Leaderboard

So yesterday evening my Fabia developed a misfire with no dash tell-tale. Would switch off or be incredibly lumpy at idle, would be hesitant and then misfire upon hard acceleration below 2,000rpm and was down on power overall. I had two coil packs kicking about ready to go in at the next service, but that came early. So, taking advantage of the gorgeous weather, I went out and sorted the damned car out. I had already changed coil pack two back when it severely misfired last December, leaving me to change one and three. Which I did. Pack three seemed to have some undisclosed substance on it and was pretty rough looking, so I'm assuming that's the one that has died. All of these old ones were Lucas branded, so I'm assuming they're OEM? Anyway, the new ones are Delphi's from TMS in Ayr (£20 a pop) so I'm pleased. Now, just to be sure the car was running okay, I took it a run up to one of my favourite haunts, Loch Doon. Or rather, the entrance to Loch Doon, where there's a nice car park. On the way up I decided to push it pretty hard to make sure it was pulling well, and can confirm it is. It's very torquey now unlike before and doesn't bog down when setting off from a standstill. Overall, I'm quite pleased.

She’s in *Gear selector changed *slave cylinder swapped and bled *abs module swapped *Ecu mounted under wing as oem *Forge Heat tape added to bulkhead where turbo is as there’s none on citigo and did under intake too. going to button up the interior tomorrow just seats left to fit, fuel pump to swap and fit fuel pump Ecu

Some more pics From this weekend... Over 3hrs on the bonnet alone.... But well worth it... Opinions welcome!

Yes, that's what it's showing you when it displays no number, it's disengaged gears and is coasting.

If it's the same bloody size as the rest of the tyres on the car what is the point of this thread? Seriously.

Just my humble opinion on the Canton in my Kodiaq. It has a couple of quirks that can be a PITA sometimes but otherwise, in comparison to the standard system it's night and day. I adjust the very simple EQ depending on what I listen to but to get the best of the system you really need to be turning the bass way down and putting the Subwoofer volume on around 6/7. It also makes a huge difference changing the "Focus" not the balance/fader to "Front" instead of "All" and turn all bluetooth/loudness etc to off. This makes the system come alive and being that you won't be listening to music loud with kids in the last row, no one else will be missing out anyway. The connection method makes a difference too. I'm lucky enough to have a separate work and personal mobile phone, one android the other iPhone. Both phones by bluetooth are acceptable but the iPhone quality is marginally better although doesn't go as loud. If you really want it sounding it's best the source needs to be good. The best so far is either Amazon Music HD or Tidal through Android Auto, because then the in car DSP is decoding the sound and not your mobile device. Spotify works ok, but at almost full volume can get a little sharp or harsh at the top of the range. No such issues using Tidal. Just my two pennies. Sounds is a very subjective topic but if I had the option again I would add Canton in a heartbeat (it's the ONLY option I picked other than adaptive cruise). Saves messing with paying silly money to have someone take your car apart to fit a professional system, especially if it's on lease or PCP....

Just noticed the improvised earth connection on the strut tower. You did scrape away paint down to bare steel under that crimp terminal before screwing that down, right? That'll be making a poor connection otherwise, as that screw is going into a threaded insert in the rubber top-mount, not some nice conductive material.

No, you're right, it isn't technically an emulsion, it just looks like one. Luckily this is still a self-help group for fixing cars and best advice is still to get that nine year old brake fluid changed and find out why the level was so low.

Who cares how old the tyre is, it's been sitting in the boot in the pitch black its entire life, it'll be like new.

As you can see, the last bodge (I hope) is finally sorted, wires wrapped together, wrong colour twisted together... Messy New loom, new rad, new sensors, new parking loom, new plumbing for washer jets... New bumper, new front end practically... But now. Looking like we're fixed!

