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There's more: https://thedriven.io/2021/08/18/im-thinking-of-replacing-my-ev-with-a-petrol-car-can-i-refuel-it-at-home/

Whilst this is still ongoing I wanted to take time out to thank you to the members of this community. When I posted this issue I only just had the accident. The speed at which members of this community responded and advised on what to do speaks volumes. So Thanks All

Whilst I enjoy trying to get a good return from fuel i try not to be a bore and bang on about it - but today I have driven from Lanarkshire to Hampshire, a distance of 392 miles, at an average speed of 60mph and average fuel consumption of 61.4mpg. The last tankful, 590miles at an average of 59.9mpg (that was filling up in Lancaster on the way north on Monday). I was gob-smacked! A tidily 1.0 engine / mild-hybrid DSG in a big-ish estate car at the legal limit wherever UK motorway traffic permitted, impressed! This is a loan car whilst mine is ‘in dock’ so I am hoping that when I get my 1.5TSI (manual) back it will be somewhere in the mid-50s mpg at least.

Welcome. ? Have you read the full project on here before Darkside got the car? http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/243854-citigo-go-a-go-with-more-go Page 15 might help for a place to jump to.

I received a good news regarding my order. Car is in delivery phase and should arrive next week. Looks like they received missing parts in the weeks of closure and they finished it.

Testing done against pure unleaded rather than E5, skim reading.

EDIT @edbostanFor a rep or anyone doing 20,000 miles it was a Major Service they called it For 9,400 miles a Year or between services it was Minor & Major, then theu changed that to Interim & Major. In the First Major Service at 20,000 miles / 24 Months nothing extra waws done but they charged the extra. Skoda do not call them a Schedule' they are recommendations and while in warranty the T&C's say you have to service to the Recommendations. So if someone has a car on Variable / Flexible servicing and does 2,000 miles a year ir is 24 months before they need have an Oil & Filter change. Nobody makes you have anything done to your car other than a MOT after 3 years then each year if in the UK. Spark Plugs were shown at each 2nd Major Service so @ 4 years / 40.000 miles. No need for that, or brake fluid @ 3 years then each 2. You can test the Fluid. Air filters were each 2nd Major Service, you can inspect and clean them, same with the Pollen Filter each 2 years. Cars doing few miles should be well checked if the owner is not doing it. Now they show the Air Filter @ 6 years. That is OK if you inspect it each year and maybe vacuum or blow it through with an air line, or just replace it when dirty / damp.

You don't say if you've a manual or DSG but if it's the latter then yes, it's gone into coasting mode when it doesn't need to apply a load to maintain momentum and the 'D' indicator in the maxidot will display 'E' instead.

It also says connect a battery charger... I wouldn't want a battery charger connected to a running engine. I expect the battery charger instructions say the same 🤣

That will be because there are no rules against it and I thought you were either deluded or deluding yourself The delusion is your rational of "Using the air conditioning regularly is well worth doing to keep it working efficiently. With manual air con, I'd use it every time you start the engine for 5-10 minutes while the car warms up." There is no need to do this because the pump is always running at a low level even when you think it is switched off, now I have no problem with you doing whatever you want because of whatever beliefs you have, I speak out when you encourage others to do the same for delusional reasons.

Obviously this is not normal. This is a car, not a truck. I would recommend you to show your car to different official dealer.

There possibly is, what year is the car? On early mk2s as well as mk1s, the subframe is held to the chassis via the 'consoles'. item 23 here: wishbone; wheel bearing housing; anti-roll bar; F ... - Fabia(FAB) [EUROPA 2008 year] (7zap.com) These have holes with big clearances (+/-2.5mm in all directions from perfect centre) for the bolts that hold them to the chassis, so fine adjustments can be made. You need to be careful not to make things worse though. Are you sure there are no bushes that may be worn out though?

Just got the door open by taking the central locking fuse out and putting it back in again!

If you have VCDS, OBDeleven or similar, then yes, I would sort the code as it only takes a few minutes. If you don't own anything to fix the code, I wouldn't worry about it

The 2049459/10 TPI from Skoda states: I expect the reason is to reduce the chance of a voltage spike/drop causing corruption during the update procedure. There is probably a newer TPI for the 0480 update but I've not seen it yet. It's your headunit so if you want to update it while driving you can, personally, I'd follow the instructions

OP has a wrong hand drive car, so it would pull right in this case.

Engine off, do not turn on your car. Display says "al least 60 minutes" but in 5 to 10 minutes the work is done, i did the update process two times now since i've got this car and in both times took me a couple of reboots (system reboots automatically during the process) and 10 minutes.

Only if the base petrol remained the same, which it may well not do, for reasons mentioned already. They may be able to make the base 'dinosaur juice' fuel 'worse' at least in RON terms, but as I say, I don't know how/if that would affect energy content of that fraction.

