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I'm posting a before and after photo of a repair in case they are of any help to someone else. Backing out of a parking space in a multi-storey car park one of the columns moved a bit (come on folks, work with me here) and got intimate with my off side front wheel arch. Some deep scratches, flaking paint chips and a bit of metal distortion. Looking at it and based on repairs I've had done on other cars in the past I'm thinking there won't be any change out of £500 for that (on a good day) and I'm a bit precious about my NCD but although the car is now nearly 9 years old it's been reliable and other than that bodywork modification in pretty good nick internally and externally so I wanted to do something to put it right or at least tidy it up. Bit of a conundrum. Then I thought "SMART repair". I got an estimate of £120 from a local guy (trading under Scuffmaster) based on sending him a couple of pictures, he had the time to be able to come out and do it on the drive in a couple of days so I decided to give it a try - at least it would smarten it up and protect the metal from the elements until it was convenient to get a proper repair done - at the moment it wouldn't be convenient to be without the car for several days if it went into a body shop. When he arrived he took a proper look at the damage and, very fairly, warned me that he didn't expect to be able to get a perfect repair - it was pushing the limits for a SMART repair - but he thought "99%". The repair took just over an hour and I have to say I'm really pleased with the result. There is a slight ridge left on the edge of the arch where the metal was pushed up, which you can see in the "after" photo, but unless you know it's there most people wouldn't notice it. The colour match (Regency Green) is spot on. Hope this of some help to anyone in a similar situation in the future.

I'll just do mySkoda's. MkII Fabia Kombi sold in Hamburg in 2019. MkI Fabia 1.4 Comfort. Bought for £500 and sold back to previous owner (BossFox) for £500. I did do a lot of tidying up on it. MkI Fabia 1.9TDi Elegance. M favourite and wish I never sold it on. Did a lot of work on that.

i learned the basics of driving in my dads 1993 525i on the driveway at home in about 1997. i was 14/15... my first actual lesson was in a 1.6 civic instructors car. first insurance was on a 2000 1.0 saxo (awful in every way, even as a learner!) then did and passed my test in a 2003 1.1 Getz cdx - electric windows AND sunroof and a cd player! loved that car, was written off by my girlfriend now wifes insurance after she (deeply ironically) low speed crashed into the rear bash beam of an artic lorry full of laptops at a roundabout, on her way home from our rental to sit her driving test the following day... she had to do it in her mothers 07 corsa and failed - unsurprisingly as she had never driven that thing and everything was different - gearbox layout, control stalks backwards, light switches in different place... desperate 😞

My first car, and the car that got me into Skoda.

@MiniNinjaRob Fraid that some Octavia 4 owners are a twitchy lot. I would be if I had been sold a half baked pup with design and software faults galore, some or many of which seem unfixable. Try a different forum like the Superb 3, no sense of humour there either, but some very expensive modding in between the intense polishing.

Ninja your post !! When i ordered my car in December 2020 , i had done my research , i had looked at other brands. I compared lots of different parameters, such as 0-60 ( I wanted a spirited drive), wheels, tyres ,MPG , ride quality and what the reviews said and many more. I took the time to see if it was something i wanted , i visited the dealers ( VW , AUDI SEAT &SKODA) , i took a test drive of a few brands over various weekends. I DID ALL THE DUE DILLEGENCE I COULD HAVE DONE!!!. I couldn't have forecasted the software faults and wouldn't even have thought that to be a problem as under the sales of goods act all products should be fit for purpose and free from faults. If i had known i wouldn't have picked the car . Why would i want to have a poor experience with a new car or any new product. I have had 3 previous Skoda's and they performed faultlessly . I never complained about ICE or DCC or sun f-in roofs , I complained that the car calls the SOS services randomly , freezes the info screen, changes user profiled regularly, never remembers last setup, wants to change user profile every start up, brakes when nothing is there , tells you your miles from your sat nav position. The list goes on The CAR IS F-D and that is no fault of mine . I am not a beta tester for VW group software at my expense. No F-in dice were thrown , i expect my product to be free from faults as per my rights as a consumer.

Lovely late afternoon colour..........

^ Vanden Plas, very posh 😁

1972 Austin 1300 Van Den Plas - my first car: Gaz

Blue skies earlier (you wouldn't have believed 10 minutes earlier it was hailing!)

My second car, an Asta 1.3 GLS A reg. The picture is from halfway down the North Wales stage of the 1992 Lombard RAC Rally. It was the car I learnt to weld with (like all 80s cars...) I still have the Cibie Oscar+ in the loft. I passed my test in 1988 in a Citroën AX GT. I was a bit lighter then, but still 6'5". I didn't so much drive it as wear it. 😆 (no pictures of the first car, a V reg Escort mk2, £450 in 1988, rusted to mot failure in under a year...)

