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So, before attempting to fix the issue this morning I revisited my page from last year when I had the same problem. This morning, I vented the filler cap, then locked and unlocked the car and this time the lift pump activated for much longer - and the car started on 2nd attempt ! *expletive deleted*

The electrical socket on the factory fitted towbar is quite clever, there may not be power there if there doesn't need to be. An electrical socket tester (depending on which one they used) is not always indicative of a fault. Have you tried plugging an actual trailer or trailer lighting board into it and seeing if it works? The car will only provide power if it thinks it needs to.

Buying a brand new electric car is the biggest thing you can do for the planet?

Yes its a mk2 1.4 petrol

There is some odd-ball late reg ones. The car could be an example of this. Otherwise, it's in the wrong bit. We'll just have to wait for the OP to clarify, or else it is complete speculation.

It would be a waste to take them to the tip but they don't seem to make good money when trying to sell them. I would probably put them on ebay with a low starting price.

Firstly check the plastic brake servo pipe as they are known to split causing a vacuum leak.

Yes you can..... its the same floor pan, and all the same options ... only diff I'm aware off is the towbar hitch storage moved to the foam box at the side of the wheel rather than under the wheel where the AD-blu tank now sits. A spare in a 150BHP Yeti with 4WD is totally possible and was a factory and after-market option.

Having removed the front wing on mine to panelbeat it I recognise the part, I'm pretty sure that it is number 37 on the diagram and not handed, the wing has to be removed to fit a new one as the bulk of the part you see illustrated (badly) is underneath and supports the wing. You can see the remains of it under the wing where it has been torn off.

Does it take that long to detach a trailer to charge that people stop touring with them because of it? I’d be more worried about getting around and finding chargers where you need them than chargers suited for caravans.

Agree with all of the above - we knew that the mpg figures on our 1.4TSI would never be anywhere near the previous Octavia TDi but went with it partly on the basis that it was a great drive and because diesel was being pilloried and was potentially going to be subject to some heavy penalties and restrictions etc. Do we regret it - no - although I'm still slightly on the fence over whether a good petrol is a better drive than a good diesel (I do like that big slug of torque). Am I upset that the figures seem low compared to manufacturer's ones - not in the slightest as I'm well aware that the manufacturers figures are not worth the paper they are written on and only useful for comparison purposes under very specific test conditions.

1.5 petrol, 2.0 diesel, 30mpg or 40mpg, it's all largely irrelevant. The cost of putting fuel in the car and therefore the cost to run a petrol or diesel car is expensive, and is only going to get more expensive. If when financing or outright purchasing a brand new car and the affordability of running it becomes a concern, then it isn't fuel economy that's the issue, it is often the price of the car purchased. Spend less on buying the car and put the rest into running it. Most of the fuel economy concerns come from owners who have determined affordability by the monthly payment alone, and forget a modern, flat fronted, 1.5 ton, small engined, petrol SUV on short runs in the winter months is never going to achieve more than 25mpg. I have a 1.4 TSI (after several VAG diesels) and love it. The 25% increase in fuel costs are worth it for me. The car was cheaper to purchase, is more reliable, is more refined, is near silent, warms up faster and (in my opinion) nicer to drive. It also does a sterling job of towing our 1.5 ton caravan. Diesel is dead for me. Petrol isn't far off either. My other car is a 3.5 V6 two-ton petrol people carrier, imported from Japan. Probably my last chance to own a proper engine. It is currently averaging 16mpg and requires the use of super unleaded. But, I bought it with my eyes wide open. Expensive to run, but cheap to buy. The manufacturers quoted fuel economy doesn't help either. I appreciate they're created for a fair comparison between different manufacturers, but they are often a long way off reality, and trip-up a lot of potential purchasers.

