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Just heard from my dealer. My car has a VIN number, is in production and also waiting for missing parts (whatever those could be...). Ordered in August 21. My first info sicne almost 9 months of waiting.

Frustrating day today.....didn't have a CT scan this morning that was meant to determine if I could have my valve replaced by going up through my groin (called a TAVI), which has a 2-day recovery time vs up to 12 weeks for open heart surgery (OHS), but no update as to why. Spoke to several nurses who could not tell me anything. grr! Decided it was a nice sunny day so would take myself for a coffee and some "fresh air" 😛 Went to get dressed then realised that the cleaner has taken my T-shirt thinking it was a pillow case Eventually I had a visit from a consultant, an hour after the planned meeting where they were gonna discuss my case, and was told that the aortic valve currently in my heart is too small to be replaced by the only type of valve they can use for a TAVI procedure 😞 So, as it stand at this minute my chest is gonna be sawn open again, most likely this coming Friday. Far from what I wanted to hear, but I have been reassured that due to my (usual) level of fitness (6 months ago I would be running rings around 18 year olds on a football pitch despite being 41 ) my body will be able to take another OHS, but I will need this new valve replaced in the next 20 years so they plan to replace the Aortic valve with my Pulmonary Valve as this will enable them to do the TAVI procedure when it needs to be replaced again. Gonna be a very loooong operation, which scare the $h!t out of me if I am honest.

Hi guys ! Just a short thread after a drive in Germany and on the Autobahn. I was really impressed and even surprised by my RS230. I knew it's a fantastic car, but I did not have the chance to drive it fast. Distance of 130km at an average of 118km/h (including lots of 80-100-130km/h limitations), quite some time spent between 160 and 190km/h, several times above 200 and a peak at 225km/h (on GPS), and there was still power left ! The car behaved flawlessly and beautifully, WHAT A CAR !

Yes. TPMS works using the wheel speed sensors. Each wheel has a speed sensor that sends a signal back to a computer. This compares the signals from all the sensors and it looks out for quick changes between the wheels. If one/some of the wheels start travelling at a different speed compared to the other wheel/wheels it can set of the TPMS. EG:- Or:- Tyre/tyres getting hotter than the rest of the tyres. Or:- One tyre deflating because of a puncture. Thanks, AG Falco

Different DSG,s in petrol or diesels or wet or dry clutch can behave differently. All try to protect themselves though. There are ones you can move to M1 and floor them and the DSG will go through the gears on the red line and go quicker than in S. There are ones that in manual if you go to a low gear too low it ignores you. Some will actually maybe go down the gears and near put you through the windscreen.

I use Asy 5 and never had an issue with grip, well apart from when it snows. They are wearing well as still have over 4mm left and done nearly 14,000 miles on them so far. I think they came with around 7mm of tread new (from memory)

You're absolutely right, but I don't understand why he translates everything I write, I hope it comes out in English now. However, in the description of the video I include text in English. Thanks for your interest. Regards,

Hi roottoot Thanks for the info. I think it's a case of how long is a piece of string at the moment isn't it. No one including the dealers seem to have a clue what is going on, which is infuriating when you get no info and told to sit and wait for X amount of time! Seriously considering whether to keep the order or not at the moment.

And from Google translate for those who may have some trouble... I finally put the rear camera on my new Fabia, it's very easy and I made a video. Sorry but the video is only in Spanish, but if you have any questions I try to help. Thank you. ____________________________ Hope this helps.

FTFY. HTH. HAND. (ps. it takes a lot more than that to wind me up, don't feel bad about your failure)

That's good advice. There's a policeman who lives up the street that is built like Mike Tyson. Maybe his address would be ideal as an alternative.

I think, in this case, it was a poor choice of words. We've all done it. I think the point that @SurreyJohn was trying to make, is that the dealer should have sent the paperwork over to you in plenty of time - especially if the original offer had expired. It has been my experience (and others from the sound of it) that you get the paperwork a week or so in advance of collecting the car... but basically as soon as a handover date has been agreed because that's the date they need to put on the paperwork. It's not clear from your posts whether this was the case or not, so directing your (understandable) frustration at VWFS for their weekend opening hours may be misplaced if the dealer was lax in their efforts at getting the paperwork sorted out in the first place. Also - what is to be approved? Is it a new application because the old one expired (or because of the discrepancy)? The finance gets approved when you place the order, and the signing of the documents before picking the car up is just formally entering into the finance agreement. As far as I'm aware, there's nothing for VWFS to approve under normal circumstances. In any case, it will all be worth it when you get in, smell that new car smell, and drive away. Be thankful that you are in a better position than a lot of people and your new car has turned up - a few extra days of waiting won't kill you.

