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Fitting wireless CarPlay I've found the setup in the Superb for hooking my phone up to Smart Link (CarPlay) less than perfect. With a normal USB cable connected i have to fiddle with the phone and plug behind the gear stick and then there's cables sticking out and the cover doesn't really close. It also makes the wireless charging pad i have in the car redundant. I saw that there were some dongle based wireless CarPlay options out there so I hunted down one i though might neatly fit into the space. The idea was to be able to simply place my phone into the wireless charging space, close the lid on the console and drive away. I found a few dongles that come in a small black square case that have an angular pattern on the front. There's a few brands out there that appear to use the same unit. I chose "Pairr" but there is also "Totree" and others. This is not intended to be an endorsement for these units and they are not perfect by any stretch but they appeared to fit the space nicely. This is a generic photo of the space... My intention was to remove the lighter plug, get a low profile USB cable and place the dongle over the flat face of the sockets on the right. The USB cable was easy enough to find on Ali Express (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005001952745125.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.0.0.21ef1802lllfSP) The dongle (https://www.pairr.co/) arrived and was as small as i'd hoped. However one of the issues with it is that the USB-C plug hole is deeply recessed so I really needed a USB cable with a straight plug rather than a right angle plug. I forced the bugger in and hoped for the best. I placed some stick on velcro patches to the back of the dongle and placed it onto the surface of the plugs as planned. Pretty pleased with the result. The dongle fits neatly in the space, the lid closes and the dongle is functioning as promised. Interestingly the dongle powers up as soon as the USB port is powered when the car is unlocked so by the time i've sat down in the seat and started the car, CarPlay is on the screen instantly with no startup screen wait. Minor Problems: One problem I've noted is that the MIB2.5 Columbus will sometimes forget or not see the USB port being used. This was solved by resetting the unit by holding the power button down Another drawback is that because the unit communicates over the phones wifi signal the resonse on the screen is slightly delayed. This means there is a split second delay on the swiping between CarPlay screens, although the button commands are pretty much instant. Overall pretty happy so far and my cable sadness is all gone!

Car will be 7 years old ( 38k ) in October and glad to report that it's wearing pretty well. All leather is still in great condition with no real wear noticeable on any of the interior even the glossy piano is in pretty decent condition with 1 small scratch thanks to the dealer for that one. Exterior the paint although could do with a machine polish is very good with the odd stone chip but nothing excessive. The silver trim has that cloudy appearance that seemed to appear very early in ownership and nothing seems to remove. The black shiny trim has a lot of small scratches but can only be seen up close. Few problems with creaky suspension that seems to be cured now its not happened for a couple of years. Tailgate struts failed. DSG Lever park problem all repaired under warranty. Last couple of years i've been offered the full warranty for around £360 if I have that offer again I will be taking it up. I have zero interest in changing and cant think what I would replace it with if I did.

Just fitted 4 of them to my car, makes it easier now and hopefully stop the tyre fitters jacking it up on the Sill lips

I shall try this in the morning, I've been pulling instead of pushing to release it first, so this may help massively. I didn't know about the tool so in hindsight I may have ordered one, however the nail idea is a great shout, it looks like a 6 incher! Once again, I appreciate all the advice. You guys are invaluable in helping us to keep our Fabs on the road. 👍

This tool makes it so easy to remove the connector https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/194705886234?hash=item2d55600c1a:g:V9AAAOSwZltb8vQ6

I have come across this before on the wife’s car. Check the front and rear face of the disc as even the slightest buildup of rust where it’s been sat up will make this sound. It was driving my wife crazy until I found a very, very small bit of corrosion on the outer face. Just enough for the pad to graze over it at slow speed. Nothing at all over say 10mph. Grabbed a bit of emery cloth and rubber it out. Until it was parked up again for another 6 weeks, which reminds me ……..

Judging by the amount of paperwork that came with the car, im guessing half of the bill was administration costs.

The little catch on the plug has to be pulled downwards. And as sepulchrave says, you have to try and push the whole plug upwards at the same time to release pressure on the catch, then the plug should be able to be pulled down and off. I used a nail to pull the catch down but have also managed to do it with my fingers a few times..

