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You can use more than binary in the serial number. VAO or VA0 should not make any difference to the charging, merely cosmetic to show what was fitted (they leave factory on JCB, so that tells you enough as to how important it is) Rating, technology type are important values of course. Taken from an Audi training document, check out serial number @Smart Pro I suspect by your own admission, that you left your car ignition on for an extended period, thus draining the battery under 12V. You then drove a whopping 45 miles with the Alternator/charging light on before you told the car it had a 'new' battery. The Alternator would have provided enough power for lights/heating etc, but as the car had determined your existing battery was too low to safely charge, a safety feature to not allow any input of power would have occured. You then fooled the car into thinking it had a new one, and it instantly applied power to charge it up. p.s. This is my opinion on how the event occured, and why the light was on, then got extinguished. Only VAG would know if this theory of mine is correct.

A few more from Attenborough - the Moon was especially colourful

To be honest it sounds like you've bought someone's previous problem so I think that's the best plan of action. A recon engine from Skoda will be lots of dosh(much more than £1300) - don't accept what some people call a recon engine that's just an engine out of a scrap car. Also with this sort of oil usage lots of things will be not so good eg DPF, Cat, exhaust sensors, EGR and turbo with oil/diesel contamination.

Rufford Park late now virtually all frozen over 🥶

Amazed!

and another job done just in time as got mot booked tomorrow lol thanks for all the advice as always see what she wants to break on me next haha.

The best thing is a Minus 10 *oC - -23*oC washer liquid. Little use when it freezes on it's way to the nozzles, sometimes the pipes are behind the insulation, but even with 'Heated Nozzles' they freeze. As it is i see little point of spraying a windscreen when the air temp is below freezing. PS Worse in an EV where there is no heat in the engine compartment to un-freeze stuff. The Bottle, pipes and nozzle need heated, and still you spray a Unheated windscreen and it can freeze.

Welcome. Hopefully someone can help. I suspect a low battery at that time & not able to cope with the high load demand. As to the Washer Fluid. Is it liquid in the bottle and maybe frozen in the pipes nozzle? Or just not working as the rest of the stuff.

Check if all below is done : Select Driver Assistance A5 - Select Long coding - Select KLR - Set to Coded - Select Point of intervention - Set to Early - Select HC Warn Intensity - Set to Setting_over_menu - Select HC variante - Set to Variante_2 - Select Adaptive cruise control 13 - Select Long coding - Select Capacitive_sterring_whell - Set to Installed - Select Travel Assist - Set to Activated - Select Gateway 19 - Select Adaptation - Select Specified installation of sub-bus users - Select Control module for sterring whell touch reconition - Set to Yes Last one needs sfd, I have skipped it an despite having same error U112500 it all works.

Good to analyse. The first, not worth going for if its got gearbox issues. Ive had a few modern manual VAG cars and Ill be honest, the manual gearbox really is nothing to write home about in my opinion. They used to have issues with chocolate slave cylinders which would crack (my old MK6 GTi went at 93k but still had meat on the clutch) but if you prefer manual, aim for it. The DSG does feel lazy in normal mode and automatic mode. Its something I have noticed recently that when you push the shifter across to manual, the throttle response seems to liven up. Not sure if anyone else finds this? For me its the best of both worlds because If I am driving for fun I would want ultimate control and can have it through the paddles in sport mode. Yes, fuel consumption is poorer for short journeys and when driving hard. I drive mine as a daily but shorter journeys with the odd motorway job which, when up to speed and on cruise has achieved 40mpg consistently. Town and shorter use, especially in winter has been 27/28 or an easy 30 in summer. Thats pretty good from a 2L turbo auto. As for the VAQ, unless you adapt to a car very quickly I doubt you'll feel it on a test drive. As for power, yes the 245 will feel more potent, especially if you didnt come out of auto on the DSG. But again, if you are looking at stage 1 maps at any point (and you should because they transform the car) then stock power wont matter. Any GPF model may map slightly less but itll be so marginal you wont care. Keep hunting and try a good manual. I would offer mine but Im 6 speed DSG and you are leaning towards a manual.

*Damped. You don't need the bracket to be wet.

