Leaderboard

The lake is still partially frozen this evening..........

Check the tyre depths yourself with a tyre depth gauge or other measuring instrument. My car was serviced at the dealer and they reported 3mm on the front, 2 weeks later the car was in for its MOT at the same place, and the fronts had magically grown to 5mm

I wrote a little story. https://inoneear.substack.com/p/robs-audi-quattro?r=db0vk&utm_campaign=post&utm_medium=web Planning to do some interviews and build this into something. Tell people's stories of their cars. More about the person and the relationship with the car than the car itself.

Anyone else remember the Peugeot 206 advert featuring an elephant! Peugeot 206 - Elephant Sits On Car - Advert Commercial - Bing video

Heavy tint that won't pass test?

I doubt. lol

Fitted my 2nd hand Skoda roof bars (picking up a huge roof box tomorrow), also fitted a rear bumper guard to protect/hide some nasty chips and scratches from previous owner's dog. The 'silver' option (of 3, plus black or stainless) is a surprisingly close match to my silver car.

And a couple of us would like any kind of news 😂

For the technically minded you can replace/edit the hosts file on any Windows or for that matter Linux or Apple system, to block known threats, I use one of the hosts file from https://github.com/StevenBlack/hosts https://www.howtogeek.com/howto/27350/beginner-geek-how-to-edit-your-hosts-file/ One point to note is if you install a very large hosts file like those in Steven Blacks website, when you reboot your computer, it can take a few minutes for your wifi to become active as the OS scan the dns blacklist. Alternatively you can install the ublock origin extension on Firefox or Chrome which will provide a similar level of protection. https://chrome.google.com/webstore/detail/ublock-origin/cjpalhdlnbpafiamejdnhcphjbkeiagm?hl=en Or do both! Banking apps on modern mobiles are pretty good and offer good security.

Placed my order end of Sept, in December had to modify the order (skoda discontiued extras) spoke to dealer today who told me they have been advised of delays to VRS of upto 52 weeks - presumably new orders. Still dont have a build date so have called it a day and cancelled my order. Will revisit once the supply situation calms down, then again Audi RS3 for pretty much the same price..... might just switch queues

Just be thankful you haven’t ordered a Toyota Land Cruiser, as there is now a 4 year waiting list in Japan https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/business-60078594

Hi Everyone, I'm new here so please forgive a topic which may have been done to death. My background is field service engineering, so I am used to finding obscure problems and repairing them without the benefit of all the spare parts! The rear screen wiper on our Mk2 Scout became intermittent and then stopped all together a while back, and I think I've round the solution! In this case though its not obscure at all - it's a very common issue with any system where a printed circuit has solid connections to the outside world, especially where these connections are the mechanical anchors for the board. The rear screen wiper drive assembly contains a small PCB, with connections to a 4 pin connector (earth, +12, and two control pins). Internally, here are two connections to the motor which are made via soldered pins within the assembly - and that's the problem. In my Skoda Scout, the soldered joints on these connections were "dry" where either due to poor soldering at manufacture or vibration induced fatigue failure of the solder, the joint looses integrity. It's simple to fix if you're handy with a small soldering iron - and a breeze if you have prior experience as a hobbyist in electronics. Getting to the assembly inside the rear door is the hardest part - popping the cover off - but I'll leave that for you to look up how to do this on this site and or any number of others! I removed the whole drive assembly - unplug the cable, take off wiper arm, and remove three 10mm head bolts, but if you're a contortionist you might be able to do the job without assembly removal. You will see a small rectangular cover (about 35mm X 25mm) on the front (/back?!) face of the assembly near the connector - use a fingernail to get it off, a screwdriver is not required. You'll see the PCB as in the attached picture (sorry about focus but its good enough!). I have arrow-ed the two offending connections. If you use a decent magnifying glass youll see that the solder around one or both the pins looks like its cracked and crumbly - that's classic "dry joint" appearance! Ideally, remove the existing solder (with solder wick or a "solder sucker") and then carefully re-solder those two joints. If you can't remove the existing solder, though, just apply a minimum amount of quality resin-cored (electronics) solder and apply enough heat to allow the solder to flow around the pins. Inspect the joins to make sure the surface is nice and shiny with no cracks. Incidentally, the joints on that board look too shiny to be ROHS compliant non-Lead solder, so you might find old school lead-tin solder if you have any, will be easier. Clip the cover back on, reconnect the cable and give it a test - in my car (2l Diesel Scout) the engine has to be running for the rear wiper to work (that had me tricked for a while! (-: ) Respond with any comments or questions! As a newbie, I welcome constructive input!

Dacia intend to keep adding lightness. https://autocar.co.uk/car-news/new-cars/dacia-plots-gradual-ev-roll-out-maintain-affordable-pricing

5 months in, the Dacia still hums along, still guzzling LPG though due to the 1500 foot hill on the way to the shops. It really is the automotive value and performance equivalent of cheaper branded white goods, just doing everything required to an OK standard and nothing more. Although unlike BEKO electricals, it hasn't tried to burn down the kitchen yet.

