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A few from yesterday's visit to Attenborough nature reserve (glad we stayed for the sunset) .....................

That looks very much like the battery has had it

Some pics of Gandalf before I wash him again after 3 months!!

Once you go cam, you never go bam... Here, fixed it for your dirty mind. 😂

This is the more or less finished product. Its pitch black outside but hopefully I'll get some pics in the morning. Cleaned up well, thick layer of film came off the inside glass. I waxed the outside of the glass as I find it improves visibility massively in the wet. I've yet to have a problem doing it to any car I've owned. Some religious bits in the car still from the previous owner. I took them out, cleaned them and put them right back in. Didn't feel right to remove them.

Ever since the discontinuation of the Fabia estate, it'll be this Mk1 Fabia as my last Skoda unless a mint Mk1 estate pops up or similar. Dacia keep cropping up as a cheap way into a more modern car, but I need to wait and see longevity of these cars as the early Sanderos and Dusters (RUSTERS!) don't seem to be holding up too grand. Otherwise, Nissan or Toyota have my vote for spec, reliability, and price (especially second hand).

My sons old Karoq on its 16” winter wheels

For me 2003/4 was the zenith, all downhill since then. I really wanted another MK1 Octavia but it was proving impossible to find one good enough with moderate mileage that would see me through another 325K miles, the 2006 MK2 I bought was a bargain but not a patch on the MK1, a completely disconnected drive and full of temperemental electronics, I had to do some major catch up, like 15 years worth! The only fault the MK1 had was being too reliable and hence me no longer keeping my hand and eye in. The Yeti is just more of the same. I remain through familiarity and loyalty, they are still quite good vehicles but I still yearn for an older simpler one, a Roomster is an itch that wont go away. If I change manufacturer it will be to Japanese or Korean but would then rue the price and availability of parts, that is something firmly in Skodas favour, the benefit of a shared VAG platform.

I use those steel 16” on mine, look fine. Don’t forget the outside dia is the same. Dont forget that winter wheels are specified to use 16” on car.

Too many photos to put in one post but I've finished polishing the paint, wasn't glazed or waxed in that photo, so might come out a bit glossier when I'm actually finished. And I used trim restore on the bumpers, Didn't get a good before/after shot like I did the bonnet, so I did one on the boot trim. Took the plates off for probably the first time, as evidenced by the imprint of the numbers behind them. Not sure whether I'll keep the old plates or maybe get new metal ones. Might put a jap/square plate on the front as it seems one might fit it better than the original one

New spark plugs put in, they made a noticeable difference. Revs a lot more freely now, still a bit stumbly under 2000 rpm when you're driving it however. Clears up above that. Sounds quite nice with an open intake. Only Like this because the air filter I ordered has still not arrived. Got the wheels off it to get tyres on. Pretty good shape underneath considering. And you can see why I needed new tyres. All of them were like this And one was like this Got some ditchfinders fitted for 50 euro a corner. All the driving this will see, they should be fine.

https://www.tayna.co.uk/car-batteries/varta/n70/ You have an EFB battery 6R0 915 105 B that is eventually replaced by part number 000 915 105 FC https://www.autodoc.co.uk/car-parts/oem/000915105fc EDIT: You will need to adapt the gateway of the car to let it know the new capacity of say 70Ah and just increase the serial number by 1. EDIT 2: An image for the new part number, zoom and rotate for Varta branding Just above the no bin option = Varta

https://www.tayna.co.uk/car-batteries/?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIjt2Cw_H4-gIVh7btCh1ang2SEAAYASAAEgKtZPD_BwE I believe that’s where I bought a battery for my old Passat from, or it was battery mega store. Tanya whack in your reg and it should already know if your battery is EFB if not make sure you click the EFB tab Once you got the model number you can do more searching if anyone has it cheaper. I’ll be honest I’m not sure if it’s only stop start that needs coding, hopefully someone else can clarify

Very likely to be your battery, it’s around the right time for batteries to start dying with colder evenings. Have a look at your battery and see if it’s still the OE one as that could be the same battery it’s had all its life. What year is your car? If it is the original make a note of what battery you have, they’ll be a sticker saying AGM or something else B?? Then buy a direct Varta replacement. If it’s not obvious to you post a picture on here You’ll need it coded to your car

Easy enough to change battery with no apparent faults, but new battery really does need to be coded to car using VCDS or similar after fitting.

shrooms

@AGFalcoNot sure what caused it but I’m almost 900km after the tires switch and the noise almost disappeared. I thought it’s a bad bearing.. Thanks a lot guys! I believe the remaining noise remained from the bad isolation of the car(other O3 owners also complain about it).

