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Lovely start to the day!

Took this today for a local photography competition. The theme is doors.. I’m currently knocking up some for a project.

Yes of course you do, I can't think what I was thinking of, other than when I was previously putting about a car that I bought in 1999. Yes I see now, 1983 is nearer and 1978 is further away. I think the medication is wearing off again. Thank you, you can also see why I have to double check myself now.

This is the only pic I have left of my Rapid 136... It was epic fun, like driving a go-kart.

Yep T reg was 1978 -1979 on the old suffix series and then there was the prefix 1999 T & V reg I owned a 1977-1978 S reg MK2 Escort RS2000 for 18 years! Wish I never sold it!

Sorry my bad I'm talking out of my backside ! It was a 3 cylinder engine 1198cc 47KW 64HP AZQ I changed the cam chain and tensioner on in my son's Ibiza. We bought it as a none runner because it had a cam chain issue. The seat Arosa he had before that had the 4 cylinder 1.0 AUC which I thought was an under bored 1.4 AUD engine which were both called MPi and assume were pretty much the same as his had a 1.4 MPi air box on it when we bought it. Which again I've made an assumption that it's the same as the Fabia 1.4 ?

While I am feeling the luckiest person having my 1.5 dsg delivered in exactly 4 months - 16 weeks . Ordered 10 th of september , delivered 14 th of january . On the other hand I feel very angry for people ordered the car in march - may - june , july and their car still keeps changing production weeks. Cars with same specs like mine or less ( SEL Style with HUD and leather seats). I insist that you should complain directly to Skoda headquarters of your Country and Skoda headquarters in Czek. by writing to them every day complaining not so much about delays , because we all know most of the reasons , but for not keeping at all a priority , as they are obliged , on a roughly first come first served basis . If someone wants I can send documentation regarding my delivery. By the way did someone had his car delivered like me or sooner during the last year ? I am curious .

^ No worries. Here are the Fabia MK1 petrol engine codes...

As I used to post for Porsche owners, good for GTI owners too but we had none in the club. - My first two Estelle 2s I had for a year or less and didn't get to much more than 20K on either, third was over 50k though and I can't remember rattle even with standing at the back with the lid open, or at least not enough for me to take notice. Two were brand new the first was two months old (so 22 months warranty) with 6k on it staff use car from imports in Norfolk. The old friendly Skoda garage (pre-VW and later just as they took over) only wanted to changed the effected side but I insisted on both, never any upselling on service side then. I got the flagship of the fleet once as a courtesy car, an old Estelle Mk1 105 which they had as a trade-in and couldn't break, boy could it go, not fast or quick but great fun and very willing, felt like you could tour the world in one go, but boy was the steering heavy and stiff.

I can confirm that the 1.4 MPI 8v was merely a bored out 1.3 with some fancy emissions gadgetry to barely bring it up to spec.

Nope, the Fabia 1.4 mpi, 8 valve engine is notorious for timing chain rattle. There is no tensioner in the design so when the chain stretches it thrashes about. They are a duplex chain and I've never heard of one breaking, they just make an annoying rattle at idle. New ones only last about 20,000 miles before starting to rattle. It was the same when this engine was used in the old rear-engined Skodas as the design has always been the same.

Honestly the way Škoda is handling this situation is properly insulting quite a lot of their customers. Many of them will probably delete Škoda from their shopping lists and never order anything from them again! As @Ralliskarasaid, we understad the reasons that can cause delays, but there is 0 logic in not putting priorities to people that are waitting 9 months - 1 year+.

If money were no object I would create and employ a private security force to abduct and re-educate those who use "was" instead of "were" in the "if" clause/conditional use of the verb "To Be". They would also be tasked with euthanising anyone who writes "breaks" for "brakes" on car forums 😆

Finally forced a fault code out of it tonight on a 15 mile longer journey, so looks like it's cylinder 3, coil pack related P0353, same juddering with the brand new plugs, it's now booked in at different garage Friday but where it was originally tuned so they know the car anyway...

I was interested in what's the actual name of the product, so I can look it up. Thanks @TMB!

So the people that are still waiting that ordered in the first or second quarter 2021 and were surpassed by recent orders get the gift to wait +6 months probably = 🤮

Blimey, don't use graphite oil or grease then, it's already black when it's new! Engineers like me don't have 'feelings' about engines, however many owners do, they react by instinct rather than reason, snake oil salesmen love emotionally involved owners!

Things are moving Swiftly in some respects, and very slowly in others. It is brilliant to drive in standard form and I am looking forward to getting the wheels and coilovers fitted (they are sat on the living room floor at the moment), and the remap sorted. But I've come up against a problem... I couldn't resist the CTC Performance carbon airbox so the car will also be getting a full induction system and exhaust! The problem is that I can't get these fitted for a while, but I must say that enjoying it in standard form is not too much of a hardship. But it will be close to 180bhp when everything is fitted!!! No idea where the images went from my previous posts so here they are again. Expect a few more as things get fitted!