So if you drove the car to the dealer, the steering column couldn’t have been “snapped “ If they are now telling you it’s snapped then they must have snapped it. Is the car still at the dealer as it will be un drivable if the column really is snapped. I really think there is a mix up in terminology here, have you actually seen what is broken, or have any pictures?

@chimaera would be my 'goto guy' for explanations about energy content of the various fuels and their 'extras'. I seem to remember him suggesting that the petrochemical guys may just balance the octane boosting aspect of adding more ethanol against 'octane lowering' of the base fuel, to end up with something with the same RON. No idea how that might impact the calorific/energy content overall, because that is hardly correlated if at all with RON, I think. Many folk misunderstand this. I vividly remember once transcribing some taped interviews with some teachers, about why they left their previous jobs. One of them had been working for a fuel company and described how it was very tedious and embarrassing to keep repeating the same tests on a 'batch' over and over again hoping to get a 'pass' through simple experimental error, which would save the company loads of cash compared with having to add more of the pricier ingredients...

Well I also have some similar experience to yours both. On top of that my ACC stops working while driving on motorway with accompanied errors from front assist and lane assist. Also my camera isn't working properly from may (they still don't know when they are getting new one - apperently they are out of stock), infontaiment freezes - can't do **** with it, until I turn off my car and start it up again. shortcut on maxi dot display are missing, hill hold error, start stop error, proactive protection error, etc. I've been to my dealer basicly every month or even 2x per month (since I bought car in september 2020) and they don't want to change anything even if I demanded and their answers is always "we do not have authorisation from factory". They are only updating my car and thats it and hope it will work. I'm thinking of suing my dealer because car is full of bugs and other errors and they don't do nothing. - I'm not stationed in UK

@Wino We’ll spotted – the perils of rephrasing a sentence after typing it! Now corrected.

@e-Roottoot98 octane was just the number in the back of my mind from staring at the fuel pump. Apparently it was a while ago and at shell. I can more accurately state Costco 97 octane if the clarification helps.

Good work @JBD1974. I imagine there's probably a fair amount of variation in the calorific value of the 95RON, bearing in mind that that may not be one of the criteria it needs to meet to be 'certifiable'; dunno. Your wording could just do with a slight tweak to say a "0.7% increase in fuel consumption" or a 0.7% drop in fuel economy. Sounds very believable compared with the 'scare story' figure in the autocar article.

Yes, I'd be doing that anyway every 4 years with a belt and pump change anyway Very much not a fan of 'for life' fluid fills. They never are, and they always cause some kind of problem down the line...

I’ve been trying to understand the amount of energy in ethanol and pure 95 RON petrol, but my Googling hasn’t yielded a useful result. VVT (a Finnish university) did a similar study to Whatcar in 2011 and concluded a 0.7% increase in fuel consumption. They said this correlated well with the 1.1% difference in the calorific values of the 2 fuels. Link :- click I’m sure that in reality it’s more complicated with burn rates, knock etc coming in to play, but I’m still curious regarding the simple calorific values. As an aside, I’m only looking as my Vrs seemed to go better in 98RON, but I’m not so convinced in the Superb (190 petrol).

Well I could be wrong, but I can't imagine this isn't covered by the warranty, unless the dealer thinks the car has been misused and mistreated. If that is the case then they should tell you that. Some dealers are not as good as others, so if you're happy that the car hasn't been mistreated, I would take it to another dealer for a second opinion. If they say the same, then get them to show you the warranty condition that states this isn't covered, and if they can't contact Skoda UK to make a complaint.

I bought this car March 2021 from Skoda dealer , Stockport as approved used car. I took the car to have the regular service to you dealer at Morecambe on 05/08/21.They told me there is a strange sound and asked me to bring the car to them on 19/08/21. On that day they told me my car has Snapped Steering Column. They refused to repair it under the cover of the warranty . the car just covered 19000 mile.

How did it snap, surely not in normal usage ? Was it a dealer who said it's not covered by the warranty and if so, who was it that said it ?

Sounds ominous and can't fathom out how something that drastic isn't covered by a warranty claim!

You can use the adjusters on the headlights to lower them slightly: I'm not sure it'll help though. LED headlights have a very sharp cutoff so if you're on bumpy ground, it'll look like your flashing the car in front... High beam assist should be easy enough to enable, I've done it on my vRS and I'm happy to take a look at yours depending where in Norfolk you're based

Yeah.. I'm even more into it than before.. And it doesn't sound like an old creaking bed now either, which is nice..

Ive got 18 inch wheels on mine. Dont know if that helps !

