AWD for winter conditions, raised suspension, rugged aesthetics for when you need to park way up a trail to make the most of your climbs. Tons of space for kit, x 4 hanging hooks in the boot, good luggage cover for shielding what you’re carrying, very useful. Looks are really subjective, but I think it wears the post-facelift headlight design very well.

Just buy a faraday pouch, job done. You can get a pack of 2 from Amazon for around £7

I’d be more concerned about the reason why it wasn’t there!