Fitted the mirror caps yesterday was too dark for pics so have a couple today, they don’t look too bad

Can you type it for him, he can't be arsed.

Good old hat boy thanks for posting that tmb job for tomorrow 👍

Bought 12 off today, 08/02/22, from RRG Skoda in Rochdale with an invoice price of £0.67 each giving a final price with the VAT of £9.65. I also tried VW Oldham (£0.80 each) and Pentagon Seat (£1.00 each) as I was looking for best delivery as car had popped a wheel cylinder so was off the road, and I decided that as these were original now (110K miles) was probably a good time for change. Makes the Ebay This part is brand NEW, directly from factory (Not Chinese replacement or Refurbished like other sellers have for same price), 100% suitable and Original prices where some are £7.00 to £9.33 each appear rediculas.

Guys, is there anyone here, who recently got the car with an order from last spring? This topic on the forum feels a little depressed these days... constant delays, more bad news. Could it be worse? What else can happen? 🤔 I ordered mine in April 2021, with a first approx delivery for October, and since then, and I have a build date for March 2022 – so IF they can make it on this schedule then, the total wait would be around 1 year. Reading all these news, I don't think that I could tolerate a message like "your build week just moved from March to October"

An Electric Smart. 2019 2017

I've mentioned before on here (in another topic?) that in Germany they use a lot of Lada Riva's and Suzuki Jimney's for winter service on side streets etc but this is a first! No idea what a Smart Fortwo will be like ploughing

Yep, seems about wright; the German site I quoted above says: - VW Golf - 5 months, +6 m for GTI/R... I'm assuming their computer is failing when they ask for Octavia delivery times... 😅 Could be... The German site says "from 6 months"... I was being subjective - I took the minimum value. But that's also the case for Octavia - also the minimum, which we now know for sure will not be applicable 🤬

Thank you for the advice everyone, just wanted to note for future reference if anyone stumbles on this thread because they're trying to do the same setup as me that it does work. Very pleased with it, however it does lead to a bit of a spaghetti junction of wires, esp since i used wagos for the Y connections which are good and easy but take up a good bit of room esp since I needed to use 5 to power the 2nd unit. @AnnoyingPentium's post in this thread is v helpful - better to do that over what I did, however from what I found such Skoda units are more expensive to get hold of (at least from my searches), so if you want to do it the cheap (and painful) then some VW units work, you just need a Facia too.

I have received a provisional delivery date of October 2022 for my VRS. Order was placed through Skoda dealer 10th August 2021. Looks like we're up to at least a fourteen month wait now then.

Requesting photographs of a kleenex stained with their engine oil and of their air filter etc is perverted and grooming, there will be a law against it soon! I'm sure some enterprising person will have created a monetised "Only Fans" type web page where you could get your fix 😆

Nobody should use flushing oil, it's a solution looking for a problem. There is no flow through hydraulic lifters, they have a small hole through which pressurised oil passes to pump up the lifter, once the lifter is pumped up it doesn't drain down unless the engine is stopped for an extended period and the two valve springs which are compressed gradually empty their respective lifters. This is what has happened, the OP should simply service the car because he hasn't bothered and the lifter will quieten with regular use. Like I said, nothing to worry about.

Pretty sure that'll be a EA888 Gen3 engine which has a timing chain rather than a cambelt. AFAIK, that should last the 'lifetime' of the engine so shouldn't need changing...

Really happy with ours too. Our first drive home from the dealer as had to go to the city to pick it up, it did 470 miles before the fuel light came on, and that's open road driving at 100kph over varying terrain. Headlights are better than my VRS Kodiaq's, seats are comfortable, and handles well with the DCC suspension etc. glass roof can get hot in summer though as the heat transfer is high. No real problems so far except Nav has an empty blanked out speed limit sign display. Will go in for software update next month as a year old so hopefully fixes it. My sisters one is a month newer and is fine.

The main weapons of choice around here are the Passat and the A4 Audi - The Lexus IS200 is the crossroad ring maker ! Honda Civic EK4 seems to have lost favour due to insurance cost ! If we look at the chav mobiles of old - Capri Astra GTE - Civic VTi - Escort XR3i and here the Corolla AE86 to name but a few These all had the stereotype attached - Could we call out any of these now ? The Fabia has generally left this undeserved stereotype behind - Good original and tidy ones are being minded - tatty altered ones like mine are slowly dying out. That stereotype never affected the Ibiza FR and Polo GTD - I'd love a 2ltr petrol Fabia mk1 if I wasn't doing the miles - I love the way mine drives but there's just summit about a proper size NA petrol engine.

🤣🤣 These any better??

Hi there, I have followed this thread as my Fabia had the same problem and I think I have found the issue.. I have a tow bar with a 13 pin socket into which I had an adaptor to 7 pin. On a whim I removed the adaptor and hey presto everything worked fine. I cleaned up the adaptor replaced it and still all OK.. We will see...........

So i was our earlier this morning, 4C outside, put AC in auto and heat to to 28C. I certainly noticed the revs increased to 1100rpm. I did have some heat from the vents even with the coolant temperature only just registering on the bottom of the gauge, so can only conclude it does work as suggested. Thanks all.

