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I purchased my Yeti at the end of May 2013 so it's now exactly 9 years old with nearly 70,000 miles. I'm sure mine is one of the oldest Yetis still in original ownership, may well be the oldest where it is still the main (and only) family car and probably the oldest where there is a complete and comprehensive record of expenditure over its life. So I thought the more nerdy forum members might be interested in my real world cost of ownership. The purchase price in May 2013 was £21,353 including a few options such as the sunroof, metallic paint, the auto-parking feature (a novelty I've never used in anger so not something I'd repeat - with hindsight the electric seat would have been a better investment) and extending the warranty to five years. Second hand prices are a bid mad at the moment so for my purposes I've estimated it's current value at a nice round £5353 to give £16,000 depreciation over 9 years. The subsequent running costs have been Insurance £ 2,420.84 MOT £ 290.00 Petrol £ 9,234.89 Repair £ 1,285.45 Service £ 2,297.30 Sundries £ 1,557.92 Tax £ 1,420.00 Tyres £ 936.46 Total £ 19,442.86 "Sundries" are costs I chose to incur - sun blinds, roof bars, extended warranties, breakdown cover etc. Average fuel consumption over the 9 years has been 41.1 mpg with a maximum of 47.1mpg My average running costs including all of the above and depreciation have been £3938/year (52p/mile) and without the sundries £3765 per year (49p/mile). And of course I still have around £5,000 equity in the car. Just out of interest I looked at what my costs would have been if I'd been able to have a PCP contract over this length of time (essentially paying only for fuel and insurance) which would have been £1295/year (17p/mile) plus of course the PCP charges. With nine years of ownership and no thought yet to change unsurprisingly I've been extremely pleased with the car - it's been reliable, it's versatile and my only real complaint might be that a bit more time and money might have been spent on making the seats a bit more comfortable but it would be nit-picking really.

I would suspect it is supporting a loose heat shield and the mechanic didn't think it through.

This sadly hits the nail on the head. Its in everyone but your best interests to take a damaged car away from you as quickly as possible and then offer you money for it. That way they hold all the cards. Dont be saddened by this though, this a very common practice between insurers and storage yards and 99% of people will follow the same path. They get first dibs on the car and a profit being turned, the insurer gets repaid any monies fairly quickly and you get to see your car nevermore but get a bit of cash in return. Something else you'll find is recovery companies or breakdown companies when you phone them after an accident to collect your car, you are now their best friend and they will do you every favor in the world to look after your car and put it in storage whilst insurance sorts it out. Why? Well because they can charge massive fees to the insurance company for transportation, storage and any other fees they make up. Sad to say its past that point though, but for your next steps these are what you should do. - Dont deal with copart, deal with your insurer. - Make clear to copart and your insurer you wont be parting ways with the car anytime soon and they need to HALT any proceedings to do anything to your car. - Get an independent assessment and you might find its an economical repair - Look all over for prices, get as many prices as you can for the most similar cars you can find - Speak to a company that deal with vehicle accident management - they will deal with it all for you, in return they take a fee but this is charged to your insurer and they work on your behalf and hopefully fight for a better price.

My favorite review: So you cannot currently see the vehicle due to covid and are bidding blindly on things where description is incorrect in most cases! not to mention the loading fee, online bidding fee, highways jacket fee, late fee, storage fee, and many other ripping-off fees all for the sake of a mangled car which I bought listed as "starts and drives" but when it was delivered IT DID NOT EVEN HAVE AN ENGINE!!!!!!!!!! COMPREHEND THIS!!!!

First thing to note, Copart are an absolute horror story and I wouldnt of let them near my car until its decided. Just have a google of the state that some peoples cars are in even after returning from a insurance job. Tanks drained, parts missing, extra damage and all on cars that are just meant to be stored in limbo. Im not saying yours will be in that situation or condition but once its with them, id be looking at taking an offer rather than going anywhere near my car again. I would be asking for an independent assessment as copart are biased - its in their interest to write the car off and give you bottom dollar for it as they will auction/repair/strip it out for their benefit. Basically, dont trust copart as far as you can throw them and instead ask your insurer to assess it independently. EDIT: Some reviews for you - https://www.reviews.io/company-reviews/store/copart.co.uk

I'd suggest looking under the car to see what it's attaching to the underside... I can't imagine it's a factory thing so a previous owner or garage have done something stupid by the looks.

Just tried adding my VIN (that i got cca 2 months ago) to Škoda connect app and it found my car. The last time i tried it was yesterday, but it didn't let me in... Hope that means i will get my car soon. The dealer thinks the same, that the car is finished and waiting transport

I have ummmmmmmmmmmm how can I say this............. made a "version 2"; this is better and in a way supersedes the above. IDE00001 ENG115730 Production mode Exterior lighting.pdf

I see the 'enemy' were present too... In the form of a Trojan (AKA Heinkel) bubble car.

