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Well after three years of 3.6 loveliness it's time to move on. Circumstances have changed, I wanted something different and a Volvo XC70 fitted the bill. I'm going to really miss the 3.6 engine, it's a lovely unit and feels just as strong as the day I got it. I wont miss the fuel bills and road tax! All the best and thanks for any help/advice given.

My car was planned for week 43. I have received info today, that it is already waiting for transport. Dealer says this usually takes two weeks, but it can also be less. I still can't believe I waited more than 15 months for a car. This is just in time. I heard many companies and individuals are cancelling orders, due to impending recession.

This is the sound, it there's regularly weather parked at lights or moving PXL_20220630_164430424.TS_ID_pOXtFBU6QHqPyAeuA9EHVA==.mp4

Likewise, became well acquainted with my windscreen though!

Earning it’s keep.

It’s not a poverty spec car. Many people never own a new car of any description. I hope you enjoy your first Skoda.

Both are 3 main bearing cranks.

If the pictures are correct then it isn't actually a 5 bearing crank but a stiffened 3 bearing one. I have no idea about the bore spacing, the crank throw, rod interference etc and could not deduce that from a photo.

Hi @codyblue welcome to the communtiy. im not directly familiar with the fabia. However I know it could be done in earlier cars, like the Octavia. here are some search results. https://www.briskoda.net/forums/search/?q=Retrofit cruise control fabia&updated_after=any&sortby=relevancy&search_and_or=and id hazard a guess it can be done. Of course there will be a cost. Not sure where you are, but there are a lot of local vag specialists who could do it; assuming it’s possible. that cost, needs to be measured against the cost in returning and purchasing another vehicle. do you have the advert still as that’s a crucial part of that. Take some advice from a few more. hope this helps. Feel free to ask more questions, as replies to those topics, or a fresh.

Hello i already installed myself rearview camera (cheap one) , now i lowered my car and want to add also front view camera. did anyone make it? I just would need to k ow how to get trigger for video input on amundsen. I think that for RVC bcm send trigger to radio to show video and searching how to manual send trigger to radio when its not in reverse? Any help would be great to male it possible

Second service yep not two year old, many many recalls due to software. During second service it's due back in again as known issue with drive belt and pulley. Noticeable via awful sound from engine (1.5), told either one or both will need change on a 2 yr old car. No idea what Skoda did to the Octavia heritage. Ps have noted the infotainment screen should be other way round as it's a left hooker on all UK models meaning main rubbish touch buttons are oriented for Europe so you have to stretch across.

1.5TSI's since the WLTP certification are going to be interesting to watch as the years go on and they are out of manufacturers warranty. Best take out extended Skoda Warranties when the Manufacturers ones do expire. (Memories of Euro 5 TSI's, overblown on the internet, according to VW Group and others.) http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/506640-octavia-mk4-15tsi-engine-rattle

Cheers, will try that

Thanks for your speedy response 👍

Hiya Tom, If you have a Mk 3 VRS then I'd recommend getting the Audi sound resonance damper (harmonic damper) for the rear suspension! Takes 1 minutes to fit and once it's been worn in slightly it works a treat in reducing sound coming in from the rear suspension. Not perfect but well worth the money! Details here - https://www.golfmk7.com/forums/index.php?threads/how-to-retro-fit-the-rear-subframe-harmonic-damper-from-the-audi-a3-saloon-2013.369369/ Just make sure your rear suspension has the appropriate fitting holes before purchase!

Thanks. In the past year it’s been hit twice on the rear passenger side so got to sort that out at some point. But for the age the paint works not bad.

Wasn't the Mk1 Golf known for that too? Loving the car @faboka vrs, very shiny.

I disabled the power cut in the ecu mapping. Just never got round to learning left foot braking properly.

I use mine more as a toy nowadays doing autosolos’s. Remap? Personal thing but I’ve now put mine back to stock. Polly bush. Not for me. Squeaks do my head in when the grease wears out. I’d use stock bushes with seat Ibiza solid rubber console bushes. rear anti roll bar. Yes. Either H&R or Jabbasport. I personally think the whiteline isn’t stiff enough. Dampers. Stock will be well past it now, wasn’t great when new. I really like my bilstein B8’s. Maybe koni sport would be another option. front camber. I use silverproject camber top mounts set to max camber which is almost 3 degrees. I put this in the same must have bucket as the rear anti roll bar. Springs. Keep stock. With the above setup on eibach springs I was running out of suspension travel and bouncing off the bump stops. brakes. I’m now back on stock from running 312’s. They have plenty of power.