More than likely the slight noise you can hear is coming from te disc/rear drums mainly from a slight build up of rust on the edge of the discs /drums where the pad does not rub, have a look in through the wheel and you can usually see the rust on the edge, it's a simple job on the front discs but you will have to remove the road wheels and scrape the rust off it's a bit harder on the rear as the drums need to be removed to clean the rust ridge from the drum, this mostly happens if the car has not been used that much, but if you can put up with the noise it might go away after a few weeks of normal use but really nothing to worry about as long as pads have friction on them and are not worn right down, but please check both pads and both sides, some cars outer pad wear down more than piston side due to the slide pins sticking, I always re-grease thse every pad change and on my old fabia with drums realesed the shoes lubricated the handbrake lever shoe and also the shoe pad location raised dimples every time the pads were changed the shoes lasted a lasted a good 70,000 before they were changed, I used a Bosch set as £79 for genuine skoda brake hoes was a bit steep, the bonded Bosh shoes cost £26 and lasted another 35,000 untill our car was kindly written off by a non insured driver

Quite a major, but much anticipated announcement today, covering many charging hubs. Tesla is opening up the UK SuperCharging network to non-Tesla vehicles. https://www.electrifying.com/blog/article/it-s-official-tesla-opens-up-uk-supercharger-network-to-non-tesla-drivers EDIT: Link to TESLA map showing SCs open to all (15 Sites) https://www.tesla.com/en_gb/findus?v=2&bounds=60.60630786089475%2C18.903900211843165%2C48.26553927505605%2C-23.283599788156835&zoom=6&filters=party&search=Wakefield%2C UK

So effecively, you wish to enable autohold in a car which isn't equipped with it?

Each to their own Having just found this video now wondering if the problem is anything to do with the actual MC at all! Skip to 2 mins for the salient moment.

@Noms Who was advising you, was it a Skoda Technician. The VAQ interval is @ 3 years or 30,000 miles. Was this engine oil that they advised at 5,000 miles or 1 year even though Skoda / VW have the fixed servicing even with Long Life oil at 9,300 or 9,400 (10,000 miles) they can never decide how to convert km to miles. https://www.volkswagen.co.uk/en/owners-and-drivers/servicing/service-plans/service-schedules.html

Personally i think its a poor design, i think a plastic nut and bolt with washers would have been a better idea and more sturdy

It is better to put them in first and spread the tangs a little for it to stick in there, or you could improvise this time with something like superglue or putty etc and deal with it properly if it fails later on. Now you will have to try and get it in and hold with your finger whilst inserting pin. It shouldn't fall through, but if it does then thats when i would improvise. But be sure it is seated because if it loosens and pops out later it will be a new regulator by the time you find out.

My 1.4 mpi does about 3,200 rpm at 70 mph and is surprisingly quiet at that speed. You can barely hear the engine, the rest is road noise. I guess with yours being a 3 pot that it's inherently a bit noisier. The Estelle 105S I used to have would deafen you at that speed (when it was able to get there)

Our 280 is 6 1/4 years old with 34k and still on the original P7’s! The only failures have been the right steering wheel controls, replaced under warranty and a rear wheel speed sensor, which made the entire system go nuts as we disembarked the Cairnryan to Belfast ferry and then every few miles for the next three weeks and Ireland and all the way back. Sorted very inexpensively and expertly by Wheelbase in Hersham. It’s the best car I’ve had, including Sierra Cosworth, Mondeo ST200, Fiat Coupe Turbo, Nissan SX200, Lexus blah, blah… and certainly owned. Will be keeping this one for good.

@Dixski6664 Maybe the lip / edge of the front discs is making the noise you hear. Whoever did the servicing and maintenance for the one previous registered keeper knew how to get money out of them. That was some cost in 2020 even if all the brake components were replaced. (Fully serviced with a strip, clean grease need not have the owner drop their trousers and assume the position.) PS If the technicians were being thorough and doing things right then if the last brake fluid change was 6 years ago they should be checking the brake fluid for H2o content at the services.

Will ask what is the minimum required to keep the contract honoured and let you know

Power washed all the muck off, there was a lot. Wishbones were quite rusty underneath it all, suppose they've been covered in mud for 5 years. These brackets too. Sandblasting was messy but did a good job at removing some of the rust. Coated stuff in rust remover gel, other stuff is sitting in vinegar overnight. Seems a bit stupid making all of this look nice and shiny considering how dirty it is underneath. But I'm going to do it anyway.

