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Flocking baaa-stew-ards!

Have had confirmation that I should be able to pick mine up in the next week, which is a nice bonus. Just around 13 months wait.

Hello! Today I was told that my car has a confirmed build date. At last. Week 37 2022, so just two weeks away. It's a hatchback 1.5 TSI MHEV Sport (Tow bar, travel assist low, heated front seats, rear USB connectors, spare wheel). I ordered it on 29/06/21 in Spain. Cheers

Thanks Warrior got it opened

Mutton stew for dinner tonight?

If you have a ctek that will charge via the cigarette lighter or any charger that will do 12V supply it'll open. Otherwise you need to bend the lever around the door. It's a stupid design feature of the RHD conversion sadly.

Congrats. As you are not in the spreadsheet , can you share more details about what you ordered?

Maybe some lucky ones get the car after six months, but the majority of us after at LEAST 14 months.😀 Referring to the removal of additional equipment: it seems to me that all extra or "not so necessary equipment" for car operations, which include cable harnesses or chips to be built in, is eliminated by the car manufacturer by the trade-off principle. Those cable harnesses are used instead in the production of the regular, standardised car versions or where possible, in the EV versions. When the resources (inputs) are scarce, they prioritise their use, based on their profitability targets. And due to the increase in prices of inputs (inflation); materials, energy, workforce etc. and the scarcity and setbacks in the supply chains: they cut out some extra equipment options and, on the other side, increased the end (market) prices of new cars. All the point here is the profitability of the Skoda company, not individual orders. The most probably institutional orders (such as from police) are a priority due to mass order and delivery requirements stipulated in the purchase contracts. In contrast, the individual orders, as discussed in this thread before; the cars with higher profit margins go into the production sooner than the others (the ones with a waiting period of over 12 months for a build date).

thanks guys.. esp.the suggestion of breaking a window !! however a local car locksmiths have sorted it by just picking the lock with a tool,£50. Makes you realise even deadlocked how insecure your car is ! I have now in the meantime ordered a spare key.

I came across this article on the CZ forum: https://www.garaz.cz/clanek/servis-nakup-auta-zjistovali-jsme-jak-dlouho-se-ceka-na-nejoblibenejsi-auta-v-cr-nekde-par-mesicu-jinde-i-rok-a-pul-21008805 They also say that delivery times depend also on the annual sales quotas of individual dealers. I guess it’s one of the aspects we haven’t mentioned much. Well as long as the Slovenian police force got plenty of them, the rest can wait indefinitely… I’m really getting tired of this waiting, my mother-in-law even more so as I am currently using her car to drive to work… I know I should be near now, but can’t stay positive with all the current experience. I also said I would restrain myself from checking the app - but had to check yesterday evening and guess what - yep, 😞. And yesterday while driving home, 2 white Octys right in front of me, going in the same direction for quite a while, I mean c’mon, stop teasing me 🤬 Sorry about the whine guys, not one of my best days 😞

Thank you everyone. I happened to drive near a dealership this afternoon and the technicians were really helpful. Should be 36 and they checked them all for me. And yes the sticker is definitely missing!

If you fit a non-AGM/EFB battery you should disconnect the battery monitor signal connector from the battery negative post. The alternator should then revert to a fixed voltage output that should be OK for a conventional 'wet' battery. No

Thanks cheezie gotvit

Omg, 324 pages on the Croatian forum 😳 I guess it’s everything Octy mk4 related, not only delivery times.

Hello Bri, welcome to the forum. By reaching over from the drivers side, carefully pull (bend) the hood release towards the centre of the car until it clears the passenger door enough to move the lever rearwards. Another way is to plug a 12 volt supply into the 12 volt socket (take care with polarity - centre contact is positive +) this will power up the central locking.

as you know i waited 14 months and 6 days,so your must be just around the corner for delivery.good luck hope you get it very soon.

Worries me that the locksmith didn't ask any questions to be honest. They are suppossed to confirm identiy of the person before providing entry to anything locked.

3rd row in the pic below is for the 235/45 R18 tyres.

Myeah, that 14 months is quite laughable. I was looking at the recent configurator here in Finland - they've removed quite a bit of options available for order. Some things I noted which were previously available with 1.5 TSI were: - Park Assist 3.0 (been not available for a while) - Rear seats 220V socket (why?!) - Electrically adjustable seats - Canton (also N/A for a while) At the same time prices have increased quite a bit - approx +2K for my configuration without some of the options since they are now N/A.

So a 1.5 TSI / DSG. Best not guess what someone sets your pressures at and then take loved and cherished ones out in your car. Check tyre pressures. Now that you will know what they should be at.

Yeah... I pulled them out and put in LEDs, granted I think they have slightly less light output but I just cannot have it look like this, my brain will not let me lol

I would recommend sticking with the AGM, and make sure the Ah rating and CCA are same or better. Sadly you will need to code the battery so that the car knows how to charge it.

