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Got a phone call from the dealer today and I'm booked in to collect a week tomorrow - it's actually happening!!

My car has its reg number! I guess that means its only a matter of logistics.

If you're stuck you can always use the key to press the "start" button (instead of using your finger). That brings the key close enough to the button for the backup RFID reader to acknowledge the key. This bypasses the radio key check and will allow you to start the vehicle.

Wow, ordered March 2022 and already finished, you are lucky 😉

Thread revival, but due to some potential issues with a car on order we had a look at some other options so we know where we are ahead of the outcome of an open question. We tried an Audi e-tron and it had a lower touchscreen with haptic feedback. A big improvement over a touchscreen without it, but still not a patch on a physical button. You had to look down and find it and look until your hand was in the right place. Honestly I think it's a huge mistake from a safety point of view to go to touchscreen for many of these controls.

Information re-posted from the Facebook group "Dodgy cars":- Dodgy Cars | Facebook Car:- Skoda Kodiaq, 2lt TDI Sportline, DSG, 4x4, with 7 seats Reg;- OV68 XVC Link to Vcheck report:- Full Check for 2018 SKODA KODIAQ SPORTLNE TDI SCR 4 (vcheck.uk) Car sold at Auction/salvage with minor damage & mileage recoded on 28th January 2022 & stated as 99,685miles Car repaired & sent for MOT on 15th February 2022 & mileage stated as 18,951miles Car for sale on Motors.co.uk via "London Prestige Car Sales Ltd." July 2022 & mileage stated as 20,000miles with a "clear HPI" check. (HPI is basically useless, vcheck is the only thing to use!) Link to sales ad:- 2018 (68) - Skoda Kodiaq 2.0 TDI SportLine DSG 4WD Euro 6 (s/s) 5dr (7 Seat) (motors.co.uk)

That is a VERY useful Facebook group. Thanks for sharing!

I ordered a special plate for my VRS: 001 VRS Fits perfectly.

As has been stated many many times it's got sod all to do with 'calibration' but everything to do with **** poor coding from the VAG drones who wrote the software. The car thinks it's in a left hand drive environment and refuses to overtake on the right as it believes you to be undertaking. The cars appear in their correct positions on the display it's just the car is badly programmed. And they've not yet sorted it.

Cant edit my reply... But i got it working. Thanx for the help.

It's not. Any 'quality' SD card will suffice for a Columbus system. The faster the better though.

If it helps anyone I created a 3d-printed wireless charger holder for my 2021 TSI IV front tray and iPhone. I made two versions, one for an eono charger and one for an Apple MagSafe charger. Works a treat and a damned sight cheaper than the original option. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5180289

I guess it’s a bit easier for me as I can rationalise that without the meds I would unquestionably be dead, (this medication didn’t exist 15 years ago) whereas your situation is completely different 😞

At least I know what caused my problem. Would be driving me up the wall being in your situation 😞

Another "not a proper update" update. Yesterday I went to see about a job lot of fabia parts for the mk1. Ended up with a lot more parts than I expected, including some that I absolutely need for this. Boxes full of parts all for 50 euro which I'm thrilled about. This box and some other bits are off a 1.9 sdi leon, wasn't originally part of the deal but a lot of this stuff can work on my car. Sorted things this evening, and this is the parts I've got together to go onto the mk1 first. Notice the alternator, that was off the aforementioned leon, spins free and should be a suitable replacement for the wonky one on the car. Track rods I had, washer bottle I had too. And this is the amount of stuff I now have lying in the shed with little use for, probably stick most of it up on ebay or marketplace, but I think there's still a few odds and ends there I could use either. (A fair bit of this pic is stuff I had beforehand) Notably I now have an sdi starter and an abs pump off the Leon the other sdi bits were off. Imagine they would be worth something to someone. Few other odds and ends not pictured, sensors and the likes. This is the bulk of it however.

Can't do any harm and if it's something you want to do, I often find just doing it is best. I took my intake 'tray' out and dremeled out the holes on the drivers side, it's not perfect and some worry about water infiltration so some only do the top half to give some protection. I also added the blanking panel, although most places you buy it from wont supply it with screws. I did mine so soon after buying my car that I couldn't tell if it made a difference but its well documented through Golf MK7 GTi and R forums to improve things. Removing the snowgrate also helps things. Check out this website, he's done alot of testing. http://mygolfmk7.com//2019/02/more-stock-airbox-work/ http://mygolfmk7.com/2018/09/stock-airbox-modification/

It means a pump, not a rack. The rack is just a dumb lump of metal.

30.000km ago

Cheers Varoom, I bought a can WD 40 silicon because it has the long straw attached and presto it worked a treat. Thank you very much for the great help.

