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Man, I was so nervous yesterday evening and this morning, could hardly sleep, mentally preparing myself for arguing because of missing blind spot detection - but it’s all good, it’s there 😊 looks 😍, will have a hard time waiting now until Wednesday (you’ll say what is 4-5 days compared to 14 months, but still 😁). Here’s a little preview:

The Moon and Jupiter.

I picked up mine as planned, today around noon. Overall pleasantly impressed, even found 2 extra-options I had no idea about: one is the front parking sensors and the other are the pockets on the back of the front seats (including the small pockets for the phones of back passengers). Both were optional for Style trim in Romania when I placed the order, I didn't ask for either... Front sensors however were part of the ParkAssist which I removed from options sometime along the waiting time. I also have the Skoda logo projector under the front door - those are apparently standard for Style trim, or so the dealer mentioned. One important minus I noticed during the short ~60km trip today: there's a small cricket making noises from time to time (depending on road texture) somewhere in front of me, behind the wheel. It seems to be the shiny bit of trim on the dashboard, between the steering-wheel and left door - I pressed a bit harder on it and the creak stopped. ☹️ I confess I'm a bit obsessed with random noises inside the car; especially since it's really quiet inside - it could be due to the soundproof front-side windows I included as option. L.E. Oh, I remembered to check what @Jettamc22 was asking on the previous page. So, if yo want to see the gear number, simply flick the DSG-changer from D to S; on S it will continuously show the #gear. For my taste it's almost mandatory, because I found the car was cruising in town at around 60 km/h with ~1.200rpm (that's not great for the cat-converter and for the FAP). Once in S, it immediately shifted 1 gear down, with no other input from me on the gas pedal. The second way to see your gear number is to use the shifting-pads behind the steering-wheel; the DSG will go into Manual mode and you'll see the #gear. However, it doesn't automatically go back to Automatic mode after a while. You have to pull back on the DSG-changer and it will come back to Auto - the last mode that was used, either D or S...

100% working PTC heater installed in a Fabia 1.4 TDI, fitted and working as it would be from the factory! Video - Copy.mov Off camera I'm turning the temperature dial from maximum to Minimum, in VCDS you can see that when the Dial is at Maximum, only the one "1" is shown on the second row, and the heating elements start to come on (third row). When I turn the dial down to minimum, a second "1" appears. That is the inhibit signal from the HVAC controller, and the heating elements immediately switch off.

I did my usual return trip of 320 miles in an efficient diesel instead of my EV. 115ps 2.0 TDI 7 speed DSG 21 plate Golf. I enjoyed it very much. Missed heated seat and steering wheel and physical buttons. 80 miles of 60 MPH limit roads getting 70 mpg average plus displayed & 240 miles motorway getting 60 + mpg displayed. I used 23 litres brim to brim. 5 gallons, so an average 64 mpg.. 177.9 pence a litre. ****cost £41. **** Usually with just paying for a 30 minute charge at Edinburgh airport it cost me about £7. Other charges are free, before i head off, then first charge after 65 miles then after 90 miles then the Edinburgh charge after 99 miles home. Then free charging gets done. That is lots of charging time on sometimes hopelessly slow chargers. But if i was paying 35 pence a kWh and getting 3.1 miles per kWh which i would in this weather that would be 103 kWh so ****£36.13.**** At least 90 mins charge time needed, often much more. @ 50 pence a kWh then £51.50. 69 pence a kWh then £71.07 £1 a kWh £103. That would be crazy. Average speed showing is odd as @ NSL's with only a few miles in total through 30 mph villages. Yesterday when showing 80 mpg plus for about 10 miles after filling up the range was showing 620 miles.

I saw my car today before the handover on Wed and I was looking for an orange light but found black. My heart sank a bit, thought my worst fear had come true and it’s really missing, but hey, silly me, it only lights up orange when someone is in the spot 😁😊

Just a update for yous crank sensor was changed no problems since

Aye, the nights are fair drawin' in....🏴󠁧󠁢󠁳󠁣󠁴󠁿

A few from today's visit to Attenborough nature reserve - I reckon they may have lost a digger!

