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Guys, today my daughter was born 😃, before Skoda was able to produce any info, let alone the car itself and I ordered the car in July. At least she was on time, so that is something

So just an update. I decided to tackle them with ultra fine wire wool (0000 grade) and white spirit. First I used a sharp chisel to gentle scrape off the remaining rubbery stuff. It was disgusting. Just like the grime on a shirt collar that had never been washed! Yuck. The wire wool and spirit took a bit of rubbing but it worked. Then I used T Cut to clean it all up, followed by Autoglym Rubber And Vinyl spray. I think it looks a lot better than before. Just need to do driver side front and rear.

Fixed that for ya...

So, I had plans to take the car to a workshop but they didn't have availability for me... and being diagnosed with "immediate illness" I tore apart what I saw in the engine bay and found the reason for the leak. The workshop I was going to have this checked at had changed this not so long ago, but they still did not find anything leaking it in a quick inspection, just said "it's the EGR cooler"... I cleaned the seal and made sure to tighten the lug bolt well, the one on the right (facing downwards in the picture) was clearly not tightened enough before I took it apart. I have already ordered a new seal to replace this one. Am glad this was the "only thing" wrong with it...

Planning on selling my Superb, I took some quality photos for the ad...

if you order a facelift now, you think u ll ever receive it ? i mean before the end of petrole engine in 2035 ?

Little update, finally recieved the air intake trumpet that I was missing from the bay, now just a washer bottle top piece to get from vw and the bays done. Got the gti brakes finally going on this month too

I carry a lot of random ****e in the boot usually. So my solution is an RAC branded boot organiser thing, until I can get the Mk1 Fabia parcel shelf with the netting. Got it as a gift, but they're not too expensive from B&M or Home Bargains. Plus they've got dinky handles on 'em so you can just lift it out, should you require access to the spare wheel.

Cycling back through Hampden Park and went past this rather lovely rarity; 1980 (by the reg) drophead TR7: Was in smashing condition 😎 Gaz

I can't post pictures of mine, it's too upsetting!

Go to dealers , traders, car supermarkets at a quiet time and tell the sales people you would like to look at cars for sale and maybe have a test drive. If they start the offers of a drink, where are you going on holiday and come over as your best friend then make your excuses and leave. If there is a car you like and they need to keep asking the manager to give you a big bargain because you are lovely tell them to get on their bike.

My 1.4 TSi 7 speed DSG (dry clutches) gearbox has started showing some clutch slip after 62K miles. I noticed it first when I was putting it back in the garage and normally just letting the foot brake off is sufficient to put it away as the DSG clutch will take up drive and be sufficient to move the car forward on tickover (my drive has a slight slope to it) but it just slipped back and I had to use the handbrake to stop it rolling back and apply more accelerator. I've since noticed (I was testing it out a bit) that on hard acceleration the engine over revs a bit on some gear changes. I assume it's the clutch pack that needs replacing (I'm seeing a VAG specialist garage next week). Anyone have experience of having this problem? Was it the clutch pack? How much did the clutch pack cost to replace? At the moment the car still drives OK though I do notice the over revving from time to time and also that from stand still it seems to take longer to get moving. Was tempted to call it a day and trade it in for a new car whilst it was still driveable but the car has been otherwise flawless and the 1.4TSi engine is a peach, strong and yet really economical plus of course my car tax is £30 a year so I'm loathe to let the car go.

Mercedes gets it. To get more range out of EV's, it's not about putting in bigger and bigger batteries. It's all about efficiency.

I believe congratulations are in order, welcome baby girl 🥳🥳 Let’s just hope you get your car before she blows the first candle 😉

A while ago I thought the new Fabia would be a front runner as a replacement for our No.2 car at the end of the year, but the obscenely priced Extra Packages have probably sunk that idea. The base car has been stripped bare. I’ll be looking closely at the competition.

