Leaderboard

It wasn't a dream, it does exist. And it's absolutely phenomenally gorgeous. But I would say that!

Well, I'm one up on the MK4 Owners. Android Auto Wireless works for me! My wireless interface box finally arrived after waiting for it for 10 months! For those of you wanting to do the same thing, it should work with Bolero, Amunsden and Columbus systems. The screen shot shows it working on my retrofitted Columbus system with MHI2_ER_SKG13_P4526 firmware. On Bolero and Amunsden it should work on SOP4.x hardware with 0478 and above. Download the app onto Android. It works best with Android 10 and above. Connect it up, enable developer mode in AA, enable Wireless and connect up the device. You also need to enable the VAG crash settings to get it work in Wireless AA app. You also need to update the AAWireless box to version 1.71 (it won't work on version 1.60). You need to wait 40 secs for connection and for any reboots. To get the best audio settings, go into AA settings and enable Auto Resolution and enable 48khz Audio Rate.

Ignition modules. Carburettor had external ignition coil, injection one had integrated module.

Oh yeah, all mk1s play nicely with VCDS Lite. One thing I would mention at this point @WezFab is that it can take a bit of messing about with ports and settings to get the cable/software combo working once plugged into a car. Don't give up at the first error message, by any means. Help info will come with the cable I expect; and I also seem to remember there are some de-snagging FAQ bits and pieces on the ross-tech site; their search function is not bad, I think.

I used to use a Thule rack and 9000 box that fitted to the towball, sold now. Child added for perspective.

Avoid "rigid cases" and use "soft luggage" of the barrel bag type. But eleven days with a teenager, mother and two dogs, long UK drives at the beginning and end, I would need a holiday when I arrived back home.

They work just as well on secondhand cars. 😉

A second vote for strimmer wire, its very versatile. It was the only thing strong and bendy enough to clear my rear screen washer feed after the system gunged up when two different types of screen wash were mixed.

It just runs to an outlet to ground in the wheel arch so the best bet is to poke some strimmer wire down it

Yes, looking forward to that. Hoping I don’t miss the AWD too much 👍

I was only guessing about cruise requiring a recode of engine ECU, maybe it's only Central Elec? BXW rings a vague bell for a 1.4/16v in a mk2? Big thanks from me for demonstrating that Lite does indeed seem to work on early mk2s.

They are contacts that make/break circuits as the vent control knob is moved to different positions, and possibly the temperature control too. There are only pairs of pads on the board (yellow rectangles) for two to be fitted on this variant - from a 9N Polo - but positions in the white plastic moulding for two others associated with the temperature control knob. Only the one fitted (in one of the green rectangles) as shown in this case, but I have taken this unit apart several times so the other may have dropped out and got lost/misplaced. The one here possibly senses when the knob is pointing at windscreen vents to do some A/C-related function, not sure what the other would do on this one if fitted. I think if there was one on the temperature control knob it would indicate 'max temp demanded' to the stuff controlling a PTC auxiliary electric heater, only fitted to diesel Fabias and only then as an option, ISTR. Have a look where there are similar pairs of gold-plated pads on your board and hope that there aren't too many choices to confuse matters!

Since you've already established that the PCM has no stored faults then you can safely ignore the engine for now. The Marelli ECU goes to sleep very quickly when the engine is stopped so you may need to cycle the ignition or start the engine to communicate with it.

Welcome to the dark side!

update on the software update ... not sure if it's always applicable OR it's due to the software plus the fact my car is 5+ years old ... but the regens do take longer now previously the duration was 16km approx, now is 32-36km And this is not a single case but at least 5-6 detected regens. I was told it's prolonging the life of the catalizator when it's aging

You have to be as bare-faced & as hard necked as they are. I have borrowed a demonstrator before now and refused to return it until they shorted out the Mot failure and show me the part they said it needed at the Free Service & MOT that had the parts replaced the year before when they had failed it before selling the car. I have borrowed a demonstrator and refused to return it until the Deposit & Interest was in my Account after the Dealership had failed to order a car and played me on for months and months past the time it was supposed to arrive. With some playing them at their own game is picking up something in the dealership and saying you are trying to rob me for the price of windscreen wash you never actually supplied and cheating the HMRC as well. If they say they will call the police tell them to do just that and explain what you have done trying to take money by false pretences. You find that Scottish Dealerships and the ones that do this deception / fraud as a common practice will reconsider the invoice.