Thanks.

This flew over (@37000 feet) earlier......

@lazybones251Welcome. If you have the skills you can do anything, Sounds like you have not. It might look naff but as long as you like it. So have you found a R5 Body kit that you can afford to buy to start chopping about? http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/484365-body-mods

Could it be fuel starvation? Change the fuel filter and note if the electric in tank booster pump is working.....

Modularer Infotainment Baukasten or Modular Infotainment System

Exactly why I want mine built, I don't lease or fleet and I won't be changing.

From what you say it is a European car imported in with a European map that worked. Check it still works with one of the smaller zones that fit the 16gb card. Having checked the card is fine then do the steps 1-7, you might not need to go beyond step 7. The method has been used by quite a few of your country folk on import cars... Well two I know 😂.

https://www.autotrader.co.uk/content/news/mandatory-speed-limiters-on-uk-cars-from-2022#:~:text=The European Commission has reached,ISA) by 7 July 2024.

Simply Clever is if a tyre or another tyre is losing pressure between setting the TPMS and a warning is check if the tyre bead is leaking maybe because of corrosion on the wheel or a valve before looking for more reasons. If the tyre pressure check is accurate and the odd tyre is only dropping 1 or 2 psi as in the OP maybe the issue is not just that reduction in pressure so the tyre circumference.

I very much agree. Nothing like an Italian tune up. There's nothing wrong with giving the car a blast every now and then. I'm starting to do more motorway miles now and I'm noticing the car is doing a lot of active regens. On the motorway because of the cold weather, my car doesn't get up to temperature quickly. Talking a good few miles to get up to proper water temperature and best part of 10 miles for the oil to be 70+'c. This is from finishing at well past midnight and the temperature is close to 0'c. Come the end of the journey, can't say I see the oil getting close to 90'c often. It's often lower when there's the 50mph cameras on for the roadworks. I'll have to take my VCDS to work tonight and run it all the way home, because I can't see the EGT's getting high enough quick enough Last week before I filled up, I came off the motorway a junction earlier, gave it a blast down the back B road by me and got the car well up to temperature (fans blasting and oil 100'c+) and the active regen it was attempting to do got finished.

yep, freaked me out a bit the first time I encountered them - folks are still down there and I hadn't visited in ages - but it certainly helps get across the carriageway safely. When they introduced the 50 limit for that stretch it seemed to actually make it harder to get across (steady stream of traffic, fewer big gaps) than when people were allowed to do 70 (and some did more)

yes but back then you could'nt completely turn it off, the op says he has turned it off from day 1, if it's' turned off you would think the battery would last the same length of time as a normal remote

Hi all! it's been a while since my last update and I've got a few little things done since then. The main improvement is the Octavia VRS MK1 spider alloys and Michelin CrossClimate tyres, I drove up to Edinburgh and back in mid December so I though all season tyres were probably wise! Excuse the mud and dirt, excess miles and rural areas do that, but the 17" wheels really fit the car and fill the arches properly, although the rear still looks very high. The rain performance is 10x better as well, the car feels planted unless you get really silly and refuses to aquaplain no matter how hard I try (in a controlled environment, of course). When I bought the alloys they were horrifically kerbed and scratched up, so much so that I didn't want them on the car in that state so I sanded, primed, painted and lacquered them. Unfortunately I only had two days to do this so the lacquer didn't dry properly and took some of the paint off, making the finish look **** poor but it'll do until I can afford to have them properly refurbed. The best bit about these tyres? they cost me £50 for the set with 5-6mm tread, courtesy of @Subseaeng, who is a lovely gent! Overall £200 for a set of wheels and tyres, not bad. The next addition was a false floor for the boot, I go on frequent dog walks and there's a considerable drop between the folded rear seats and the boot floor which can't be comfortable for the puppers, the false floor should level this. Just finding the damn thing was a ******, I couldn't find it for sale anywhere online, official Skoda or aftermarket! In the end I trawled through a Skoda parts manual, found the part number, rang my local dealer and ordered it direct from Skoda UK. Do you want to guess how much a false boot floor for a Skoda hatchback costs? £92....profiteering czech *****. I must admit though it adds a lot of practicality to the car, my coats and shopping bags go under the floor, the doggos are comfy and the van-like rear cargo area is very useful! Almost worth the ninety two f*cking quid. Not really.

Everything is removable with a large enough hammer, as long as there is nothing behind it you should not have a problem with careful drilling but suggest you try and source a spare dummy cover for when you try and sell the car on as it will put of future buyers with a hole in the dash.

Hey guys sorry I haven’t posted in a while some exiting things coming in the next month , as some of you may know my factory dq200 has threw its toys out of the pram we all knew it was going to Happen and we all knew it was inevitable… it had standard clutch packs that were fitted from factory in 2012 it had the original mechtronics unit also… all that was different from oem was the stage three tune on it. So I’m doing something crazy and I will be the first person in the world to do it to a fabia I believe . It has been done in cupras and polo’s before, we are taking a dq250 6 speed wet clutch from a 2008 golf mk5 gt and putting it in the fabia if you look at costings then it really is a no brainer full dq250 gearbox with mech unit £300 Kevlar clutch packs £800-900 please welcome our donor (engine included) im thinking of doing something crazy with the engine also 🔥😎 many feedback welcome 🤗

Might also be worth asking in the Octavia IV forum if you haven't already.