By the time I started charging today / now, that was 9 miles driven but several de-ices and 20% less battery showing with it at 79%. So 9 kWh more or less. Thank goodness for instant heating and for winter tyres. PS. Rapid charger that is not yet on CPS system and giving out electric free did not want to start on CCS so I plugged into it till 80% with AC and then tried again and it started, now it is charging at around 13kW. Snug as a bug in a rug. Phone and Chromebook charging. You need to work at being tight with money. Tariff should be 23 pence a kWh if they actually had the charger on the App / System so that it could be started on a phone.

Evening all. I've spent the last half an hour or so searching the forum some advice on towbars but all I can find is info on the VRS. (Mine isn't a VRS) I'm considering fitting a towbar but I'd ideally not want to spoil the look of it so I was considering a detachable towbar but if I have to cut the bumper then is it worth just going with a swan neck. Does anybody have a picture of their towbar please so I can get an idea of how it would look.

It’s also called pi55ing me off. I’m so glad I’ve rejected the damn thing and it will soon be gone.

Sounds like they forgot a step in activating all your codes for fitted parts. Called not following the TPI document 🙄

Depends on how much they are set to lose by you returning it. Certainly won't get a customer out of a briskoda member after all this (or anyone else doing a search). If you do get it rejected are there any forum rules about posting the reg? A colleague got a ford recon engine done at ford for something like £1300. So it's not an expensive thing to do in general.

I've literally just stumbled upon that in the 'recent pics thread' I'll keep looking.

If you don't have a multi meter get a second opinion regarding the wiring as it does suggest that is where the problem lies. The wires within parking sensor harness are known to go brittle, particularly where they are under stress and cause this problem. You can get a tested, used parking sensor harness from Ebay for around £30 and fit it yourself. Plenty of You Tube videos on how to remove the rear bumper, to gain access to the parking sensors and wiring and the rear offside interior side trim to gain access to the module where the harness terminates. If you are going to do this, get some 3M double sided sticky pads to reaffix your parking sensor holders to the underside of the rear bumper.

Funnily enough, I'm halfway through that vid, just paused it to make a cup of tea and noticed you had already posted it up. I like Mike Wheeler and knew he was car daft, but I didn't realise quite how car daft he is. Astonishing!

How old is the battery? AGM? Mine sounded low this morning too but has done so the last year or two whenever it’s very cold. So far never fails to start. AGM’s don’t usually die suddenly. It’s a long drawn out death with lots of warning.

Take the power feed from an ignition live circuit, rather than a permanent live.

Just had the pleasure of this ridiculous problem in my car. I was getting the 'replace key battery' message a few weeks ago so swapped it out for a new Duracell. All fine until we drove to a Christmas event this afternoon (temperature of 1 degree), after parking up the car wouldn't lock and the dash was saying 'no key detected', I hadn't received any warnings prior to this so the new battery has lasted a few weeks. Cue much faffing with accessing the barrel lock and figuring out how to start the car with a dead key battery (the answer is to put the key in the cup holder(!), how does this work? presumably the key has some sort of backup that can be detected at very close range?!). Upon returning home found we had no spare batteries so I have removed the battery and done the trick of warming it between my hands and blowing on it(!), hey presto the battery has come back to life (for now). So it looks like as well as being fussy about the type of battery (I understand Panasonic is preferred) they also don't like the cold. What a ridiculous situation, I replaced the battery maybe 3 times in 8 years in our MkIII. All this for keyless entry (that I don' want) and keyless ignition (that I also don't want). Why do car manufacturers insist on fixing problems that don't exist with badly implemented solutions?

Just bought number 165 today👍🏻

As above. The FP activation is the low pressure lift pump under rear seats. Suspect you have a wire fault, earth point fault or connector plug fault somewhere. Does anything electrically not work. If so. Start there. Otherwise indicator loom I guess I would start testing. Maybe fuel pump loom as well if no joy.

...or you could just ignore the manual and crack on, you'll need a new hub nut, not a flange.

All sorted. Newly bought batteries in both fobs did the trick. Thanks for the guidance

I believe that's the low pressure fuel pump.

Not easily, you need to be able to lay on your back, half-in/out of the car. It's under steering wheel area. What source of wiring diagrams are you using? Asking so that we can see if we are on same page, quite literally.