Toyota Starlet (rwd) school car, and an Opel Ascona 1.9 SR Berlina (Father's car for extra practice).

I had a white 1979 Chrysler Sunbeam 1.0, basic spec, with tan vinyl upholstery as a company car! But passed my test in a Mk1 Cortina (bench seat and column change) in August 1964.

You are so young, Ryan. You make me sick

I don't think 7zap covers newer models yet. Random example autoscan of an Octavia with a DGTE so it's certainly plausible: https://forums.ross-tech.com/index.php?threads/19983/

Vanden Plas 1300 so twin carb(?) very posh I only had an 1100 as my third (I think) car in 1978/79. - You didn't mention the Princess bit. 😄 Gax, yours must have been even more down on its heel than mine or you knew less about maintenance than me, which would have been difficult but I was more willing to give it a go then. Certainly you shouldn't have needed to top up the dashpot(s) oil unless they had wrong parts and the headlights should have been reasonable for the time, plus the built-in fog lights. Leather seats with front and rear seat armrests, wood fold down picnic tables on the back of the front seats with chrome inserts, plush carpeting and roof lining, rear courtesy lights, rear wood dash and door capping - made top level Fords and Vauxhalls seem low rent. If you were to see a good example now you'd be surprised how much room they have inside and the boot, many went over to Japan in the '80(?) and '90s. Large thin rimmed steering wheel, large chrome hub caps with large centre vp logo - lovely. This interior photo is a non-period off t' web - ETA: I've just noticed this is an auto too. Below is genuine period as those that were there then will easily tell, all these period "correct" programs with very shiny and forever clean cars. 🤣 The pre-added yellow spot/fog(?) was reversed into a few days before by a 'hit 'n' run' and the car was dark blue not green, old photos fade and change colour. 1966 'D' reg, Vanden Plas 1100 (single carb).

Rose tinted glasses: Nice leather & walnut interior. Hydrolastic suspension that was actually quite nice. Reality: 155x13 crossply tyres A Subframe that was more rust than metal Needing to correct the timing and top up the SU's dashpot every Saturday Headlights so powerful you could overtake them Brake bands slipping like hell Drum brakes Misfires directly proportionate to how hard it was raining An oil leak that would put the Amoco Cadiz to shame Trying to not turn the heater blower on coz of the smell that something might've died in the pipework Manual choke that either raced or choked it to death - nothing in between Gaz

Here’s Croatian Style package. Since I tested the new VW Polo and Fabia. I can say Fabia has poor cabin sound proof, there is just too much noise compared to Polo. Manual isn’t so precise and smooth, engine is bit noisier than in Polo. Center screen is not as sharp as in VW.

Quick update, It was just a loose pipe connection, I wasn't at the dealer for longer than 20 minutes, that includes chatting to reception who went to find service manager. Thank you guys for answering and putting my fears to rest, it all made sense when boost pipe was mentioned.

I just got bad news from my dealer (in Hungary). Today they were officially informed about the fire by the importer. According to him, at least around 16000 car will be involved in the additional delays. All of their 2021Q1/Q2 orders – witch were supposed to be manufactured within the next few weeks, including mine – were pushed back to Q4 2022! So with more than half a year… He said that, from now with all these 1+ year old orders in the backlist, the importer will start to negotiate specific built dates one by one with Skoda, so the situation can change a bit in the next few days/weeks…

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Who has the heating on max? Heating is expensive, I often see 7kW consumption when the car is cold and heating goes on max but I'd never run it flat out like that for 10 miles. When up to temp, the heating does not use very much to maintain temp. Battery heating on the MEB is expensive too, which tries to heat the battery to 13C from the get go, but driving at 70 should mean the battery doesn't need heating. So battery heating and passenger heating can result in 11kW of use before even moving the car and makes short journeys in the cold very inefficient. Even at that, we get around 2.2 mi/kwh on wifey's commute and this improves if we charge just before setting off and pre-heat from the mains. VW are promising to do something about the battery heating drain in winter with a software update in the spring. EDIT: I get better consumption figures than this at 60 and 70 with heating on and would get a lot more with heating off. I suspect there is other factors at play here affecting the range he is getting. (Remember Enyaq is more aerodynamic than ID.4, so he should do better)

There were comments on the 12V charging. In many cases the charging is not the issue here. If systems are woke up, with some consumption the battery can still be depleted overnight, no matter if it was charged or not. However to sum up the charging of the 12V. from VAGProf and other sources (repair shop, manual) Does not have traditional charger within the gas engine or starter motor, but the electric motor and gas motor work on the same clutch (pardon me here if I do not know the terms) The 12V battery is charged up to 80% whenever the high voltage battery is charged. And possibly rolling down the hill the rest 20% if HV battery is full. Car should force petrol engine to run if 12V is low and system works, this makes the HV charge and therefore 12V too is my guess. I did some initial measurements from the points mentioned in manual, earth and plus: 12.5V (I did not let the battery rest, might affect) -- some chart says this is over 80%, not sure if applies to this system and battery. 12.2V Opened doors 15,06V Plugged in my charger (Webasto Pure II), closed doors I hope this can give some info for someone. I will write more info if my system works or not after time. I will continue random measurements and measurements under conditions like 40km EV trip.