All sorted! The hose that runs through the top left bellows had split resulting in a water leak when operating the rear wash (nothing seen in boot) and breaking of two cores next to it as it became a point of flexing. Water had also contaminated the plugs further down the loom resulting in bad connections / corrosion on the wiring to the tailgate. A good auto electrician by me found this out and replaced the broken wires, replaced the section of washer tube (so no connectors inside the bellows) and sorted out the plugs / sockets. All working again and major boot issues narrowly avoided. On reflection the only external tell-tale of this happening is that the rear washer jet sort of drained down after use, dribbling on after use. I initially put this down to old age (from personal experience 😀) but it was a sign that the pipe was leaking and air was getting in after use. So if you see similar be warned to get it sorted sooner than later to minimise damage.

Most media companies are dependent on the advertising revenue from car manufacturers, so they have to be "careful" in their criticism of cars on test. CAR magazine used to be (no longer a subscriber so cannot comment on current situation) more concerned about accurate writing and have lost advertising contracts because of it.

It looks like the new sensor has cured the problem. After leaving the car overnight it started first time today, better than it ever has done to be honest. I reckon the sensor must have been on its way out for a while as the difference in how it started and ran today was very noticeable. It's amazing how such a simple component can affect the running of a car to the point where it won't start.

Autohold Adaption MY16 Apologies if this has been posted before, I've searched the thread and haven't found anything. A bit of background first. Bought the 65 L&K estate last June, and have always had a problem with the Autohold and auto handbrake release causing a 'surge' when setting off, forward or reverse. This was due in part to the amount of revs needed to release. (6 speed DSG) It was acceptable (still not good) when everything up to temp, but a nightmare when cold, to the extent I drove 90% of the time with Autohold turned off. When pulling forward or reversing out of the drive it would try and stall, unless excessive revs used, which would then mean accelerating then jumping on brakes immediately. Needless to say Autohold turned off getting in car and manually released electronic handbrake EVERY time. Spoke to Skoda dealer Oswestry who suggested possible Mechatronics unit!! Took it to an indy specialist who diagnosed faulty 'Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor', replaced but no change. 2nd Skoda dealer who serviced car 2 days ago (full dealer service history) asked to test drive when cold which they did and said everything ok. Since I got the car this has really been getting under my skin. I may be the only 1 with this problem, but just in case there is somebody else pulling there hair out I thought I'd post the following. I take no credit for finding this, that honour goes to TIGSEL on the VW Vortex forum and works on DSG and manual gearboxes, VW and Skoda. 1- ABS Brakes 2 - Adaptions 3 - IDE04871- Dynamic Starting Assist 4 - Early There are 3 levels of Autohold release, Early, Normal and Late. Normal is the default, it needs setting to Early. I have to say I was sceptical it would make much difference, but WOW, it's like night and day! Car parked overnight, did the adaption, touched accelerator and glided forward, same in reverse. Test drove for 2 hours and absolutely perfect. Was worried there may be a bit of 'creep' when fully warm, but no, tried uphill and downhill all good, happy chap

Sounds like classic case of the turbo vanes sticking, a fault code readout would confirm it, but search for Mr Muscle turbo cleaning loads of posts about it and youtube guides on how to do it.

Best camping transport? Rusty certainly got better weather!