This may be of some use to expand on @vindaloo's point...

The little grille to the right and slightly below the AC button. The panel comes off by pulling from the bottom to loosen, then waggling and persuading the top to pop free. Bending it will probably break it. Can use a flat blade to prise off the vertical side trims to help. Excuse overspray on historic attempt to lose the multiple shades of grey/black interior plastics please.

Darn it. Just when you think you've got a handle on these new-fangled spreadsheets bad eyesight, arthritic fingers and an inability to stay focussed catch you out. Mea culpa, I checked back through my calculations and divided the total costs by 12 months rather than 9 years (for no fathomable reason) so I've corrected that in the original post. Also two MOT's weren't being picked up so I've corrected that. Generally they've been £39 but I did have a couple back a few years that were discounted for some reason - looks like tied in with a service. But I'm still very happy with the car and I don't think I can complain at around 50p/mile for running costs.

One from Sunday.

On the subject of cost to charge, I have recently been using the Bonnet app. to access rapid chargers. The most expensive PAYG tariff is 35p. If you opt to pre-buy charges via their 'refills' that can go as low as 25p (per kWh). All offer a significant saving over current rapid charge prices. They are not partnered with many big CPOs, the most notable being Osprey, Ionity and Geniepoint in terms of numbers but there are plenty of places to charge. They are quite generous with free charging codes too, try FIRSTCHARGE2 to get your first charge for free. more details - https://www.joinbonnet.com/ If you decide to give it a try, please ask me for my referral code to get £15 off. Note I also get £15.

New PB on range and MPG for me. Just did a eco test trip to John O Groats to see what I could get on a tank of petrol in my 1.2 110 TSI and I managed to squeeze out 840 miles to a tank and on empty I managed to drive 80 miles in the Scottish highlands. Plus I managed to get a avg mpg of 66.6 since refuelling. After brimming the tank I calculated that I did 71.3 mpg since refuelling. On the way up I managed to get on the trip computer what Skoda claim u can do on the motorway, 68.9 mpg which I was very happy about. This was just a test trip as I did overtake a couple vehicles on the A9 there and back from John O Groats. I could definitely do better and go further had I not gone up so far in Scotland. I pumped my tyres up to 2.6 bar (38 psi) but I think u can get these up to 40 psi so on my next trip gonna do that. Wonder what u guys have managed to do.

Yay all washers working. As always it turned into a more complex job than expected. The rear washer I had to extend the pipe as it seems to have shrunk with age and wouldn’t reach the pump. The fronts were blocked, and the water smelled funky. It seems to have dried out at some point and formed smelly black slime which has blocked the squirters. Took them off and soaked them in cleaning solution overnight. Had to pull the bottle out and clean it, using bleach to make sure! And I managed to damage the wiring to the pump so had to repair that too. It’s never simple!

I have a mate in Peebles whose accent sounds very much like yours, Ryan.

Picked up car today and well happy with it. Added a couple of wee bits and changed the hood emblem. 235 days to get here- all the best to those still waiting 😬

Ten or fifteen miles less than currently ie model with the heat pump. PSA/ Stellantis did not exactly go big time on either aero or weight reduction and it has pretty big wheels as standard and even bigger as options ? 45 kWh battery is better than many but not class leading against 62 kWh LEAF or MG 5 long range. To me amazing the car manufacturers have not built to date an aero or light bodies ie Ally like the Audi A2 was, to get that extra dozen or two dozen miles extra. I like the ZE 50 Zoe but would lover to trade in for the 60 kWh Megane when it is released, even though UK not getting the 12 inch screen only the 9 inch screen and its range should be 280 WLTP or in the range of 200 winter and 250 summer I reckon ie better than the 170/225 miles the Zoe is and that is not only the slightly bigger battery but that it is less tall than the Zoe which has more of a city car shape. Regen is so important and with the Zoe that only fully kicks in under 90% SOC. Hills too of course and starting from the Severn Valley floor and then usually going up to the Birmingham plateau or Cotswold escarpment makes the consumption look bad in the initial ten or 20 miles, oh to live higher up. Want to get a Bluetti A300 and a couple of B300 batteries and I will be set fair in the car and house and when next Winter's rolling black out come around.

Very nice! Would it be possible to order by order date? As we are probably willing to check whether any other cars ordered close to our order date are starting to be delivered.

^^^ That is really just (TDI) CR S-A (Semi Automatic)

Because they would have been harbouring a grudge against whoever owned the car at the time, the suggestion was that it would have been done in conjunction with one of the rear tyres, the logic (malicious) being that the self drilling screw would create a slow puncture on the rear tyre, that it would deflate when driving and the spare would lose its air when the victim got it out to replace the punctured wheel. Of course in this instance and with what has subsequently been written the rattly heat shield is almost certainly the reason but for those who scoff at the malicious suggestion lets just say that when you have been deliberately screwed over in business you learn a bit about sabotage.

