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Got a phone call from the dealer today and I'm booked in to collect a week tomorrow - it's actually happening!!

My car has its reg number! I guess that means its only a matter of logistics.

If you're stuck you can always use the key to press the "start" button (instead of using your finger). That brings the key close enough to the button for the backup RFID reader to acknowledge the key. This bypasses the radio key check and will allow you to start the vehicle.

Wow, ordered March 2022 and already finished, you are lucky 😉

Thread revival, but due to some potential issues with a car on order we had a look at some other options so we know where we are ahead of the outcome of an open question. We tried an Audi e-tron and it had a lower touchscreen with haptic feedback. A big improvement over a touchscreen without it, but still not a patch on a physical button. You had to look down and find it and look until your hand was in the right place. Honestly I think it's a huge mistake from a safety point of view to go to touchscreen for many of these controls.

Information re-posted from the Facebook group "Dodgy cars":- Dodgy Cars | Facebook Car:- Skoda Kodiaq, 2lt TDI Sportline, DSG, 4x4, with 7 seats Reg;- OV68 XVC Link to Vcheck report:- Full Check for 2018 SKODA KODIAQ SPORTLNE TDI SCR 4 (vcheck.uk) Car sold at Auction/salvage with minor damage & mileage recoded on 28th January 2022 & stated as 99,685miles Car repaired & sent for MOT on 15th February 2022 & mileage stated as 18,951miles Car for sale on Motors.co.uk via "London Prestige Car Sales Ltd." July 2022 & mileage stated as 20,000miles with a "clear HPI" check. (HPI is basically useless, vcheck is the only thing to use!) Link to sales ad:- 2018 (68) - Skoda Kodiaq 2.0 TDI SportLine DSG 4WD Euro 6 (s/s) 5dr (7 Seat) (motors.co.uk)

That is a VERY useful Facebook group. Thanks for sharing!

I ordered a special plate for my VRS: 001 VRS Fits perfectly.

As has been stated many many times it's got sod all to do with 'calibration' but everything to do with **** poor coding from the VAG drones who wrote the software. The car thinks it's in a left hand drive environment and refuses to overtake on the right as it believes you to be undertaking. The cars appear in their correct positions on the display it's just the car is badly programmed. And they've not yet sorted it.

Cant edit my reply... But i got it working. Thanx for the help.

It's not. Any 'quality' SD card will suffice for a Columbus system. The faster the better though.

If it helps anyone I created a 3d-printed wireless charger holder for my 2021 TSI IV front tray and iPhone. I made two versions, one for an eono charger and one for an Apple MagSafe charger. Works a treat and a damned sight cheaper than the original option. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5180289

I guess it’s a bit easier for me as I can rationalise that without the meds I would unquestionably be dead, (this medication didn’t exist 15 years ago) whereas your situation is completely different 😞

That sucks, mate ☹️

Seems I'll have quite a bit more free time on my hands to work on both fabias, and I have plenty of parts stocked away to keep me going for now.

Another "not a proper update" update. Yesterday I went to see about a job lot of fabia parts for the mk1. Ended up with a lot more parts than I expected, including some that I absolutely need for this. Boxes full of parts all for 50 euro which I'm thrilled about. This box and some other bits are off a 1.9 sdi leon, wasn't originally part of the deal but a lot of this stuff can work on my car. Sorted things this evening, and this is the parts I've got together to go onto the mk1 first. Notice the alternator, that was off the aforementioned leon, spins free and should be a suitable replacement for the wonky one on the car. Track rods I had, washer bottle I had too. And this is the amount of stuff I now have lying in the shed with little use for, probably stick most of it up on ebay or marketplace, but I think there's still a few odds and ends there I could use either. (A fair bit of this pic is stuff I had beforehand) Notably I now have an sdi starter and an abs pump off the Leon the other sdi bits were off. Imagine they would be worth something to someone. Few other odds and ends not pictured, sensors and the likes. This is the bulk of it however.

Or not; that's the place where oil usually accumulates in the intake pipework anyway, and illogical as this sounds, it can leak from there without there being a boost leak there.

Can't do any harm and if it's something you want to do, I often find just doing it is best. I took my intake 'tray' out and dremeled out the holes on the drivers side, it's not perfect and some worry about water infiltration so some only do the top half to give some protection. I also added the blanking panel, although most places you buy it from wont supply it with screws. I did mine so soon after buying my car that I couldn't tell if it made a difference but its well documented through Golf MK7 GTi and R forums to improve things. Removing the snowgrate also helps things. Check out this website, he's done alot of testing. http://mygolfmk7.com//2019/02/more-stock-airbox-work/ http://mygolfmk7.com/2018/09/stock-airbox-modification/

It means a pump, not a rack. The rack is just a dumb lump of metal.