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The only thing that I've found that possibly could fit the bill is the new Focus ST.

Excellent service and good communication. I sent the head unit last Friday (04/02) by Parcelforce 48, it was delivered to my man in the West Midlands on Tuesday (08/02) and it has just been delivered back to me this morning (10/02) by UPS. Not fitted the unit yet but it has been fully tested prior to despatch and Satnav maps have been updated to 2022. The replacement touchscreen has 36 month warranty so all good for £250.00 including return P&P. Contact details: Anthony Smith (Ant) on 07979 723977 A good find methinks.

Ok, battery reading 12.9 after slow charge, cleared all VCDS errors, covered 50 miles, with 6 or so stops, got back home ran VCDS again , no logged problems, so verification I think, it has been a battery problem!

Be prepare for the plot twist

Hi guys, I have my octavia for six months now. When I drove if from dealer, I've "accidentally" enabled CarPlay over WiFi, and everything was working perfectly. Yesterday, I had to factory reset my iPhone X, and reinstall everything, Once, I came to my car and tried to connect to CarPlay over WiFi, to my surprise there was so many errors. Tried all sort of things, but didn't wanted to try to connect via cable. After consulting few websites/YouTube videos, I WAS ABLE to connect without any issues. This is what I had to do: Siri must be enabled !!! (iPhone Settings > Siri & Search > Enable Skoda Settings > Devices > Your Phone > Delete iPhone > Settings > Bluetooth > Delete Skoda Bluetooth connection iPhone > Settings > Wifi > Skoda Wifi Connection (if any) > Forget iPhone > Settings > Confirm that Wifi is On (don't connect to Skoda) iPhone > Settings > Bluetooth > Connect to Skoda Bluetooth (verify that Skoda Bluetooth is set to visible) Skoda > CarPlay And voila, Skoda started the CarPlay connection wizard and I'm happy again Hope it helps.

Mine was the Admundsen unit with the two vertical SD card slots either side. Remove 15A fuse (blue) at position 8 (check handbook) within the engine compartment. The tricky bit is removing the plastic trim surround carefully without damage - I used a thin plastic Tesco Club Card keyring tag to get behind it and prise it gently away on both sides at the top and then gently pull it away at the top first. There ar 2 Torx head screws (T10 I think) either side to remove and then gently pull the unit out as far as possible to get at the various cable connectors at the rear. Remove the large square multi connector to the left first (passenger side) at the rear of the unit - there is a black plastic release lever mechanism on the bottom edge of the square multi connector that needs to be pulled up. Over on the right (drivers side) at the rear of the unit there are three connectors to remove - a white double connector, a blue connector and a yellow connector. Each of these has a small plastic lock slider that needs pulling upwards to enable the connector to be pulled free. The head unit can then be gently removed. I put the large square connector in a small plastic bag with a tie and the three other connectors in a separate small plastic bag with a tie to prevent any issues when the fuse is replaced. You could replace plastic trim surround to keep it tidy and put the four Torx head screws in a safe place. You will then need to replace the 15 amp fuse (blue) at position 8 in the engine compartment or the car will not start without it. Let me know if you need any further clarification.

I had been looking for one for ages. Then I slapped the part number in for one and it was coming from a VW Amarok allegedly. P/N matched, so just worked from there.

Ordered some footwell lights from Rocket wires, Really nice kit and the looms are really nice quality. Received them on Saturday, but was out all day on call.... so braved the weather and between rain showers on Sunday to install them for the front anyway. Included was an E-mailed set of instructions which was really easy to follow. Fresh out the packet! Took out the glovebox for easier access, and helped to route to the drivers side. Took the BCM Plug out and wired in as guided by the guide, I've bought his kits before and always liked the integration with the OEM equipment makes it a pleasure to add this OEM+ stuff. Took about 30 mins to do the fronts. Left them there as I needed to go out, then coded them in with VCDS when I got back. The other evening I had some time after work so got on with getting the drivers rear wired in. Managed to get the seat lifted enough so I could route the cable along with the other cables that come up from the floor for the seat. and loosely tie wrapped to the main loom to allow free movement if & when the seat moves. All finished! He does door bin illumination, and the illuminated door warnings which may be my next purchase....