That's the engine number; it should also be quoted in your V5(A); the one you're looking for is 3 or 4 letters, such as "CACA".

Canny guid video wee man! @NM1199 - My other thought was is the temperature control maybe stuck on "hot" when the AC's off?

It seems it is for the heatshield and looks as though the mechanic has put that in to try to resolve the issue they saw and didn't do it correctly.😠

^ Very smart

i think the colour of the wire i mean must be a gray and white where it was melted it looked like the led for the switches the colours ill take a picture of my temp fix on this issue after 5pm today.

I believe so, maybe even paying out more than one time on the same vehicle. I had never heard of the defeat device scandal until you mentioned it, I am now traumatised having Googled it, I feel violated. Needs a bit more refining and then repeating until I earnestly believe it!

It looks like maybe it points at the crankshaft through this hole

Knowing the engine code would help lots here.

It knows and will wait until the worst possible moment …

I see, yes. Basically it reveals whose dealer has been on the map and honest about upcoming situations. By the way, there is a bug on the line 47. If the estimates are not filled the delay formula doesn't work as intended. I made the "Graphs" sheet. Hopefully someone finds it useful as well. Next goal would be to make some history view. To save some data lets say monthly and graph something out of that.

It was all done on E5 99 from Texaco.

Mine came with Goodyear Eagle F1 Sport's which I'm quite happy with, haven't had Goodyear's on a vehicle for a long time but these seem to be a good all rounder and no complaints as yet, will likely run these again as long as the price is competitive.

If it's the small cc petrol EA211 engine (1.0, 1.2, 1.4, 1.5) the water pump and belt is at the rear of the engine so it's a totally different job.

Just found this: in here: https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/iridium-spark-plug-resistance.165965/ I don't know if it's true. If so, I don't know if Felly's ECU do this type of measurement.

At a glance the common thing is those having e-DSG's because of being Mild & Plug in Hybrids. The most common thing there is battery shortages more than any probable shortage of DSG's which Skoda are producing for Skoda, SEAT, VW & Audi's.

They employ those to sit at a service desk with maybe a NVQ is Customer Services, maybe keyboard skills, but even that is doubtful often. The training is on upselling and that is about it. Once they get chatty and interested in cars they are out of there maybe to sales or some other job. No dealership wants anyone with that much of a knowledge on a Service Desk. Do not expect the Service Manager to have any mechanical training.

I don't think this is a coding issue. If I remember correctly, the newer style of wheels use different commands so you probably need an aftermarket LIN convertor/adaptor. Just for example: https://www.drive2.ru/l/581371172306813158/

Morning all - new to this community although I have had a few Skoda's over the years including an 2003 Octavia RS and a 2016 Octavia Scout 4x4 which I have just replaced this week with a 2019 Kodiak VRS. Hoping to learn from everyone out there. Thanks

Hi Everyone, Hope you all are well, just invested in an Octavia Petrol 1.0. I switched over from a ford focus diesel and i must say that i am really happy with my purchase, in comparison. I hope to learn more about how to take care of my new baby, as the focus was a lil neglected over time. Hope to learn loads from ye Regards Sam

It’d be nice if the ‘elves’ in China could develop the device one step further and have it turn on/off via the insertion of the usb cable…

So it seems that there was a positive reception to do a spreadsheet, so I've made one here: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/17h4myLSMpZ3dohgDJX25mkOhKLbyepEaeEeYcA3AqFY/edit?usp=sharing I know we have different trims, countries and configurations, I've done the best to accommodate for that. If someone wants to do some prettification please feel free

If it's really a 2010 then it most likely has a timing chain, not a belt!

Whilst not totally on the topic of the 5/7 days dealer insurance, every year when renewing the insurance on our two cars I get it through one or another of the ‘Cash back’ sites (Top cash back or Quidco). Generally speaking I get our Citigo insurance (fully comp / full NCB / 2 retired drivers / 6k miles per year) for less than £100. This time it was £136 policy with £40 cashback insured with LV. I always cross check with the standard insurance search sites and the insurer direct, the full price of the policy is always similar, so it is not as if the cashback quote is inflated.

The sky was ideal for reflections this evening 👍

They had all the toys out at Coningsby today. Never seen such a large collection of Typhoons in any one place.

Ditto. I should have kept my Viva GT. Rare as rocking horse poo now. However, when you are 20 years old & been used to old bangers & endless weekends under the car keeping them on the road & someone offers you a brand new company car with free petrol & maintenance, what do you do?

I third the built chamber auto-qd. Its good stuff and easy to use diluted but still gives a good finish. In fact all ofnthier stuff is spot on really.

I'll second this choice of QD. I've not yet tried it, but it will be my next detailing purchase. It seems like a completely sensible, ECONOMINCAL choice with a lot of versatility in how you can dilute it.