Leaderboard

Just rename her Sonia. She gets Sonia nerves.

Wow. I can’t believe that this thread is still going over a year after I started it… and there are people who placed their orders before I did that are still waiting. I really feel for all of you who are waiting, especially those who have been waiting for so long, and hope that your cars turn up soon - you have more patience than I do! These may be mad times that we’re living in - but there definitely seem to be a few orders that have been lost down the back of the couch, so to speak…

Very happy to oblige. The salesperson who sold me the car is on holiday but I contacted a sales colleague of his and I am going into the Skoda garage to see him this coming Wednesday. He says he believes the menu I was on has been knocked off course and he will put it back and show me how and will give me written instructions to use if it happened again. He also says he is confident this is not a fault and he can sort it. This sounds OK to me and i will see what actually happens on Wednesday. I will of course let you all on Briskoda know what happens and what had to be done to restore the status quo. Oh, to NTA. I would say I have read the handbook carefully, thats one of the very first things I do when I buy any car. Thanks to everyone who posted.

A couple more from yesterday's visit to Calke Abbey .........

Driver's only. I had similar issues in all my Skoda cars through the years since 2002. All caused by broken wires within the rubber bellows at driver's door. A bit of soldering and problems solved.

Wiring loom where it passes from pillar to the door? Common for broken wires in that location.

If you follow the flexible hose from your red circle up to the metal ones that cross the engine, you'll see it's the one nearest the front of the car and goes to the fuel filter, not the expansion tank.

Absol-frelling-lutely the first things to check are the alternator and the battery.

I might get mine remapped at some point, but at the same time there's plenty of power available with the 170 Back to the main subject of the topic - I've fixed it! Long story short: there was a broken wire immediately after the intermediary loom. Long story long: Access to the sensor would be much easier if it weren't for the AC unit. This is probably the only time I wished my car didn't have AC. All the rigid rubber AC pipes make removing the MAP sensor impossible without removing the boost pipe. Quite possibly the position of the MAP sensor and the boost pipe were designed first and the AC unit was designed later. The MAP sensor position on the later revisions of the engine (accessible by just removing the engine under-tray) makes much more sense. Here's my guide on how to access the MAP sensor on a CBBB engine: Remove the engine under-tray Remove the air intake housing (parts 17, 18, 20 and 21) - this will allow the removal of the radiator fan shroud Remove the radiator fan shroud. Undo the wire connector first, then the 4 bolts. Gently remove the fan shroud through the top of the engine Loosen the clips marked as red #1 and #2. Once those are loosened, you should be able to remove the rubber hose #3. It will be difficult, start with disconnecting from the part that clip #1 was holding, Putting it back on afterwards will be just as difficult Under the engine, loosen the clip 6 and disconnect the rubber hose from the plastic charge air pipe. Prepare a cloth as you might have a tiny bit of oil drip out. Under the engine, undo the plastic hose clip marked as the red #4. Under the engine, undo the screw (bolt) labelled as the red #5. The AC belt will be in the way somewhat. Confirm that this is a Torx T30 screw, this is very important for the next step. Under the engine, try to undo screw labelled as #6. This should also be a T30 screw, but it is very awkward to access and you will need a lot of strength to undo that screw. Make sure the T30 end is in the screw as much as possible, to reduce the risk of stripping the screw/bolt. You should now be able to gently remove the charge (boost) pipe under the engine, with the MAP sensor still attached. The loom should have just enough slack to allow you to pull the pipe out enough to disconnect the sensor. With the sensor disconnected, you can now either replace the sensor or do some continuity testing. Putting everything back together is pretty much in reverse order.

Hi guys, just thought I’d update this. I’ve now fixed it, it was the brake master cylinder. And also my door has decided it wants to work again now, so I’ve taken the door card off ready to change the lock when I have chance. Cheers, Kyle

It's the other way round, if you gently apply force, you're more likely to round a fixing than if you shock it. My normal method with sump plugs on vags is to put a ring spanner on, apply a tiny bit of pressure, then tap it round with a mallet.

my car is from a lease company 42 weeks from order only option I took was virtual cockpit. Sitting at suppliers from 26th have agreed to hang on to it and deliver september. working away a few weeks from next week then off a 2 week holiday. hopefully you get some good news soon