I'm one of those lucky people who ordered in February 2021 and is still waiting with essentially no info as well. Not sure what to do know to be honest. I'm the last person in the company I work for who's still waiting, all the others had it within 6 months who went with brands beside Skoda. Those who ordered Skoda, even the same spec as me, got them within 11 months. I don't want to cancel, I really like this car. And it's also crap with other brands, but atleast they seem to hit their (long) delivery times.

Fair do's. I'm looking at Golf GTi. Will download the brochure shortly.

Flushing the unseen internals of an engine is more a reflection of the inner state of the owners mind than the engine, cars don't suffer with OCD after all. Engine oil goes black because of carbon build up from combustion gases, not from dirt!

After 22 months and a mere 12,000 miles the car enjoyed it's first oil change service yesterday at the supplying dealer. Dropped the car off early and stressed that I needed it back by lunch time to make an afternoon appointment. Enjoyed Glasgow city centre for a few hours on a wet morning. 1215h call - your car's ready. Strolled in and signed 4 or 5 forms to say I'd enjoyed the experience. Pleasantly surprised by a bill for "only" £120. Very pleasantly surprised that they'd managed to replaced the badly worn rear discs and pads immediately to save me a return visit. Hope these are the real deal out and outlast my period of ownership, unlike last car needing 2 replacements. Very annoyed to hear that they were washing their hands regarding my rusty wiper spindle. "Normal wear and tear". My arse! An hour ago I received the Courtesy Call to see if I was a happy bunny. Yes and No said I. The man suggested I call Skoda if I want to pursue the rusty wiper spindle. Thanks. Their tick sheet gave an OK tick for everything, omitting to comment on the big lump out of my front bumper where a rock hit it. Must be blind.

Thank you I guess it’s just the norm for these cars then I can relax now and enjoy it rather than pick faults

that's not a bottom end issue if it is like the video. My MX5 has had exactly the same issue historically after being laid up over winter but a decent flush and fresh oil usually sorts it. The process is usually drain a bit, add the flushing chemical, run the engine, drain and refill with fresh decent oil.

I am still getting Edit action available, was a Freedom member, but then I am also a Grand Master (but not I note now or next going to be a Renegade Master).

@auditek - this is the coding i used....

danilob, the Seafoam fuel additive gets mixed reports and reviews and I am not sure why you would need it after using fuel cleaners before and having injector spray patterns perfect now btter whilst you are carrying out the other cleaning to put in two or three tankfuls of petrols with greater cleaning additive packages (like Shell V-Power as an example) . You did not mention air filter(s) engine (cabin) but given the other work I assume you have renewed them. I am not sure the Seafoam intake spray will achieve much but if you want to give it a go and I could well be wrong. For the engine oil if it is sludge'd up and dirty then you may want to consider using an engine flush before this oil change, then using the Castrol GTX Ultraclean until your next oil & filter change when you could consider a better oil. Just one example of an engine flush. - https://www.millersoils-shop.co.uk/engine-flush Note if you use a Haynes manual they usually have some errors and omissions in them, as with all information you get from any source including me!) cross check against one, two, three, other (reliable) sources. If you use an engine flush follow the instructions for that then for the oil change as well as the usual instructions - for all jobs allow loads more time that you think it will take, never be in a rush if this is the first time you’ve done an oil change on this car have the loan of an oil filter removing tool have the existing engine oil as warm as possible before draining to be able to get as much existing oil and muck out as possible remove the oil filler cap as this will allow the oil to drain better protect yourself from hot oil when draining leave oil to drain for as long as possible to get as much existing oil and muck out as possible towards the end of the drain pour some warm(ed) fresh oil in to act as a final flush and allow to fully drain * - make sure you have the oil filter seal on the old filter or off from the filter housing on the engine - * clean sump plug and drain hole and filter housing opening before fitting the filter smear clean oil around the seal of the oil filter and fit filter hand tight then as instructions – do not over tighten replace sump plug (and new washer?) steadily refill oil, start with about two thirds of the stated quantity of oil (as refills never take the dry fill quantity stated), leave to settle for a while, top up very slowly, better to need to add more than overfill, leave to settle before checking again, continue until it is near the maximum mark on the dipstick start the engine and check for leaks (after your first drive check for leaks again) then, if you want to or it is appropriate, top up to maximum as per instructions. I hope this also helps, good luck let us know how you get on.

The holes will be to let the air out when the seal is compressing as the door closes. Necessary or door will not close and seal correctly

Dod of bathroom sealant around the seal. Job's a good 'un. Maybe air out your motor too though. The stuff I used smelled bad.

You can buy the repair kits for the lock. Like this....

Lovely in the afternoon sunshine at Attenborough nature reserve today

Ha ha I no longer have the sdi as the gear box gave up for a second time so she was scraped, I never had any issues at all using oil I changed the diesel filter regularly and every now and then put a full tank of diesel in , maybe I was just lucky but it saved me a fortune