Just a heads up. If anyone is in the market for an upgrade on their rear anti roll bar. Darkside have genuine VW Golf Clubsport ones for £84, including the bushes and brackets. They have a limited number at that price and yes I did make a purchase 👍

Quite a journey, but finally getting round to tastefully modifying the Rapid. I have a 2014 1.2 TSI (105PS). List of mods and current status: ✔ Front & Rear Parking Sensors ✔ Door Sills ✔ Custom Fit Leather Seat Covers ✔ Aftermarket Armrest - pics in this post HERE ✔ Columbus Head Unit With DAB+ / Nav / HDD - guide with pics HERE ✔ Stubby Aerial - pics in this post HERE ✔ Eibach Lowering Springs - pics in this post HERE ✔ LED Interior Bulb Upgrade - pics in this post HERE ✔ Exterior Bulb Upgrade - pics in this post HERE ✔ Black Grill surround - pics in this post HERE Black Skoda logos on the front and back and remove lettering ✔ Aftermarket 18" Alloy Wheels (GMP Angel) Painted Brake Calipers (Skoda Green) Amp / Speakers / Subwoofer Maxton Splitter Maxton Side Skirts (?) Gloss Black Roof Wrap (?) Items Available For Sale OEM Springs Fog Lights & Surrounds 17" Ray Alloy Wheels & Tyres Pics to follow.

Morning . I know the differences between the two and that subjective, and been done to death a bit ( apologies ). I'm on the verge of plumping for a new Superb 280 estate. been talking myself in and out of it for ages. lead times now getting a bit better, getting a good deal, and will get a good trade in on current VRS. Planning on black, DCC, towbar prep, possibly winter pack and possibly sunroof. I know that won't be as agile as a VRS, but would definitely look like a big VRS . However, taking into account that an L&K already has a good bit of extra kit ( of which DCC is my must have ), a comparable L&K is coming in about £20 a month cheaper! arrggghh! I keep thinking I'm young ( 49 and 11 mths! ) , and that the L&K looks ( and might feel ? ) a bit more like an old man's car. Possibly in black and maybe with 19inch wheels would look more "sporty" ( I know that's not the point of an L&K ) . Or maybe on certain 18 inch wheels still good . Question is, whether 280 or not, has anyone been in the same position, looking at Sportline, then decided to go for an L&K, and glad they did ? I'm a terrible one for "what if" !! thanks

Ordered mid October and arrived today ( could have had it a week ago but I put it back to get the new reg ) very impressive build quality- first Skoda since 2007. engine is very strong - needs loosening up no doubt info system is very good - although it is a second or so slow in responding to inputs extras fitted - metallic paint, dual climate, keyless start, wireless apple car play it will have eibach springs on it as soon as I can - because it sits too high !

I went for the L&K but it is not a straightforward decision. A Sportline also makes a strong case for itself and is probably better in some aspects, so I think it comes down to weighing up the pros and cons according to your own personal taste. I like the more understated look and extra chrome touches of the L&K, as well as the bare metal look of the alloys (18s for me for a more comfortable ride), rather than the half-painted 19s on a lot of the Sportlines that I see. But although the L&K seats are fine I would love some more side support and I actually prefer the look of the quilted seats and flat-bottomed steering wheel of the Sportline, which I would say has the nicer interior. Personally I would not be influenced too much by the extra toys in an L&K. Park assist is a great party trick but I find it fiddly to use and on my relatively narrow street it actually refuses to engage because it thinks the kerb on the other side of the road is too close and will impede the driver's side front wheel as you reverse into the space (but I can do it manually no problem). And lane assist can be a pain - try to swerve to avoid a pot hole and it will fight to steer you straight back into it! I don't have a reversing camera in mine (I guess they weren't standard fit in 2017) but the parking sensors are great so I don't feel I am missing out particularly. Do they still offer a Sportline Plus? I thought that was essentially a Sportline with more kit, so could be the way to go for you...?

Always hated it, lifting off the accelerator to ease up if traffic speed was changing and not showing down at all 🤣 would never use it on the motorway!