Having been piggy-backing on an Antipodean thread about a 1964 Skoda Octavia until now, I thought it only fair that I should start my own, and so I'll summarise what's happened with the car so far: I acquired the car in December 2020, from a guy in Kent, in whose family it had been since it was new. I bought it "sight unseen" and, while appreciating the risks this might involve, I had long conversations with the owner and felt comfortable with things, not least because the cars are so rare I'd be lucky to ever see another one! The car was delivered by transporter to a lock-up I'd rented in Whetstone, north London, exclusively for storing the car and I quickly realised what a great car I had! The boot was crammed with parts, the engine turned over happily and the bodywork looked pretty good. In addition, the previous owner handed me an ENORMOUS file, including the original bill of sale, numerous M.O.T.s and associated documents-brilliant! The boot contained the car's original number-plates, although the car sported a newer registration. The previous owner had already explained that the car had "slid off the radar" of the D.V.L.A. & so had received a new number. Fortunately I managed to re-register the car with its original number, with the assistance of the the Skoda Owners Club, and sort out another anomaly in the car's details at the same time-result! The entire process took less than a fortnight and, as this was over the Christmas and New Year festivities, I was most impressed with the speed of the service! All the engine needed was a battery & new plugs and I had it running in no time, albeit from a 5 litre can. Later I changed the fuel pump, to assist the fuel delivery, but there was (and still is!) a problem with the fuel line, but that's for another day! The car had no brakes at all, a fact of which I was aware, so progress up and down the road adjacent to the lock-up was, of necessity, limited. The intervention of more stringent Covid restrictions meant very little could be done for several months, and when I did have a chance to work on the car again, the starter motor had failed! To describe the removal of the starter motor from a Skoda Octavia as "difficult" would be an understatement of a magnitude unimaginable! Oddly, there's a trailer for a new series of "Bangers and Cash Restorations" on T.V. at the moment, in which a restoration mechanic says that it's possible to spend 4 hours just undoing one nut........I know how he feels! The starter is held in by two 17mm nuts, one of which it's just possible to get at, with the aid of extreme dexterity. The other one-forget it! The workshop manual says 2 specific spanners are needed and lists the part numbers......some hope! No-one had them, or had even heard of them. But this morning, I "bit the bullet" and e-v-e-n-t-u-a-l-l-y I removed it! I suspect the right-hand drive cars had several design problems, not least being the removal of said starter motor. I removed the gearbox link from the steering column, the metal heater pipe linking the front lower hose to the heater matrix, the vacuum pipe from the carburettor to the distributor and this allowed me to get a 17mm spanner onto the inner nut, between the engine block and the starter motor. I "cracked" it and, once cracked, the 17mm socket slowly shifted it & the starter came free..... Removing it from the engine bay meant unscrewing the 4 nuts holding the down pipe to the exhaust manifold, and, once shifted, I extracted the starter motor. By now it was 3pm on a sunny Saturday, so I adjourned to a "local hostelry" for several "cold ones". On Monday I'll take the starter to Unit Exchange in Borehamwood, for a refurbish.

I've driven an additional 30 km after the Range Left hit 0 km, with the needle on "empty". When I reached the petrol station - I put in 74L of fuel that day. I never fill up when the fuel warning light turns on. I always wait till the Range left is between 10 and 20 kms. Been doing that for the past 5 yrs with no issues and the fuel level gauge has always been "predictable". p.s. mine has the optional larger fuel tank (1Z2), which adds another 10-15L or so, to the standard 66L tank.

Fill it with good fuel, get in, enjoy Handsome beastie 😎 I throughly enjoyed having a vRS, and having another will still be on the options list when I next come to change car. Gaz

Yeah going to be hard without tool to read fault codes, as we can only apply best guesses. The fuse that went, was probably a warning that a wire was shorting, and it did its job. Start with the rubber grommet between door and body, carefully try to look for a broken wire. Maybe look online somewhere to purchase a cheap fault code reader that can scan / erase codes if possible?

If the door cannot communicate the actual lock status, then your blinkers cannot confirm either. If you have access to a fault code reader, you might have a short to earth or some such.

I responded over an hour ago with my thanks for the .pdf 👍🏻

@Jamie_B have you read the helpful private message that might have come from another member?

