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So it seems that there was a positive reception to do a spreadsheet, so I've made one here: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/17h4myLSMpZ3dohgDJX25mkOhKLbyepEaeEeYcA3AqFY/edit?usp=sharing I know we have different trims, countries and configurations, I've done the best to accommodate for that. If someone wants to do some prettification please feel free

I was actually tempting to do it, but not sure whether people would find it useful. - feel free to add reactions to this message, if anyone would find the spreadsheet useful Unfortunately I will be away for a couple of days, so I could make a separate post on Wednesday where it could be handled.

Reassuring to see the Ducks using the pedestrian crossing at work this morning 😃

Added my info - thanks for making the spreadsheet

As I say a holistic view of our common problem would be most welcome from my perspective. We know there are many waiting and some have been waiting a long time. I also see delivery estimates moving right. So understanding where all stand collectively would help manage expectations. Reporting delivery of new vehicles would also help as I hear many say they are waiting but next to none say “my car has arrived”. if anyone thinks a collective view is a bad idea then please have your say this is a community of interest and different interests will exist

The fog and headlight are all one unit so you need to find the lower of the black bulb holder covers from inside the engine compartment, remove that then remove the bulb and replace. Small hands are useful!

I'm in the process, very slowly, of going from all black to this

So magically, Mine has made it from manufacture start date (9th May) to dealer in 3 weeks... just had a call to say mines arrived and I can collect it on Thursday this week once they get my registration documents sorted. So happy it arrived in time for my holiday.

Yep; fast, easy and cheap way to adjust the rear brakes.

thanks for the plug George 😉 60 is perfectly fine for the UK. I regularly drive from Livingston to Milton Keynes with zero issues. Was in Manchester again last week and at this time of year the car can do that without stopping. I on the other hand can't so I had to stop at Carnforth for aome food and a toilet stop after 3 hours. The 80 has a bigger battery but the extra weight menas it is less efficient, so it's not a linear increase in range with increased battery capacity.

New update from this Tuesday - build week 25 and if this remains the same till next Tuesday it will become confirmed. Not sure if this is error or not, but definitely wont hold my breath.

I've just bought my dream car, but it needs a lot of work! It runs and drives but hasn't been on the road for ten years. Comes with a donor Coupe Gt shell for body parts. As I'm a writer for Auto Clique my build thread will live there - hence the watermarks - but I'll try and remember to duplicate it here http://forum.autoclique.co.nz/showthread.php/2284-Build-thread-Rob-s-Audi-UR-Quattro It has many rust holes. The more I read about these cars and others' build threads the more concerned I am!

Hmm I fear it could really be head gasket.🤔 If head gasket is damaged, coolant leaks into one of the cylinders and then progressively fills it which makes starts become difficult. Indeed since liquids are incompressible coolant here acts as a kind of mechanical stopper on the piston. If the engine finally starts it will start smoking (rather white-greyish smoke, smelling somehow like 'missed' caramel), meaning the coolant in the cylinder is being burnt. Sorry for this bad news... I hope for you I am wrong. Dealing with the EGR cooler hypothesis, It could explain the leak: coolant would then flow into combustion chamber thru admission hoses. It could also explain difficult starts and smoke at exhaust (for same reasons as above). But this option should be less expensive than head gasket. Anyway, 0.5 to 1.0l every week is really important! It's hard to believe the dealer didn't knew about this... With such a leak, I assume he sooner or later also faced difficult starts, even if he simply moved the car in his parking lot. Hope the less expensive for you!

Plenty of those 1.0 engines available in new Fabias in stock here in Slovenia, almost no Octys (there was a Sportline a while ago, not sure if still available).

Saw this on your Instagram. Good work!

Well at long last the RaceChip XLR pedal box has finally arrived. 20 days late from Germany. Brexit at it's best ☹️ Took around 15mins to fit. I located the "Brain" box on a ledge behind the small pull down box next to the light switch - hook & loop sticky things secured it with the box dropped right down as far as it will go for access. For now the remote controller went out of sight inside the pull down box next to the light switch with the cable routed through the back of the box. This is my wife's car so she will never have a need to fiddle with the settings. Note that the above remote controller picture is of the one with the Blue Tooth / App option. I got the one without at £151 incl shipping. I see the current price has now increased to £186.🤔 I started the car & all was good with no warning lights. First I tried it on the N / Normal setting & TBH I could not detect much difference, but then I guess it wasn't supposed to have any change on this setting. I then moved up to the S setting. A tiny improvement. Then S+ setting. A bit better pick up. Then S++. Not much difference to S+. Then R / Race setting. Small change from S++ but probably a bit too aggressive for my wife plus, I also think the tick over might have been a bit higher which is not helpful with a DSG - too much creep. I left it set on S+ for now & went out to do a grocery shop with my wife driving. She noticed the difference & said it felt more "eager" than before. It definitely feels more like a 1.5 engine now than before. So I guess in that respect it has worked - to a point. For me there is still a small lag / dead spot when you press the accelerator which was what I hoped it would remove. I have yet to try it in DSG Sport mode as the wife has taken the car out to do some more shopping on her own. So can I recommend this device? Yes & no. Yes because the car does feel more urgent / peppy once on the move & for a fraction of the price of a Tuning box or Remap. However, there is still a small lag / dead spot when the accelerator is initially pressed. My wife won't notice it but I can. So, I guess this piece of kit does do what it says on the tin, it's just I was expecting it to dial out the dead spot altogether. I was thinking of getting one of these for my Superb 280 as well but after this experience I don't think I'll bother.