Funny you should say that. I also found out this afternoon (after moaning above) that mine is status 30 and also on its way. We are probably on the same boat!

There might be your answer! Have you enabled a data connection when charging on your phone?

Confirmed in the Netherlands for cars after cw48.

Yes, I thought that those back containers were some active charcoal reservoirs, but then I noticed, it's fed by fuel line.. Now I noticed there's some sensor on the intake manifold. Maybe some early prototype with Bendix system or something like that? Bosch in the SPI model was different edit:I found a photo from another angle. It's Li/LSi model from Skoda museum - they were more rare than Estelle GLi, so there are not many photos or information - even this car in museum is described as ordinary 136L

Yeah they arent welded in place or anything of the sorts, only thing you actually replace on the car is the lower shock bolts which they give you longer ones. Like so: Yesterday when I was waiting for the brace to dry between coats I went and swapped out the springs for the ones I got with the coilovers, liked the springs I had but I think they were either just too long or too stiff for the shocks so changed them. But anyway, thats why I took the pic but it shows how the rarb bolts on. Only thing you "change" from the original suspension is the lower shock bolt, original ones too short to get the drop link on. A strut brace is a lot more permanent as it (in my mk2s case) will require a bit of cutting out of the rear trim to fit. Again doubt it will make much difference and I'm 100% sure it wont make as big of an improvement compared to a rarb. RARBs are the go to mod in on these cars for a reason, makes them twice the car to drive.

Could always take the whiteline off the car and put it onto your next car if its still a fabia/polo/ibiza, if not worst case you throw it up on facebook and get most of your money back.

my O3 1.4 tsi has done 230.000 km and is from May 2014. My local dealer in Holland advised replacement last year. "if it was my car" he said (in Dutch), "I wouldn't take the risk". Inspection of the belt he would not do, because it might look fine, but still be bad. First he said it was chain driven. Shows the level of in depth knowledge. It is still running on it's first belt. Today I inquired at the dealer in Belgium and he advised against replacement.

They are the switch contacts for the fan speed switch.They both need puting back into the rear of the knob.Then the knob should carefully put back into the middle position where it came from.

A rarb will do way more for a car that doesnt have it. The whiteline on mine made a massive improvement to the car especially on old standard suspension, just wish it was painted a little bit better its only on since January and the paints flaking off it already. Would keep an eye on Whitelines website though for black friday deals and what not. Might be able to get one cheap. The rarb for a fabia is a BWR19Z iirc, same for both mk1 and mk2.

Thanks Wino - I did have the car checked with a VCDS after the battery replacement (ECU needed to be reset to new battery). No errors came up. Looks dry under the passenger seat (as per above photo). I was thinking of pulling the amp connector and re-inserting it but worried if it might cause the headend to need reprogramming. But come to think of it - if cutting the power doesn't cause an issue, reseating the connector shouldn't!

Yeah, I'd suspect an issue with the catalytic converter, but all I know is "emissions light on". Which means there are (or should be) one or more fault codes.

Why get so technical about it, just raise them with a 5mm Allen key, sorted👍. If they magically reinstate themselves ( I doubt they will) you can lower them again with said Allen key.

Yes, but it is possible to accidentally turn the rotor arm one tooth on the distributor when lowering the unit back onto the crankshaft. I've seen a professional (mate of mine) do this, and he couldn't get the engine in question (Ford Essex V6) to run at all until he corrected this.