@wyx087Just looked at the model Y and it’s about the same price as an EV6 on PCP. That’s probably 50-60% more than the lease prices for the EV6 back when I ordered, but if I was ordering today there’s no way it’d be an EV6 over a Y for such similar pricing and shorter delivery times.

as soon as i saw "CTS" and "one from ECP" i had a feeling the next bit gonna be "its still not working". VAG engines have always been fussy about non oem engine sensors. i think the different thicknesses of metals in oem vs aftermarket can make enough of a change to the resistances the ecu expects to get that it just goes "fk that, its broken" i cant say if youve accidentally put the new one in the fuel sensor hole, but assuming you havnt, try unplugging it and see how the engine runs?

Looks like they missed to recover FEC/SWaP codes assignbed to your VIN

Current delivery estimate mid of next week #yay edit: month -> week

You need to find yourself a new mechanic that is competent and is able to diagnose a fault rather than look at a fault code and replace the part it mentions. The air quality sensor is exactly that, it allows the car to automatically control air re-circulation. If a highly contaminated atmosphere is detected it turns on recirc, simple as that. Yes they are common to fail, No you would never notice a difference if it was working or not. And 100% NO it is not the cause of the air conditioning not working. Sorry for being incredibly blunt with you (not about you) but as a diagnostic mechanic myself I am sick of seeing shoddy work carried out by others that rips people off and even worse doesnt fix the issues. Ive had many customers come to me after garages have charged them huge sums of money to not fix the issue and then end up coming to me to get it fixed properly. I hope this starts to point you in the right direction and welcome to the forum

Skoda Superb MK3 2.0TDI 190PS 4x4 Kombi Standard ride height front springs 5Q0411105GN https://www.autodoc.co.uk/car-parts/oem/5q0411105gn?search=OEN+5Q0411105GN&supplier[0]=85&supplier[1]=246&supplier[2]=253&supplier[3]=16&supplier[4]=32&supplier[5]=85&supplier[6]=246&supplier[7]=253&supplier[8]=16 Standard ride height rear springs 3Q0511115M https://www.autodoc.co.uk/car-parts/oem/3q0511115m?search=OEN+3Q0511115M&supplier[0]=16&supplier[1]=253&supplier[2]=85&supplier[3]=246&supplier[4]=32&supplier[5]=16&supplier[6]=253&supplier[7]=85&supplier[8]=246 Bilstein B4 22-232342 front shock absorbers https://www.autodoc.co.uk/bilstein/9266741 Bilstein B4 19-232362 rear shock absorbers https://www.autodoc.co.uk/bilstein/9129438 With the increased ride height suspension, you probably have 90mm front bump stops. Change these to 70mm front bump stops when using standard ride height springs, ie. OEM part number 1K0412303B. The bellows have OEM part number 5Q0413175C whatever the ride height. Front bump stop 70mm 1K0412303B Bellow for front shock absorber 5Q0413175C Skoda parts catalogue https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs/skoda/CZ/SUP/851/4/411/411000 TEDGUM TED58322 Dust Cover Kit, shock absorber (order 2 kits as this kit only includes 1 front bump stop and 1 bellow) https://www.autodoc.co.uk/tedgum/16711473 Rear shock absorber parts 5Q0513425J 5Q0511357H 10 5Q0513425J protective pipe 2 11 5Q0511357H Stop buffer 127mm 2 PR-1JA,UC7 https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs/skoda/CZ/SUP/851/5/511/511005

Welcome. How many miles have the ones you are looking at done, and how many miles a year will you be doing? Reliability should be much the same for a couple of hundred thousand miles with the correct servicing. Servicing costs will be pretty similar and it is fuel costs that will be different. What are you looking at Manuals or DSG,s?

They aren't massively expensive to buy new, genuine, so that might be the way to get an intact/complete/accurate pattern, albeit one that would need scanning somehow. There looks to be two different part numbers 5Q0615311D, or same with G at the end instead. I expect they are different to go with different disc sizes but not sure. There's also left/right part number diffs obviously, replace the last 1 with a 2 for RHS. e.g. Audi/Volkswagen Front Brake Disc Protection Plate Left N/S - Genuine Audi/Volkswagen 5Q0615311G - LLLParts approx £14 plus postage. This outlet tends to reflect RRP at dearerships reasonably closely. This page contains all the brake system info for 2015 octy LLLParts

There's a flap in there to prevent misfuelling and I guess your nozzle doesn't insert far enough to open it like a normal pump nozzle does.