Well, people need to remember that it is a maximum speed limit, not a minimum limit or even a must drive at this speed limit. They also need to not be in such a rush all the time, and be considerate to other drivers. But then there's more chance of seeing your flying blue pigs, because people are arses.

Yes. Longer answer: I think it does this to protect against prolonged limiter bouncing and also to keep the engine turning at a sensible minimum speed.

Wonder how many eggs she has? 00026-1.mp4

Same for both according to that ETKA page.

Sunny side... Intrigued as to your next question!

Hi Guys :) i have a strange issue sometimes when for example i stopped at red light noticed the rev is stuck arround 1100-1200rpm but if i pull the pedal up with my feet rev jump back to850 , also sometimes noticed car isnt pull smooth but if i pull back the pedal again pulls again normal for a while what the actual f**k ? PEDAL or position sensor or or .... what ? Thank You car is. 1.9. BLT

Thanks very much

No longer produced for UK It is now Potenza S001, S007, or new Potenza sport

Yes I needed one recently, bought Bosch A331H via Amazon - £7, fits perfectly on vRS estate. Much longer than 13" and it would foul the rear spoiler. https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0068M0SAG?ref_=cm_sw_r_cp_ud_dp_H2KTZ2V28J0GMQWDVS2S

Welcome to the forums. I had the same question as you, and eventually worked out that deflectors ARE needed for the standard full LEDs when driving in continental Europe. Bought the Eurolights ones and they work very well, diagram 177 if I remember correctly. The headlights shape is very curved so it seems odd when positioning them, kneel down directly in front of each headlight to get the alignment correct. A few hundred Km of night driving, visibility was good and no one flashed their lights at me so presumably they’re in an OK position.

Thanks, I quite like the colour, so does my mother in law apparently xD

Has anyone tried the lower engine mount insert from 034Motorsport? Is it any better than the Powerflex PU one? https://www.awesomegti.com/034-motorsport/034motorsport-billet-aluminium-transmission-mount-insert-09-13/#product-reviews I've just fitted the 704R (yes, it is definitely the red one!) and share the same experience as @radders567 and others here - the vibrations transmitted into the cabin are unacceptable for road use, especially in reverse. I think I could live with it for a while, but my other half, who drives the car a fair bit, would not. I'm also not sure how long the car will stay in one piece for! Appreciate any feedback.

hi @roottoot Many thanks for confirming that.

https://skoda.7zap.com/en/cz/octavia/oct/2010-663/8/863-863020/#23 Item 23. 1K0863993 The correct suffix for your vehicle depends on the model year.

Well, my immediate thought is that you've pinched one or both front brake pipes.

I too have a approved used skoda nightmare.i bought a 2016 octavia vrs diesel with 22k on the clock from Rainworth skoda Mansfield.since then I've had no problems with the car apart from the gear selector sensor warning every now and then which apparently is a common fault.since the purchase I have put 8ooo miles on the car and the 30k service warning is now showing,so I popped it down to my local skoda garage to fit it in.I thought it'd be a good idea to do the full inspection service as it still has the APPROVED SKODA WARRANTY (not worth a carrot)and if they found any problems this could be sorted with the warranty.The lovely man at Bolton skoda checked on the computer for the cars service history and to my amazement informed me although the car is now 6 years old that the cam belt hadn't been changed (5years)nor the dsg (4years) hadn't been done,bear in mind I bought the car from a skoda main agent you would've thought all this would've been done to skodas recommendations but NO.so for the price of my service will now cost £1400.since then I tried to speak to Rainworth and they quite rudely told me that this work was all recommendations and if I don't like it speak to skoda uk after 2 weeks the out come was from skoda uk that basically if I'd have mentioned it at purchase they would have come up with a deal(talk about a kick up the arse)so now it's going to cost me 1400 quid.The moral of the story be very careful when buying from a skoda main agent in fact you'd probably better buying a car from Arthur Daley

I’m collecting on Friday 🤗 can’t wait. Hoping the sun is shining!

People sadly require Social Media and forums to vent on or just to ask questions and get answers because the Main Dealership & Customer Services and the actual manufacturers are not giving the information required. Lots of people end up on forums but many many more will not get to a forum to learn of issues, or to say how free of issues their vehicle is and how good a service they receive & Dealers. Many might not join a forum or post on it and just try to get information reading what others have posted giving their experiences or opinions. The Internet has caught out VW Group over incompetence and part of their failing is Software and the Motoring Journals seem to be far to easy on VW Group over this.

Maybe just leave it off rather than replace? That way it's already fixed.

Living in Norfolk, it’s seems the vast majority are doing the same. In major urban areas I can understand others apparent frustration but in the country, folks don’t seem to care. Must be something to do with the slower pace of life.