Hi Rob, re. dropping off the 15mm fuel line - I did that once while marshalling on the Mobil economy run, (when all NZ motorsport was cancelled in 1974) - I ended up looking and smelling like a monk about to self-imolate!

If you want to test the door next time, just put a screwdriver in the lock instead of shutting it. At least this way you wont be swearing at yourself!

@EnterNameYes sadly. Against all my advice. Someone who might or might not have been the manager called her (edit) and offered to cross her palm with a couple of hundred quid cash money. That will be a wee side deal out of their commission no doubt which does not mess up the finance agreement and the accounts before the end of the month. It will be on a nod and a wink to a blind man. No income tax, no VAT no HMRC. Her uncle has a big mouth though so the car better be an A1 A1 and fixed promptly if not. Her

Should you buy an Octavia iV? I would advise NO! Note KenONeill's remarks above. There are too many owners with too many problems caused by this over-complicated and poorly thought-out car. I will let mine run towards the end of the warranty period and then, after exactly 20 years of Octavia ownership, it will be Toyota here I come...

Good news... or at least I hope it is. Preliminary tests after doing some heavy braking from 60 to 0 on some quiet roads would suggest the brakes still stop fine. Secondly, I tried pushing the pedal as far as it'll go a few times then yanking the handbrake a couple of times. Seems to have improved overall braking feel and the handbrake holds better as far as I can tell. Think I've had a sticking caliper too as one side was a bit warmer than the other at the front and covered in brake dust compared to the other side which was a bit cleaner. Indicated MPG has went up too. Make of that what yous will.

She did start it but didn’t take it for a drive…. 2 weeks this Friday marks 6 weeks since the op and I’ll then be allowed to lift stuff again ….. and I’ll be able drive her again! Started first time but not exactly on the button. Still a bit of blue smoke after a blip of the throttle, but I’ve only clocked about 70 miles since I put the different head on and have been told to be patient and it will go away. Starting to get paranoid something else is up ….. Also, turns out that when Zee disconnected the battery she neglected to check that the car was actually locked before walking away! Thankfully, the little scaly that realised my car was wide open didn’t find anything worth nicking and didn’t cause any damage to anything. All caught on our doorbell camera, for what it was worth.

you are a legend. Thank you!

Oh I do; buffering the living daylights out of my ear’oles above 40mph!

I used this one. Made a mess of the installation first time as didn't know about the airbag in the A-pillar. Tried to get the trim off, but it's really tightly wedged in, so didn't risk forcing it. It looks fine now it's all installed, though.

Whilst not totally on the topic of the 5/7 days dealer insurance, every year when renewing the insurance on our two cars I get it through one or another of the ‘Cash back’ sites (Top cash back or Quidco). Generally speaking I get our Citigo insurance (fully comp / full NCB / 2 retired drivers / 6k miles per year) for less than £100. This time it was £136 policy with £40 cashback insured with LV. I always cross check with the standard insurance search sites and the insurer direct, the full price of the policy is always similar, so it is not as if the cashback quote is inflated.

Thats the funniest thing I have read in weeks! Is this what you would have preferred it to have done?

VID_20220529_111709.mp4 Hurricane .mp4

They had all the toys out at Coningsby today. Never seen such a large collection of Typhoons in any one place.

I do not know for sure the garages i took it too said confliting things my guess it was the head gasket but there was a lot of noise, so I wanted to keep my Felly and I look at purchasing a replacment engine and found one on Ebay being sold by SYNETIQ the engine was year 2000 and had 018,057 miles, so it was purchased. I have it installed now and wow it is so quiet and go's very well no problems except on tick over the engine revs rise and fall a little. I am 99.99% happy and can only say SYNETIQ were very good with the price and delivery of the engine I would recommend them I understand they have the rest of the car still for sale it was a silver 2000 Felicia 1.3 for me it was a case of being at the right place at the right time were can one get a Felly engine with18,000 miles and I can tell you it looks very clean. find picture attached. Heres to the nexted 25 years I hope that will make me 93.