Managed to find a Phoenix Orange 1.5tsi Sportline with Winter+ and Amundsen+ packs, one month old and £4000 less than new retail price so whats the point of waiting months? Pick it up next week and say goodbye to my Black 1.5tsi SEL. No more spending ages trying to locate my car in the car park!

I suspect that rather than simply being down to relative adhesion levels, the breakaway characteristics of a tyre will have a greater influence on both driver behaviour and safety. A tyre which grips like the proverbial and then lets go all of a sudden is more likely to induce uncontrolled sliding behaviour than one which has a more progressive breakaway.

Everyone seems mad for me to get the wheels done but I'm not in a rush. I'm not necessarily trying to make this look new, just trying to freshen it up to enjoy. Don't really mind the scruffy wheels on this if I'm honest. Might do them or have them done at some point but it's not a priority. Almost definitely needs one. Every time you drive iti, it's clearing up more and more. Presumably old fuel still in the system and gumming everything up isn't helping either.

yes its replacable, but you need to "copy" the config from your unit to then copy it to the new one, doing this will require dealer diagnostic tools or VCDS or similar. My question would be, "if" a whack has fixed it and its a dodgy connection, it may well be worth disconnecting the battery, then unplugging the BCM completely, having a nosy at the plugs for condition, if all appears well then reconnect and see how it goes. It is entirely possible that the connection to 1 or a few pins has been "broken" / dislodged after its been plugged in for over 10 years in a car enviroment with vibration, bumps and bangs etc etc, so definitely worth a try imo.

I noted in an earlier message today that I'm in SE UK and to your 2nd question of course not. For me a theoretical 1.2 mpg better going for Michelins rather than Hankooks = £35-£50 saving a year in petrol - not a lot in the grand scheme of things & car ownership costs, but Hankooks anyway rather cheaper to buy. In the weather conditions down here, Hancocks arguably offer the best grip and safety performance of any tyre overall, even if they do pollute more than the Michelins. I'll probably change tyres early next year and from what you say about AW availability, looks like that may be a good time.

IIRC the DSG 'tune' increases the DSG clutch clamping pressures so it can handle the higher torque?

Thanks for the headsup Ryan - there is a bluetooth adaptor available for the aux port it seems for the MFD1 and VW gamma headunits, gonna give one of those a try

Yes 👍

What with one thing and another I have to admit that running has been a very low priority for me over the last three months. I'm thankful that the UK Parkruns gave me an incentive to at least get out some weekends while there, but it was no surprise that today's run was yet another example to me that you either use it or lose it, and I had definitely lost it 😞 . Hey ho let's see if I can get back in the groove and improve. It is fun seeing the variety of runners who get involved in Parkruns. Those storming round determined to set a new course record but missing out by a just a few elusive seconds (better luck next week), the skinny very young boys and girls who bounce along effortlessly like antelopes, all tendon rebound and the all the others out there like me doing their best and it does create a great atmosphere. In amongst the runners there was a genuine talent who set two course age graded records on successive weeks I was there and I would have been interested to see her style but regrettably I was never going to be fast enough to see her or slow enough for her to lap me. Parkrun measure (and publish) your effort against the best theoretical speed for the distance achieved in your age group and sex and express it as a percentage of age group world record times. For instance in the male 65-70 year age group I'm currently achieving a circa 62% score but the person in question achieved a 94% rating in theirs, which is really up there as even the person who finished the course fastest is 'only' rated at ~70% for age/sex. Ok the next bit is a bit creepy; you can click on a person in the parkrun website and view their running history. What is really interesting is this runner had been doing parkruns for some years and typically quickly achieved improvements until they reached a particular time which was good age group rating. Here is the thing, over the next few years she was consistently able to maintain that time and as she entered each new age group her age rating improved to the exceptional one it is now. I find it quite a remarkable and different achievement and a demonstration of the use it or lose it mantra.

dark side were very helpful when I was in touch, but they couldn’t be certain that the one they stocked would fit. Seems to be a couple of different versions around which are all slightly different. Have ordered a second hand part so will try and pressure test it when it arrives and fingers crossed it’ll last another few miles!