Being a Mk2 RS twincharger it has a dq200 DSG as they all have. So plenty threads down this page, In this forum and pinned up top on them. Someone will be along that can help or check those threads. Most recent will help. There was and still is a Recall on the. In Australia. 3 rd now.

I'm eagerly awaiting the delivery of the cable so I will update asap. Yes indeed, and I was impressed by the range of VCDS supported OS versions.. I think for this little netbook anything more than Windows XP would be a bit sluggish tho and not needed since i only need to run one program. Whilst clean installing XP it was also nice to reminisce about how this installer is only ~500mb and used to fit on a single CD! Windows 10 in comparison is ~5gb!

I actually have a petrol 2.0 147kw engine, googling dash signs gave "diesel filter", my bad. Car has done a little under 100k miles

Don't go driving about more than you might need to and wasting fuel just because the car is a TDI. You do not need to drive in Sport mode. If you find your are starting to have issues with the DPF then you might need to be doing longer trips. How many miles the car has done now over 10 years might well make a difference. Skodas have VW Group engines so the DPF's are across several makes of cars and the DPF's are in diesels since 2009 so much of a sameness over all manufacturers as how diesel cars and DPF's might behave.

I 'played' on 2 things. - Just remind that there's no recommendation to change the coolant pump before the timing belt, whose replacement is only recommended at 210000 km. Mine was really far from that with only 62000 km on the clock. - Simply mentioned that my customer satisfaction would strongly influence our decision regarding my wife's car replacement in 2022. But I don't really know what effectively made them decide to cover 90% of the coolant pump and related labor costs. 🤔

Be careful with the cheap ones off ebay or Aliexpress. Many of them don't include the mandatory side repeater built in to the corner of the lens and are very dim or non-existent from the side/rear. An MOT failure waiting to happen, depending on the tester. The ones from SuperSkoda are ok tho...

I think the problem appeared when I washed the wheels with the pressure washer. I will lift the car when the weather dries, and I will look at the connectors. At the moment, the lights disappeared after I drove a few minutes.

Buy borrow or hire a trailer. (Tyre pressures do not need to be at 3 bar) Doh, wrong thread.

Let me know how you get on with it. I've got a Windows XP-era laptop sitting spare that VCDS-Lite could go onto. Even if it does work under 10, I'd like to give this laptop another use too.

It works under windows 10 as well.

In all honesty I think a replacement or removal will be the only option.

Excellent!!!!!!!

I now also have it fixed I was due the cam belt change next year so also brought it forward and got the belt and pump changed for £458 at an independent VW garage and they even made room to get it done asap. Overall a good deal as the dealer quoted £699 just for the belt

That will be rectified tomorrow morning 🙂

Problem fixed! Coolant pump failure has been confirmed. Congratulation to my local dealer who managed to find available ressources in less than one week, and to replace the complete timing-belt, coolant pump and accessories belt kit and to obtain coverage form Skoda France in 1 day today! Skoda France finally covers the coolant pump and labor time at 90%. I've thus been charged for the remaining 10% as well as the other spare parts (timing belt and accessories belt). I finally paid 600€ instead of 895€. At least it will be a good selling point, when time for myMk3 replacement has come (probably end of 2022 of 2023). P.S.: I managed to get some pics of the pump. I'll post them here.

Skoda Favorit - production line, road test, crash test.

Nice to get some balance from an ev adopter who isn't in full-time propaganda mode. 🙂 There are a few around who are so evangelical and preachy that they probably put more people off than they enthuse. 4/5 not going back is the way the data looks to me though, not surprised from California where air quality is such a big problem.

Hi. I did in the end after trial and error with various leads. Don’t know why the one I ended up with worked. Longer than I would have liked but does the job.

175/60/14 I have Toyo Proxes CF2 tires with Tecnomagnesio rims.

Still a great car

So Been a LONG time since i've updated this, but I still have my Octy. It has, however, changed (quite a lot!) See below recent pic: If people are keen, I can do a write up in more detail of what i've been up to. Essentially, the car is now a lot more fast road focused and running circa 240bhp.