Is this long life oil that you put in and long life oil that you have left in. 5w 30 FSIII so VW504 00/ 507 00 ? It is not going to cause a problem but then hopefully you will change the oil before another 10,000 miles maybe. ? How many miles a year do you do, and how many miles ago was the last oil changed that you were supposed to be changing?

I’ll probably end up unplugging it, just if it’s quiet I’m bound to forget 😞 I did find a fab yesterday with an on/off switch but I’ll still be in the same dilemma of forgetting, but no other way really. I wish car designers had dogs and would put in rear air vents, be so much better there are cars with ac vents but all 7 seaters and no need for that

Scratch that, got it removed after sitting staring at it for a while. Gently (and I mean gently) pull on the bottom RHS to dislodge the 'pin', once that's dislodged move to the upper right stop and wiggle that out. Then, using small movements, wiggle the whole thing to the right at a slight angle and out it pops. Removing the 12v socket was a pain as I assumed it all came out as one piece. It doesn't! Pop the metal part out then the plastic surround comes out easily. Handily there's a plug to unclip so you can just remove the whole lot and do the wiring on a bench. I now have twin USB in the rear using one of these https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B09J2LPJCH/ Apologies @JR RS for the hijack

Diesel is cheaper per mile in fuel, but the initial extra purchase price, issues with DPFs and regeneration and the increasingly anti-diesel attitudeof some councils made it a petrol no-brainer for me. This may be different if second-hand values of diesels fall significantly.

sounds like a very good idea.

As above. Anti roll bar drop link / stabiliser bar link. Thanks, AG Falco

Anti roll bar drop link.

I appreciate this thread is essentially about the ‘free’ insurance on offer but whilst considering that, don’t forget to ponder about choosing GAP insurance too as that could also be thought of as being a must have buy. There is an Insurance section on Briskoda for you to browse the different options.

Very satisfying I bet! I had a similar issue but was unaware, it revealed itself when I removed the gearbox to do the clutch, mine was just generally sloppy rather than notchy, a very easy lazy non precise gearchange like a high mileage Schnorrer. The rusty nut in your photo 3 was loose where some bodger had removed the gearbox before me, I found a few other loose/missing fasteners, afterwards the gearchange was much more precise but ironically I also had to be much more precise with the gearlever movements. It had a tapered splined shaft & would have soon been spinning freely locked in neutral or the last gear.

Sit in passenger side and give it a KICK with fan on full speed if its seized which usually happens a kick will release it A gentle tap wont suffice. You've nothing to loose I've had mine out 3 times now and a clean with some penetrating oil works wonders (for a While)🤪

Void bushes are designed to be stiff in one direction and compliant in the other, I racked my brains but could not come up with the term for a material that does not have uniform strength in all directions. I was a race car constructor and driver and would use solid mountings, polybushes, rose joints etc where they gave an improvement but it was always at the cost of NVH (no loss) and maintenance, any articulated joint using poly bushes would wear. I have yet to find an application on a road vehicle where any benefit would outweigh the disadvantages, certainly on any articulated joint they lose all the benefits of a rubber to metal bonded bush, that of being maintenance free, if they at least had a grease nipple it would be a start for those willing to go back 50 years. I would actually prefer a vehicle that had a more direct connection through the controls and would be happy having to grease all the joints every 6 weeks, when I use a digger I grease all the joints before and after use, but modern suspension designs, the console bushes being a good example could not operate without compliance using rose joints and solid bushes, electric power steering was the final nail in the coffin AFAIK regarding control feedback. Over a decade ago I was driving an old beat up high mileage MK1 Octavia, for the Téléthon our Lycée pro (motor trade) would invite the public to have their vehicles checked over in the workshops then washed & valeted, my job was to drive the vehicles through the various stations, most were newish vehicles, nearly all newer and better condition than mine, normally it would have left me with a desire for something newer and better. It was not the case at all, all of them were huge, heavy yet confined, no knee room, peering over a high dash, narrow slits for windows, bad visibility whilst I was driving through the narrow path between the stations, the worst of all was the total feeling of disconnection between the controls and the steering, suspension, brakes etc, the absolute highlight of the day was a basic 80's Renault 5 which was a total joy, light doors that closed properly with smooth manual window winders, superb visibility, loads of glass and narrow pillars, sublime non power assisted steering, brakes, clutch and handbrake. The drive home made me realise that the dog that it was, my MK1 Octavia was a better drivers car than any of them, when I bought a MK2 I liked how familiar it was but hated the huge A & B pillars and most of all the electric power steering, people said that I would get used to it and very sadly indeed I have but no amount of polybushes could make that or my current Yeti into the drivers car that the MK1 was, quite the opposite, I believe they would make it worse. I have a clonk from the RH front suspension, it does not appear to be the new strut or top bearing nor the cheap drop links that I fitted so later on I will be checking all the suspension bushes, I will keep an open mind regarding poly bushes but only for any joints with a rotational element around the fixing bolt.

