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I don't have a diesel car now, but I have had 5 fitted with dpfs and never had any issues at all with engines or dpfs over a total of ~330,000 miles. This mileage was done almost exclusively on supermarket fuel. I don't think that there is any evidence that supermarket fuels are bad for engines, as the fuel still has to comply with legal standards.

are you complaining about other people complaining ? 😁

Breaking F1 news, A rule change for 2022 all cars will now be required to be a 2 seater, so the company lawyer can advise or take control of the car for any on course decisions

Does the driver's door have a rear window isolation switch?

Assuming the key is removed properly by a dealer or decent independent/auto-locksmith: - the remote fob will not unlock car - the immobiliser chip will not start the car - the key blade will still unlock the drivers door and likely unlock the steering lock I believe that using the key blade to unlock the car will cause the alarm to sound after 30s but I'm not 100% sure If you get a new key from a dealer, the old key should be removed during the programming. Basically the car gets put in to a learning mode and needs each key presenting in turn to learn. As the old one is missing, it won't be present and impossible to learn

A couple from yesterday's walk........

Sorry for posting another sunset picture 🤗

Ive been a bit quite with the updates, but I have been beavering away in the background. I'll get some update pics up asap. But I've had to evict the vrs from the garage as I had a new toy turn up.

Skoda employee ?

I would beg to differ based on around 250,000 miles in Skoda Diesels and a similar further mileage in various petrol vehicles, all of which have been run almost exclusively on the cheapest supermarket fuel available. As an aside I have also quizzed a friend about the above assertion, he being a Chemical Engineer and production controller for TOTAL and someone who has worked as a 'troubleshooter' in oil refineries around the world. His response was (paraphrased) - all the UK stuff is the same stuff to the same standards with largely the same additives, coming from a small number of refineries. So 'supermarket' fuel or not it's the same, so if someone experiences an issue it's being caused by something other than the 'quality' of the fuel. The one exception to this is something like the contaminated fuel issues experienced a couple of years ago.

If I could place a bit on it with SKY Bet, I'd wager that things will not change. It's done and dusted. At least the Ham-ster gets a knighted on Wednesday

I've just been told my mid-August ordered car has left the factory, however I was never even given a build date. Went straight from 'not accepted by the factory' to 'built'. VRS but without any of the problem options like Canton or 360 cameras. This is way better than I was expecting and seems to have surprised the dealer too.

Ugh Skoda is causing a lot of headaches... Have just received a call from my dealer with an estimate of march/april 2022... Ordered end of june 21 but registered beginning july 21 as an order.

It was my 1.9 mk1 with the issues, the obd reader was a godsend, my one was this https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/312580965038?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2648 there are much cheaper ones out there but knew this one worked as I had borrowed my mate's previously. The app was the torque lite (free) on android (setup the obd reader through the app not the phones pairing options, that had me for a good half hour) Make sure you're getting some data through live by adding an rpm display or something comparable. Press the settings 'gear' button Then press the settings 'spanner option' -data logging and upload -select what to log --three dots in top right to add metrics (for mine I had manifold pressure, maf, turboboost and vacuum gauge, engine rpm and speed [obd]) -go back -file logging interval (1 second for me) -back out to the normal display -gear button -toggle logging (small info should appear at bottom saying logging enabled) DRIVE -gear button -toggle logging (small info should appear at bottom saying logging stopped) -gear button -email logs -csv -email yourself and then open properly with excel or equiv (graphs don't like the timestamps it uses so I added an additional column to extract only the time part [formula =TIMEVALUE(MID(A2,11,9)) where A2 is the timestamp cell] Shout if you need anything else

What total nonsense about UK Supermarket Diesel. Or even world wide. More than half the cars and greater than half of vehicles in the UK are using diesel and more than half of that comes from Super Market forecourts or the Fleet / Depots are supplied with the same diesel from the suppliers like Greenergy that is the biggest road fuel supplier in the UK. https://www.greenergy.com/uk https://www.allstarcard.co.uk/news-insights/fuel-and-fleet/fleet-news/supermarket-fuel Look at the Diesel Pump you use and see if you can see a Cetane number. https://jct600.co.uk/blog/fuel-types-explained The OP is in Romania. @BogdanB If your DPF is clogging then you will have to deal with that and Additives are not going to be the asnswer. Do you now the ash level your car has?

For reference this was low enough to need shorter drop links. Not sure of how much of a drop it is because I didnt measure it before and after. Weirdly my mk2 is sitting about as low and Its perfectly fine with standard drop links.