That'd be the Amundsen II with Smartlink etc, My early 2015 has Amundsen Ii but without Smartlink.

Try spraying white lithium grease on to the anti-roll bar bushes, accessible from engine bay and from behind both front wheels. In my case this got rid of the squeaking.

I do not think so. Amazing that only a 1 or 2 psi drop when checked cold has the warning coming on. Seems like it is doing the job well that it is there to do. Being sensitive is better than a warning too late allowing you to drive about with tyres maybe getting too hot or just warning when there is obviously a puncture. Best sort out the tyre or tyre that loses pressure between setting the pressures and resetting the TPMS.

52 weeks!!!!!!! That’s shocking. I have also ordered a VRS, but end of November. Provisional build mid February….wonder if that’s hopeful thinking!? Did you manage to get your deposit back cancelling your order?

🙄 endless war diesel vs. petrol...

my last volvo was keyless entry,sold it after 4 years and never had to change batteries.

Part of the negative clamp, not battery, relax.

Yes, I have emailed the Dealer and got a phone call back to say they would chase it and let me know when they hear anything. So I emailed Skoda to ask how to get rid of this message, and when will I get my second key and was given the usual excuses semiconductor shortage etc etc and that it will be with me as soon as possible but they cannot say when.

I'll need to give the video a watch but the lads said it best, we'll all pop over.

The social introduction "I'm a van banker" has its problems, too ...

No, you need Fabia pistons, they have wrist pin 3mm higher. And various mod on crankshaft itself to fit it into the 13x block

Found this yesterday Its not "too" bad but obviously needs fixed. Seems the darkside emblems helping the crack hold together. Taking this on a rather long trip next week and I don't know if I can get it fixed it time so it'll have to hold on for a while longer.

i got my service kit from euro car parts, (bosch) air, fuel, oil and pollen filters and castrol edge oil, my service is due again, this time im ordering from car parts 4 less, its slightly cheaper,

They are, and really more supportive than the standard vrs ones.

Most of them come with a lighter/aux socket connector. My Halfords one is about as fast as a good manual foot pump, and has a built in inspection lamp.

I received a wee thing from Home Bargains as a gift from a relative when I bought the car. It does the job nicely and hides in the spare wheel well. It's just a little black tyre inflator, it probably has a brand on it but I can't remember what.

When I was in getting bits for the mk1 I saw this can of "stuff" and thought i'd pick it up for a laugh, was only a fiver. Obviously been sitting on the shelves for a while though. Directions say to spray it into the intake while the cars running, after the maf so as to not dirty it. I chose to spray it through the pipe that connects the ccv to the intake. Wasnt hard to use, spray half the can, let it run through as the car runs for a few minutes then spray the rest in. You're meant to have the car running at 2000-2500 rpm as you spray it in, didnt have anyone to help so I sprayed it then and then held the engine around that rpm. Plenty of smoke coming out once I ran this stuff through, kept the revs up until the smoke started to tail off then just let it idle for a while. Gave it a good hard run after. Unbelievably this can of ****e has made a difference. I've noticed the car feels a bit quicker than before, seems fuel economys up a bit too. If the engine doesnt fall out in the next while I think I can call this one a success.

Thanks for letting us know your unwanted predicament, I can imagine that the amount of stress it's causing you is unbelievable. All I can say is that I wish you all the best and hope it's resolved to your satisfaction soon.

Indeed. As far as the driver behind is concerned, they have no way of knowing (nor needing to know) why a car has suddenly braked hard. It could be debris or an animal on the road that they can't see. A driver should never drive so close to the car in front that they can't stop if the vehicle in front emergency braked. However, the safe driving method when being tailgated is to ease off and give more space in front, lessening the need for heavy braking as there's more space to react in. Having the car brake hard when it detects something that isn't there defeats that method. Of course this is all the point of the driver aids - working ACC and collision protect will maintain that safe distance and apply the brakes (and beep very loudly) far quicker than even the best driver. But only when it is working : it is vital to have confidence in it - not confidence that it will get you out of trouble, leading to complacency, but confidence that it won't get you into trouble in the first place! So I hope the radar etc gets fixed. I totally get being wary of a vehicle that's taking over control when it shouldn't, and I hope your dealer takes it seriously and confirms the fix.

I can understand you wanting to reject the car and having no confidence in the system even if it is supposedly repaired in case it happens again etc. What I am struggling with is that you wont drive the car and your partner refuses to get in it with the system switched off. I believe that you deserve a refund, if you bought the car for and/or paid extra for these systems you cannot be expected to forego the use of them, if you buy another car would you want these systems again or would you avoid them?