The thing is that they could not really have been making much of a profit on them and the prices were becoming stupid but then the UK Government were very much involved in allowing that to happen by handing out tax payers money to have them costing what they did while throwing money the way of the car industry.

Thanks guys. I'll run through battery and charging checks. I do however know for a fact that the battery light does come on with ignition but upon engine start, turns off. I think I misread about the error code then.

At that many km, odds are the DPF is at the end of its life. Oil ash accumulates over a long time and cannot be burnt off. I guess depending on local laws if you delete or replace/clean.

Nice one. Looks like that stiff bit of convoluted conduit intended to protect those wires has had exactly the opposite effect at the point they exit from it!

We have a 2017 (June) 1.0 TSI (110 version), six speed and love it. Had the car from new and done about 45k miles. Most of our driving is rural/town and we get ~55mpg with ease. Motorway is similar unless.

For manual clutch no chance.

@JamieB Judging by the location, that might be the fuel temperature sensor you've circled in the photo above?? Hope it's not in the bin, and your collection day today...

With auto hold, and stop start, I also rarely go into neutral at lights as the car switches off, but wakes up with either an input from me, or if a car in front moves. I've never really got the 'delay' comments, as once you know how to play with the DSG's options, it shouldn't be a factor. Once the lights go green or a junction/roundabout clears, I'm off like a scalded cat. Auto hold does take a bit of getting used to, but three years on, I really like it now. Gaz

I’m not but I think the sales agent is Although I am typing Kw, I think my ipad is auto case “helping”…🤪

Hi guys, I’m the new owner of Skoda Superb 2016, 2.0 tdi, DSG. i am happy to be here in this community

Do you still have the sensor you took out of that location, and if so does it have a part number on it anywhere? What colours are the wires going to the connector? Seems like that might be neither of g62/g83.

Well done.

The aftermarket CTS are renowned for not being very good… worse than the OE ones, which TBH aren’t great.

Maiden voyage for the Freego Eagle today with Sally riding it and me on my Whyte Coniston. She went around the Cut De Sac first to get used to it, then we were off. The LCD display is a generic one across several bikes, and the different setting numbers P1 to P20 don't mean anything until you watch explanatory videos on YT, which were really helpful. It's only by watching a video that I could even work out how to change it from Kph to Mph. It's now clear that the bike isn't restricted (although can be), and on power level 5 I'm completely unable to keep up with Sally 🙄 We got to about 18mph and as I bogged down into the headwind, she simply sailed away, Mr Bean stylee. We'll be keeping it, whether it end up her's or mine, albeit if Sally has it she'll need another saddle as she's problems with her coccyx and the one the bike came with isn't particularly comfy for her. Gaz

The VRS comes with the Dynamic LED Headlights and taillights 😀

When I speak to friends about 'emission-free' motoring, I usually add 'at the point of use'. According to Octopus Energy, so far this month our 100% green electricity has meant 64kg less CO2 emissions, equivalent to the amount 32 trees absorb in a year. Isn't it clever that they can supply green energy on the same cables as all my neighbours using other suppliers.

I wonder if he just needs to press the button on his MFSW to swap centre screen from Nav/Radio/Speed display?

Sometimes with the passage of time it becomes apparent that there were some really good cars that were under-appreciated and they are worth getting, this is happening with EV's as it has with ICE vehicles. Sometimes it is too late as others have sussed how good so there are not cheap to get. The 28kW battery Ioniq is like that, also BMW i3's & especially range extender ones, Mii electrics (also some Citigo iV without charging issues or e-Up's) & Renault Zoe's are pretty much a sure thing as a car worth having as a keeper IMO.

Personally I wouldn't go with PCP or a Lease with a bargepole - but that's just me I guess as I don't like 'buying' stuff I can't afford there and then. Also I'd be very wary of the deals the Sheffield Skoda dealer are pushing given past experience of their sales techniques... but then maybe that's just me who's had bad experiences and chosen to go elsewhere.

Or go to @Tech1e's uploads...

It can be a handy way to change temperature, turn on heated seats etc. but it was triggered by things playing on the stereo more often than by me so I just turned it off too. besides, the shortcut button on the steering wheel is better anyway. You can also long press it to trigger Siri or google assistants.