Some oldies from when I dug out my Canon Powershot A560

Hi Guys Here's mine, fresh out of the box, demo+1, 6mths, 6k. Haven't even had time for a photo shoot, so an original dealer photo and one of mine in the Showroom Looking forward to putting some winter tyres on it and getting some miles under it. Looks sharp in White, however, I don't think there is a bad colour in the range

Hi. Fabia 1.6TDI 2011, 133,000 miles, gives me P2279 Intake air leak error code. I can't find any leaks, but the OBD2 scanner shows the throttle position as 88.6% constantly, even at idle and the throttle actuator at 95%, also constantly. If I clear the codes and drive it hard, it will go for miles without any problem, but as soon as I slow down it throws the fault and drops into limp mode. I am assuming that this process means that as long as everything else agrees with the throttle position, it's happy? Would the throttle position fault create sufficient airflow confusion to the rest of the system to create the P2279 fault or can anyone suggest an alternative possibility? I can't find anything online that corresponds with this issue. Thanks for any suggestions.

No, no, no, you'd never get a job at a proper Italian garage. 😁 It's about accelerating to open the old tubes and keeping in your power band but for as long as possible have the gearbox, clutch steering and brakes well exercised not high speeds motorway dashes. Get the engine oil temperature up and keep it there. No need to drive silly or break any laws, just well spirited - British Italian tune-up.

CV joints have also been replaced since I thought I may aswell do them when I had the gearbox out so it wasn't that on mine

+1 The LEDs require big heat sinks and/or cooling fans. @Gabrielem - Get better D3S bulbs instead - u'll get far better results. I've got Phillips xTremeVision Gen 2s - they're brilliant in all conditions. https://youtu.be/v3BgUfsupkM

Thanks @AnnoyingPentium I am a Mech Eng and used to solving logic problems, but this one just doesn't! 🙂

This suggests a throttle pedal position sensor to me, based off my own experience. However, if I'm wrong then I'm fine with being corrected.

Codes were reset but came up with the same fault pretty much straight away. I'm booked in for replacement sensors next week, but wanted to make sure the fuel want the issue. Many thanks for replying

Sounds like the aerial only picks up FM & DAB. Is there a separate connector for an AM (MW/LW) aerial?

I was polite, I wanted to know if you really believed that there were no additives in supermarket fuel which you have not answered. Have you perhaps confused my posting with Root-Toot who spoke of 'total nonsense!" I am not disputing that some additives in premium fuels which may not be present in supermarket fuel bring benefits and many say that they get better MPG which covers the extra cost, I am not disagreeing with or challenging anything, I simply wanted to know if you genuinely believe that there are no, zero, none, additives in supermarket fuel or had just expressed yourself incorrectly. I recall when fuel, supermarket or otherwise had no additives apart from lead and made my (2nd) living decoking engines, replacing rotten exhausts, changing filthy congealed sump oil etc, then they started adding detergent additives to all fuels including supermarket fuels and I have never had to decoke an engine or grind in valves ever since,(racecars aside) it was late 80's perhaps early 90's. My pal worked for a nationwide company supplying fuel pumps & forecourt equipment and another delivered fuel from the refineries, all the fuels had additive packages, the premium fuels had different ones that they made big claims for but a lot of what they claimed was in the basic additive package anyway, they may have had higher percentages of some and different versions of others, they don't publish what they are.

The Superb MK2 only uses 55mm front shock absorbers.

I have 14 inch rims 5.5j with 175/60 tyre, in the past i had factory 13 inch rims with 165/70 Matador tyres. My Toyo are the CF22.

I thought about doing this a little while ago - does any one know of any reliable manufacturer & VCDS compatible (i.e., minimum faffery) solutions for this? Would of course be keen to wire up discreet LED spots behind the main grill á lá unmarked car, but very close to impersonation of an emergency service vehicle - and also additional loom wiring = increased faffery.

If any tools are included in a car, they are for emergency use only - not for use twice a year to swap summers for winters etc. And as mentioned, it´s normal for new cars not to have such tools included, since they either have "self healing" tires or a emergency compressor with some tire sealer. So I really don´t understand the fuzz; if you need to do brake work or swap tires around, you will have to buy proper tools no matter what.

Mine's from Feb 2017, just hit 34k so not quite 100,000 yet!

Thank you I have contacted now the original sales person and also customer support at Skoda UK. Very surprised that Skoda service person cannot tell me if in principle faults I described are warranty covered.