Absolutely sure, unless the app was misleading. First time I noticed it was driving around town, when I stopped the rate at which it was reducing the soot level increased when I was stationary. In fact, if I booted it, the rate occasionally started to increase! Makes sense, as under acceleration you're generating soot, the ecu assumes this (remember, it's not directly measuring this). When idling under no load, there is enough 2nd injector fuel in the regen sequence to maintain the required EGTs. I observed this multiple times, and yes it surprised me at first, but then I thought it through and made sense. Tbh, if I had another diesel I would use the app continuously, that way you won't inadvertently switch the engine off midway through a regen, which is not good if its close to 100% soot level. To give an idea of how imprecise the system is though, I had occasionally had to do just that, turn off midway. By the time the engine had properly warmed up after the restart hours later, the soot level was over 100%, and still worked fine. Of course, the only way I could verify the function of the app was to check there was a regen taking place when the app was indicating it was, and every time I could check that (impossible at speed on the motorway) it was correct. Its a useful tool to monitor regen activity, I'm not convinced it's much use on predicting lifetime, though of course its simply relaying the info from the ecu, so use it accordingly; the point us that the ecu view of the DPF is possibly subject to significant error.

I never had that clunk on my dq200 dsg 7 speed when downshifting. I am curious what others will say about it.

To @2006edr - Removing the footwell bulbs is very hard. This should be Your last option. I do not know what is the Engineer's reason, disassemble of footwell to be so sticky. May be there is some special tool but I do not believe. When I remove mine (to change a bulb) I need to pinch so hard and I wear out a little skin on my hand.

AwesomeGTi spring to mind.

If the car runs okay, and you like it, then haggle heavily on the price based on you having to get north of £500 of the missing work done. But follow your gut feeling on the car. If you're uhming and ahing, best to walk away. There are lots of good examples about. No need to take a bet on a poorly serviced car. EDIT: Also don't despair if you can't find a good example of what you want right away. This is just anecdotal based on my experience, but I swear the type of car you're looking for are like buses: You look around for ages and then three turn up at once.

Not true. IME Dependent on how the charger or USB port hardware (at both ends) is designed and how compliant and if a standard or proprietary design is used. It is highly dependent on the cable used, which depending how its wired, and the wire used (resistance). So some cables wont work for charging with certain combinations of charge port and hardware. Try another (different manufacturer/type) cable.

Pretty sure yes; reasoning already stated above.

IIRC the ECU is programmed in Europe to expect either 95 or 98 RON fuel. The 98 RON fuel will ultimately perform that bit better. Whether you'd notice it in day to day driving.......... I doubt very much. My motorbike, however, is set for 98 RON all the time. Put 95 RON into it and you are able to notice a change in the engine. My VRS is a diesel and the only reason I put V Power in over standard diesel is for all the special, deep cleaning snake oil characteristics Shell has been able to brainwash into me

Waning Gibbous this evening

I can’t be the only person who doesn’t care about this, and simply uses the head unit as a display for CarPlay (or Android Auto, if you’re that way inclined!)?

One positive outcome of reading car forums both here and Pistonheads, is that I have come to the realisation that new cars are way too much hassle and unreliable and too techie for my liking. My 2016 Octavia hasn't cruise/ACC or front sensors or lane assist or touchscreen heating and is all the better for it! I have had both Kamiq and Scala courtesy cars and neither have felt as good as my Octavia. Several times I have had the lane assist trying to pull me into the hedge, and once slammed on the brakes for no reason.

Or ask someone to drive your car and be the passenger. I think no one can identify this ticking sound better than you...

Get a passenger to listen while you drive, they may be able to pinpoint the noise more easily than you can.

Blimey - you've changed your tune on Brexit??? never thought I'd hear that admission! Anyhow - back to cars - looks like I'll be keeping the current ones for a while then as nothing fills me with more dread than the thought of sitting in an autonomous car...

I have the 1.0/110 as well. You are correct, it has a very narrow torque band, and is completely unresponsive at low revs. Just use more revs, its reasonably smooth up to 5000 and needs you to adapt your driving technique to keep it above 1800/2000 at all times.

Finally collected (long story) a emerald green 1.5Tsi DSG with heated screen and ACC as options. A great improvement on the Yeti it replaced, but changing from 20 years of diesel ownership to petrol is going to take some getting used to. I’m missing the mid range torque!

There have been numerous debates on this forum which don’t ever reach a definitive answer, so I don’t get involved anymore. But as your original question has been lost in the debate, here is my opinion *. For your Diesel vRS the Skoda workshop manual says replace the timing belt at 210,000 km (130000 miles), no mention of time. Skoda uk will say that mileage, or 5 years whichever comes first. From what I have read on this forum, there is a potential issue with the water pumps failing on these tdi engines, there are many reports of overheating due to pumps failing. Therefore if I had a tdi I would replace the timing belt and water pump at 5 years, on the basis that I want a reliable car. *Opinions given are my own, usually dispensed from my armchair, or sofa, whichever comes first.