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Open ur fuel flap cover - it clearly shows wat rim sizes the car can come with from factory. Show them that.....

Sorry if I offended anyone it was just my opinion if i rejected a car and went for a different make.i don't think I would be visiting this site much .i accept what you are all saying ie trying to help people.i should of thought that before putting my thoughts on this site.

I've been following this topic right from the start (back on page 1!!) This was my 5th Skoda and the worst car I've ever owned. The faults were one thing but the response of Skoda UK and my garage were something else. With this forum, I was able to get in touch with similar experiences to combat the inevitable "Oh? That's the first time we've heard of that. You must just be unlucky". I was able explore my options and get a resolution. I've also had a few DMs asking me about the specifics which I've responded to. Like Gax says, I want to be able to respond to others if I can help. Besides, I still want to see a resolution to this. I know there's people on here who are still driving round in hire cars months later. I'm rooting for them to get a resolution and for the Octy to be the car it should be

I own a Superb now and frequent the Superb forum. I got a lot of help and useful info on the Octavia forum when I had mine. I don't find it problematic to look in on here and chip in to help people on the Octy forum, if you look you'll find plenty by me just this week trying to help people. Part of that may involve urging people not to buy one, having experienced the worst car I have ever owned in the Octavia MK4. To repay my debt and help people is why I am here I guess.

I spoke to my dealer today. Apparently my car was built as planned last week (yay!) and it left the factory this Monday. So if all goes well in transit it should be here in about a month.

If you pay attention to the little arrow on the top of the can’s nozzle you should be okay.

Perhaps worth using this existing thread instead, as it's better to have the information in one place rather than many:

I am not worried about the running the Enyaq as a taxi in the slightest. Cab companies have been running 1st gen Nissan Leaf’s as taxis for years and their batteries are only just over half the size of the Enyaq’s. I also know a guy who uses a Nissan eNV-200 to do parcel deliveries in and he swears by it. He delivers for one company in the mornings and then another company in the afternoon so he’s put putting a fair mileage on it. I looked on EV-database at Kia E-Niro figures before deciding on the Enyaq. They are similar size and weight with the Kia having a slightly bigger battery and based on those figures, I was happy to take the chance with the Enyaq.

Brush & then smooth over..this after the primer & before the top coat.... Look around 4:29 here on the factory film of the MK7 Golf being built. HOW IT'S MADE: Volkswagen VW Golf 7 Car Factory Production Plant [GOMMEBLOG] - YouTube

Hello Briskodians, I would like to offer a repair service for some types of electric window motor module as fitted to a few Skoda models, as well as one or two VWs. At this stage it applies only to two specific, exact part numbers fitted to the driver's side front door, as follows: 6Y2959802 Fitted to later Mk1 Fabia, from around October 2004. 6Y1959801 Fitted to Very early Mk2 Fabia and Roomster until end of October 2007; as well as 9N3 Polo and a few Transporters. (And some late 9N Polos I have learned). Private Message me a VIN if you'd like me to check whether your car has this part number fitted. (As described a few posts below, either of the above part numbers + suffix A on the end can also be repaired. Also happy to try with units of the subsequent generation, with part numbers 6Q1959801F, G, H, or J.) Note that both of these are driver's side units, the difference in part numbering is due to the orientation/positioning of the motor module on the panels they mount to. These parts suffer a type of intermittent, progressive failure where they 'sometimes work fine, sometimes don't work at all'. Eventually they just completely stop working. This is what I can fix for you. I will test your faulty unit, confirm the problem, repair it to full working order and post it back to you for £59, total. You'd post it to me - less than 1Kg so can be sent for around £4.25 on a tracked24 service purchased online at Royal Mail. I would aim to turn it round within 2 days of receipt, and send it back tracked24. This is the what the part looks like: Central locking via remote will still work in the absence of the window module, so you will be able to secure the car as normal while it is away. Obviously you'll want to ensure that both front windows are fully shut, as in the absence of the driver's side module the passenger side one will not operate. New units are no longer available from Skoda/VW, and ebay 2nd hand ones with these part numbers tend to go for big bucks. I will charge you just £59 including return postage. Cheers, Pete Edit 30/08/25: To get in touch, please click on my username which will take you to my profile, with contact info.

Thanks for your help

Buy an old portable CD player and connect the headphone jack to the aux in on the car.

NO!! , under braking (as im sure you know already) the mass loading shifts to the front, hence all cars have bigger disks at the front. If you increased rear braking strength i think all that would happen is the rears would lock up until ABS kicked in, a waste of time.