Sorry to disagree, but you don't need to heel and toe to get more control out of a manual gearbox. There's all sorts of ways in which a manual gearbox is better even without heeling and toeing. For example, when turning into a side road you can precisely time when you lift the clutch to apply drive to the wheels, so you can change gear just before you turn and then accelerate away exactly when you want to. An automatic gearbox does not know that you are turning a sharp corner so there is no ability to control this. In theory you should be able to manually drop down a gear using the paddles but still there is no ability to time when drive is applied. It is just not as smooth. Another example is when accelerating away from stationary (maybe to join a roundabout). With a manual car you select the gear then lift the clutch when you want to go. It is instantaneous. With a DSG it takes its time before going, and the degree of acceleration is very hard to anticipate because you have to push the accelerator hard enough to get it going (no clutch to control this) but if you push just a little bit too hard the gearbox drops a gear and all hell breaks loose! There is just not the subtlety of control you get with a manual gearbox. One big issue is that you never really know exactly which gear the car is in if you are in Drive as there is no indication. Let's say there is a corner that I know is best taken in 3 and I am approaching it in Drive. I press the left hand paddle to drop a gear but the gearbox was in 6. It drops down to 5 which I only know by looking at the display. If I then try to drop to 3 by pressing the LH paddle twice it is a down-shift within the odd gearbox and therefore takes at least a second to happen, which is quite a long time and impossible to anticipate the timing when you are going round a corner. In a manual gearbox I know the car is in 6 and then I can block-shift to 3, applying the drive exactly when I want to by lifting the clutch. I do this all the time when driving but it is so difficult to do well with a DSG. I think a big issue when people compare a DSG (or any automatic gearbox) to a manual is that they compare how long it takes to change gear. In my view this is just not the point. The reality is that with a manual gearbox you are totally and absolutely in control of the point at which drive is applied to the wheels by control of the clutch. With a DSG it is a very moveable feast. Furthermore with a manual gearbox you know exactly which gear the car is in at all times because you put it into that gear, and you have the gearstick to remind you as well. With an automatic gearbox you either do not know which gear it is in, or have to look at the display to know (if it is in Manual or Sport mode). Finally in a similar vein when you are accelerating you never know exactly when the gearbox will change gear just because you have pressed the accelerator that little bit harder. Some of the time this does not matter, but when you want to drive with finesse it makes it very hard to do so. I could go on and on about the shortcomings for me of an automatic gearbox, but suffice it to say that I just do not find it possible to control the car as well with one when compared to a manual gearbox. The only time it is somewhat better is in traffic when you can just sit there and only have to press the accelerator. But for me that is not enough of an advantage to overcome the shortcomings.

Hi, A couple of months ago, it became difficult to start the engine on my Super MkIII. I had to press harder on the ignition switch and/or press several times before the engine started. I tried to clean the contacts with a contact cleaner spray, without unmouting the switch; It did work better, but not for long. So, I decided to have a go at it, and it's a simple fix really. First, you need to take off the bottom cover of the steering column. There is one Torx screw underneath the steering column. Once removed, you can slide the top part towards the steering wheel, and lift it up: this part is just clipped in place. Rotate the steering wheel when you have lifted the top cover: two more Torx screws appear on each side. Unscrew them and the bottom cover will fall. Unplug the two connectors, one for the antenna, one for the switch. To get the switch out, insert two small screwdrivers from the inside of the bottom cover, in the slots on each side of the switch. It will pop off. Once you have extracted the switch, you need to open it: it is quite straight forward, 4 tabs to lift (delicately) on the top, no springs inside so nothing will jump away. This switch is build like the gaming controllers: four conductive silicone pads make contact on a copper plate. I found the silicon pads and the copper plate to be quite dirty. I cleaned them with a soft pad soaked in contact cleaner, and, after drying, applied a very light coat of conductive grease on each side. It works like a charm now, I can start the engine with the slightest touch from the tip of my pinky. Of course, the other solution is to buy a new switch, but I doubt the construction of the switch has changed and the switch is quite expensive (for what it is). But I enclose a pic of the part's references in case you need it.

It'll definitely leave the lights on. Having sat behind another superb tonight, they're also blinding, so I'll make more of an effort in future to use the handbrake

I reckon there is a market for them, if they’re in good nic??

You do get to know a cars economy if you are paying for it, know the cost and are always brimming it. I know the consumption of every keeper i have ever ran for more than just a few months for every route i drive and every weather condition. (I know how someone else driving my cars can get very different economy, or poor economy if i am putting the fuel in.) I went to fill up my seldom used 16 year old Shogun auto. It does 26 mpg from every tankful pretty much any weather any time and sometimes even when towing. So as long as at the speed limit on the same roads and routes i know exactly the cost of a trip. I did not know that diesel had been put in by somebody else since i last put in and i wanted to fill it with Winter Spec Diesel before parking up for a while. It only took 2 litres @ 150.7 pence a litres and that was brimming it and i noticed the mileometer had been zeroed 10 miles back. My 11 year old 1.6 N/A petrol auto does 42 miles to the gallon as long as it is doing the same 6 miles each way regardless of the weather and it does 48 miles to the gallon when i take it the 20 miles to fill up with Tesco Momentum 99 Super Unleaded.