Hi D.Fylaktos! I read all the thread, hopefully I didn't miss anything. I don't let my car warming up at idle, just a minute of normal driving and the revs are exactly 850 (with a slightly fluctuation of about + - 30 rpm). I had a similar problem with my Felicia. I have never had fuel consumption problem as my Felicia, in a highway going 110 km/h did an amazing 650 Km before the low fuel warning light turned on. Anyway, Recently I have noticed that my cold starts are not like they used to be. I mean, I used to have 1100 rpm, then within a minute of normal driving they fell down to 850. Now I have like 980 rpm on cold starts (in this period, it's about -2°C). Everything is the same, I didn't change anything. The only thing I did was resetting the adaptation of the throttle body with motordiag simos manager and VAG-COM after a good cleaning, as I had the famous sticking idle problem. To me it's not a problem, the car warms up fine, temperature is fine and runs ok (despite spark knocks when hot as described in my thread)

I remember something happened to the engine?

Bit premature with the gloating, it's not been confirmed that the error code is the fault, and related, it's like how I sometimes am with reality. And you can have more than one problem related or not to the issue in hand and/or as yet undiscovered or unrecognised issues. The German car manufacturers often seem to go out of their way to make things over-complicated to show how clever they think they are which often leads to complex issues and solutions in and out of Warranty and these engines are more complex than most. Let's hope cleaning the coil or connector sorts the issue. 😁

On any vehicle they reduce spray on fast roads. I'm sure they keep the vehicle a bit cleaner.

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Might be a sticker on the cambelt top cover, or on V5c registration document the Engine Number section should have a few letters ahead of the numeric part which are the code. Example of a cambelt cover sticker with engine code ringed:

Earlier i had information that week 6 is going to be the build week. At the moment its "on production". Lets see how it proceeds.

I think you can be really proud of your achievements, brilliant! Regular over consumption of alcohol was a large part of the social scene of my pre-marital years in the UK I'm afraid. It took my now brother-in-law's absolutely fantastic stag night about 35 years ago to finally prompt me to say "never again" to anymore benders. I'm certainly not teatotal and will drink a beer, wine, or spirit as befits the occasion, but just the one drink. These days that is literally all it takes for me to feel the effects.

I found some replacement LED bulbs on Amazon for my combi tailgate that worked fine. 10 pack currently on sale for £20.36. No errors or issues & Canbus friendly. Still going strong 2 years on. LED bulbs

Gpf is in the front section of exhaust where it's hot. . For it to work properly. It won't make any noise, it doesn't have any pumps or anything, it's just a chemical reaction/filtration happening inside it with the exhaust gasses. If the noise is towards the rear and you've just had fuel pump work, I would suspect something Is still wrong.

I disagree entirely. The interiors are simple and straightforward - but they are anything but bland (and I'm quite happy with physical buttons, tyvm). Of course, there is a lot of variation across models as well as variants, but I'm more than happy with the look of the interior, and it's a a lot less bland than a lot of cars out there. As for the driving, my 1.5 150PS Kodiaq wasn't overly exciting... but it wasn't as bad as some cars I've driven. My 2.0 245PS Kodiaq is whatever I want it to be - boring and practical or fun and exciting. I'll admit that it's nowhere near my old 1 series for being a driving machine, but comparing an SUV with a small hatchback is, well, pointless - and having tested SUVs from Volvo, BMW and Audi, I'd save the money and take my Kodiaq any day of the week.

That's gutting. We could do with a resident 3D printer/CAD geek on this forum for making these things. Not me sadly, I build computers - anything after that ain't my problem.

If new plugs and coils don't solve it, check the wiring to the coils.

No idea beyond that you're approaching this modification right.

Fit new top mounts and bearings. The old ones will be smashed flat. Car "may" be a lot quieter on tyre noise from doing that. Though all four corners need doing for best results.

Having done a few over the years on my 3 Fabias, I would also recommend at least buying the top bearings {as opposed to the top mounts) which you may find fall apart when the springs are removed from strut - this stops the replacement process. Top mount on left, actual bearing on right - a top mount will not necessarily come with a bearing. Also ensure you fit the spring the correct way up. I used a ring spanner on the strut top nut and found that it is easier to slacken off when strut on car, car on wheels - just undoing a 1/4 turn.

i have ordered estate but everything is the same,please let us know how the drive is and fault free.fingers crossed for you it is.many thanks

In case it's any help to anyone in the future, the cause of this problem turned out to be a faulty relay (the 645 one in the engine bay fuse box), which was discombobulating the ECM. Did a Carista scan, searched the fault code in this forum and found that a very helpful user called Bob3 had experienced and sorted the very same problem.