I've used ACF50 for a while on motorcycles for keeping exposed areas of metal corrosion free and at the time my 10 year old Triumph would be cleaned each spring and look brand new, except for a couple of bolt heads that had started rusting under a previous owners care.

yep, precisely that behaviour... It might happen that just before parking the car I drive through a patch of slushy snow, that will deposit a thin layer of water on the slightly warm rear brake-disks. The parking brake will apply the rear brake-pads on that water layer that will freeze once the temperature goes down (we do occasionally go well below -10 Celsius). Good-luck releasing the parking brake in such conditions... It finally does, with a loud "bang" after you try to pull away and after the rear suspension compresses... I hope you manage to find a decent Skoda-service to identify the problem (if you're the same @akon I saw on the Romanian forum), it's hard to find good mechanics around here, and even harder those who would do their best to help the customer... Try to reproduce yourself the fault, and do check if the brake pedal becomes hard in a couple of minutes, or if it needs several hours for the system to loose the vacuum. This way you can tell them exactly how to go into faulty-mode. In my case it needed at least 6-8 hours.

+1 I also switched it off during winter, especially when very low temps were expected. I don't have my Octavia delivered yet, but for sure it's not normal behavior.

There is a Service campaign 46G7 TPI 2046745/9 for VW that might be affecting you (remember they do share parts "bin") regarding faults with the EPB On vehicles with electronic parking brake PR No. UH2 and a manual gearbox of a certain production period in rare cases the vehicle cannot always be automatically stopped when using Auto Hold. You need to get a list of your PR codes, you may have a partial list in your boot or service book, look for the above PR code.

I was 15 months and delivery was 8 August

Czech: https://forum.skodahome.cz/topic/157274-dlzka-dodania-novej-octavie/page/42/#comments Croatian: https://www.forum.hr/showthread.php?t=1170967&page=324 German: https://www.skodacommunity.de/threads/bestell-thread.130486/page-706

Are you kidding me? If by any reason the electric handbrake isn't working? I added this question because this is a strange behavior of this car and I never saw this till now( I drove probably more than 100 manual cars , on different brands) . Please don't try to be 'smart' and help if it's possible, if no, just skip. Thx

Thought I'd tidy this up with an updated list. 5 non-vRS models: CE07 FUG GK06 TGO JM05 APM WJ06 PVL WV05 HWD 23 vRS models: CN06 WUY EJ05 DGY EJ54 KAA ET06 GOA GJ54 HLK KM06 ZTY LN04 AVJ LV04 UNL MA54 UYX MT55 MZX OE55 JUX OE55 LSZ OE56 CMZ PL05 VUG RA55 KWL VN05 FZJ VO06 HHB WG55 WYC WU54 HJA YK04 ZEX YT55 MPX YT55 MRX ??56 ??? - Yellow. First reg 17/11/2006. I have a copy of the ebay advert at the time, but unfortunately not the pictures. I know it's different from the other 56 reg yellow vRS as it's a different first reg date. Pics to follow.

I've considered doing the front wheel arches from the inside, potentially adding some mass to the footwell floor as well. I'd like to do two layers with butyl mats under and for example 6mm closed cell foam on top, but I don't know if the carpet has enough play for the foam to fit. Not sure how the footwell trim comes off yet, I'll have to read the manual and have a look.

I’ve not had any trouble with my 2016 Euro 6 Octavia with exception of fuel pressure sensor. If I was in your boots, I’d go with better the devil you know especially with the current cost of living crisis. Obviously if you Scout does throw a big bill, then you’ve got to look at it objectively. Mk3 Scouts do go for decent money.

Looking at the image you posted, it definitely looks like a factory setup. If you haven't got a maxidot MFD menu to access the car's settings and adjust the volume, you might need to adjust it with Carista, VCDS or similar diagnostic tool.

Hi I checked the oil level yesterday having driven for about 20 miles and leaving the car for 5 minutes for the oil to drain back to the sump - it was almost at the upper end of the 'Hatched' area of the dip-stick. The oil used was C5 VW 0w20 (Miller Oils XF Premium fully synthetic). Thanks Alan

Here are the possible choices for Superb III up to MY20 for 18" wheels. Superb III Tyre pressures up to MY20.pdf

OTOH I don't know anyone who's got more than 4 years out of a stop/start battery, and 3 years is much more typical.

Are you going to do wheel arches? It seems that in Octavia tire noise is the biggest contributor to general noise level. It's not nearly as bad as in Leon (both 5F and latest one), but still it is something to improve.

