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Had my 1.6TDi for 56k miles and nearly 5 years. Apart from the noise that has already been mentioned and a desire for a 6th gear there is little to fault really. The car feels solid and ideal for trips way with the huge boot. I like the climate control especially. Only part that been replaced, apart from consumables is a fuel pressure sensor that failed at about 36K when car went into limp mode. Over the past 18 months I have had Scala, Kamiq and Octavia IV courtesy cars and none have inspired me enough to consider trading in my Octavia.

ah man can't believe i'm jealous of unconfirmed build weeks! 3 weeks ago i had a confirmed build week now still car hasn't been built or any form of build date allocated - i have no tears left

It's not CAN, @J.R. and @Douwe, not on this car. There are 4 wires but the two that aren't ignition switched 12V and earth go to either side of the motor at the washer pump on the fluid reservoir (as well as elsewhere). ErWin Skoda will sell you schematics for 7 euros plus tax, or I may be able to find some info later this evening.

Taken at Whitehaven.

Maybe in the UK but not here in Australia. My vRS does not do that 99% of the time. Only occasionally it will brake unnecessarily. It is just one of its many quirks. I have got used to giving it a prod on the accelerator in such situations.

Its called "Marketing"... Basically all companies want to make "x" percentage more profit than they did last year...... So if the market is saturated & your product sells well, instead of making it last longer & making your company more efficient, they all decide to make the previous model obsolete & flog an all new version...& in some cases just a reskin of the older one sold at an over inflated price... So to make their product stand out from everybody else's, they look for a "USP" (Unique selling point)...once they have that on their product all the other companies then look at this USP & copy it on their new versions...& so on.... ad nauseum. Forget saving the planet when you must "save the economy" by purchasing the latest whiz bang..... I seem to remember an old parable called "the Emperor's new clothes"...🤔... P.S. as somebody who has a bit of interest in engineering/design/etc...I prefer the old adage of "form following function"...unfortunately many products look crap, & don't even function properly...

Just had to charge mine its an efb battery i took it off the car and charged it in house for 24 hours till smart charger said it was full ,put it back on car this morn few errors popped up ,took car for a run ,turned steering lock to lock all cleared in a couple of mins all good now

heres the wiring diagrams..........I only charge 6 euros and no tax The circled 334 is where the track / run continues to the fuse box in the first piccy.

You cannot "reset" the battery management system, that really only gets done with installation of a new battery where coding is required via diagnostic like VCDS or OBDeleven, should be ok to remove it and charge it off the car. What charger do you have to charge it as if an AGM battery you need a specific charger for that type like a Ctek or Ring charger. I will warn you though, you will get numerous errors and dash lights when you first start up which should reset on their own except you will need to (whilst engine on and stationary, turn the steering wheel full left lock and full right lock and the drive in a straight line for a bit to reset the steering to put that light out.

A couple more photographs from yesterday's road trip...

Thank you very much I find useful everything you put here I'll do a scan and I'll attach pictures of work to completion I want to take the project to the end I hope not to get very expensive to have problems with my wife

This! and traction control off - now I will just get manageable wheel spin without the horrible wheel hop. Be warned, you will increase the vibration in the car, especially in reverse. Some cars are worse than others, plenty of info on the web especially on the golf gti, Audi S3 forums as it is the same setup. Everyone telling him to 'drive more responsibly' should maybe just not reply, at no point did he say this was on public roads did he? Anyway, I hated my wheel hop with stage 1 APR so fitted a dogbone insert from Powerflex, I went for the red one which is meant for diesel and supposed to be softer. I hate the extra vibrations but they are only in reverse so can live with it. You will need to get under the car and take a pic as there a two types of dogbone used and there is no way of knowing which one you have without looking.

We ordered our Kodiaq TDI sel dsg back in August. Picked it up yesterday from Garland Motors in Aldershot. (outstanding service from Rebecca in Sales 👍) We weren't in a rush and didn't expect to get it until next year so luck of the draw maybe ?

At gretna I went to the loo then had to join a team meeting so was on for about 20 minutes. Then at lunch by the time I parked up, walked over to the service area, went to the loo, decided what I wanted to eat, ate it and then came out the car was full. (so was I, the noodle bar was excellent) 😉

@sergiulupsac- in addition to the headlights, did u also buy a facelift bumper? With facelift fog lights and cornering lights? Wat year is ur pre-facelift? Wat headlights did it come with originally? I'm not surprised nothing works. It's not plug n play. There has been significant changes to the headlights and taillights with facelift. There will b a need to modify existing wiring looms and or modules.