Note, this stuff changes all the time, however...

Higher revs mean more time spent in 2 cylinder mode in a 1.5tsi, so could/likely be more economical, depending on right foot.

Dealer teasing me

Bolero system can have Android Auto where you can get satnav from your phone on the infotainment screen. Thanks, AG Falco

Thanks, Lee!

Find someone with VCDS or similar tool. Go to 09 Central Electronics / Security Access: 31347 / Adaptations. You can change these settings. Stufe 1-3-5 is for driver's seat level 1-2-3. Stufe 2-4-6 is for the passenger's seat level 1-2-3 IDE06089-ENG115738-Seat heater level current consumption allocation-Sitzheizung Stufe 1 obere Schaltschwelle,33.00 °C,30 IDE06089-ENG115737-Seat heater level current consumption allocation-Sitzheizung Stufe 1 untere Schaltschwelle,32.00 °C,30 IDE06089-ENG115740-Seat heater level current consumption allocation-Sitzheizung Stufe 2 obere Schaltschwelle,33.00 °C,30 IDE06089-ENG115739-Seat heater level current consumption allocation-Sitzheizung Stufe 2 untere Schaltschwelle,32.00 °C,30 IDE06089-ENG115742-Seat heater level current consumption allocation-Sitzheizung Stufe 3 obere Schaltschwelle,37.50 °C,30 IDE06089-ENG115741-Seat heater level current consumption allocation-Sitzheizung Stufe 3 untere Schaltschwelle,36.50 °C,30 IDE06089-ENG115744-Seat heater level current consumption allocation-Sitzheizung Stufe 4 obere Schaltschwelle,37.50 °C,30 IDE06089-ENG115743-Seat heater level current consumption allocation-Sitzheizung Stufe 4 untere Schaltschwelle,36.50 °C,30 IDE06089-ENG115746-Seat heater level current consumption allocation-Sitzheizung Stufe 5 obere Schaltschwelle,41.00 °C,30 IDE06089-ENG115745-Seat heater level current consumption allocation-Sitzheizung Stufe 5 untere Schaltschwelle,40.00 °C,30 IDE06089-ENG115748-Seat heater level current consumption allocation-Sitzheizung Stufe 6 obere Schaltschwelle,41.00 °C,30 IDE06089-ENG115747-Seat heater level current consumption allocation-Sitzheizung Stufe 6 untere Schaltschwelle,40.00 °C,30 These are my settings (also with alcantara seats) for driver/passanger level 1: channel IDE06089-ENG115738-Seat heater level current consumption allocation-Sitzheizung Stufe 1 obere Schaltschwelle adapted from 33.00 °C to 21.00 °C channel IDE06089-ENG115737-Seat heater level current consumption allocation-Sitzheizung Stufe 1 untere Schaltschwelle adapted from 32.00 °C to 20.00 °C channel IDE06089-ENG115740-Seat heater level current consumption allocation-Sitzheizung Stufe 2 obere Schaltschwelle adapted from 33.00 °C to 21.00 °C channel IDE06089-ENG115739-Seat heater level current consumption allocation-Sitzheizung Stufe 2 untere Schaltschwelle adapted from 32.00 °C to 20.00 °C After some experimenting I finally set these values for 'always on'. I didn't bother changing level 2 & 3 because I never use them. The seat heats up quickly enough (for me) even with these settings. And I can leave it on for the whole winter. The seat gets just as 'hot' as you can warm it up with your body (with no heating). You can also consider switching on the 'memory function" so you don't need to activate the seat heating manually on every start: Module 08 / Adaptations channel IDE01067-Retention of driver's seat heater level adapted from active for 10 minutes to active

More potential set backs for those waiting.... https://europe.autonews.com/automakers/skoda-cuts-output-enyaq-electric-suv-due-ukraine-crisis