People probably only liable to steal a Mk2 Fabia to get the Glass with the sticker on, or on the unlikely possibility that there is a GPS tracker fitted. Thieves are probably not as gullible or as easily parted with money as those buying these stickers. EDIT. Good it is moved to another section. 'Chuckle of the day' might have suited the product. Skoda can not get much of the IT, Sat Nav or SOS trch that is fitted to work.

@Tech1e Might be able to advise if a retrofit is possible ??

You wont need much a flywheel with that abortion!

Could also be AH. I just can't see dots where dots should be to make that last letter read as an M?

Stick to one of these 3x values to be absolutely sure of a compatible fit

Ok guys I can confirm that 20x8.5 ET45 wheels fit perfectly fine with 235/35/20 tyres on a Mk4 Octavia VRS Estate. No rubbing on full lock and ride quality is the same. Pics below.

04L 129 766 Q --> 04L 129 766 AM --> 04L 129 766 BA This is how your part changes to the latest version

@varooom may be kind enough to confirm/deny whether those other numbers from the skodaparts page are all supersedences of one another.

POI upload was completely removed from the new infotainment system, and nobody has figured out a way to get that functionality back yet - there's a very good chance it will never be possible. If you want to keep up with developments, the Google search you'll need is 'MIB3 POI'

At a guess, something is mis-coded or another module is sad. Unfortunately the ODIS output isn't particularly google friendly - I'd suggest finding someone local with VCDS to take a look. For reference, the OP asked the same on drive2, adding a link in case it gets solved there first: https://www.drive2.ru/l/630192237359150475/

At a guess - it might be this: https://www.skoda-parts.com/spare-part/5e5827895a9b9-boot-handle-24644.html No sure if you have an estate or hatchback? I think that's for an estate but I'm not sure.

No, you can't. This assembly is basically a window lift, so you have to detach the glass. Good question qbout point 3 You just slide the glass in. You have to be carefull, so that it slides exactly in correct place and gently push it into the latches. When you see it, you will know what i mean. You might need to use screwdriver again to help window to slide in. Push it exactly same way, as during disassembly, so that glass can slide into the latch. I had to do it for one latch. Too bad i haven't taken any pics of that part.

I had nearly forgotten how good the range on ICE cars can be and how the range game can be fun in an efficient ICE car. With temperatures plummeting the amount of range I see on the Zoe drops a little bit each morning for the same state of charge. So when the temperature was 15C or above I could see 230 miles range on the Zoe 52 kWh. Driving it on the motorway, particularly between Worcester and Birmingham, which is about a 500 ft climb, the range has taken a hit at more than one mile of range lost per one mile travelled, particularly in that 100% down to 90% level in the EV as regen does not work fully in that range of state of charge. Do my regular journey to Liverpool yesterday in the Arkana which is powered by the well known 1.333 TCE engine used by Mercedes, Nissan and Renault, linked to the 7 speed EDC gearbox with coasting programmed in which works in ECO mode and non-ECO. Fill the 50 litre tank up, car came with 20 litres from the dealer and I put in another 30 litres. Predicted range on the car is a rather staggeringly low 430 miles, still 200 more than the Zoe would show at best and 230 more than on a cool autumn morn with the temp at around 6C. Set off from Worcester heading North, thinking about the days of running in cars which was not mentioned by the dealer and I do think was mentioned in the last decade or two with the new cars I have owned. 50 litres is about 11 gallons so car is predicting about 40 mpg I suppose. Climb the several hills up to Brum, pass the Hawthorns WBAFC ground at it 551 feet above sea level after starting in Worcester at about 75 feet above sea level and range is still 430 miles even after having done 25 to 30 miles. The join the M6, lots of traffic but at least very little 50 mph as there has been but keeping the car at around 60/65 mph as no big rush to get to Liverpool and setting a few thinks as I cruise along ie music settings, balance of speakers, bass, treble etc. 115 miles later arrive at city limits of Liverpool, range now showing 450 miles and instruments showing 56 mpg. Indicated range is close to the 600 miles, miles travelled plus range shown with 7/8s of a tank showing, I have been expecting. "Coasting function is weird, even more so than the 7 speed DSG I had in Octy, ie engine shows no revs at all but I suppose the mild hybrid system is providing power to powering steering etc. So ICE car was great, EV would have been a pain, even if I had got the new Megane-e I test rode, probably would not have made the 250 mile round trip without severe range anxiety. EV I charge at home for around £4 to give me the 200 miles range. Arkana I use by company fuel card to fill with petrol and the tax on that would be £16 so both very cheap, I pay more for the parking in Liverpool. Employer seems to be reluctant to supply an EV charge card compared to no problem with an ICE fuel card. Certain things must change if the initial spurt of move from ICE to EV is to continue. Salary sacrifice scheme for EV need rolling out to make EVs appear better value to business car users. EV cars need to get better 350 plus miles of range, in the winter, much better motorway charging for non-Teslas, Gridserve getting there but oh so slowly. Pricing of EV charging at home and on the road it increasingly massively ie trebled in about a year. After April 2023 ie end of home energy subsidy could be interesting ie 20p per kWh even on night time tariff, 50p-60p on day time tariff except for lagging energy deals still in place. Cannot se myself going all EV until I retire in about 4 years time when hopefully the above will be a reality and not just a pipe dream.