It was a similar situation for me in Bucharest - you can see the details on the previous page of this topic. Long story short, they wanted to know if I would give up the park-assist (had it before, never used) and the rear-view camera (I'd like to have, but it's not a must). The time estimates were ambiguous, but with a quite clear difference: - if I remove the 2 options, the car will be delivered within the initial estimates of the Contract (35-45 weeks starting August), most likely well before the deadline; - if I keep the options they will not be able to specify any delivery estimate, even beyond 45 weeks. I decided that if I won't be able to live without the camera, I'll retrofit it using the money they gave back from the initial Contract. For instance: I wouldn't have given up the Matrix-LED, or the ACC... you should decide based on what's really important for you.

To expand on what was written just above: "Sport" in the Driving mode affects a few things al-together: Throttle response, steering weight, suspension (if the car has DCC), cornering lights speed, A/C operation etc. (there may be more I am forgetting) PLUS it switches the gearbox to its S mode as it assumes you'd like it that way. However, the gearbox can always be set independent from the driving modes via flicking the stick to D or S. Examples: - If you want to be in Normal Driving mode for everything but would like the earlier downshifts and later up-shifts of the gearbox's S mode, leave Driving Mode to Normal and simply flick the stick to S. - Similarly, if you want everything firmer but don't want the gearbox to hang on gears for longer choose Sport Driving mode, it will put the gearbox to S too, then flick back the stick once to switch to D. This will leave the car in Sport mode (overall) and the gearbox to its normal, economy biased operation. In addition, there is a third gearbox mode which is only accessible indirectly, via the Driving modes, and that's E (ECO). Normally, flicking the stick only cycles from D to S. But if you choose ECO Driving mode you will see the gears now have a prefix of the letter E (E1, E2). In this mode, after every application of throttle followed by a lift off, the car coasts in Neutral (you will see just "E" and no gear indicator in the dash) until throttle or brake is re-applied. Maybe this is considered an engine mode for Skoda/VW but to me it's clearly a third gearbox mode, further supported by the fact the gears now are E1, E2 etc. Again, the gearbox can be changed to S (as you did) despite the car being in ECO mode.

Now I know the cars definitely been looked after, the previous owners surname was LightFoot 😁😁

Hi there, I'm looking into buying a second hand Fabia, looking for any common faults, and things to look out for on a Fabia at this age. Priced at £1,200 It has around 90k on the clock, good MOT history (and fresh MOT) with nothing sticking out, apparently has a "good" service history but of course I haven't looked at that yet. Timing belt done 20k miles ago with proof. Any recommendations on what else to look out would be much appreciated! Thanks

Hi All Just picked up my 2016 Octavia VRS this week, love it! looking forward to being part of the forum! Cheers Steven

I agree, but sadly the dealer are in complete denial! They never at any point asked why it’s an issue, they showed complete contempt. Worse is they acknowledged they had another customer with exactly the same issue that they managed to dismiss with ‘Skoda said that’s normal’. Not sure how that will work when they have an accident!

Should there be power to the brake light circuit when the ignition is off and the car locked? If not then I cannot see a faulty switch causing the problem, I would first check if they still operate with the ignition off, if they do then I would lock myself in the car with the key and wait a couple of minutes for things to settle down, (try not to move & set the alarm off!) then test again. It's possible that even if the brake lights dont work with the ignition off there is still the control current voltage to the switch monitored by the body control module, any activation when locked would be treated as an intruder. Disconnecting the alarm horn seems a sensible move, if it is no longer working it will most likely be draining the battery in any case, it could be causing the anomoly, no rational reason why but there often isn't.

Ha, no, I didn’t tighten it by mistake. one thing I noticed was a few other bolts were quite tight. When I last put them on I was using a brand new digital torque wrench. Despite setting it correctly I’m wondering if it’s not calibrated correctly and has over tightened them? I’ll have to compare it to my standard torque wrench. Yes, I absolutely need a good quality 6 sides socket and wrench/brace, the socket that cracked was a 12 point socket. I’m off to get a Halfords Advanced/Professional socket tomorrow. They do decent looking 18” Advanced breaker bar that I’ll take a look at.

Put yourself in their position. Skoda produce this ****e but the dealers are bound by their rules and have huge investments at stake. Not fair for you or them. I don't use ACC any more and that's fine because I leave it switched off. What I find dangerous is the aggressive lane keep assist that I have to turn off each time I start the car.