Be cautious if you cancel. I cancelled my Kodiaq Sportline in December after waiting 6 months with no build date knowing it could be a very long wait. I purchased via my NHS Scheme who advised I could have my deposit returned if I sent written confirmation (via e-mail). I did as requested and this was sent to the dealership over 200 miles away. Less than an hour later, the dealership by some miracle had just been given a build date of week 1 2022. I suspect this was done to avoid giving back my deposit. I'm aware Skoda was closed in week 1 as part of the extended closure, but the dealer is not budging. Our 2nd car is an electric Golf and saving us a silly amount of money. I've therefore gone with a new Electric Kia which appears to have a shorter lead time and much better communication from the dealer. I wish those waiting very good luck and hope you have a better experience than I had.

Windows CE is terrible !!..............

My Scala Monte Carlo arrived today. With options fitted ordered mid October via Carwow. came last week. hang in there - they told me today it’s getting better although Scalas are harder to get than some other models.

No date-code I can make out there, and no sign of a VAG part number either which there would be if OEM.

I don't think so, but if there are any date-codes decipherable on them that would give a good clue. Keep the removed ones as spares, because at least one of them is probably fine. OEM are usually Eldor, I think. Was the first photo before you touched anything? Cyl 1 pack appears to be sat a few mm high of fully on?

One of the weaknesses of no central information on order progress is it does leave it up to dealers. You have no way of knowing whether an unscrupulous dealer has simply had your car and given it to another customer. Not saying that’s happened but it does expose the weakness of no online order tracking and no central response either. Its hard to believe in this day and age that Skoda don’t have online build tracking. I get they are cheaper than BMW or whatever but they aren’t that cheap that you’d imagine such a basic tool isn’t available for a customer.

I've made that suggestion to the dealership and asked them to raise it with the factory to get confirmation that there isn't an issue with the order system. Will see what happens.

Rieger!!

FWIW I have the basic lane assist, not the dynamic one. It's not too intrusive but I a bit pointless, the upgraded version with traffic jam assist might be better. It sounds like you're heading towards a sportline with a few boxes ticked, which is a good shout

Thanks both, I’ve got plenty of sound advice to be getting on with!

I cleaned the anti shudder valve on mine a while ago, off the top of my head it was around 110k miles. Mine wasn't bad at all aside from the mass of gunk in the first photo. Pretty sure its never been cleaned before either. I used pink stuff paste to clean it, worked a treat. I like to think I felt a difference, lets be honest it was most likely a placebo effect. No harm in cleaning it out though. If OP does do this, I can suggest another thing he could do while he has it apart. That is use a dremel to put a notch onto the piece that feeds egr gasses into the intake stream, he'll have to take it off to get to the ASV anyway. This allows you to mount the metal piece facing up to the intake, letting egr gasses flow straight into the intake manifold as opposed to going away from the intake and then being forced up. Not explaining it as well as I hoped, but its easy to do and free. Only real gain is that it should keep the intake a little cleaner (supposedly) May as well mention you can buy restrictor plates to put onto the egr pipe that won't cause the car to throw codes. Less egr gasses will help keep the intake cleaner again. They can be got for a few euro online.

I've had that problem twice. Back in November '21 the Shop (the icon) disappered after the error "Unable to start app". (This was with software version 1806.) I tried to restore factory settings but that did not help and I ended up not being able to register myself as the main user as the Shop app is missing and it is done through it. After that I got a new MIB3 unit for my car as instructed by the Skoda and I was finally able to make my account as the main user once again as I used to. Eventually.. January '22 came and I got hit by the same error once again.. (software version 1810) no more Shop app (or any other app which is available through Shop.. like Traffication or Calendar). Skoda requested me to record a video of the issue (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pZWTiaD88Ho). The "Unable to start app" can be seen at 5:00 on video. Since then I have visited the workshop couple of times and they do not have a clue about the root cause of the issue and neither does Skoda. It is probably a software bug but getting it fixed is an another thing.