Sorry I only know what's in the (good) book - "Engine number The engine number (three-digit code letter and serial number) is stamped onto the engine block." I avoid going into the engine bay of a diesel even more than a petrol as it's usually a very dirty business.

Yes, I tend to agree. An engine running, then roughly, then nothing. And now no compression, on any cylinders . I'd be thinking that bent valves are the result and timing chain slip the cause.

Went to try MB A class phev. Dealer said that A series is sold out for this model year. Expected delivery times for anything is about a year. This just proves that all makers are in the same boat

@J.R. It is actually 'Driving Miss Daisy' as in the movie. It somehow has become a term for someone driving gently with care..... This is 'Miss Daisy'.

It only needs valve to be slightly bent for zero compression, if one gets hit by the piston then those on the other cylinders will also

Luckily you have spotted it before it has got badly worn down in one part of the width. As @roottoot says get them swapped front-back asap. It might also be worth getting the front tracking checked, but I think it is probably cornering forces. Your dilemma is how long to keep them, there are not the best tyres in colder weather, and really you would be better with all season tyres (or even a set of winter wheels and tyres if you live on moors or Dales). As they are summer tyres try and keep them until mid November (May as well get some more mileage out of them), but beware all season tyres tend to jump in price as weather starts to cool from mid September so sometimes better to order them with fitting date 2 months later to get better price, whilst wearing existing summer tyres for as long as possible. If you live on coast where it is milder might get through the winter with them, but only you will know how much you drive in frosty or cold sleety rain.

I've never bought it, but it's £44 for me. Might give this a bash, as it's not been connected since 2018

Apologies, I meant to include that. Tyres are Goodyear Eagle F1 Asymmetric 3 and mileage is 12,355.

That's me thinking everything's about me again. 😄 Seriously though, there's a part of me that's thinking "What are you doing remapping your nearly new car, you lunatic?!" But I actually think I've timed it just right. Do it just as it leaves the warranty period and gives me maximum time with the remapped car. I think that's good advice about changing the plugs, in fact a full service would be a good idea prior to a remap. 👍

2019 so not that old, but how many miles have they been on? That is what can happen with All Season (Winter tyres) used in warmer weather. Not all All Seasons obviously

The build date / build week of the car will be interesting. Was it built in 2021 and waiting on parts to complete so has sat around for over 6 months already. It is a MY22 car. Skoda are moving their backend now to get cars completed and into the UK and First Registered before the factory goes over to producing MY23 cars but also the cars they need First Registered to achieve the 'Average Co 2' figures. Production might be slow later on this year and not enough 'Electrified' vehicles are First Registered to assist VW Group in the UK to avoid being fined. The Dealership / Supplier has an issue with this car in now and it getting first registered and then the Warranty being started and also paying for the vehicle. The Dealer Principal is the person to talk with and not just a sales executive.

Good advice to avoid the plonkers has already been given. Just remember no test drive ever has any obligation to then buy the car, becuase you might not like it. Time wise my general thoughts are to decide what you're predominantly use the car for, town/country or motorway. If you're unsure on the car you want and doing initial looks, then do your research and sit in the cars in a showroom and narrow it down to maybe 5-10 you like the cabin/room etc of. Once you have a list of say 5-10 cars then a 30 minute test drive is totally reasonable. When you're down to 2-3 cars then you work out how long it would take you to get to your required road type (town, country or motorway), factor that into the time and add 30 minutes on to the time to get to it. Typically an hour. If you are serious then few companies will refuse you a good length test drive when you can name the 2 or 3 other cars you are thinking of. Of course there is always the exception, such as an certain dealer that refused to let me drive a car because I clearly couldnt' afford it. (I'd come in wearing jeans and a t-shirt)

I recently completed the first long journey in my facelift Karoq, Birmingham to Torquay. Nice and simple, M5 to Exeter, then A38 and A380 to Torquay. I generally only need satnav for the last few miles but I thought I'd try it out for the whole journey. I stopped at Michaelwood services for about half an hour and when I returned to the car the satnav had forgotten my route. With my old MIB2 satnav it would have picked up my route where I had left off and continued. With MIB3 it didn't even offer to continue navigation, it just presented me with a blank radar screen. Eventually, after several minutes, Torquay appeared on the radar screen so I selected it and the route was duly calculated. At Almondsbury junction, the satnav directed me west on the M4, towards the M48. Needless to say I ignored the instruction and continued on the M5 until the satnav finally got the message that I was going that way.