Is that the stoneguard come away completely and made its way there? Item 6? floating caliper brake; brake caliper housing; bra... - Fabia(FAB) [EUROPA 2006 year] (7zap.com)

What did you have on before? You'll struggle to find many objective recommendations for tyres better than the PS4 (assuming you're running 18" wheels as you've not mentioned PS4S) as they led the way in virtually every objective test they've been tested in, only really being bested relatively recently just prior to their replacement with the PS5. Your experience is very much at odds with my own experience of them too, albeit on my Mk2 - whilst they might not be the most feelsome tyres out there (and subjective feel is where they are often criticised in tests), for outright grip they're immense and the car could carry frankly ridiculous speed through corners for such a lump of a car once I swapped the FK510s for PS4. The only thing i'd personally be interested in running outside of the PS4/PS5 would be the latest Goodyear Eagle F1 Assymetric - I think they've just released the 6 - not sure if it's available in the correct size yet so if not, the 5.

VW group advice varies by country. UK Skoda is pushing owners to change belts at 5 years. Australian dealers seem to be recommending 7 years. I might change my low mileage 2014 model's belt this year since I have decided to keep it. Service intervals vary as well. Australian dealers insist on 1 year/15000 km services. UK can be the same or may opt for longer variable depending on use intervals. Spark plugs about 60k km but when mine were changed they showed no wear.

I felt the same way looking at the price of, for example, a low KMs Golf R 7.5 one year ago. Maybe, if those are the previous generation Skodas, they are worth paying for because they do not some with the unreliable and unergonomic infotainment system.

That sounds like a reasonable price. It cost me less than £30 to buy everything I needed to replace all wiring in the door hinge areas for all 4 doors though I've only done the 2 front doors. Though granted it takes longer replacing the wires than buying a new door connector repair kit at around £31 each. I've only checked one of rear doors which also has cracked insulation. As all my kids have their own cars I rarely have rear passengers these days so I'll get round to it eventually when I feel like it.

There is 2 plugs that do this trim panels lighting, one for left and one for right. If you take the glovebox out completely you will be able to see if they’re both plugged in. Swap the plugs over and see if the fault changes to drivers side. You’ve then eliminated the fault on the car or the strip and we can work from there.

Sounds excessive My loom was about £120ish plus labour, not sure how much that was as mechanic was doing a service, rear hub and abs sensor all together.

There are surely more mk2 Fabias driving around with broken wiring than fully intact wiring in those door bellows. Proper cockup of a design those 'straight across' bellows.

Imo, and I'm not saying it's not a possible with some thought, but I would doubt they would even consider pricing this work. Dealers are not interested in upgrades/retrofits as they make their money on servicing and faults which this sort of work does not fall under. As @PetrolDave has stated, there is a lot of work involved in this "mod". Unfortunately cars with halogen headlamps have cannot be improved much other than fitting brighter bulbs. I've used combinations of Phillips extremes and osram nightbreakers and they are whiter and do improve them buts it's not a "night and day" change. Regards.

June is when we expect to see the next one unless MartiniB finds it early.... that's available on direct links to servers of the respective brands, whilst Skoda, VW and Seat take a time to wrap their web page around it. So nothing unusual, all is still good. Wouldn't expect to see anything till atleast mid May but definitely mid June.

I got round to pulling the rubber grommet off the chassis plug today, and found that the thick red wire has broken, but as far as I could tell it was the only one that had severed through and through (see the first photo). I am guessing that prior to me removing the grommet it was only touching sometimes and hence causing the intermittent fault. At this point none of the functions to the door worked, I surmise the thick red wire is probably a common 12v +ve feed. I thought it was probably worth having a go at a fix today. I managed to strip back just enough of the red insulation to allow a self-soldering joint to slide over both ends of the break, inserted a thermal shield (i.e. piece of cardboard) between the red wire and the rest of the bundle to prevent collateral damage, and very carefully melted the solder with a 175w iron. The joint had its own shrink wrap, so that should give some mechanical protection (see second photo): The break had been close to the door end of the wire, so I couldn’t get the soldering iron close to that end. Now I seem to have full functionality of the door: central locking, mirrors, windows and speakers, so this appears to be a good quick win for the time being. The wires are quite brittle, so this probably isn’t the end of the story. I have ordered the repair patch, so I think I’ll still take the door apart and fit it next weekend. I’ll report again when I do that job. Many thanks for all the advice chaps, Alan

Such a regular topic on this forum. Try some more reading.

Thing is, if you just replace a battery at the first sign of any electrical trouble, you have to pay for the battery, and possibly coding the control systems to it. Then you might find a few weeks later that there is a charging system fault, a parasitic current drain, or another fault such as the one you mentioned Dave, none of which will have been improved at all by the battery swap. So you'll end up spending more than necessary, and potentially even immediately degrading the new battery, depending on the nature of the problem.