What is relevant is not about doing topping up. It is removing old gas and H20 and the disposal.

I’d wait for the 72 (if it arrives before then - mine took 5 weeks from leaving the factory to delivery at the dealership…before they then have to PDI it). I know you’ve waited a looooong time but if you only have it a couple of weeks before it becomes “the old reg” then I think you’ll be miffed. Plus there’s the value to think of.

I was hoping that there was light at the end of the tunnel, but just heard from the lease company that mine has been pushed back from an unconfirmed week 35 to unconfirmed week 39 😭😭😭

That was an absolutely fascinating watch! who knew that how you display your suit jacket was such an important way to display your status, as well as the status importance of being in a 1.6, 1.8 or 2.0. Company cars in general are a dying breed, my organisation have just informed a few older staff that they are having to theirs removed next March and are switching to a car allowance as has been the case for new starts for a few years now. any sales reps I have ever come into contact with had Passat’s and it’s probably one of the few saloons left that’s not true premium brand. I did feel sorry for the rep who cried with his wife about being given a Maestro! thanks for sharing!

Not legally. Oh and I wouldn't go near a Skoda stealer with a job like this; look in Yell.com for mobile air conditioning service.

I had a hunch that was your version, but I prefer not to brick your entertainment. In 5 minutes I shall send a PM to you for 0480 version

Yep it is mad... definitely nothing to do with calibration or radar, Skoda UK and dealers know its software but they cant find out exactly why or where the glitch happens. Luckily the display proves the car know exactly here the traffic is so it is not possible it is calibrated wrong. Calibration would always be wrong, not intermittent, and the car would appear in the wrong position to real on the dash, which it never has. They just don't seem too interested in spending the time and effort (money) to fix it. The problem is that although everyone has the same 'boxes', software is not tested (by car manufacturers because its not deemed as safety) on every 'box' configuration that the cars have, supply companies change elements of their hardware but the box is deemed the same. When cars become driver-less this issue will be deemed as a safety issue and more rigorous testing will have to be done to ensure there is either system resilience to failure or failure rates are in the 1 per millions of hours, more in line with aircraft software testing. Its probably only a RHD issue as well so again, low priority for Skoda/VAG to fix. Sadly they absolutely know what the issue is, and have told us, but they cant fix it. Its only one of many software issue/bugs the cars have so its just time before they fix it.... its only been two years so far!! Look how many OTA updates we have all had in the last few months, all of them say that they are software issue fixes and updates, none have given my car any 'upgrade' just slowly fixing the plethora of bugs.

If i'm not mistaken, Ikea ones are 5W only. It will not feed your phone when using AA for example. It will just slow down discharging.

Thanks for the feedback. It also helps others that search for the same issue. Enjoy the feature!

Now it makes much more sense. I can confirm coding works properly in my case as well Thank you @varooom!

Good morning Hardy, I believe it's located between the LED indicator and the key release button.

Mine’s on the way!

Hi AlexUK51, Kamiq MY21 Once the door is LEVEL to the floor, slight WIGGLE pulling out pressure on the LEFT and RIGHT sides to release the 2 x hinge catches. [The FEMALE hinge part is an 'open C' shape Male /Female. ] ( see pic ) When refitting the fuse door, ENSURE the door is LEVEL and Wiggle in LEFT and RIGHT pressure to the sides, as you push back in. FYI: There is this ANOTHER fuse board under the bonnet. ( Picture from Skoda Kamiq handbook ) rgds distrnc

That is what happens, when you pay more and you also have quite some luck.

Hello, and good luck with your car hunting.

Topic moved. 👍 I’d still try another battery as there’s loads of threads regarding this!

I agree with all of the above especially the last sentence, I do however have a comment on number 6. I have a manifold set, vacuum pump and R134a cylinder, I have tried using electronic luggage scales to show the weight of refrigerant going in but the things keep cutting out or resetting in the time it takes. Its not the ideal situation but I have found that with knowledge and experience you can fill from empty or top up by watching the interaction of the high & low pressure guages, it is after all how all skilled AC fitters did it before they made idiot (not) proof machines to do the job for idiots. Whether I am topping up or refilling from a vacuum I stop as soon as the guages react as they should, its probably a little bit less than a full charge and in the month that follows if I dont feel the system is performing as it should I will try again and usually there is a small uptake of refrigerant, this used to make me feel there was a leak but I havn't had to do it again in the 2 years since and its coping well with the constant 40° plus weather currently here.

You should do as @J.R.said and lay into them, sure you fixed it... But shouldn't have had to. Do hope you took another picture of the pipe with the top cover removed.

