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I have just joined the forum today, although I have had two Skodas for over 11 years. I have not had the need for advice from other owners until now as both cars have been totally reliable until today..... I had a Superb 2.0 TDI 170 Estate from 2010 until 2015 when I sold it to my brother as he was so impressed with it economy and carrying capacity. I then bought a pre-registered Octavia 2.0TDI 150 Estate L&K. The pre-registered price made it cheaper than the second-hand VRs that I had been looking at. The attraction of both cars was their excellent load length with the seats folded down, as we are often carrying folding tables around the village in Kent. Also not many estate cars can carry a two-seat leather chesterfield sofa, which we have done on several occasions as it was used as a prop in an amateur dramatics production. I was a rally marshal in the 60's when I lived in Edinburgh and remember the rear-engined Skoda rally cars that had amazing reliability, so they often won awards on the roughest rallies after the opposition had literally fallen apart! I look forward to learning more about Skodas from other members.

An insider's view, unsurprising but good to hear from the horse's mouth as it were: "in a nutshell,the media is the problem" https://www.clubpolo.co.uk/topic/359211-is-everyone-panic-buying-petrol/?do=findComment&comment=2738265

After having had 3 Yetis and an Octavia, and my wife having a Citigo then Fabia, my wife decided that she missed the height in a Yeti. So, last Saturday we went to Pulman, Cramlington (was Sidbury) where Sean had a Kamiq and Karoq ready for us to take for test drives. Pulman had a Karoq that arrived the previous day which was the spec that we wanted. Fortunately the second hand market is strong at the moment, so we got a good deal against the Karoq. We picked the new Karoq up on Thursday and love it. The deal included mats, front and rear dash cams being hardwired, and new headlight bulbs fitted. Overall it was excellent service:-)

Words a mechanic will never say: "I messed something up and now I've fixed it properly, there'll be no charge and I'm sorry for the inconvenience." Words a mechanic will always say: "I'm infallible, something else is wrong with with it, it'll cost you more money if you want it done."

This looks like it here, I think. If it only has a single wire connection, that's almost sure to be the oil pressure switch:

It's like Star Trek movies

i havnt read the entire thread but.... there is a very straight forward pattern to Windows OS releases - they alterante quite evenly from good to ****e and have done right back to 3.11 10 is a decent and pretty stable environment, i think, 7 is also still pretty good on my old laptop. 8 was brutal. so, on the basis of existing stats - wait for 12, or whatever they decide to call it.

not wooried about the fuel shortage either given his and his wife's cars are the most economic in the world and barely sniff fuel on his way to work.. hell gave to worry about the fuel "going off" in the tanks

Latest Updated Speedcams - June, 2021. Here's the latest update of my customised version of EUR Speedcams ( June, 2021). They consist of the full EUROPE speed cameras which I've split up into four consolidated poi categories i.e. Fixed Speedcams, Average Speedcams, Variable Speedcams and Redlight Speedcams. They come supplied with my own preferred personal choice of icons, shown below, to match each of the categories. Remember to Install them as I explained in the first post in this thread i.e. after extracting the zip file remember to open the newly extracted folder and place only the PersonalPOI folder and metainfo2.txt file onto your sd card ( Please Note: a usb stick will not work! ). Also, please remember to select/tick the relevant newly added poi categories and the poi audible warning alert in your infotainment map menu settings after performing the update or they will not display on your map or audibly alert you. Hope you all enjoy them! EUR Speedcams June, 2021.zip

I'm sure there's a preference setting where you can choose to have either Car heading 'up' or North 'up'. Your photo shows it is set to North 'up'

This is actually indicative of an air leak on the intake side rather than a problem with the throttle body. Usually this means splits in the vacuum hose between the inlet and the brake servo.

Missed the sunset (again) this evening, but there was still a little colour in the sky

Well the little orange low fuel light came on in the swift today with just 20 miles left in the tank. Left it till his evening and nipped out to the local petrol station and filled up no problem, although apparently the panic buying has affected the big Tescos and Sainsburys down the road... Daughter is happy though as it means I can slap the 'L' plates on and take her out for a driving session tomorrow

Neither Yeti rims or 225/60R16 tyres will fit a Fabia.

up and out this morning, and decided to do the twin peaks again. a week off the bike, even with the running i was feeling it up the hills! also, the definite change in weather to being generally more damp, the ground is softer, so alot heavier to pedal up as well. following this up with 2 1/2hrs of shovelling and barrowing... i am gonna feel it in the morning. . but in a good way

@Dajver Welcome. Hopefully someone gives you some info as the last post was back in March 2019 and about cars from 2018.

