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It's always fun taking pictures next to modern small cars.

Vacation mode on, she is resting after long journey 😁

So many things I could pick out of this video.... Specialist EV brake fluid - no its just DOT 4 More expensive than servicing a normal car - No its £170 at his prices every 4 years... £42 a year Locking out the HV system - He only states hes working near the system, not had to disconnect any components or work on any HV components so there should be NO need to disconnect the service loop, Youre 'working' near the HV system when you drive the car, its no different, a safe system shouldnt need locking out to touch any of the components externally or even work near them. Specific to the Zoe, which everyone knows has 2 problems, its a renault, and its a zoe. At 4 years brake fluid is still testing okay so could go even longer. 45 minutes to lock the EV system out - takes all of 5 minutes to disconnect the battery, lift the plate and pull the service fuse 30/40 minutes doing the standard brake bleed - a decent bleeder will do it all in 10/15 mins max if youre pulling a full litre I get they have to charge standard labor times opposed to how fast they work but dont make a video saying things take this long - say the book time is X amount... Now if we are gonna talk about true costs of a EV excluding the main HV battery. Then there are a few main things to consider - Brakes will not wear out nearly as much BUT they will need changing just as much due to corrosion and build up from not being used due to dynamic regen braking. There is occasionally a air filter for the HV battery cooling depending on setup, not generally expensive either. And a pollen filter. Tyres can often be a bit more expensive as there is no engine noise the tyre noise is a lot more apparent so foam filled tyres can sometimes be used. Basically, the EV servicing costs on the whole are cheaper than a standard combustion engine car. -Hybrid trained tech

It would be in the best interests of the OP to return to the thread with Engine Code and all other questions answered. @Warrior193 just a single vacuum line down will stop turbo from working, and the turbo actuator (external) that controls the vanes also could be stuck in one position, making it run like a bag of spanners. I've had a vacuum line left off by mechanic in the past, and and turbo actuator fail (diaphragm splits)

To be fair if it's a Mark 1 1.9 TDI then it's a PD100 and probably an ATD, whilst turbo failure is less common on the PD100 it's not unheard of and a reconditioned unit would be the way forward to minimise costs.

It's done. 😁 That video was perfect and made that bit extremely easy to sort out. I was so chuffed that he'd made the vid that I sought out a phone number for him and called to thank him. Some free publicity to add to the video link: web address - dutchbikeshop.co.uk, Tel: 01903 730089, based Littlehampton, Sussex. He will be getting any future business to do with this bike for sure. Took me a while to figure out putting back and adjusting some of the other bits like the chain tensioner/wheel centraliser bits, and the flipping 3-piece plastic chainguard. It is a 7-speed version as yours above Lee. A few photos of the closing stages.

Does your dealer have a collection service, why not play along and book it in if they will collect and then give them your new address miles away. Then point out you told them months ago you had moved.

So many more detials are required - Who has told you the turbo has failed, how have they diagnosed it, what are the symptoms? If youre gonna replace a turbo, youll want a garage to change it and 99% of garages will supply the turbo and fitting a second hand one, youll struggle to find a garage willing to do it, or at least they wont warrant it. Its also not as simple as replace the turbo, you need to find out what has failed and the reason, else it will just happen again.

The selector might not have engaged Drive correctly and been in N. Watch for it again, they can have a brain fart. Maybe better that you Select N and put on the e-Brake if you do not want to just use auto hold with it in D or have Stop / Start enabled.

The McMurty mini Batmobile. What a weapon! Fantastic small size and apparently under 1,000kg. 2+ tonnes of downforce. It also goes like, well, nothing I've seen recently. Its small size at Goodwood has been an absolute advantage, as has the amazing, committed drive by the two racers that share duties in it. Max Chilton drives it tomorrow in the hill climb and today, Alex Summers became the second fastest man up the hill. I can't find the run from today - yet, but it's worth looking for as it will become available soon. Yesterdays run is below (unfortunately you can't see the fan assisted start, it's simply nuts). Also note the cameraperson is confused at the speed of the thing at the top of the hill!

Sorry dunc it’s kind of an in joke they are all great cars 😀

Dodgy but not totally broken engine earth or battery connector?

Found out what was causing it, it’s a setting called learn, it was on. once I turned it off no more distortion.

Vroom, many thanks for the diagrams, very helpful. The usb socket is item 5 on the rain sensor, road camera version. Using the NextBase lining tool I was able to remove the covers around the mirror stalk and ease the large cover over the camera. I was then able to re-site the usb-c socket using a small screwdriver, this was rubber covered and held by friction in a housing in the camera cover. Lesson learned: do not buy cheap cables off Amazon, the usb-c connector seemed too small and lacked the internal springy guides that centre the plug over the blade in the socket.