I've decided to go with the ECS kit with the heavier flywheel from Awesome in the end. I couldn't quite stretch to the cost of the Darkside kit as it was nearly £900 including postage. I'm sure it would be a great choice but there'd be fitting on top of that and it was just too much. The ECS kit is £570 plus postage but the twist is that after I'd paid for it I was informed there's a two to three week back order. Luckily I can use the van or the Ignis for now but I want to get the car back on the road as it's easy for an expense like a clutch to put a car off the road for a while. If that happens it's possible for a car to still be sitting there a year later and that leads to all sorts of problems. The sooner it's back on the road the better. Thanks for the advice and opinions as it always helps to make a decision.

the two wires not going through the connector are the heated mirror ones

I am also in the minority that wants to drive my car, and to drive it to the best of my abilities, what is being produced these days is aimed at those who want something to drive them around while they engage with their social media or be entertained by infotainment. More fool me though because many people seem to be lapping it up and will put up with no end of incoveniences in the hope that one day these flaky "driver assistance" systems might actually do what they are supposed to.

Can I ask users to start posting into the linked thread instead, so we can keep everything in one place, it would be appreciated. https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/490693-e10-fuels/

Yep fully aware that some like them and that there are benefits - my parents have had autos for the last 30 years and I've driven them all regularly... I still prefer a manual though as I find it gives more control and I actually like driving and the skill of coordinating hands and feet smoothly... But I know I'm in a minority.

To be fair most of the internals are well made on mine, although the capacitor mounting/hole design was a bit "interesting". Ended up having to drill out the PCB to go from a pinhole for the eletrolytic to a marginally larger pinhole for the new non-electrolytic caps. Figured I'd do it right and only once, so lucky I used to occasionally rework PCB as part of my day job. I do know what you mean though, with some speakers looking like they were put together by the work experience person on a bad day.

That is great help thanks so much the BBS are just right the OZ are a bit tight for me cheers

Still, it meant they didn't forget me (and I was tying to get a spot in OBs so it didn't do me any harm) and as I bought the crew some beer afterwards to make up for my faux pas, I think it helped me fit in with them. Even if they did give me stick for it...for several years!

Example WD from an Octavia... Colours seem to match up and show black as the shield: In the past, I'm sure shield would be connected to pin 4 of the aux socket. Much like this pic:

There is a recent thread in the Wheel section and others over the years. Briskoda has a good search facility.

Yes that, looks like it. Just a weak solder joint. Thanks

Amen to that I was looking at some short XLR interconnects on a website the other day, £125!!!!!! I've got dozens of them (admittedly not oxygen free copper) lying about and I doubt you could hear the difference. I am pretty sure I couldn't hear the difference and it's sort of my job to hear stuff Mind you, it helps to be realistic about your own hearing and at my age (not telling) I have undoubtedly suffered some hearing loss, especially at the top end.

Big clue as to what's driving your mechanic's motivation there. Also, there are at least 3 disabling failure modes in a Kettering arc distributor, and I've experienced all 3 of them!

https://www.gov.uk/check-vehicle-e10-petrol Officially, it seems you’re ok…

Yes your car can run on E10 as it is pointed out that all since 2011 had to be able to. There are threads in the General Chat section. A twin chargers is recommended to run on Super Unleaded 98 by VW Group, but it has been 97 or 99 Ron min super unleaded in the UK for years now and no 98 Super as shown on the filler flap. Esso super unleaded E5 in the UK does not have Ethanol in it for some UK areas. I loved ethanol. If I could run pure ethanol I would. Love Tesco Momentum 99 E5,. Worth every penny, and it is not many pennies a litre more than Tesco 95 Ron E10, not even £2.50. Tank fill extra. https://www.volkswagen.co.uk/en/need-help/need-help-faqs/fuel.html

Look here:- Thanks, AG Falco

Don't assume that black means negative, it virtually never does in VW group cars. More often used for ignition 12V, earths are generally brown.

Ah I see, that makes sense. To update on the situation it seems that Sepul was right. We phoned the number for admiral and got through to Autoglass UK who then arranged a cal back from Car Glass in France. In the end we got a replacement time set up for Thursday at 2pm for the princely sum of £115 excess. Hopefully it'll be ok but I will report back the overall results for posterity.

Hi ladies and gents Just wanted to start off by saying that i have read a lot of tech info on this site. it has helped me over the years with my Skoda cars. Look forward to brushing up on mechanics cheers Richard

For what is worth, the belt replacement is recommended at 7 years in Australia. Even the tech who asked me at the last service, at 7 year mark, admitted I was not the first to defer and he had not encountered a belt failure yet. Still making up our mind whether to keep or replace our 1.4tsi estate which is still a joy to drive.