Same here, mine is a tad older as an i7-2600k. It's still more than capable for my needs too.

It is a 'groan' because you are on a wind up often.

It's quick enough for me to be honest, especially if I put it in sport mode. Our other car is a JCW Mini so I just drive that if I fancy having some fun 😀

I've not measured what other Skodas can do but 9.3 m is pretty impressive for a big estate / compact crossover / SUV https://youtu.be/NwJOSbsQeHU

My 8 year old Roomster with 43k on the clock is on original front and rear pads. The front have 3mm left and need changing in a month or two.

I'll be sticking with Windows 10 until my PCs need changing - my desktop is too old to have support for TPM and my tablet only has 48GB SSD.

Idiots will be idiots

That sounds mighty suspicious to me... A dry joint, if I read that correctly, will be un-lubricated. If not lubed from the get-go, surely much of the long-term damage will already have been done? As Sepulchrave said, no bedding in required! At least they know from the offset. If they have penised it up, they need to repair it!

If they don't there'll be a lot of people switching to Linux or other non windows OS...

Check the bolt, then wonder about alternative explanations.

There is an auto setting in the menu. But it looks like it depends on the driving mode selected. You can check the manual where to change it.

This will depend on whether the lights are activated by microswitches on the brake pedal or by hydraulic pressure in the brakelines. Some brands of car have microswitches on the brake pedal which have two functions, 1: to operate the brakelights and, 2: to disengage cruise control. Failre can cause all sorts of apparently unrelated issues.

The brake pedal is pushed by the human driving and the actuators hold the brake pressure. Big deal. The engine can be off. Good thing. If the driver's foot was on the brake pedal the brake lights would be on. Not all vehicles stopped and held by AUTOHOLD have the brake lights on. If last car in a line the driver might decide to put their foot 🦶 on the brake pedal. What it does is keep you alert with foot off the brake pedal and car not emitting emissions and ready to press the brake or accelerator. @KenONeill have you driven a car with AUTOHOLD available yet?.

@DaveMiller - Yeah, but that explains all my reasons for disliking autohold:- It's using stored energy to "hold the car on the brakes". It's using a computer to do something that should be done by the driver. It's doing something inconsiderate. Exactly what it does has never been properly explained to car owners anyway.

Have a look at this: http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/18995/P2563/009571

You should check Erwin as that'll give you the TPI/TSB for your car. If there are any engine software updates, that's where you'll find the information. Once you know a TPI/TSB exists, then you might have more chance at a dealers to get it done. Without seeing an autoscan or similar, I can't suggest any likely updates...

@Joss1733 There is an article linked in this thread or one of the numerous delivery threads specifically about Skoda chips and a Skoda persons comments. Fabia using the least, but that is not clear if only as is with Mk3 Fabia Estates which they are still building and not the new Mk4 hatch which has more available tech than a Scalla or Kamiq will have. Maybe the Enyaq uses the most or could it be the Plug in Hybrids with lots of options ticked. Does it really matter as members and buyers are receiving various models and plenty were built and delivered in the first 7 months of 2021. http://whatcar.com/news/chip-shortage-delays-how-long-will-you-have-to-wait-for-a-new-car/n23449 https://www.telegraph.co.uk/cars/features/computer-chip-shortage-affects-skoda-according-boss

A Google search on "how long should disk rotors last" will show a consensus of a minimum of 30000 miles or 50000 kms. So any that wear out in 10000 miles seem to me to be a warranty issue. Unless there was massive abuse. Disk pads I could understand lasting only 10K.

Yea mate cancelled mine late April, and took a punt on Cupra. Delivered 5th July. Loving it so far, although my infotainment has the odd sleepy morning too. Glad you’re sorted and I’m sure your puddle light will get sorted soon enough. 👍🏼

Does make you wonder !!!

That depends on him having the Amundsen II unit, and a 2014 will probably be an Amundsen +

Show me a pic of the unit fitted in your car please.