I'm awaiting my first auto DSG PHEV having driven manuals all my life. I have had autos as hire cars and had one this week. I'm old school in that I've always used engine braking even though that is not taught anymore. It being chaper to replace brakes than a clutch. On my journey I automatically pushed for the clutch when approching a junction to loose pace and braked hard. Nothing behing so no drama this time. Any tips on driving and auto please. What sequence should I activate functios as it was always engage clutch, apply handbrake, remove from gear and turn off indicator if being used. When waiting in traffic or at the lights should I engauge the paring brake before or after I go to neutral rathe rthan sit with my foot in trhe break? Alos how do I correctly use the flappy paddles and when? Perhaps i need to book a couple of drving lessons to improve my technique. I am not the best driver in the world. Given there are no stpuid questions I thought I'd pull on the collective knowledge to improve my technique. Cherrs for any responses. BRS

A few from Coughton Court and Baddesley Clinton earlier today.......

Hey everybody, I'm glad to read about all these update posts since I last came on here! I know the wait has been unbearable for most of us (I'm in my 14th month of waiting now). So, this week I received a call from my dealership, and—if all goes well—I'm getting my vRS this month! They'll update me on this in the coming weeks; but I still can't believe that this is actually happening, as I was already preparing myself mentally for a late 23' delivery. Here's hoping that no further **** goes down! 😅

You might also try speaking to Ant on 07979723977. He is in Tipton, West Midlands and has received good reviews for his Amundsen2 screen repairs.

Nta16 is the clown don't reply anymore,,

Congratulations to both of you and hope you have many many great miles ahead

I do not think that the VW Group make water pumps. Maybe someone knows better. They are pretty poor at purchasing parts of many kinds for millions of vehicles. It seems to be how they are always screwing down the manufacturers to sell them whatever to the spec they want. They are like that with tensioners, bearings, brake components, possibly door seals. Decades and decades to get things right and they fail. Vorsprung Durch Technik. Move along quickly, not our fault.

To extort more money from the pigeon.

Yes these are Brembo's from the 986 platform. I didn't want to keep the porsche stickers on the caliper's just to look it a little bit more "stock" than modified. I found the caliper's for real cheap and the rear set's even cheaper. The goal is to keep the costs as low as possible and to invest the savings into performance upgrades on the motor and transmission. Water meth injection, Intercooler co2 sprayer etc... Still got lot's of parts from back then. when I was working on race cars. The wheels are from a Monte Carlo Skoda. ( 16" on 195 tires) Brand new with dealer take of tires. Cheapest set I have ever bought. Rotor's are coated for sure. Born and raised in the Bay Area This car is the most reliable car I have ever owned. That's why I will give it a second chance. People told me to junk it and get rid of it. I tell them kick rock's.

Well finally hit the 100k miles today. 64 plate Tdi VRS, faultless so far. Well done Skoda.

Not only was the sleeve stuck it had gotten misaligned and was rubbing on the impellor slightly making a noise on tickover. I ran the car with the aux. belt off to narrow down the noise but it persisted so i knew it had to be some component of the timing belt

It only needs a small amount of clag or a small foreign body to become pinched in the mouth of the thermostat to give the problem you have, it may not even need the new thermostat. I would whip out both thermostats, inspect and test them before buying any replacement.

Make up your mind is in front of you or behind the engine? PS: the alternator is right in front of you, would it make sense to change that too?

If the linkage has come off at the ball pivot point, for a quick work around, Halfords and others sell a repair click - Halfords Windscreen Wiper Repair Clip | Halfords UK I've never needed to use one, maybe others can comment on that to keep you moving until you buy a new linkage or just trust the repair clip.

The CECM is too old to support LEDs so VCP won't help... Load resistors are probably your best option. Or the original halogen bulbs 🤔

I’am sure mine hasn’t got them dust covers on. When I broke the sensor trying to get it out I didn’t have to remove the hub to knock it out ( but would have to if it had that cover fitted) and that’s how I seen the abs ring was knackered.