Redid all the capacitors on my old mid range speakers, changed the fluids on the tweeters and inspected the cones which were all in excellent condition. The electrolytics were not leaking, but some were borderline on spec. Was considering an “upgrade” to MA silver or b&w 603, but was disappointed on the test listen. Speaking to both companies they said it was higher range models which were the equivalent replacements. The eye watering costs of these options made a repair of substantially cheaper pair suddenly the only option. Worrying thing was how midrange speakers no longer live up to those of the recent past.

I'd say that sounds normal then.

The quality of Bilstein B4 should be as good as OEM as they are fitted as standard to some cars. However, an aftermarket Bilstein B4 is made to replace many models so may not be exactly the same specification as the original one. I suspect some other makes would also be OEM quality, such as KYB, Optimal, Sachs. KYB, Optimal, Sachs https://www.autodoc.co.uk/car-parts/oem/5q0413023fh?search=OEN+5Q0413023FH&tduid=5aaf8162f465c2bb2a0fcbb5cced2565&supplier[0]=32&supplier[1]=85&supplier[2]=129

If '34F7' was done since early 2014 on the DSG there is a sticker in the spare tyre well or there should be. No matter if not done or if it was the DSG is still working 7 years on from the Service Campaign being called. http://skoda-auto.com/services/recall-actions If the mechanic never picked up on any noises or issues with the engine then you can just cross your fingers. eg.

@Bill65 I feel for you. They were bad enough when Gordon is a moron stalker the showrooms, they are worse now. Did you ask to have the car put on Fixed Service intervals and not left on Variable? It left the factory and got to them set at 24 months / 18,000-20,000 miles. If it shows an Inspection Service due that is their error, and if an Oil change due that was them at it. I suggest you put your car no place near Parks Hamilton, any Parks branches. Henrys are not perfect but better than Parks, which is easy to do. Skoda should make things clear. They have websites but even Skoda UK Customer Services can not read or comprehend. If you want Annual / Fixed Servicing then opt for that. http://volkswagen.co.uk/en/owners-and-drivers/servicing/service-plans/service-schedules.html Example, not a recommendation. https://iautouk.com/service/car-servicing/skoda-servicing/skoda-longlife-servicing

@M3RT Best if someone familiar with these cars could go with you, someone familiar not only with the engines but the DSG. You need to be aware of potential issues with the Euro 5 1.8TSI engines. Hopefully all is well. Maybe even work has been done on the engine, but evidence of that would be good. http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/266114-18tsi-engine-failures Also the DQ200 DSG. It possibly needed and got a oil change from Synthetic Oil to Mineral & Software Update sometime since 2014. this is '34F7'.

Has your service indication come on. Look in settings car look for service it will tell you there how long left in days and miles if it is set to variable that's 18500miles 2 years if fixed thats 9500 miles or 12 months the first is for people who do more than 10000 a year. If variable ask to have it set to Fixed

I don't have an Octavia but would presume it's exactly the same as all the other VAG cars:- One press of the button wakes the electrical system up and allows such as the windows etc to work. A press when you also have your foot on the brake (dsg) or clutch (manual) will start the car. You'll soon get to grips with everything. 👍

Recently had a similar issue, with a noise coming from the front brakes. Had a quick check, and found the front discs slightly worn, but showing some rust, due to covid the car has not been used much. So, full front brake overall, new pads, new discs, hub cleaned to a mirror finish, guide pins cleaned and lubricated, and... no improvement. Fed up with it now, so put it ino the local garage. Turns out it was a sticking rear caliper! I was convinced the noise was coming from the front, so I would check the other rear wheel for peace of mind.

It was our choice to have the replacement glass fitted in the uk at the time. iirc there was the option to have it replaced in France once they had sourced the correct glass. Too many vineyards and too little time. 🙂