I've also found this when I thought I had a problem; caravan lights were not working, I used a multimeter to try and check and there was no power - thought I had a problem but took it to a towbar fitter and he plugged in his test kit (full light box ext) and everything worked. It's just 'smart' tow bar electrics. Turned out that the caravan plug had corroded and that needed replacing.

@GgsumoIt maybe did 40 mpg around town, but in winter you never got 40 miles from 4.546 litres of diesel if you were doing 8 x 5 miles trips with cold starts.

I found this entertaining. Followed by this.

Have a look at this there might be someone near you ?

No the buckle was broken as well

That looks a lot better than it did & should keep the water out for a long while yet.

I can confirm that the 20mm grommets from Screwfix fit well in the whole next to the cabin filter, if anybody wants one I've got 99 left over😂. I used gasket maker to help seal it up and did the same for the filter box. Then I chucked in a new filter and jobs a good un. I took the wiper mechanism out (not as easy as I'd like but I worked it out) and removed the cover on the driver's side to out gasket maker around the the edge of that cover too. Final I put some gasket maker around the bonnet release cable grommet Now it's all sealed up I can think about washing the outside and see if the paint will polish up.

@BigMark1969Usually it is a Test Light Board that is plugged in to test if the plug is working, sometimes even a full length trailer light board.

silver1011 I didn’t no about that and I don’t think the Skoda dealer I took it to yesterday new that, I just asked them to check it because I want to get a bike carrier and I wanted to make sure it worked. They said they tried 2 different leads just in case one was faulty so not sure what leads they tried but if it wasn’t a lighting board that may well be why they couldn’t understand it not working and no fault showing. I will have to see if I can find someone who may have one for me to try. 👍🏻

Usually, when something major changes in the behavior of the car, it's when infotainment SW changes. I guess this is why we are still talking about infotainment SW version number.

I've posted that several times on here, but people continue to post the infotainment software version number - seemingly without understanding/caring that their car has maybe 30+ different processor controlled modules all with their own software versions that are not reported in the infotainment system. You can take a horse to water but you cannot make it drink 😠

7 speed twin dry clutch DSG,s are great. They best have the dq200 DSG reliable by now as they have 12 years of putting them in Fabias and several experiences of having to sort out manufacturing mistakes.

Hello to all. Just bought our first ever Skoda, a Yeti L&K, don't even get it till Tuesday. Am already a member of a similar motorhome forum, am sure this will be as helpful/informative Ian

Yep I reckon. It’s 30000 miles less localised pollution. Sure there is some at the power station but that it’s partially offset by renewables. As a company car driver it’s one more ICE that will become available in three years making them more accessible. I ordered just a couple of days ago and already have an estimated delivery date for May-June. Not bad in the middle of a chip shortage and the likes of the mini plant closing temporarily. But I guess that’s what happens when you are manufacturing at source (China).

Leasing a new car is the best thing you can do for the Financial Establishments & the Motor Industry it does little good for the planet! If nobody is getting new then nobody car get used ones that are 2 or 3 years old.

as above - turbo vanes. what engine code is in the car? ALH/ASZ etc?