Skoda sell their models all over the world, including in hot/humid/tropical countries and reuse the same hardware across a number of models and trims, whether that is for Norway. Sweden or India & Singapore, or anywhere in between these temperature extremes. In the European market regions, they fit the same air con condenser as they do for very hot/humid/tropical countries, but choose to have it set at a lower power rating for WLTP emissions purposes, as driving the air-con unit at full capacity all the time will have an impact on fuel economy. Simplest way to think about it is that if the car interior is at 30 degrees when you get in and you want to get it cooled to 20 degrees, the car (when in hot country mode) will achieve that target temperature in a quicker time than a car set in non hot country mode - whether that is 5 minutes quicker, or whatever...I don't know, but my car does seems to get cooler at a quicker rate than before I made the change. https://obdeleven.com/en/ is where you can buy the hardware device needed to connect to the diagnostic port

Manual You said when you unlock, the seat moves back, perfect. In theory when you close door and put on ignition it supposed to move forward to your memory position. I was wondering if your final seated position has been stored and paired to your key also?

I had the 150 TDi before I got the 190 TSi. The diesel was a good car with good mpg but you had to leave plenty of time when overtaking. By contrast when you put your foot down on the 190TSi it really shifts and you can feel a huge difference. It is also a much quieter car at high speeds. Just driven some long distances on the French autoroutes at 80mph all the way and returned 42mpg. Had I chosen to go a little more gently around 65mph I have no doubt that it would have achieved much better mpg.

1. You cant acurately measure how much youre putting in 2. Its illegal to work with refridgerents without proper training 3. The system may have a leak 4. You are not purging the system properly to remove moisture and air 5. By the time youve purchased everything its the price of a regas 6. You cant fill your car with pressure alone, needs to be weighed in 7. Just dont do it, take it to somewhere with an actual machine that will do a leak test (albeit a useless leak test 99% of the time) and top your car with the correct weight of gas Also, why does it need a refill, where has the gas gone?

Turning the ac down to 16° is only going to overwork the system, cause ice to form on the condenser/ evaporator causing restricted airflow so will never cool interior. Every car I’ve had with climate, including a previous Yeti and my current Kodiaq, I’ve set the temp to 19-20° ac on and auto selected and I’ve never been too cold in winter or too hot even in the current heatwave.

Problem solved guys, it was the Gear Shifter Clip.. its all good now..

My favourite package for my Cotswold / Cornwall fun run on the twisty narrow stuff. Petrol Ped a good reviewer imo

No idea... should probably check. Yes, was mechatronic ECU.

Nice, I only receive answer that there is no new info and that they will notify me when that changes 🤷‍♀️

I struggled to get 40mpg from mine (also a 4x4) and it could not pull the skin off a rice pudding, removing and declagging the throttle valve made a vast difference and I immediately gained 5-10mpg on the same regular journeys. Since then I have fitted an EGR emulator to prevent the build up of clag, had it remapped to a supposed 184hp and finally quite recently had the emissions fix rolled back, the latter has made the biggest difference of all and probably negates the need for the EGR emulator. Its hard to give an average MPG now as my journey profiles have changed so much and I am frequently doing 500 mile autoroute runs towing heavily (over)loaded trailers but even on them the economy has increased significantly, on 20km B road journeys where I initially struggled to exceed 40mpg I now get 55mpg all day long and often exceed 60mpg which I never thought I would get with a high flat fronted brick with a part time 4x4 system. The car had 79K miles on it when I declagged it, it has now done 113K, the emissions rollback has made a big difference to the MPG because (I believe) it is no longer wasting fuel doing frequent regens, before it would regen on calculated figures and ignore the actual readings (always very low thanks to no EGR) and passive regenerations, it was regenning every 120km but worst of all my 20 minute cross country commute was not quite long enough to warm up and complete so the fans were running every time i stopped and every journey tried another regen, and this straight after I had towed a massive heavy trailer for 500 miles & the measured soot was zero. I had the fix removed a few months ago and this week was the first time I heard the fans signifying a failed regen, it has done precisely 1000kms since the last one plus the few extra while it was trying, I have been regularly checking the kms since last regen using VCDS, now I am convinced that it regens after exactly 1000kms whether it needs it or not. I forgot to say that it is now almost as economical on short 4km return journeys into town and back as it is on a run.

After 15 months of waiting... Finally arrived Superb Sportline 206kw. Dad's family car

Camping? - I see no tents...

The Highway Code definition of coasting is and is based on the premise that the driver is in control of the gears and clutch, and hence in an emergency where acceleration is required may fail to react quickly enough to restore 'drive' Coasting with a DSG gearbox is a different situation since the car remains in gear and within milliseconds of the driver pressing the accelerator the TCU will re-engage the appropriate clutch and restore 'drive'. Another case of the Highway Code not keeping up with vehicle technology and/or being poorly written.