What size tyre is on the rest of the wheels? It looks like you have a 205 45 16 tyre on a steel wheel as your spare. Is this the same size as the rest of your tyres? If it is then it's the same pressure as the rest. Tyre was made in late 2007. Thanks, AG Falco

the question your asking is difficult for any one who went for an l&k over a sportline to answer, because they dont have a sportline to compare it too 😀 reading your post , it looks like it's the sporty look you want, if your spending the kind of money needed to get into a superb, what's an extra £20 if your hearts set on a sportline, best to get a sportline, or that's exactly what you'll be saying to yourself afterwards 'what if'

Two weeks off the swimming and feel as if I'm back at square one. I've also got a sore arm from having my booster jag on Saturday so was just taking it easy. Managed a nice 18 for now. Just time to work my way back again.

It's a space saver, inflation pressure is moulded into the sidewall.

A few from the museum of flight. Current events certainly make you look at the exhibits in a different light.

Quite a noisy photo, but I like it all the same.

Think I need to visit local Skoda dealer and at least sit in an Octavia, Superb and Kodiaq for starters.

Sorted, it wasn't too hard either, the engine bracket is the worst part. Fingers crossed now there's no more EML and hopefully it runs a little better

I'd like to take credit as I said, but alas no. I absolutely love the car, it was just this 1 thing that has been niggling me for so long. It seems to be more a VW issue than Skoda, have found no other instances on Skoda forums but a few different threads on VW forums, why, who knows. Maybe some have just learnt to live with it. If I can save just 1 person going with Skodas recommendation of replacing the Mechatronic unit at £ 1,500 + then job done. Car is perfect now 😁

So, almost 5 months into ownership, and I'm still really liking the Superb. Went down the road of lowering, with Eibach Pro-Kit, a few weeks back, and that pushed me to either buy some spacers as a temporary solution, or finally make my mind up on some wheels. Read as much as I could on sizing and offsets, but still needed to take an educated guess/leap of faith. Straying from my Japanese wheel roots, I ended up going with Judd Model One, 20x9.5 et40, in Gloss Gunmetal (would have done Brushed Titanium if they were in stock). Tyres are Michelin PS4S, 255/35r20 in size. Yes, I know that's a little larger than stock OD, but it was a deliberate choice to maintain some sidewall. No rubbing so far, thankfully. Outside pics are with the stock wheels/tyres loaded in the back, hence why it sits a little lower in those pics. Will try and get some better pics sometime over the next week or so.

At some point soon I’m going to have to give in and pay the $3 per litre for some 98. Also, added an RS2 to the collection

Hi All, Been suffering with poor headlights recently, even with upgraded Halogens and a set of LEDs, read somewhere on here that the projector lens may look clean but is in fact quite dirty. Anyway, method I used to clean them which has worked a treat is to remove the headlight assembly, remove the bulb and blast the back of the lens with electrical contact cleaner followed by a 1" paint brush shoved down the hole so all the bristles spread out, this can then be spun around to clean the whole lens. Quick blow out with the compressor and jobs a gooden. Hope this is of use to someone... Cheers Dan

You sure about that? i can wash it normally if in forward gear, and using the rear window wash function.. It cannot tell if you are in reverse or not, as its not smart, its pure mechanichs, you could wash it at 60miles per hour it would not care at all!

3 and 4 are not possibile, 3 due to limitations of can-bus, the wheel goes to sleep once power is off, 4 not possibile as the rear camera washer jet is connected to the same pump as the rear window, so you cant have fluid running to it unless the rear window is being washed.. That being said, you could rig your own washer pump, tap into the lines before rear window washer pump, and have a switch in the cabin to wash.. but OEM its not possibile..

New wheels on my mk3 last week.Japan Racing JR25 8.5 x 19 et40 with 225/35/19 tyres. Fit well, no spacers yet. Might try 12mm spacers on the back. Needs to be lowered at some point too.