30.000km ago

Some people find the ride a little hard/bumpy. You might have also noticed that the higher pressure setting were listed for high load / fast speed. They are now listing them as an ECO setting as well. A lot of people think 30 PSI all round is OK. 😲 Some people even get the pressures checked once a year when the MOT is Done. 😲 ( PS. they don't get checked on an MOT. ) Thanks, AG Falco

What law am I breaking Ken and what are the penalties?

I've got a honeywell EvoHome system, which is (IMHO) fantastic and has really saved a lot of money. We do use smart TRV, such that each room is controllable, but the house is on a single circuit. If you can controll each radiator or each room without them, you must have one heck of a complicated zoning setup What sort of things are you interested in? Yes you can using basic TRV, but the better smart ones give you the advantages of a programmable thermostat (6 temperature changes each day) and allow you to set them by the room. You can also turn off the heating and drop it into frost mode whilst you're out, or change temperatures up/down without having to go down to a central stat or TRV. It's not always useful, but for us we had a single stat in the coldest room and a set of TRV that you set to what you'd want the room to be at when it was in use. The advantage of the smart system, was that we can now set the rooms to say 10 degrees when they're not in use and the appropriate temperature when they are. This means we are only heating the rooms you are using and this is automated, such that you don't need to adjust the TRV in the room when you go in. It could be achieved manually, but it's far easier without. Our system also has a stab at (but not true German style external stat) weather compensation, such that if a weather forcast says the house will heat up and the system thinks the house will gain heat quickly enough it won't heat. It can control the hot water temperature on 6 time times, not just on/off, which has additional savings. It's horses for courses, but we think it's taken about 30-40% off out gas consumption over the last couple of years.

I was hoping that there was light at the end of the tunnel, but just heard from the lease company that mine has been pushed back from an unconfirmed week 35 to unconfirmed week 39 😭😭😭

Nobody can legally share you the documents. You should make an account on erWin Skoda, and you can then download the document yourself for a small fee. https://erwin.skoda-auto.cz/erwin/showHome.do Scrolling to the very bottom... It will probably be useful to grab all the documents from this list, as it has repair information in the files.

Yep it is mad... definitely nothing to do with calibration or radar, Skoda UK and dealers know its software but they cant find out exactly why or where the glitch happens. Luckily the display proves the car know exactly here the traffic is so it is not possible it is calibrated wrong. Calibration would always be wrong, not intermittent, and the car would appear in the wrong position to real on the dash, which it never has. They just don't seem too interested in spending the time and effort (money) to fix it. The problem is that although everyone has the same 'boxes', software is not tested (by car manufacturers because its not deemed as safety) on every 'box' configuration that the cars have, supply companies change elements of their hardware but the box is deemed the same. When cars become driver-less this issue will be deemed as a safety issue and more rigorous testing will have to be done to ensure there is either system resilience to failure or failure rates are in the 1 per millions of hours, more in line with aircraft software testing. Its probably only a RHD issue as well so again, low priority for Skoda/VAG to fix. Sadly they absolutely know what the issue is, and have told us, but they cant fix it. Its only one of many software issue/bugs the cars have so its just time before they fix it.... its only been two years so far!! Look how many OTA updates we have all had in the last few months, all of them say that they are software issue fixes and updates, none have given my car any 'upgrade' just slowly fixing the plethora of bugs.

If you have the Travel Mode setting in the Light Settings menu and it is set to the correct side driving, I would say you need to do no more. The car will determine the correct beam pattern for left or right hand traffic.

If i'm not mistaken, Ikea ones are 5W only. It will not feed your phone when using AA for example. It will just slow down discharging.

Heads up for the obligatory introduction post for South Wales – weather is inclement, current car Superb 2.0 TSi 190 black (also 3.6 Vellfire family bus), previous Skoda experience - Superb 3.6 (2010) also black (OV10NNO). Various VAG cars over the years – Lupo GTi, A6 C5 2.5 TDi, TT 225 MK1, A8 D4 3.0, Passat B8 R line 190. Many other fun things in between from Alfa’s to Subaru's. Will be interested in general forum advice, retro-fitting, detailing and some VCDS coding, car is a family run about / work vehicle most of the time. Have a good rest of the day!

Now it makes much more sense. I can confirm coding works properly in my case as well Thank you @varooom!

Yes, see at about 4:05 here: VW Golf KEY chip immobiliser location HOW TO DISMANTLE VW SEAT SKODA AUDI remote / rozbor klúča - YouTube

Dealer sent an email last night with boat details so I got to work tracking it down. I don’t know if your one is on there. If you’re up north then I doubt if it will be coming into Sheerness, probably Grimsby? See if there’s any boats departing Emden bound for Grimsby.

How does a private reg make it mutton pretending to be lamb? It's not like you can make a car look newer... 😲 How do you know it's on that boat? Is mine on that boat?!

You need to get it scanned with a reader suitable for reading all the VAG consoles. Have you checked the fluid level in the reservoir under the battery.