No mines a 2016 vrs and i believe its not available in the maxidot ,smart charger said it were full anyhoo ,and you can tell ,car starts so much quicker and smoother ,battery is five years old and i do short journeys in the week ,so if it goes in next few months i will upgrade to a agm battery

As Ryan said above - Judge the car on the condition and test drive. As yet and I am open for correction on this the Mk1 Fabia tends not to suffer catastrophic rot. Get a good look around and satisfy yourself that all is in order - Make sure the panel gaps and paint finish are uniform. Any crash damage and signs of fresh paint would ring alarm bells with me anyway. The person selling - are they trustworthy ....? Take the car for a drive - Are you happy with the way it drives? - Does it pull to the left or right ? Does it make untword grinding when you brake ? Does it brake square ? Does it bounce or rattle when it hits a bump or a ramp ? All these can be used to bargain with but altogether and Id walk away !! Do a bit of due diligence and a HPI check or take a friend or relative along and get their take on it ! I know of a 1.4 TDi with 172k miles and still going great - The secret is regular servicing and driven sympathetically. £1200 ..? Offer them £900 and see what way they are thinking .. Then go half split every time a figure is mentioned ... I love to haggle and bargaining. 😆

Update - Skoda Service say the garage has no new update for my VIN and Reg. They said that the factory has not released a fix for the multiple MIB issues on my car. I reminded the handler that we said we would discuss new hardware. The reply was no new hardware discussion whilst software upgrade is pending but that they didn’t give deadlines for new software. I reminded her that there is nonetheless a deadline in that my warranty is now in month15. She said they wouldn’t leave me high and dry. I politely asked for that in writing but she said they don’t put ‘goodwill’ in writing. I told her that members of the online community with the exact same year and model as mine have new hardware because the original MIBs were beyond redemption with software alone. She said she’d update me in a week and at some point she would discuss new hardware but that it is a warranty issue and that SkodaService don’t get involved with warranty claims. I politely told her that if the problems persist it is continuing evidence of improperly trialled hardware/software inherent at the point of sale. She agreed that she would support with escalating to a complaint if needs be. Do those of you with new hardware have similar experiences or have your dealers championed your cause under warranty?

SKODA ENYAQ IS TEST DRIVEN ON EPISODE 2 OF FIFTH GEAR RECHARGED, NEW VERSION OF FIFTH GEAR FOR ALL ELECTRIC VEHICLES.

Reviews of new HR-V have to be taken with a large helping of salt! Most testers are not driving it like a Hybrid should be driven, e.g. if you floor it the revs will skyrocket to maximise power but if you are more gentle on accelerator you can make just as quick progress without the engine stressing. Several testers have a better view and even AutoExpress on their second test (in UK) praised the car. Have a look at the Honda forums - look at Honda Jazz 2020 forum where there are more informed views from potential buyers who have actually driven the HR-V around.

if you're taking mani off there's alot of fuel lines, clips and brackets to remove/move to get to the mani bolts, the mani, motor, egr and throttle come off together just remove hose from bottom of throttle and pipe on egr, first time took me around 3.5 hours second time less than 2,

Ordered my Octavia SEL 1.5TSI on 14th August 2021. Was given a build week of 43 (w/c 25 th October) checked with dealer today and the car is built and waiting at Emden for shipping. Hopefully will get it in the next 3 or 4 weeks.

Although some seem to have had trouble with the sunroof leaking (forums are famed for fault reporting etc), I can say (fingers crossed!), that in over 5 years of ownership mine has not succumbed. All I will say is I don't tend to open it as the air con does it for me and the main attraction I find is the light and airy ambiance it gives to the cabin. It's a great car, enjoy it!

Just changed my silica bag filled Expansion Bottle for the one without the bag today. Love an easy job as it took no more than 10mins to complete. Car is on 32k miles, so I think I will have the coolant changed at the 40k mile service and every other service afterwards. Change the coolant frequently, just like the old days.

I have a sunroof and so bought this one: Sunglasses Holder for Polo 6R for Seat Leon St MK3 5F Glasses Case Roof Grab Storage Box for Skoda Octavia 3 Kodiak Rapid 2019|Glasses Case| - AliExpress which replaces the grab handle above the driver's door. It was an easy job to remove the grab handle and fit this instead. I've seen dealers selling the central one for cars without a sunroof, so presume it should be easy to fit and suggest you ask them? Chris