I bought a soft toothbrush and it did the job 😁

At Bluewater after a full service and clean. Off to the Lake District tomorrow

With the high prices, if servicing become that expensive along with high running costs nobody will bother. manufacturers need to hammer dealers who do that by offering a collect and return service direct. I see Tesla do 👍

@jamessharr @varooom Maybe the type of the turbo, since that may not be original?

I am out at the moment but I will get the engine code when i get home, the car is in the garage the mechanic said the turbo is definitely knackered, the shaft has collapses and the bearings gone, hes a very reliable mechanic I can trust I've used him loads of times before, always goes that extra mile

As an aside, it'll be worthwhile checking that your breather system isn't blocked somewhere causing excess pressure in the crankcase, leading to this leakage. If there is such a blockage or malfunction, other leaks will probably appear if not sorted. There's no obvious (to me) other reason why an undisturbed o-ring should start leaking in a low pressure application like this. I suppose if the sensor has been changed at some point, and the o-ring not changed with it, that would be an unsurprising cause of the leak.

You can change it in the infotainment menu if I remember correctly.

This is definitely a fault which probably lies with the SOS and e-sim module. The errors do tend to be location specific. My modules were finally replaced and no errors since, and that included many journeys where the fault consistently set off the SOS error. Skoda probably have a serious shortage of electronic components so will probably kick this down the road some more. Get in touch with skoda technical via their website and formally lodge a complaint about this issue as well as the dealer who is giving you the run around. It took me a lot of perseverance including along the garage for all my money back as the car was not only not for for purpose but failed to meet the EU regs for having a working SOS module.

erWin Skoda, you can download the PDF files, which you can then print off page(s) as needed. Price of 2 beers, not too bad really (get VIN to hand)

Damn !!!!, stop it Dean 😁 dont know what you mean cough cough.

Hi all. I've just joined with, as you may have guessed, a problem to resolve. I'll post this under the appropriate heading, which for me is the Yeti. Meanwhile, I'll introduce myself. I'm Martin, lover of vintage machinery, in particular World War Two aircraft, and steam trains. I make models, and bought my car as a means of towing a trailer with my model railway in it to exhibitions. Love the car. Excellent towing unit, Nice to drive and economical.

I've brought no.395 the other day got some tidying up to do round the sills but I'll get some photos up soon (in Herefordshire)

But it certainly would pay to get a reliable diagnosis of the fault. Could it be possible it's something simple like a blown hose?

Spotted the Heron scoping fishing opportunities the other night........ 00051.mp4

I have 0253 on mine and it's fine. I can move sound to any of the 4 speaker's in isolation, and each has equal loudness. Bass and treble are all correct.

Is this to replace the one that’s on there? Anything wrong with the original? I’ll also keep a look out for any vRS estate that are breaking for you.

You need the dealer to configure part of it for you. I had to give them photo ID, my VIN and email address used in the app. Afterwards everything worked OK including remote lock/unlock and car positioning. Johh

I don't think so; that seems to have been there a while.

All the ngk plugs I have replaced on vw and skoda over last 10 years are a flat washer gasket design. You can use the torque spec but equally on the plug packaging you will find the rule of thumb regards tightening after bottoming. Look at the instructions on the plug packet. If you have the mfr service guide and a torque wrench by all means use that. And when working on cars or any other me mechanical device you have to pay attention to the type of fastener you're dealing with. A torque wrench for example doesn't stop you cross threading. If I am following a rule of thumb I'd also be judicious if it felt too tight. For example: NGK 1675 PFR7S8EG Laser Platinum Spark Plug Thread Diameter14mm Thread Pitch1.25mm Seat TypeGasket Reach19mm (3/4") Hex Size5/8" (16mm) Terminal TypeSolid Overall HeightISO Gap.031" (0.8mm)

The Skoda emblem is from Kopacek, yes. The VRS one I bought from Benny's EmblemDesign (Facebook page). He takes original ebmlems and custom paint them. They are not cheap but it's top quality.

My first experience

Ducks in a row: Gaz

720 is being broken on Stockton https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/746282866626490/?ref=facebook_story_share

It's supposed to be delivered begining of september (in 3-4 weeks) instead of mid-may

The manual for my MY2019 gives the following. Hope this helps and is relevant. Driving abroad When driving in countries with opposing traffic system (traffic on the left/right), headlights may dazzle oncoming traffic. Therefore, the LEDFront headlight setting must be adapted by turning on travel mode in infotainment in the  /  →  → Light menu. In this mode, there is no automatic adjustment of the light beam in front of the vehicle.