That looks like a vast improvement

Never ever talk about trade in's. Never have them go look at your car and give a valuation. You look at buying a car, you look at the best price. No matter if finance you want the price. No free Service Plans or crap. Then when you get a price and it is not good enough, not cheap enough they start with the we can put a Service Plan in normally £299 but we will include it etc etc. If you want the car, you want the deal then you still walk saying you are going to think. You are not signing on the day. Then when they are no peeded off you might say'. Do you want to 'Buy' my car. But that is only after you have the cost of the car they are selling. You are not going on 'cost to change'. If you have to buy the VED then you do not add that to the finance, or add anything else to the finance. Just put the VED on monthly payment with the DVLA. ** It seems easiest to do a deal and your car goes to them and you get the new car when you drop it off.** That is costing you maybe a week wages or more for that easy deal. If they want your car to go and punt to WBAC or put away to a mate or auction and make money then you just do the same and advertise a sell it or go to a trader locally and ask if they want it.

Thanks all, your advice is very much appreciated!

Wrong! Never gets old... Told 'em they can have heated seats in the back when they're old enough to buy their own car. Took them a while to realise that they won't be in the back at that point...

Tis fairly easy to remove the black trim on the side. On the far right, u'll c a small plastic cover (#1), that can b popped out using a small flathead screwdriver. This will reveal a torx screw (#2) that u remove. Once the screw is out, u simply slide and pull out the trim (#3) gradually.

You won’t believe this…..FFS, I’VE GONE AND DONE IT AGAIN TODAY!!! 😩

used to pull into random dealers and take the odd car for a drive just to do something for a half hour if i had time to kill. any dealer that wont let you oark a car outside their door and drive a diferent one around without needing you make any sort of commitment is worth avoiding imo, as they clearly have trust issues so are going to be a lot harder to make a deal youd be happy with.

The engine runs fine and is quiter once upto temp. No strange behaviour or higher oil temps etc. I will put 5w 30 back in at some point purely because I prefer to have the correct grade in. I just havent gottent around to it yet with work and getting ready for our 2nd child who should be born in about 4 weeks or so.

That is fine then with your low mileage so far. But this was meant as general post and not specifically about your car. Anyone remapping a car really should check plugs before hand. even upgrade but that is not an issue with your engine.

I've had my Octavia VRS Estate IV less than 2 weeks. Built Dec 2021, showroom managers vehicle for 8,000 miles of it's life before I purchased. Was the only one I could find with the options I wanted, avoiding the long wait of a factory order. I have already experienced the SOS popping noise and failure notification on my first outing. Dealer didn't do the software update, although apparently never experienced this issue before (**cough**, **cough**). Got it booked in with my local dealer instead for the end of the month who helped change the privacy in the entertainment system to reduce the notification, which has worked. Car also missing the umbrella which the dealer I purchased from is supposed to be sending me. Also experienced starting the car but the entertainment system completely blank screen apart from the climate control buttons appearing at the bottom. Turned off the car and the entertainment system came on. It was like it never registered the first push of the start button. Notifications of 'Exit warning system and rear traffic alerts currently unavailable' and a 'park distance control' error. Both cleared when next started the vehicle. I'll be asking the dealer to check them over also. Electric only for the local school runs. Lasts me 3 days before battery is flat and having to charge. Found the motor isn't very strong compared to the wife's e-golf. I appreciate it is a heavy car with an engine, fuel, batteries, etc... which I'm sure is a contribution. Around town, it's not been a problem. Took it on a 220 mile round trip at the weekend. Started with a full battery, 130 miles of petrol on the GOM, air con on in normal hybrid mode. 98 miles was on the motorway. Arrived at our destination (110 miles) with 1 mile of electricity and 90 miles of petrol remaining. Charged using a 3 pin plug from solar panels was easy. Around 6 hours I think it took. On the return, I topped up with fuel partially filling the tank. Readout was 290 miles of petrol, 37 miles of electricity. Return route was 60 miles motorway, 30 miles dual carriageways and the rest A roads (110 total). Again normal hybrid mode, air con was off this time round instead going with an open sunroof. Returned with 9 miles of electricity remaining and 230 miles of petrol. Sat nav used on both routes. Overall (early days), it's fairly comfy. Had 2 Karoq's before so I am familiar with the seating. Glitchy entertainment system is frustrating and having the home button on the passengers side is just daft. Braking is sometimes guess work. Regenerative works around town but not well on motorways. When you actually need the brakes, they grab sharply I have found. I love the looks of the VRS estate (in Black), ride was smooth, cruised perfectly on the motorway, economical and spacious for a family of 4 and a dog. Boot although smaller than ICE versions, easily takes our 3 large suitcases (two side-by-side and one on top) with room for many more bags and kids stuff. This is early days but I'm pretty happy so far.