Hey guys, hope everyone is doing well. I am basically writing this post because I had wanted to improve the stance of my VRS since I bought it (18 months ago), but I'd always get put off by the thought of ruining the car and then chicken out of it. I didn't want to spend hundreds of pounds trying to make it look better if it was going to be scraping over speed bumps, the ride quality was going to be worse, the handling was going to be worse, I wouldn't be able to fully load it without the wheels rubbing, etc, etc... but so many people were seeming to do it without any issues, I thought bugger it I'm gonna do it too! Well all I can say is, if you are currently thinking of lowering/wheel spacering your VRS and you have the same reservations I had.... just do it! It's the best thing I've done to the car. Okay, maybe the pedal box & remap were the best thing, but this is definitely up there! The car looks so much better, ride quality is much improved in my opinion (even my wife agrees, and she hates cars and the fact I fiddle with them all the time ), and I'd say it definitely handles better. I'm so so pleased with the results and I urge you all to do it if you are thinking about it. Lowering springs are H&R 40mm and the wheel spacers are H&R Trak+ 20mm at the rear and 10mm at the front. Probably could have got away with more on the front, but I was being cautious and wanted a fully functioning car on the awful backroads around where I live. So this is the car when I bought it... And this is it after lowering & spacers... The difference is so subtle, yet massive at the same time, I love it! Here's another shot before lowering and spacers... And then after... Here's one where it had been lowered, but I hadn't put the spacers on yet... And then after the spacers ... And from the front, this one is with the car lowered but the spacers hadn't been fitted yet... And then with the spacers fitted... I'm so so pleased with how it turned out and I hope this puts your minds at ease if any of you are thinking of lowering but are unsure like I was. Any questions just give me a shout PS - You can still load it up and go to the tip no bother too!

Ive had 3 adults in the back, a bit tight but ok. No worse than other cars I've had including a Mondeo , I don't think any car is a true 3 in the back.

If you compare the calorific values for diesel, petrol and ethanol by the traditional sales system of volume (litres/gallons) then petrol has 10% less than diesel and ethanol 30% less than petrol. If you compare them by weight (kilograms/pounds) then there is far less difference. Aromatics are usually added to petrol to achieve regulation anti-knock ratings but they are not without problems: Fuel left in a tank will usually degrade over a period (beyond 6 weeks) as the more volatile aromatics deteriorate/evaporate so your RON rating will reduce which can affect how well the engine performs. The aromatics are not without their environmental issues. In Australia they were also a real problem for remote aboriginal communities where the youth engaged in petrol sniffing highs resulting in permanent brain damage or death from the Aromatics. A special low aromatic 91 RON fuel is now sold in those areas (I believe it is methanol based) Pure ethanol has a relatively high 109 RON rating so it can be mixed with petrol to replace some aromatics to achieve regulation RON ratings, but it is not without its problems: Ethanol is more corrosive on older incompatible tank linings, seals and fuel lines, but most modern engines are designed to accommodate at least 10% Ethanol content. Ethanol is quite hydroscopic and will attract water more than petrol. If this is allowed to happen through poor storage/transport then the ethanol will separate from the petrol and the engine will run very poorly as it runs on either the lowered octane petrol or the ethanol/water mix. Ethanol mixed with petrol will reduce the calorific content, with a 10% mix by roughly 3% although in Australia when mixed with 91 Ron petrol it raises it to 94 RON. Ethanol is usually touted as a 'green' fuel as it is made from renewable resources. This claim stands up to examination where they use a waste resource to produce ethanol but less so where good agricultural land is used or virgin Amazon rainforest is destroyed to produce the source material. Australian E10 is marginally cheaper than pure petrol but has developed a very poor reputation as there have been many cases where independent testing has shown the ethanol content to vary considerably between batches and storage/transport is below acceptable standards especially for humid conditions by the lower tier producers. The major reputable petrol companies here have had little involvement in the addition of Ethanol to their products, although that will change with future legislation which should improve the product reputation. I'm sure these aspects will already be better controlled in the UK and Europe by your suppliers. E85 (105 RON) is available at some stations here but as far as I know there was only one, now defunct local manufacturer (Holden), who made a 'Flexfuel' engine capable of running it. Unfortunately the engine was designed to run on petrol or the Ethanol mix so was not optimised for either and each fuel has completely different characteristics. The 15% petrol in E85 is required because pure ethanol is otherwise quite difficult to ignite.

Someone sell me their WRC. Thank you kindly.

Either way the sentence makes no sense. Paraphrasing: "This is really, really important to us so we're communicating poorly about it"

Do you know the rated power(kw) of car? It is probably belt driven, but we'll be able to confirm after you give us the rated power of the car... This is the engine bay of the EA211 (belt driven - 66kw, 81kw) versions: This is the EA111 engine bay (chain driven - 63kw, 77kw) versions: Surface rust on exhaust system is very common on these cars ( talking about chain driven versions). The back boxes tend to have cracks/patches of rust on the outside protective layer. I would say that you should add that to your 50k maintenance plan or ask your dealer to change it now if it is really bad...