This rather depressing collection of parts depicts my next plan for the Octavia! With the quest for more power on hold for the moment (the K300 safely tucked away) And with track time booked at Blyton in July I want to refresh and upgrade the suspension where possible. Currently I have replaced the shock absorbers with KW coilovers, fitted a Whiteline rear anti-roll bar, renewed the rear beam axle bushes, and lower dog bone mount with powerflex items. I also fitted powerflex top mount bushes when the KW's went in and a front strut brace from an Audi TT. The front end needs more love however and being based on the MK4 platform I'm going to undertake the very popular suspension upgrade robbing all the best bits from the TT, S3, R32, LCR family. As shown in the photos I will be fitting:- *Audi TT cast lower arms *Audi TT subframe *Audi TT hubs *Audi TT quick rack These will all get cleaned up and painted, polybushed as required, new ball joints, new bearings etc along with a Whiteline front anti-roll bar to compliment the rear. The main reason for fitting the Audi TT bits are as follows... The subframe has extra bracing for rigidity, the cast arms are a better design and coupled with the hubs sit much flatter when the car is lowered. The ball joints on these arms also allow camber adjustment. It's well known that mk4 golf gti's etc eat driveshafts when lowered and that's because of the angle that the standard pressed arms introudce. Along with other negative traits like 'wheel hop' The standard steering rack on the octavia has a 3.7 lock to lock fitting the TT item will drop that number to 2.5 which is a huge difference! These are all well-documented straight swap upgrades with very welcome welcome improvements to handling. I will keep you updated as things progress! 👍🏻

And to finish this off... came back via some A-roads to avoid the M6 rush hour car park... consumption was definitely lower, but a lot more fun was had in sport mode! After yesterday, the vRS is beginning to make a lot more sense to me as an overall package. It is both a very comfortable long-distance cruiser, and capable of having some fun (without getting too out of control). I'd class it as a GT SUV rather than a performance one. It's definitely not a town car, but unfortunately that's where I'm going to end up using it most... downside of working from home (no commute) and so doing most of my driving as a taxi driver for the kids or to go to Tesco and back 😞.

I use the coasting mode, a bit of forword planing as you drive and you can see a difference to the economy on the eco screen. A touch of the brake or throttle and you have full control.

Please, do explain…calendar changed your life?

Never put my car on the list. 2012 Monte Carlo 1.6 tdi 105hp. Bought with 89,000 miles on the clock and is now sitting at just over 93,500 miles. Will have it a year come February first. As far as I can make out it came with no options on it, no third headrest,grey seats etc. Has been modified slightly, its got: -vRS intake pipe -Deflapped airbox -Air filter sock removed -Dieselgate flow transformer removed -Heat reflective tape on airbox and intake pipe. -De-Restricted turbo damper -New backbox -Whiteline Rear Sway Bar -vRS grille striping -Team Heko wind deflectors (not seen on car, older photo) -Generic motor factor Mud Flaps. Not really modified too much but its definately a nicer car to drive than standard. Sounds much nicer too, without being chavvy in the slightest. I only really plan on remapping it but otherwise i'll just be renewing bushes and what not. It's been reliable in all my time owning it so I dont see a need to potentially mess that up. As Of December 2021: -Darkside Developments downpipe -UlterSport Backbox -Supersport Coilovers (lowered only about 20mm) -PSBushings Wishbone bushes -Powerflex Dogbone mount -312mm Front Brakes -Remap to 140HP -Rear Strut Brace -Pair of Spotlamps Hidden behind the grille -Currently on a set of 16" Spyders for Winter duty. Will be going back to the 17s with some fresh rubber for the summer. Quite a few changes made over the year, most of them due to parts wearing out and so needing replaced anyways. The exhaust was rotten and I happened upon a smoking deal for a nice darkside downpipe and a backbox. Had to get it mapped after that of course. The brakes came about as I got a deal on them and was needing to replace the 288mm stuff anyway. Then the shocks gave out so they needed replaced anyways, and again I got a deal on some coilovers that would work well so I would be daft not to. Then I noticed the boot creaking like mad so I put in a brace and so on and so on. I'll probably put a cr170 turbo on as well as a bigger intercooler funds allowing come summertime. Edit As of August 2022: -Poly ARB D Bushes (20mm) -Rear Axle Swapped for a disc one -New axle stripped and refreshed with polybushes -256mm vented rears put on -Intercooler fitted -Boot sound deadened -Superpro Steering Rack Bush -Soon to have caster increase bushes and new Track rods.