Not sure with the Fabia, but many cars used to have the high level brake light feed from one or the other rear light. If the feeding light blows, so can the high level. It may be worth looking at wiring diagrams and wiring to the brake lights to check there is no corrosion/damage to the high level light's feed.

@briscaF1 Well, apparently a failed HLBL is only an advisory at your MoT station; go there again!! Try this; foot brake on as hard as you can push it with the engine running. Now apply the hand brake and it should be several clicks lower.

I don't know but it'll exclude a heck of a lot of gamers with self-builds if Windows 11 requires a TPM module. Some motherboards do have them, and some others have a TPM header to add a TPM module. They're currently about £15, get them before they skyrocket in this age of shortages and price-gouging.

Josip-JK Superb Style 2.0 TDI 140kW DSG F1 hatchback, panorama, 19" sportline Wheels, Alcantara leather, KESSY

Shy - remember him! He's probably still using his initial stockpile.

What do you expect frequenting establishments every 6 months that only charge if they have to make an adjustment? Any adjustment to a correctly aligned vehicle will result in the symptoms you describe. The suspension on these vehicles is incredibly robust, the location of the front & rear subframes equally but critically the mounting bolts go through large clearance holes and anyone removing them for say a clutch change has to be competent, diligent and aware that it must be realigned with either specialist equipment or very basic equipment (I use 2 laser spirit levels) by someone that knows exactly what they are doing, also the bolts have to be tightened to an incredible torque to avoid subsequent movement, most are unaware (as I was) or simply dont care, and why should they when they can get the punter on the 6 month tracking merry go round?

Hi all, we inherited a 2018 mk.3 Fabia from my in laws when they both had to give up driving last year. They said if they sold it the money would just sit in the bank until we inherited that so we might as well have the car now if we wanted it. As it was to replace and '03 Peugeot 406 with 273,000 miles on the clock we couldn't really turn it down! If it does half the miles of the 406 we'll be pleased.

i seem to recall smooth peanut butter being highly recommended in the detailing section a few yrs ago..

This is where Volkswagen, Skoda (in CZ) and Skoda UK are at major fault....as THEY must surely know which variant/s of the vehicle do and don't have the faults (or at least susceptible to them) and should remove the errant models from the market, at least for inspection. The consumer in the UK cannot win in this respect though, as the dealers are bemoaning the cars being given to them (and I sympathise with that), and Skoda UK are saying they are merely the distributor of the vehicles (I have no sympathy for them, they should cease importing the MK4 full stop or the suspected faulty variant/s). But this sadly is not happening, as this forum seems to have a variety even of build dates with the faults, and you can still find F.E.'s on sale on some dealer websites as well. I'm keeping an eye on my dealers website, and while my MK4 has not appeared yet I strongly suspect it will just as soon as my finance agreement is showing as closed.

Skoda are looking into absolutely everything I think. They should have looked into all this before they sold the car!

As usual things get in the road of doing jobs on the car....I finally ordered a button the week before COVID lockdown so by the time I went to collect it the dealer had shut the door...! Anyway, got the button recently and set about swapping it over. Apparently the part number had changed so the part number is 6VO 905 217 for the button I received. Pretty simple to change as other folk have said but I thought I would post up a few pics which might help others as there are a couple of other actions to consider. Popping the top trim is simple, use trim tools if you have them, and this gives access to the two screws either side of the column for the bottom trim. You will need a T20 bit for these. I was expecting the bottom trim to drop down at this stage with the understanding there were only two screws but it turns out there is a further screw right underneath. Bit of a pain to get to but it comes away no problem. I still wrestled with the bottom trim until I popped the steering column adjustment lever down and it all dropped down. Full access now available so I very carefully released but connectors to the button and reader coil. A very narrow flatblade screwdriver helps release the connectors. Study the new button and you will see where you gently release the clips on the side of the existing button, a little jiggling around and it will slide out through the reader. New button just clips back in, refit the connectors and rebuild. The screw on the underside was tricky to get back in, my driver wasn't magnetic so I used blu-tak to hold the screw on 🙂 Anyway, worked fine and the difference is night and day when pushing the button. I have kept the old button as I believe some folk have cleaned them with contact cleaner so might give that a go to have a spare available. Hope that is of interest.... A saving of approx £80 on dealer charges....! New button highlighted red.