Having run both NGK and denso I found the denso to be a better reactive plug and the engine did behave better with them but lasted far less time than the NGK if you replace them every year each are as good as one another in honesty! On standard coil packs I recommend a gap of 0.6 mm to make up for the weak coil but on R8 coil packs you can get away with a 0.8mm gap as they are more powerful

25nm is correct for CAXA

Thank you very much @MartiniB! I've bought S/S memory module for VW Passat B8 thinking it is the same (connectore looks same), because it was offered much cheaper. But i't didn't work with my Superb MK3. I removed the heatshrink in the middle of cable and the PCB looked exactly the same as yours, so I only swapped the pins in the connectors according to this pinout and it works like charm! (my cables are all black, excecpt theese that goes through the PCB, they are yellow - red - white instead gray - purple - white).

Happy for the first service for the Zoe at £99, incl VAT. Clio TCE 0.9, only 3 cylinders, needs to go in for a B service so plugs change and air filter as well as oil and filter, £257, hmm. Running cost so far in 8k miles about £100 cost of electricity. Overall running cost then pretty damn low. PCP payment £288 a month. Cheap motoring. Works car allowance 9k a year before tax. Shame my company does not do EV salary sacrifice. Oh and Skoda Fabia just cost me £750 for cambelt, thermostat and water-pump replacing, thank God it is zero tax and 75 mpg else that would be going out for sale.

Today is exactly 1 year since we placed the order and production has been (finally) confirmed! Supposed to be delivered at the beginning of september (3,5 month delay)

@Breezy_Pete I only saw this post by chance. I wish I'd seen it earlier (I had to join this forum to reply, couldn't work out why I couldn't reply at first). I encountered the same problem a couple of years ago after moving to Germany and getting a bike that had been in storage since 1998. Given the age of the inner tube and tyres (over 22 years) I decided to replace both front and back. All I can say is it was a complete PIT (fing) A. Some swearing involved and some needle nose mole grips to hold a cable and lining up of dots IIRC. I wish I'd made notes now I just notice your gears are external.

put up some photos of the entire thing when its done Pete, could end up handy for someone along the way

Hi everyone, just a quick update, neuspeed rear arb fitted, wheels refurbished and Michelin Pilot 4s fitted, stage 1 remap now done. New fuel pump and filter fitted, new alternator also same week! Only things on list now detail whole car again and tweak to hifi. It’s getting there now the old girl done good for me despite all the **** going on with everything’ I’m loving this car it’s now transformed and is a fun chariot! hope everyone is well, enjoy your motors cheers Jules

May be this guide deserves being pinned on the fisrt page of this forum. 😉 Additionallly I’d like to insert a link in other model forums (Octi 2, Yeti, Kodiaq) since they may also be DSG6 equipped, but I don’t really know what would be the best way to do it. If any moderator has a solution, feel free!

I can vouch for the EIbach springs & H&R arb combo working wonders on the car. Currently in Sport mode it's quite good actually and I would imagine it's only a small percentage of drivers looking after yet more improvement than the springs and arb bring, especially on a Sportline DCC which i believe has a slightly firmer setting than the L&K. However as I come from cars with tight handling that I was dailying and tracking at the same time I sometimes crave even further improvement without ruining the drive-ability of-course and this is exactly where the B6 would come in based on what I've read about them. I'm thinking Normal mode would become the ideal one, slightly on the firm side but not uncomfortable similar to current Sport mode but better. If next spring-summer find me still with this car then it will most probably be a mod that I will realize. Well yes but It's still 900EUR for which I have tons of better uses than just to be able to adjust the ride height (how often would I need to do that anyway? I'm not tracking this car to worry about going ultra low).Plus for me having got the springs already the difference is closer to 1100EUR in reality. But even mort important, everything I've read suggests the B6's damping is more than up to the job so I don't feel as If I would be doing any compromise if going with them and the extra cost of the KW does not provide any obvious benefit for me. As @MartiniBwrote, the rear shock's part number for the 272 4x4 is different to the one you posted so beware when placing the order, cross-check with Bilstein's online catalog here: BILSTEIN online catalog

Some versions may need removal of the caliper carrier to allow the disc to be removed. The 272mm disc for example. On our Yeti that needed a 14mm XZN spline tool (AKA triple square)