417 bought it March 2021

If someone steals my car to rag, strip parts from or even just go dogging in i do not want it recovered.

Yes it IS needed because of the factory limiter of 250NM. Tuning the car without doing the DSG would be pointless i guess.

Hi Vlady, Sorry for the late response. I did. They did a stage 1 remap + adjusted the Torque of the DQ200 so it could handle more. The car feels significantly faster and gear shifts happen much more smoother. Worth every penny!

Did you code the battery management system to tell it you have changed the battery? If not it will assume the old battery is fitted.

Hi dooge thankyou for your reply. If your saying that if the encoder used is not compatible, however, all the songs that i have downloaded to mp3 format are from youtube hence they should all work as the source and method are both the same. I will look into the difference between the ones that are working and the one that arnt working. Thankyou

Good choice, the 1.9 is super reliable, the 1.2 notsomuch.

Both door handles and windows button modules done. Now it's dead quite, better than in CLA Merc Tape is on almost all edges, as well as latches, clips etc. So basically everything, that directly touches the doorcard plastic. Also some tape on the door card: Highly recommended "mod", as it fixes one of the biggest issues with O4 (and all Skoda's) trim. Hope it will not start "squeecking" again Will doo rear doors (maybe even worse than front) when i will be dampening them, so in few weeks probably.

I had the same noise in the first video at the begin, they initially said they fixed it drove out garage and it was still there. Went straight back in and a technician came out with me and heard the noise. Booked in got a courtesy car for a couple of days to allow investigation , turned out to be something loose behind the touch screen . Issue now resolved. Also had to get the A pillar cover on left hand side (passenger side uk) re fitted as not fitted correctly and rubbing noise with dashboard

The 2022 All weather tyre reviews are emerging, awaiting the AutuExpress review in November. Meantime : 4 ALL SEASON TYRE COMPARISONS Hankook Kinergy 4S2, Michelin CClimate 2, Goodyear Vector G3, Vredstein Quatrac (Pro in Tyre Rev) TYRE REVIEWS AUTO-BILD 225/45 R17 195/55 R16 OVERALL 1 mild climates - HK 1 - GV 1 snowy climates - MCC 2 - VQ 2 snowy climates - HK 3 - HK g comfort 3 mild climates - MCC 8 - MCC vg comfort 3 mild & snow - GV 7 mild & snow - VQP FUEL CONSUMPTION VQ best of these, rest similar, none brilliant ROLLING RESISTANCE 3 - MCC, 6 - GV 2 - MCC vg, 8 - VQ av 8 - HK, 10 - VQP 11 - HK poorish, 14 - GV poor ABRASION weight loss 1 - MCC 6 - GV10% more particulates 7 - VQ 14% more particulates 14 - HK 50% more particulates DRY handling 1 - GV, 4 - HK, All good handling, summer better 5 - MCC, 7 - VQP braking 1 - MCC, 2 - HK, All good braking, best MCC vg 5 - VQP, 7 - GV but summer way better WET handling 1 - VQP, 2 - HK handling 1 - summer, 2 - VQ, 3 - GV, 7 - MCC 3 - GV, 5 - HK, 12 - MCC braking 1- VQP, 2 - HK braking 1 - summer, 4 - GV, 3 - GV, 5 - Mxc 5 - VQ, 6 - HK, 10 - MCC aquaplane 1 - HK, 2 - GV aquaplane 1 - GV, 6 - summer, 4 - MCC, 9 - VQP 7 - VQ, 8 - MCC, 13 - HK SNOW traction 1- MCC, 4 - HK traction (summer brilliant!!) 8 - GV, 9 - VQP 2 - MCC g, rest close handling 1 - MCC, 3 - HK handling all good (no sum tested) 3 - GV, 9 - VQP 3 - HK best of these braking 1 - MCC, 2 - GV braking all good 4 - HK, 8 - VQP NOISE internally 2 - VQP, 5 - HK, externally 2 - HK & MCC, 5 - VQ, all close 6 - GV, 8 - MCC 8 - GV, summer dreadfull