Cracking away at it while I get stuff sorted with the mk1(s) Still haven't gotten a logbook for the vrs so just gonna put it aside for the moment.

My warm congratulations! Finally. Will be happy to take over the crown of the longest waiter!

Guys, just to report back. The problem has been solved. The car has been sold 😁

You might need to enter a new code as per below link https://mib-helper.com/im-so-xory/

Ok, so first step been completed. Front side windows replaced. If anyone is interested, part numbers are: 5E3845022 (right side) 5E3845021 (left side) Nothing else needs replacement, seals are the same. In Poland i have paid 865 PLN per windows, so roughly 180€ in dealership. Tried to find used windows, but only found them in Sweden. It made no sense, as price (with shipping) was just 20€ lower, than new ones. Replacement is rather easy, once door card is removed. 1. Remove 2 plastic caps marked in green. 2. Lower your window, so that you can see holes/openings in the glass. 3. Use screwdriver or something similar to push plastic windows latches, that you can see through hole in the glass (sorry, haven taken pictures of this part). Push gently, but rather deep. At the same time try to move the glass up. Once it's release, you can remove it. 4. Release straps holding wiring (yellow marks). Do not cut them, as those are not regular straps you can replace with anything! 5. Take off plug marked in red. Disconnect all plugs. 6. Remove 2 torx screws in point marked in red. 7. Rotate green "screws" by 90 degrees counter-clockwise. Now you can remove whole window lift part, gaining access to inside of the door if you wish to use the mats there. If not, you can skip points from 4 to 7. Assemble everything in reverse order. That's it. One note - after this, you will need a diagnostic interface to clear airbag error. Round part with yellow plug is impact sensor. I have used the mats in the doors, on speaker frame and on the midrange driver mounting place on the door card. Mat is 3mm thick. Also used accoustic foam (self-adhesive) on the door cards. Now door and window feels much more sturdy. Sounds completely different when you knock on it/hit it. Also give very satisfying closing sound. Inside you can hear less noise from passing cars, but it's still present. I was surprised, that it has also reduced a bit tyre noise and suspension sounds. In general improvement is quite good, at least up to 100-120 kph. At 140 kph difference seems to be little bit lower, as tyre noise is dominating. I guess will need to also do wheel arches, and maybe part of the floor. Also one can still hear windo noise from the windscreen. Not replacing it yet Please remember, that i did all at once, so i cannot really say what would be the effect on replacing windows only, without dampening the doors. Dampening the doors has improved audio significantly. It still lacks lower bass, but at least now bass much better controlled, more punchy. Sounds much better in general. Now i have to do a rear door Edit: One more photo - inside of the door. Haven't used the mats on reinforcement, as i don't think it resonates that much, and didn't want to add more weight to the door. They are heavy already now

It's not obvious from my post but a control unit / SOS module was also replaced with the steering wheel. It was unclear to me whether that was to do with the front travel assist unavailable fault or the ACC fault or the pop pop SOS fault. Amusingly the pop pop SOS fault has returned.

great - thanks again for help

The driving become more stable. Especially when cornering at low or high speed you feel stiffer ride. 30 mm lowering did not reduce the comfort, no bumpier ride. Car is still high to easily pass speed bumps.

So my apparently trained Vw mechanic couldn’t find the leak. Ordered an endoscope, removed the intake air temp sensor and had a nosey. Whilst looking inside a few drops of water rolled past the camera, so looks like it’s my charge air cooler leaking! Easy to check with a wee endoscope if they can’t get to the bottom of it.

After a long 3 months from the last wash, Gandalf is shiny clean again!!

But the sound we are talking about IS normal. Oil will not change anything, as sound is coming from the "common-rail"/high pressure injection.

Correct me if I’m wrong but you appear to be saying that the trip in the diesel was only approx. £5 more than it would be in your EV However you had to waste 90 minutes charging up. As someone who regularly drives 200 - 250 miles on multi drop deliveries I’ll happily pay £5 a trip to get home early.