just off a week long holiday trip with the mk4 VRS. Overall ( and lets just accept that the climate controls are rubbish ), car comfy enough/fast enough when full of kids and stuff and bikes on top. One issue, which I guess is common to all higher powered front wheel drive cars, is the torque steer if ever put the foot properly down. I didn't notice this as much on the Mk 2 or 3 VRS, even though the Mk 4 has the fancy diff. I also seems slower to kick down then either of the previous versions, and less "exciting" when it does...or maybe just because its a bit quieter. I think it does emphasise that on this sort of car, which most of the time will be a family holdall, lower down torque to help efforltess A road wafting is more useful than top end revvy power ( even if the latter would be classed as more "sporting" ) . DPF issues aside, I can't help thinking that the diesel 4x4 VRS would be a lovely thing to drive waft-ely fastish

Big belt, on a pulley the opposite side of the wheel to the chain side. Large pulley, not that much smaller than the wheel rim diameter. G

Thanks, I thought it might be but wasn't sure. @R_Blueyou should be removing this on coolant changes to empty the block of existing residue and perhaps picking out any crud there from draining the coolant and when cleaning and flush draining, I don't know about this engine but some engines can have a lot of silt and crud there, better out than in.

Here we are. Sorted. http://mirack.com.au/product/xt-tilting-rear-wheel-carrier http://liftedimports.com/best-rear-tire-carriers-for-suv-subaru

TRITON 6.5Jx17 ET41 fitted with 215/55R17 tyres https://eshop.skoda-auto.cz/cs_CZ/kolo-z-lehke-slitiny-triton-17-pro-superb-iii/p/3V0071497++8Z8

Thanks All. Yes I agree the miles per k/wh is clearly totally inaccurate. I’d have thought it not beyond Skoda to have worked out how to do it properly when so much else is really excellent Ive been driving it recently in eco e mode and am getting about 38 miles so not far off the stated max. Admittedly the journeys have been well suited to this mode. But thats why i bought the car so a good result so far. Lets wait till winter and see then

They got it right with the Mitsubishi I-Miev. As they get older & there is battery health reduces they get lighter as they rust away. We know Aberdeen is not on the West Coast...

This is solved!! Changed alternator and zero fault codes now. Alternator LIN line was dead in alternator.

Take it to another V/W independent garage for a 2nd correct diagnosis👍

I lasted a,whole two weeks before I replaced mine with Bosch ones😁

One of the benefits of the hybrid is the braking effect produced by the regen system. I hardly use the brakes going downhill, particularly when I set cruise control. When approaching a junction, I only use the brakes to provide a complete stop. Also, the regen charges the battery: going down a steep approx 3-mile hill near home it adds about 700 watts.