Thanks, This method also works for MIB2.5 (which I have on my other car, Passat B8 YM2016). Unfortunately, in my Superb, YM2021, which has MIB3, reading the radio stations logos from SD/USB device, is no longer available... 😞

By all means get it tested but the guarantee isn't that the driver will keep the battery charged enough for it not to fail because it's been drained, there will be conditions of use expected (and expressed no doubt in T&CS) Sorry Graham but you've got to have some fun, just imagine if you breakdown on the way there with battery (well driver's) failure. 😄 And I hope you're not going for the Chancellor's job. 😄 (As you're getting the battery maths wrong.) Just having fun with you - charge the battery on the car if you want, that's fine but charge the battery rather than just relying on driving it to get the battery back, you only need 12.4v if you want. Just read (yeah sorry read) the Owner's Manual (or wotever it's called for your model) and use an appropriate charger (not a booster charger). Or just leave it until next week and see how it goes. Did you used to own a BMW? - sorry couldn't resist, just having fun 😁

Substantially cheaper, but I need to see what happens over the next few weeks.

Just for info - if you ever want to save virtual ink, and screen space you can shorten the link to end with the full eBay item number. i.e. - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/114341271121

Ive gone through and picked out all the ones which are classed as extras or near enough 1D4 E AHV Tow bar, swiveling 1G4 P RER Steel temporary spare wheel 1X1 L ATA Four-wheel drive 1Y3 L DIF Electronic differential lock XDS, dynamic traction support 2H4 L CHA "DRIVING MODE SELECT" and "DYNAMIC CHASSIS CONTROL" 3L4 L SIE Power seats in front, driver seat with memory feature 3LE L TSV Garbage bin 3Y4 E SSR Mechanical roller sun visor for rear side windows 4A4 L SIH Heated front and rear seats 4H5 L KDS Power-operated child safety lock 4I3 L TKV Central locking system Keyless Entry without SAFELOCK 6K3 L AWV Forward collision warning incl. autonomous emergency braking, for adaptive cruise control "low" 7UG L NAV Navi Columbus 7W2 L ESI "CREW PROTECT ASSIST" - with extended safety system(Pre-Crash Basic and Front) 7X5 L EPH Park assist 7Y9 L SPU "LANE ASSIST" and "BLIND SPOT DETECT" 8G3 L LIA Advanced high-beam control 8M1 L HEW Rear window wiper "AERO" 8Q5 L LWR Dynamic headlight range control, with cornering light (AFS 1) 8T7 L GRA Adaptive cruise control (without "followto-stop") and speed limiter 9M9 L ZUH Parking heater with radio remote control 9T1 L BWD Heated windscreen washer nozzles 9VS L LSE Sound package "branded" 9WX L AUD "SMART LINK+" plus Wireless RSE "App" 9Z3 L BTR 230-V inverter and outlet for Europe KA2 L KSU "REAR VIEW CAMERA MID" KH7 L HKA Climatronic (3-zone) with air conditioning control panel in rear N0K L SIB Seat trim covers in leather QK1 L KAS With multifunction camera QR9 L KMP With dynamic road sign display QV3 L TVE DAB - Digital radio reception UK3 L VRH Remote folding of rear backrest from luggage compartment Seems like a pretty high spec vehicle with some fairly decent extras.

Nothing in the rear door cards. Judging from and comparing with the front doors, retrofitting would be difficult if not impossible. There are just too many permanently fixed points that have to come apart for that, unfortunately.

I've done ecs tuning uprated top mounts,febi bilstein bearings and meyle HD drop links in the past year on the front of mine and the knocking has still come back. . Like the OP has said it's slow moving manoeuvres that cause it. . Normal turns are fine. Mine is like a click like it's got square bearings in the top mounts, for now I'm just putting up with it as it's unnoticeable 95% of the time. As for the "Has anyone has this one before? " . . I've looked on various forums and any and every MQB chassis car seems to have crappy suspension woes

2 years / 20,000 mil with Skoda UK, that used to be at a Major Service when it was Minor / Major Servicing Fixed or Major / Major Variable.

Had mine updated by dealer this week to 1896 as gave up waiting for an OTA update to be done. Was done without issues. Too soon to notice if it has fixed the ACC bug which was the main issue I was having but hopefully it will be sorted now.

I love the look of the new FL5. They have toned down the styling, it’s a bit less “in your face” and the aero q’s serve a purpose. Nice. Still not keen on the triple exhaust though and much prefer those on the FK2. Would still take this over a Golf R.

Some great info here about the self-learning which makes coding just a 'speeds up the process' thing: ⊳ Registering the battery - How to do it properly ❘ Banner know-how (bannerbatterien.com) An 'executive summary' type quote from that page: Conclusion: Purchasing and BEM coding an original replacement battery instead of a replacement battery from the independent aftermarket –– which does not have BEM coding –– only has the short-term advantage that the complete functionality of all systems is immediately available. Please note: The battery reaches this functionality without BEM code, usually also after some time and various „trigger events“ (impulses, signals e.g. starts, cold starts, cycles). [My emphasis/greening, their original red words]