I did my usual return trip of 320 miles in an efficient diesel instead of my EV. 115ps 2.0 TDI 7 speed DSG 21 plate Golf. I enjoyed it very much. Missed heated seat and steering wheel and physical buttons. 80 miles of 60 MPH limit roads getting 70 mpg average plus displayed & 240 miles motorway getting 60 + mpg displayed. I used 23 litres brim to brim. 5 gallons, so an average 64 mpg.. 177.9 pence a litre. ****cost £41. **** Usually with just paying for a 30 minute charge at Edinburgh airport it cost me about £7. Other charges are free, before i head off, then first charge after 65 miles then after 90 miles then the Edinburgh charge after 99 miles home. Then free charging gets done. That is lots of charging time on sometimes hopelessly slow chargers. But if i was paying 35 pence a kWh and getting 3.1 miles per kWh which i would in this weather that would be 103 kWh so ****£36.13.**** At least 90 mins charge time needed, often much more. @ 50 pence a kWh then £51.50. 69 pence a kWh then £71.07 £1 a kWh £103. That would be crazy. Average speed showing is odd as @ NSL's with only a few miles in total through 30 mph villages. Yesterday when showing 80 mpg plus for about 10 miles after filling up the range was showing 620 miles.

@roottoot No doubt the issue of hogging a charger will only get worse as adoption rate of electric cars increases. Fast forward a few years and tickets might get issued (the car park owners will want to replace their lost income)

Yes, I do hear you.... but then you could just pick up a cheaper ICE car also, such as a focus/fiesta or even some of the MG models. Fundamentally more than 8 years in to the great experiment the infrastructure is still way way behind where it needs to be. Why should a company and company car driver save on BIK and other taxes if both have not invested in charging infrastructure? If you don't have a charger but are claiming relief on taxes, then sorry but you keep paying them (Maybe at a lower rate) with that money invested in public charging. To be honest, if the infrastructure was there, such that there were any Plugin Electric bays at 7kW and 22+ was reserved for full BEV i'd be ok as they're a battery car with a 40kWh battery. It sadly comes down to there needing to be a big hit for idle charging when there are small number of chargers in dedicated bays. In the nordics my understanding is that there used to be (or maybe still is), a lot of power connectors in public car parks for pre-heating in the winter. If such a system could deliver 10-16A and was on most bays, then that would be ideal for the hybrids.

£600 is 300L of derv or approximately 3000 miles assuming a very poor 10MPL/45MPG. If you go up to a more realistic 12MPL/approx 54MPG then you're at 3600 miles per month before you have paid just the cost of leasing an EV. By the time you add in say 10 charges of 50kWh@60p per kWH then it's another £300 (for 1500 miles assuming 3 miles/kWh ) or if it's only 5 public rapid charges then £150 (for 750 miles). Obviously you have cheaper home charging, but if you use the range you are getting hit on time, availability of chargers and cost. That spend is another 75-150L of derv @£2/l, which is another 750-1800 miles depending on what MPG you get and if EV what public charging you do. Like you I really want an electric, to the point I have one on order, however with the lack of infrastructure to charge an EV away from home, then actually it gets really hard to justify throwing that much money per month at one. I can actually see why people go on about hydrogen, because in theory it's a drop in replacement for peoples current habits and time. Of course the infrastructure for that is beyond useless anhd it's not as efficient. It's quite sad, because the cars cost the earth, the infrastructure is terrible, hybrids are a big con and even the economics don't actually stack up vs a diesel with fuel prices at this very high level. I mean even if you put £400 lease on a new diesel, then you're looking at a minimum of £250 extra for an EV every month, which is still 125L/1250 miles.

must admit I’ve thought… just grab a diesel. diesel is most dense fuel, energy per whatever. I don’t do short trips <20mins. I don’t go into ulez that often if ever, and 600 a month gets a lot of fuel and ulez… we’ll not that much fuel… there are loads of diesels on the market. 8years from now bev will have worked, or it will of failed. idk. I really want to do electric. And if I didn’t have the long drive/random mileage (pcp/lease blocker) I’d of done it by now I think. Because I could home charge, that seems to be the pivot point. might just grab a second hand leaf, then use swmbo for out of county. Problem is when we go in different directions. really struggling to commit 40k plus to something with 250+ miles. Or make it 50k. Watching video reviews from less than 12mths ago is confusing. Volvos xc40recharge twin is at least a ton more per month now. I think there will be a pricing reset. Although the seat guy said never going to happen. Carwow investors may differ, discounts will be back.