Used a bolt next to the fuse box, next to where you remove the side panel of the dashboard. Conveniently it had a negative ground spade connector already attached from the previous owner who hardwired a camera.

i am july and i don't have production date hehe so am am behind you 😕

Although not on lease, my deal, like many whose current cars soared in value, was indeed super duper and I’d crossed my fingers for 8 months hoping nothing about the deal would change. I’m collecting my Moonwhite VRS on Tuesday and have this morning signed all the finance paperwork: same low % rate as back in October, same £2750 deposit contribution, same unbelievably good trade-in price, and not affected by the two price rises since then. Overall I’m getting this car for nearly £13k less than it would normally have been. It’s been an agonising wait, but worth it for sure. Probably a once in a lifetime opportunity due to the pandemic/chip crisis- let’s hope it is anyway.

Hi guys! A few days ago I found this forum after searching for more information about delivery times for Škoda Octavia, and since then I've been reading through this topic to get a better picture of how things actually work. Now, after reading through most of the posts in this topic it seems natural for me to share my experience. So, I have ordered my Octavia Style on the 14th of July last year. At that moment I was told that the approx. waiting time is 9 months, with which I was cool since I didn't need new car immediately. So the 9-month period I was told about ended on the 14th of April and the car obviously didn't arrive. Since the end of January, I am periodically calling my sales representative to see if there is something new happening about the delivery. At the end of January, I was told that my car was ready for production but then it halted because of the fire in Mlada Boleslav. From that point on every time I would call my sales representative he would tell me that situation is pretty bad and that I should prepare for a scenario in which the car will be delivered at the end of 2022. or beginning of 2023. So he was straight with me since the beginning of this agony, which I appreciate very much. Despite all these negatives, last phone call with a sales rep. was somewhat positive because he told me that my car is finally in production. He also told me that I should not get my hopes too high just yet because even if it is possible that the car will arrive in 1 month more realistic scenario is that I will have to wait 3 to 4 more months for the delivery. And that is my experience so far. I will try and update you with any new information that I receive. To whom it may concern...I am from Croatia and I ordered my Octavia from one of the dealerships near Zagreb.

Some news (or rather no news) from my dealer: Porsche Slovenia asked the dealers not to check the status of unfinished vehicles on a daily basis, because they have no info from the factory about the finishing date. The last info they got from the factory was that the vehicles would be finished in 3 months after production has been confirmed (their words, not mine, so not sure if this is within 3 months after being parked somewhere in the field). According to the dealer there are at least 100 ordered vehicles parked. My next question was if there were any new deliveries lately, but I guess it was sent past the working time and will maybe receive something tomorrow. So basically, stop asking, they have no clue whatsoever 😁

All done. What do you think? Before. After. The only thing I'm not happy with is the rusty inner hubs & calipers. Which means I might have to have a go at them myself. Other than that I think the wheels look pretty good & give the car a meaner look.

Well, rapid is means rapid charging. After 30min most EV's would be near 80%, enough to drive on to next charger. Taxi are problematic, they sit on chargers during their break to get as high SoC as possible, charging very slowly a lot of the time. I, for one, like the 30min max stay. It makes splash and dash a lot easier.

Some part numbering info that I have recently, I think, understood. There is much more info on this label than just in the 9-digit VW group part number at the top of the label. The key thing to note about that 6Yx95980x number is that on passenger side modules, the 3rd and 9th digit are always different, on driver's side modules they are always the same. Suffix A after the 9th digit indicates a module made for a car with all four windows electric With reference to this photo, and the colour coding I've added to the bottom line, here is my best understanding so far of what this info means, and most or all of the variants you may see. The green box identifies the brand the module was made/programmed for. Always either SK for Skoda, or VW for Volkswagen. The three-numeral section underlined in orange is model identification. 240 for VW Polo and Skoda Fabia Mk1; 250 for Skoda Fabia Mk2, 258 for Skoda Roomster, and 750 for VW Transporter. The two letters underlined in blue are always either DD or PD. As far as I can see this always means Driver's Door and Passenger Door respectively. There may be a numeral 2 or 4 in between these two letters, 4 meaning 4-doors all with electric windows, but the 2 is often omitted (treated as the default?). The last two characters underlined in red (RS or LS) indicate whether the module was made for a Right-Hand Drive car or Left-Hand Drive. "Right Steering" or "Left Steering" Hope this proves useful, comments welcome. Cheers, Pete