What colour is the car? Edit: No Yeti has led main lights.

I agree it does sound like a thermostat issue, you could try covering up the radiator with a bit of cardboard before setting off with a cold engine, if the engine comes up to temperatue rapidly then it's almost certainly a thermostat, just don't drive for too far/long with no airflow througt the radiator. When our pump developed a leak I seem to remember that dealer quoted £450 to replace pump and the pump alone was £180 of that. Aftermarket pumps and thermostats are avaliable cheaper, we bought an FAI one for around £75 and fitted it ourselves, but that was only part 4 from the above diagram, around 2 hours work, probably came to around £120 with new pump, coolant, belt and clips. You could just replace the thermostat(s) but the waterpump has to come off to replace them anyway, and waterpump reliabilty not a VAG group strong point.

Love that brembo lump of wood brake 😁

Kupuj 😀 Mine is 6/2022, still 1896 sw, apparently i have to wait for the sw update to receive it...

The above is incorrect, water temperature is still regulated by a wax capsule thermostat, more than one in the case of a DSG vehicle, the sliding sleeve prevents circulation to provide a faster warm up for emissions and quicker cabin heating response, there is an additional electric water pump to circulate the water through the heater and I think the EGR cooler during the warm up phase when the sleeve is deployed. I think everybody is correct in the diagnosis of a sticking impellor sleeve or its actuator but if you have a DSG vehicle you should also look at the DSG thermostat which will be cheaper and easier to replace. You should also be aware that the temperature guage is software driven with an algorithm that means it will show a rock steady 90°c at any temperature between 70° and 110°, thats a guesstimate it might be +/- 10 or 15°c, whatever it is there is no point watching the guage like a hawk to see small temperature fluctuations, they simply do not register, it will sit at 90°c or drop sinificantly above or below it when the threshold is exceeded.

https://ownersmanuals.blob.core.windows.net/ownersmanuals/en/Octavia_5E/11-2018/OwnersManual.pdf Look at Page 16

Or my birthday one rather late 😉 Thanks dear Audrey, I hope you get yours soon as well.

There is very little engine braking on any tsi engine, they are so free running that inevitably will increase speed going down a steep hill. That said, the brakes on modern cars are specified to be able to drive down mountain passes, losing about 1500m (5000 feet) without any problems. There are very few roads in UK where you will get to 20% of that. So don’t worry about 1970s engine braking ideals. The PHEV can use the electric motor in reverse, as a generator, and this provides braking whilst recharging the batteries. In B mode there is a braking effect with right foot off, in D it is more natural coasting. Even if you don’t have flappy paddles, can engage sport mode on a DSG box by flicking lever back, can nudge it to the side and use up or down flicks to manually change gears (the gear display on the dashboard lets you know which mode you are in). Although everyone I know are initially playing with it, tends not to bother with manual mode as leaving it in D is so much easier. So I would suggest don’t worry about it, let the gearbox electronics do the thinking. Unless you are stopped at multi-way traffic lights or a level crossing where not going to move for >20 seconds you probably won’t manually intervene to neutral.

Another consideration is prices at the moment are high for all cars due to long deliveries of new cars and parts shortages. With all the crap going on now re UK/world economies inflation etc, are new car orders going to start to dry up and cause vehicles to be more available and new cars being offered with discounts and used car values plummeting. I would hate to blow £40k on a new car to find it drops 25% in the first year which is traditionally what it was prior to the pandemic.

@BJMOnly in my EV or anyone's where it requires paying for public charging. Not something i have had to do or will do if i an avoid, which mostly i can. My comparison was the £7 i usually pay @ Edinburgh Airport for this Journey and the £41. That is £34 difference. The rest is what the 320 miles would cost at the different charging costs of 35 pence and more a kWh. Some might do their trips, business or other on cheap home or work tariffs electric. I have done 35,000 miles in 26 months in EV's for under £150 of paying for electric & CPS cards. (Charge Place Scotland) I allow an extra 60 minutes for 150 miles of a trip which can be as much as 450 miles once or twice a week. So charging time is not the issue when i have all the time in the world. When charging is a crap experience of waiting to get charging it is still 'much cheapness'. It is nice though sometimes to do 150 miles in 3 hours or so, then another 150 without waiting about. PS In my Diesel 4x4 Van i get 26 mpg. The 320 miles would require 12 gallons rather than 5 as with the Golf i was driving. Even with that poor MPG it would come out costing less and getting home sooner, most likely in winter than an EV charging at £1 a kWh & maybe getting less than 3 miles a kWh.