I have not that air filter box thermostat since 2002, has been removed and i can not find it in my closed of spare parts. I bought and installed a new at 2022 because i want to solve the problem with my ''second'' cold starts. Turning back the time it was my mistake that i removed that item but as already said i had a ''bad advisor''. ALL the ols cold starts were out in the fresh air and i was traveling 1-2 times per week in a boulevard and sometimes in the highway. I didn't gave any special attention of how many minutes the rpm were at 1100 because i was in a hurry to return home after work. For 2+ years things are different, cold starts in parking garage-hard traffic-not high rpm-mainly 1st and 2nd gear etc, all of these didn't existed in my life so far. The car was clogged and when the TC-6 arrived finally i had a tool to work, i have live indication of what's happening and that socked me. Step by step, making corrections i am lowering the fuel consumption, from the worst of 14,7 ltr/ 100 Km now i am at 10,7 (i have seen 10,6) ltr/ 100 Km and i am optimistic that i will manege to make it better.

Loom swap today old one out swapped the steering column over too to save any coding issues. Added some closed cell foam under the carpet. New one in just dash and all panels to put back in. Stop start module and beats amp to mount under seats, abs sensors to connect up. Aerial to swap and headlining to refit. I’ve got next week off so no more progress till then

Not sure if this is relevant - wasn't there a spate of reports on here in the last couple of years of a faulty batch of Moll batteries that were replaced under warranty?

So, almost 5 months into ownership, and I'm still really liking the Superb. Went down the road of lowering, with Eibach Pro-Kit, a few weeks back, and that pushed me to either buy some spacers as a temporary solution, or finally make my mind up on some wheels. Read as much as I could on sizing and offsets, but still needed to take an educated guess/leap of faith. Straying from my Japanese wheel roots, I ended up going with Judd Model One, 20x9.5 et40, in Gloss Gunmetal (would have done Brushed Titanium if they were in stock). Tyres are Michelin PS4S, 255/35r20 in size. Yes, I know that's a little larger than stock OD, but it was a deliberate choice to maintain some sidewall. No rubbing so far, thankfully. Outside pics are with the stock wheels/tyres loaded in the back, hence why it sits a little lower in those pics. Will try and get some better pics sometime over the next week or so.

Unlikely there will be an actual DVSA safety critical recall with the DVLA giving VW UK / Skoda all registered keepers contact details. VW Group will tell them as usual. They will do a Voluntary Recall which is just a Recall action as usual with even Approved Used Skoda for sale at Dealerships being missed. So just a service campaign. There are vloggers / journalist running Skoda's that have commented on the software including a member from briskoda. But Haymarket media group so Autocar / What Car, or Heycar / honest John are not going to say much. Not with their contracts with VW on advertising or Heycars ownership by VW group and Daimler.

Yep. I'd never even considered them before they turned up on the car. The ability to essentially leave full beam on all the time is really handy.

After trying several times to contact Skoda Australia "Customer Care", I gave up when none of my calls was ever returned, even after two weeks. I decided to do my own research and find out the names of some key management at Skoda Australia. After sending an email to the National Sales Manager, I received a reply the very next day. At least that was a start. He told me that my car was "possibly due for building next week". I will wait with baited breath for new updates and let you know when my vehicle finally arrives.

What car are you talking about? ( The Volvo? ) A Fabia III with the right equipment will display the map on the infotainment system and the sound from the cars speakers. Thanks, AG Falco

Another day, another snowy Skippy pic. 👍

Hello I did about 156km and two hours driving with no single issue. Plus 40 minutes of driving AT NIGHT with al lights on (the first day the pulley got broken) plus one day witout using the car. I stop to sleep because was getting dark and i didn't wanted to turn on the lights, the owner of the small hotel we found in the road had a charger, so we he charged our battery overnight and then today we complete 97kms more until home. I am sure that if the battery would have been fully charged at the beginning, i would have complete 250km without any issue. (The advice for disconnecting the steering was really helpful, in fact it helped me to diagnose a issue i had i thought it was the alternator regulator, while the steering is working the lights fluctuates) Despite all that, it was an amazing road trip with friends. This next weekend we are going camping to a reserve which is about 8,000ft above the sea. Extra spare tires, compressor, and traction ramps in the check list.