Thankyou to both for the excellent replies, Just been sifting through paperwork , last mot and service 6th jan. Full service and MOT carried out by independent garage. itemised.. full service , (all the usual work carried out , no mention of fluid "full brake check as required" Noise defo from front . Discs clean and shiny apart from outer edge, No advisories on last mot. Also Jan 2020 (main dealer mot/service) brake fluid changed, rear brakes fully serviced. All in all the mot /service just short of £900. I guess if you want to be 100% visual inspection is the only way . many thanks again.

@Dixski6664 With so few miles covered and so little use of the brakes over the past months do the discs not look a bit rusty after each use and until the next time driven? Is there an actual invoice for the car being serviced and the brakes being serviced and not just an inspection? Have someone look at the brakes if you can not and see the condition of the pads and the discs? ? Is there a service record of when the Brake Fluid was changed? Skoda main dealer servicing does not include much done unless extra is being paid to have it done.

It's been a while since I got my rear shocks and springs (illness/too long a story), but I put them on yesterday and today. One side a day's enough for an old crock like me. The difference is absolutely night and day. The unladen height is now 400mm - before, it was around 360/365, so a good 35mm gained. The car used to make a kind of chirrup or squeak, but doesn't any more. Also, going over speed bumps near where I live - the wide sort, about 8ft wide, not the abrupt rubber-like ones - the car now doesn't squat down on reaching the normal road again. Interestingly the springs supplied with the car were 1K0511115BL - White/Green/Green dots. New they were supposed to measure 365mm, but mine were at about 345 after I took them off. Explains a lot about the sag, I guess. Also, it does indeed seem like they are weight range 6, not 10, judging by the car being a confirmed 1JA, and everything else on the car being standard - i.e. no rough road, no factory tow bar (I fitted mine myself not so long back). So I'd like to say thanks to everyone who shared their info and expertise on here - special mention to @DrCorbyLee, but also @chimaera and @Carlston. I haven't had the bike rack on yet - which is really what prompted doing this - but I'm pretty sure the added height and lack of wallow will help with that. Should have done it years ago 🙄 Briskoda rocks!

Lots of people might end up with Skoda Approved Used cars with a VAQ diff that has not been serviced. While doing the Upselling at the Service desk the staff do not know what are important compared to advisable. That is how it rolls with Skoda that can not just set out what is a Scheduled Service item rather than a 'recommended ones'.

It had an extended scope on year 2. It has a VAQ and no mention of it ever being serviced or me being asked for it to be done from Skoda. It’s the DSG oil change and spark plug replacement that is the sting for what could be 5 months of driving. If I don’t need to have them done to honour the contract requirement then happy days!

Missing the Cardiff SC, 15 sites opened.

Nice to see that you've been cleaning the windows in Formby!

I've installed the Tesla app. for a look see. The app is neat and works just fine. The map shows me just the chargers I can use as a non-Tesla driver. The price is pretty steep, but it is a safety net after all. Making them expensive will deter the casual user and get those who want to charge then go lining up. I expect that more sites will be added after a month or two like they have in Norway and France. On a personal level, they have opened almost all the Welsh sites so that is a win.

Thanks for that. Here's a list in case anyone needs it: https://www.speakev.com/threads/tesla-opening-uk-super-chargers-to-all-from-today.169485/ Adderstone NE70 7JU Aviemore PH22 1PN Dundee DD2 5JT Manchester Trafford Centre M17 8AA Flint Mountain CH6 5QG Aberystwyth SY23 3TL Banbury OX16 1LX Wyboston MK44 3AL Trumpington CB2 9FT Thetford IP24 3TP Wokingham RG41 5DG Uxbridge UB8 1QJ Thurrock RM20 2ZP Folkstone Eurotunnel Terminal CT18 8XX Would be interesting to see if there are going to be problems with cars blocking Tesla cars from charging when busy. I'm glad I've only spent £100 for a reservation rather than just bought a Tesla now. I'm going to wait and see feedback before deciding whether to splash out on a MY. I've asked them to delay until I can get a German built one anyway, I'm aiming for 4680 battery car. Otherwise other brands are looking pretty good now.

@Arseneknows Have you taken 10 minutes yet and had a look see at your brake pads front and rear to see how much wear there is on the pads. All they get at a service is a visual inspection and then the Service Desk person is able to call the owner and say the discs are 80% worn and new pads and discs are needed. When asked to ask the Technician what the actual measurement is funnily nobody knows and 80% meant 20 % of an unknown number.