Pictures speak a thousand words then im sure we can resolve the issue

How does that work? My real world data with 13p per kWh electricity tells me it costs 3.2p per mile. It's still far from 10.4p per mile using 53.5 MPG car at ~£1.20 per litre diesel over previous 4 years (only refueled diesel twice since the petrol-panic-price-increase to £1.50 per litre). So even at double 26p per kWh electricity, what most off-street parking charges, it would still be cheaper per mile than an efficient diesel. It needs to be over 45p per kWh to be more expensive than a diesel. More for a non-hybrid petrol. Checking my spreadsheet and updated with Nov data from the car. I got 3.96 miles per kWh over total 31k miles we've driven in our Leaf. So average of 3.8 mi/kWh a slightly smaller car is totally believable. Of course, there's 20% of charging loss we need to add on for cost of electricity we actually pay. But still far less than 45p/kWh break-even point I derived above. That's on the fuel. As mentioned in the video, also servicing cost savings, road tax savings. For some, also ULEZ and congestion charge savings. My diesel Skoda at similar age to Leaf and costed me same to buy need to pay both ULEZ and C charge.

Being the tight git that I am, I'm not paying £35 for something totally useless. As if my Nissan Leaf can make it to France haha Topical video about cost of EV's: video

I wasn't sure if there are actually 52 build weeks in a year, or due to planned shutdowns there may be less? ...and therefore calendar week not necessarily the same as build week as we progress through the year? ...or on the other hand do shutdown weeks have build week numbers but no vehicles are built?

So with all these continuing issues and no real end in sight. I have a VWFS lease and as of yesterday complained and told them of my many woes and that they were not unique to me or the car. I said on the call that if i had even just one of these faults with say a new TV ( software) i would return the set to the store immediately. I told them that i have had the car at the dealers 8 times in the 9 months of lease and i believed i had been more than patient waiting for a successful outcome. VWFS said , what be a successful outcome for you. So i asked for a full refund of all 9 monthly payments emphasising that consumers are not the beta software testers for the goods they sell and in fact the car fails the sales of goods act on the point of fit for purpose. I also asked for an extended warranty should the car get fixed. Finally saying if it cannot be fixed at the next dealer visit then it needs to be full rejection. I really dont want this as i love the mechanics and drive of the car and the attention from other car fans. I await their call and the next steps. If i get to the point of rejection its onwards to full electric and for me that's sad as the VRS was to be my last petrol indulgence knowing that electric was the next car.

Had a mysterious power steering fluid leak: The pump fell off, compared to the mk1 we can see it pretty clearly. Managed to get it back in and its not leaking so far , Looks to have been replaced at one point so most likely just wasnt put in right. Saying that, I don't know when it was changed, and I'll have driven the car 20000 miles since I got it in the next week or so, most of that done this year alone. In other words its held up for quite a while and taken quite a lot of abuse before coming apart. Happy the pump and all is still ok and it just took a bit of persuading to go back on.

Fit one of these & forget about the EGR. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/183869556154?hash=item2acf7ac5ba:g:OaAAAOSw-DRdHK14 The EGR isn't fit for purpose IMHO.

Next video now on line Wigan to Livingston

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@Tanya only ever made 2 posts, that one and one other somewhere else.

Unfortunately this unit, as well as 5Q0035819, supports MirrorLink only. To have SmartLink enabled you must have the unit exchanged - if you are interested pls contact me on PM. All others pls check your PM.

Well, all sorted, went and got it read with a hope of a repair (took 4 hours for them to read it and tell me they didnt have the part) Booked in again a week later and all fixed, 'twas a faulty DPF sensor. Now with a bit of luck I'll get the car sold this week 🙂

It's possible the screen wash hose has become detached from the nozzle in the boot. I'd first check the nozzle isn't blocked, pop open the hinged cap on the wiper stalk and pull off the nozzle then try the rear screen wash again, it should shoot straight out the back of the car so don't have anyone standing behind it (unless you want to ) , If that works then it's best case scenario and the pump is ok and the pipes are ok so soak the nozzle in Vinegar for a while and clean it out with a needle and refit it. Probably best to clean the nozzle out anyway. If no screen wash comes out and you can hear the pump buzzing when you activate it then remove inside panel from the boot lid and check to see if the pipe has become disconnected there, if so reconnect and clean the nozzle to be sure it doesn't blow off again. If the pump. nozzle and rear connection are all good then it has become blocked/detached further back and there are others here who have had this issue and can guide you better. See other threads in here for guidance. Also check the spare wheel well and carpets for water, it can accumulate in the wheel well and a damp carpet might help identify where the problem is.

Spillage? Topping up batteries or even batteries venting fluid is so last century!

I have just installed this very professional mod https://theupgrade.haus/products/parcel-shelf-lifter-kit . Cost £14.99 and worth every penny. Very straightforward to fix as long as you feel comfortable drilling holes in the bodywork and parcel shelf.