As varoom mentioned I did have ussues with my columbus in my mk11 superb although mine was the constant splash screen..after advice I found swl to download off internet.however the unit was making all the right noises whilst trying to do the update but it didn't fix...I ended up finding a great guy off ebay from who I purchased a recon unit with a years warranty for £299...fitted and working then sent my original unit back to the seller and he sent £100 back to my bank..

Even Lane Keep / Lane Keep assist left set at it's most sensitive is not an issue when pulling into a passing place or parking spot. Use mirrors and use the indicator. (Are you not below 40 mph anyway as you are pulling into a passing place?) Using your indicators when crossing centre lines is easy enough when they are there, holding the steering wheel when meeting cars is easy and adjusting sensitivity is easy.

Check laptop, see if it can burn. I can supply ISO for download, or possibly you travel for update. You would also need a stable power supply, so a charger also would be a must.

The fuel sender will be, two of them if you have a 4x4 or version with a saddle tank, I have a feeling that the lift pump might be integral with one of them but may have imagined it.

That’s exactly it lol 😂

I've attached a PDF on how to remove the front bumper. Basically:- 1. Put front on jack stands 2. Remove front wheels 3. Remove wheel arch liner 4. Disconnect washer fluid pipe 5. Disconnect electrical plugs 6. Remove screws holding bumper 7. Remove bumper Removing Front Bumper.pdf

The Karoq 4WD size tyres are more comfortable than the Karoq 2WD size tyres because they are bigger, ie. 225/60R16 instead of 215/60R16, 225/55R17 instead of 215/55R17, 225/50R18 instead of 225/45R18, etc. Take a look at the alloy rim sizes on "skoda eshop cz" https://eshop.skoda-auto.cz/cs_CZ/hlinikove-disky/c/alloyWheels?sort=priceAsc&q=%3AscoreDesc%3AcarType%3AKaroq%2B%282017%2B%29&show=Page# You will see from the above link that the standard Karoq rim sizes are: 225/60R16 6Jx16 ET43 very comfortable 225/55R17 7Jx17 ET45 quite comfortable 225/50R18 7Jx18 ET45 not so comfortable 225/45R19 8Jx19 ET45 uncomfortable If you are interested in ride comfort avoid the 19" option. For best steering precision the 6Jx16 ET43 rim is a bit narrow for the relatively wide 225/60R16 tyre size but does improve ride comfort. Perhaps look at a wider 7Jx16 ET45 rim (from the Superb MK2 and Yeti) for the Karoq 4WD 225/60R16 tyre option. 225/55R17 and 225/50R18 fitted to 7J rims will be far more comfortable than 225/45R19 fitted to relatively wide 8J rims.

You could get a Maxton design front spoiler they are considerable cheaper

First post in this thread has specs for ride height and how to check it. It'll take you about 10 minutes max and it's worth doing before you go any further:

Hi, I wanted to share this amazing spec. (Couldn't find last post where I shared my original RS review). This color is starting to grow on me. Can't say I would be bold to actually spec one but it looks sooo good! It's a 2.0 TSI 245 HP, 7 DSG, wish it had 4x4 haha Here are some b-roll shots. And review. This is probably a fully loaded with all possible options.

Not always. If you don't want this to happen again then use these guidelines. Swap tyres from left to right every 6 months. ( as long as they are not directional tyres). Fit new tyres in pairs to the rear. If the fronts were the worn out ones then swap the older rears to the front also swapping diagonally at the same time. Do you do a lot of longer high speed journeys? Thanks, AG Falco

If pumping your tyres up (quite correctly) to 39psi causes the headlights to crack then that would come under "not fit for purpose" in my view. 🙂 More likely that it is a sub standard part.