I’d happily keep the current vehicle but I’m not paying £500 for a service, new spark plugs and DSG oil change for the privilege 🤣

My understanding is that the autobrake is like hill assist, except that it works on the flat, uphill and downhill and works by maintaining brake line pressure until the car moves. I can see no reason why this shouldn't be technically possible even with a traditional handbrake. After all, on a car with an electric handbrake, that doesn't activate when the autobrake is on, only when applied via the handle or by switching off the engine. But because it is theoretically possible, it doesn't mean it can actually be enabled. And of course there is no button.

I think your dealer has not been straight with you, there have been delays with the iV model of over a year for a few months, so it is not clear to me why it has taken until now to let you know. I suspect the dealer has ‘forgotten to tell you’ so you didn’t cancel months ago. This is the problem with PCH (and PCP) they have an end date, which doesn’t work well when replacements can be upto 18 months away. You might want to look at getting an extension, or buying your current car from hireCo

I personally think there’s always going to be specific cases like this where local enforcement has changed. Hopefully they can be picked up on subsequent map updates but in the meantime it pays to be vigilant and understand your surroundings - which should be happening as a matter of course anyway. 😉

What happens in motorsport is irrelevant. It's not like it isn't hazardous anyway! If Skoda sell them like that and the track isn't as quoted on the CoC, they're doing so illegally. Dealers might fit them "post-registration", in which case, the dealer carries the can if anything goes wrong. How on earth do you "service" or "maintain" a modern wheel bearing?!

That would certainly be my preference. However, plenty of people do fit them, and they don't seem to die horribly! As a young lad, I put some (pretty big - maybe about 30mm) spacers on my Reliant. (Don't laugh, it was a 4-wheeled one!) and I thought it looked really cool. However, I didn't really know what I was doing, back then.

With inderect TPMS you are correct, Assuming everything else is constant the wheel with low pressure should rotate faster; how much faster it needs to go to trigger a warning, I don't know. My Karoq has never given me a warning but previous other cars have and there was significant pressure loss, about 7-8 psi before I got a warning. The difference could be different size tyres, different amounts of wear, different recommended pressure front and rear, not being on straight road, etc.

Only a physical inspection will show which sensor has triggered the warning you can't tell with diagnostic kit

Mine goes in for 4 x alloy wheel refurb tomorrow (19" Trinity). I'm changing from diamond cut Anthracite to powder coated gloss black & no diamond cut to match the paintwork (nearly). Should get it back on Friday this week🤞. I'll post some pics then.

Well…………. Wasn’t going to confess up to this…… But!!!! In the belief of if it helps other people out? And using the mantra of “start cheap, work up to expensive” So gets home from work and gets underneath car and side to side play was more apparent, decided to take off centre cap and check the 36mm bolt, and low and behold I could tighten it with the breaker bar! Tightened it up, quick test drive and no knock!!! I know the torque value is 200nm so I’m going to tighten it right up and see how she goes, if not another cv joint (outer) will be ordered and fitted…… morale of the story stand back, accept advise, check the simple and fingers crossed it’s something simple.

Basically same engine, slightly remapped due to emissions I think the 110bhp version is euro6d and 115 the less strict euro6d-temp

Fed up of having to update your car's navigation unit, or run out of signal? Behold, the solution to all your problems... A Bakelite compass and a dod of blue-tack.

Lovely sky after the sun had set this evening

Day 2 - the main event! Rusty ran really well. The clutch and gear shift feel much better, handling and steering are massively improved too. The car sounds great, and had no real issues. Patrizia started telling me "Brake system defective" but everything felt right, no actual brake issues, so I temporarily unplugged the sensor on the brake bomb to shut her up. https://i.imgur.com/uAtQMYY.jpg https://i.imgur.com/o2mRenm.jpg https://i.imgur.com/x3eJe3Z.jpg https://i.imgur.com/kMrpKnX.jpg https://i.imgur.com/FxctYip.jpg

The initial estimated delivery date was way too optimistic imho.

There is a safety certification to work on high voltage systems, so if staff haven’t been sent on the training course (or didn’t pass when they did it) they are not permitted to remove the high voltage components to put mat underneath So no training to fit the mat, but training to remove and replace what is in the way.

Yes you do need to remove the bumper, but it's actually not that hard: ---- ---

Fitted my new steering wheel today it's not a big job to do but you have to take your time with it all the plugs are the same the steering wheel and airbag fit with no problems the steering wheel nut can be reused up to 5 and the taque settings are 30nm+90°.the steering wheel and airbag I used was from a 2019 karoq sportline and the switchs are from a 2013 fabia vrs

Revo