The original brake foot pedal switch I took off has a VW mark on it and is part number 6Q0945511. My local dealer hadn't got one in stock and I desperately needed to get the car back on the road so sourced a switch made by Intermotor (Standard Motor Products Europe Ltd) with a main number on the box label 51616. Where is the second switch located?

Thank you so much, I'll look more into that, I really appreciate it!

The steering knuckles will need to be changed.

Dude, the post you're replying to was 13 years ago.

My DPF was cleaned one year ago, so the ash level is pretty low(was set to a value of 5.5g since it wasn't a new part replacement, and now it's around 7g) , and the DPF is functioning normally ( I would say, e.g: Regens occur at around 250 miles, and around half of that if driving ONLY in the city ).

Getting a replacement key from a main dealer is expensive but it is a new and not cloned key, the old ones RF chip is deleted from the ECU so it can't start the car, it will of course open the drivers door, I don't know but would say its a reasonable assumption that VAG having gone that far then the key would no longer work the remote central locking. A cheaper cloned key from Ebay or a vehicle locksmith will not disable the lost key. I hope when you put your appeal on Facebook you did not say what make or model your vehicle was or give any clues to where you live.

Ok, so the problem isn't the washer pump itself (if it were the front wash would be intermittent too). The most likely issue is a water leak as @AnnoyingPentium suggested upthread. From your other symptoms I'd start with the connection at the rear wiper and work forwards.

They're going to appeal and have 96 hours.... The stewards need their heads wobbling before next season.

My take on it, FWIW, is that producing cars right now must be a logisitical nightmare, with part finished cars being stored up, some orders that can't be completed, some that can be completed in one go etc etc. Putting all of these cars into some sort of order probably requires the logistics to be considered first and foremost, with honoring the chronological order of the orginial orders some way down the priority list, if indeed it makes that list at all. So from the outside it looks fairly random, but I imagine there is a system at work in there somewhere..

Its common to have 2 pairs of contacts or two switches, one will operate the brake lights, on our vehicles usually indirectly via the body control module, the other sends a signal to the ECU which it uses to cut the power when the brakes are applied, its for emissions but also safety were the throttle to stick fully open or the output signal doing the same. It prevents me left foot braking over speedhumps when carrying heavy loads and also from bedding in brake pads, on my 95 Galaxy I shunted the ECU contact so it never got the signal because my journeys were always laden over loads of speed humps, after 3 months it generated a fault code "brake switch XYZ123 implausible signal"!!!!

There are actually two switches in there in the same package, maybe the one that doesn't do the bulbs was the problem. I'm not aware of any way that a mechanical switch can make bulbs blow, more likely just age. What part number is the old one, please @Albie10, or the new one you bought if the other is already in a bin?

Thanks for reporting. I think I've read on this site that there was a software update to overcome the car getting the screaming abdabs and going into panic mode if the a brake light area showed a fault. VW and Skoda not quite as clever at programming as they thought, but they did (almost) perfect it for later shenanigans.

We had a phenomenal double rainbow on Monday. Unusual light around as well. Picture doesn't do it justice of course:

Thanks to Paul80x - worked a treat and the seatbelt well has now been filled with a foam cutout.

Latest Updated Speedcams - November, 2021. Here's the latest update of my customised version of EUR Speedcams ( November, 2021). They consist of the full EUROPE speed cameras which I've split up into four consolidated poi categories i.e. Fixed Speedcams, Average Speedcams, Variable Speedcams and Redlight Speedcams. They come supplied with my own preferred personal choice of icons, shown below, to match each of the categories. Remember to Install them as I explained in the first post in this thread i.e. after extracting the zip file remember to open the newly extracted folder and place only the PersonalPOI folder and metainfo2.txt file onto your sd card ( Please Note: a usb stick will not work! ). Also, please remember to select/tick the relevant newly added poi categories and the poi audible warning alert in your infotainment map menu settings after performing the update or they will not display on your map or audibly alert you. Hope you all enjoy them! EUR Speedcams November, 2021.zip

It will be your toe bushes - the inside ones of the arm where the coil spring sits https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/293518585672?hash=item4457122f48:g:chgAAOSwu6tedIY~ powerflex bush No10 will be the ones for toe https://powerflexstore.co.uk/skoda/octavia-mk2-1z-2004-2012/powerflex-rear-lower-spring-mount-inner-octavia-mk2-1z-2004-2012-pfr85-510/