That is what happens, when you pay more and you also have quite some luck.

Not such a good garage if they are expecting to hear a click from the aircon pump, VAG have not used clutch drive aircon pumps for close to 2 decades. 2 ways to diagnose the system: 1- Connect an aircon manifold guage set and compare the high and low side pressures and to the chart corrected for ambient temperature, this is by far the best way to know exactly how it is performing. 2 - Use VCDS, it will only tell you the high side pressure and you are never sure if its ambient or guage pressure as the info is contradictory, most of the measuring block figures are fantasy and simply calculated figures not what is actually happening, on the positive side if the system is shut down due to a fault, (usually low pressure) it will give you a shut down code which will hopefully reveal what the issue is, the downside is that if say the compressor modulating valve is sticking it will show everything working hunky dory but no cold air from the evaporator, also of the shear plate has broken and the pump is not even turning it will show fantasy figures for compressor load and RPM. The guage set never lies but few people these days know how to use them since the advent of the (not) idiot proof machines made for idiots.

There's a thread about 190 fuel consumption. Today on my trip to turbo technics I thought I would see what I could get. I shan't be doing this again. After visiting TT, I went to see fellow forumeer Awe Sam so that we could compare my stage 2 to his stage 3. All I can say is that he's convinced me to do it. Mine may have the bark, but his has got the bite! Awe Sam by name, awesome by nature 👍

1. You cant acurately measure how much youre putting in 2. Its illegal to work with refridgerents without proper training 3. The system may have a leak 4. You are not purging the system properly to remove moisture and air 5. By the time youve purchased everything its the price of a regas 6. You cant fill your car with pressure alone, needs to be weighed in 7. Just dont do it, take it to somewhere with an actual machine that will do a leak test (albeit a useless leak test 99% of the time) and top your car with the correct weight of gas Also, why does it need a refill, where has the gas gone?

Not legally under UK laws anyway they haven't.

I don't doubt it, I've just been lucky with mine, I guess. What I meant by "as intended" was e.g. not using it on winding and undulating roads, from my own experience 🤪 This is true when buying a car, IF the price is incremented due to the feature, which I doubt. For those already owning a car, it's another feature added for free. Many will find it useful, but obviously some won't.

I have a friend eho bought a plug-in hybrid and when he travels it consumes more petrol. And I'll never buy electric car as currently the production of battery is more producing more pollution than using an evonomic petrol motor. And the disaster will arrive when we will have a huge amount of batteries to recycle. I prefer waiting the hydrogen technology to take place.

https://skoda.7zap.com/en/cz/octavia/oct/2008-419/4/407-407000/ Front https://skoda.7zap.com/en/cz/octavia/oct/2008-419/5/501-501020/ Rear

I would love octavia as it is now. Just as full electric. Personally I wouldn't need super big battery. 150km of winter range would be fine.

No idea... should probably check. Yes, was mechatronic ECU.

206 kW, love this car

In my favourite colour. Look smaller if further away!

Planning on selling my Superb, I took some quality photos for the ad...

My last Mk3 PFL Octy vRS (63 plate), bought it in May 2020 with 41K miles full Skoda history for £9250 private sale (of the century!). Sold to a car buying service in Feb 2022 with 51K miles for £13,750 ( £250 lower than WBAC website offer, but no quibble collected from home). It ended up in a Renault / Dacia / Citroen main dealers who put it on the market at £16,995, they then lowered price to £15,something and now still for sale down to £14,358. That will teach them for getting greedy at start, there is no way they didn't pay more than that off car buying ones hahahaha. I am semi tempted to buy it back as they do 2 years free servicing with used cars and warranty etc then what they don't know is that I still have a major service pre-paid for on a service plan for that car. If they drop price again, it could be the perfect crime lol

It will be a camp site even if it is Pods or maybe a Pod site. There are Camping in cars with no tents, and dogging without a dog. There are not enough 'Best EV's for dogging' videos. This looks perfect.

OK, I found this You Tube video most helpful in removing the Air Box, etc. Re special tools, You will need LARGE Pliers especially the very large Hose spring clip on the airbox. If the spring clips on the hoses look really badly corroded, you may want a spare jubilee clip or 2 incase they break when you try to open them. I found it easier to remove the Thermostat and its attached hoses as one unit off the DSG Cooler, and then undo and replace the Thermostat unit on the workbench. Loss of fluid this way is less than a cupful. You will need to slowly prise off the hoses from the metal DSG cooler fittings, once you have moved the clips back onto the middle of the hose. I used a wide flat bladed screwdriver. Now to the Thermostat itself. Yes there are many available at different prices, and that is because they all have different Temperature opening settings. You tend to find that the cheaper units have a lower opening Temp, as they are for other VAG models, that require different opening Temps in the DSG cooler. For the DSG on the Yeti, you want an opening Temp of 75.C not any lower, Else Consumption, smoothness of gear change, etc will be effected,