Enjoy it. First thing to read up on in the manual and understand when in the car is 'Autohold', no need to sit with a foot on the brake pedal and have brake lights on. (Well actually 'Autohold' will have the brake lights on in your car'.) So get to know how the PHEV works and if you are going to need to use the e-Brake if you want the brake light off when people behind for extended periods. Others with the same as your car will be along.

It is not the Canbus system causing errors, bulbs are universally misnamed Canbus compatible. Canbus had been in cars for years without people even realising, over 12 years of owner repairs and maintenance I never discovered that my MK1 Octavia had some Canbus communications, as soon as people started farting around with LED bulbs for "the colour they want" and the manufacturers started mislabelling their products then the misinformation started. But for LED bulbs and peoples desire to look different they would not even have heard of the term Canbus and from reading myriad threads like this it appears the majority of them have a completely wrong understanding of what it is.

or battery isn't fully charged or it's older than ~24 months(crossed half period of it's lifetime)

That was on the vrs. The elegance that the OP is looking at will be a PD140 which won't have a dpf.

Seems good compared to what I paid my dealer in Australia.

Went out in it this evening. Ambient temperature 11.5 degrees C. Rural area, single track roads with hills, relatively light throttle openings. From startup, it took 6.5 minutes for the gauge to first reach normal, and 3.4 miles (average speed 31 MPH). There was a lot of standing water on the road though.

If it's a PD engine, unless it's a 4x4 then it won't have a DPF fitted.

I don't think mine leaked after I had the drain pipes glued on, but rather than risk it I tapped it up anyway, (just in case...got a bit paranoid about the implications of a leak). I used clear Gorrilla tape and only taped it to the edge of the black seal, (ie no tape on the paintwork). It was on for about 2 years and was just starting to lift in a couple of areas. I removed all the tape before I sold it, took a while to get the residue (glue) off, but used some meths to clean it off it. A real shame that VW did not recognise the problem and as a minimum provides a one off "sealing" option. I think I only ever opened the roof once or twice before taping it up, but I liked the idea of a glass roof even if it didn't open.

Finally done😀😀😀😀 VID-20220930-WA0003.mp4

Yeah it's a different league TBH, but it is a lot more expensive. The infotainment is much much faster. I'd say the interior finish isn't light years ahead though, bar the full leather. I'd own one in a heartbeat lol Think the insurance are being charged around £30 a day for this car so that's £1800 already.

Biggest bang for your buck is a simple remap, nothing else required. If you're determined to wreck the clutch and flywheel then fit a PD150 turbo, FMIC and a remap. Seriously, these need very little to go a lot faster but do the brakes and suspension first.

That looks like a long life exhaust... https://www.longlife.co.uk/ Or one from exhaustsuk http://exhaustsuk.com/index.php

So again what are the calipers from? And what are the piston sizes within the calipers? I suspect they are a rear caliper from a Boxter etc?? The pad contact patch with the face of the disc would concern me tbh, leaving a sizable area untouched by the pads seems a tad counter productive when you're offering supposed increased braking performance. The 323mm disc and 4 pot Brembo caliper from a Leon Cupra R has much better disc coverage

Online manual is poor to say the least. Best guess I can come up with is interior lights on/off with door opening?

No harm in trying but honestly. Shocks have failed much quicker than that on some peoples, the quality of the newer vw shocks after about 2015 is... excuse the pun. SHOCKING. Skoda/vw do not warranty them often, they’ll have a list of excuses that suit them in this situation and rattle that off, give you a nice big quote for replacement and send you on your way.