You can cure your 19 - Gateway fault by coding out/in 56 - Radio as needed in theory, and that error will bugger off. The fault would need wiring diagrams and tracing of destinations to measure Voltages, do you have these to reference?

Yes loom was exact match. fault existed before loom swap (that was fitted to try and cure the led issue) I'll try to post VCDS log

It's in the above image, the 3 character's at the end Z00 to Z0J And some parts catalogs online are out of date. What's the actual issue as to why you need to change/fix this module?

It might have been best to post up your full VCDS scan log. However this is what your HW number comes up with, interpret the values as you wish. It was recently dropped, for an updated part number.

No it was working fine...so bloody annoying

I was thinking about a bicycle pump on the open ended ambient pressure pipe. Look back and you will see my sneaky edit!

Cheers that's good to know, it did it feel very similar to my dad's transporter t6 dsg, it's like it waits to late to shift. Dunno just how I felt anyway. Im going to be booking alot more so I'll get a feel for them. Also Going to book some GTi mk7 in aswell.

Wow toot, thats amazing. I have been talking to some luck people at charging points as i am driving around. There are a couple of fast free chargers on the main cost road in wales, the person driving a huge audi, said she hasn't paid for any electric since she got it this january. But the people that do that know it's not going to last. They have put some free ones on a retail park near me, just a bit too far to walk and leave the car, but some people do leave it to charge up and go back later, takes hours as it's only a slow charger. But worth the effort as they only plod round locally so a full charge will last a while. Not pratical for the mileage i do Currently the company pays for all the diesel. We would have to pay for the electric with a return of 8p per mile, just wondering how other company car drivers pay for it? They all can't be driving round loosing money?

At a very simplified level Summer - Tyres that have big bands of rubber and few blocks. Harder rubber but sticky and still with good wear rate at higher temperatures Winter - Softer rubber, blocks, sipes All season - blocks , slightly softer rubber sometimes Nordic winters - Very much optimised winters, often studable or studded. Edit: Worth adding 20-30 years ago standard tyres were blocky and would get you home in a light dusting of snow. Modern “summer” tyres have been optimised for warm grub, shedding water, economy/rolling resistance and noise . Hence they are no longer made of many individual blocks of rubber but the bands we see. These bands have no grip on slush etc.

There is actually 3 of them, so ideally you need to know which one your looking for........if you have done any work "near" any of them, then thats the first port of call to see if they are plugged in etc.

Indeed, as long as it's cheap/free, it doesn't matter. I drove 110 miles today to spend half a day or so at a free museum. Used 37 kWh, probably more like 45 kWh from the plug account for battery precondition but still very pessimistic. That's just £3.40 for me. I took my parents to spend time with their grandson, also saves 2 households using their central heating. They are averaging £15 per day on heating last few days, today they only used £10. A net saving AND half day out. Of course lunch costed £25 and kid's activity sheet costed £1, but it's possible to spend less than staying at home if efforts were made with packed food. That's just mad.

Front springs L31 1K0411105DK 1K0 411 105 DK coil spring 3 paint marks orange 2 PR-L31 https://www.autodoc.co.uk/car-parts/oem/1k0411105dk?search=OEN+1K0411105DK&supplier[0]=85&supplier[1]=246&supplier[2]=85&supplier[3]=246 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/354419416797 Front shock absorbers G15 3C0413031AS 3C0 413 031 AS gas shock absorber 2 PR-G15 https://www.autodoc.co.uk/car-parts/oem/3c0413031as?search=OEN+3C0413031AS&supplier[0]=16 Skoda parts catalogue https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs/skoda/CZ/SUP/632/4/411/411001

According to Jurid on autodoc, 256mm front discs were fitted to cars up to and including 95HP. So for the Fabia MK3 1.2TSI 90HP and 1.0TSI 95HP 14" wheel will fits. 175/70R14 fitted to 5Jx14 ET35 5/100 57.1 rims is a standard tyre and rim size on the Fabia MK3. 175/70R14 has the same outside diameter and load index 84 (500kg) as the 185/60R15 tyre size. The 5Jx14 ET35 5/100 57.1 rim was used on cars such as the Fabia MK1/MK2/MK3. The Fabia MK1/MK2 used 165/70R14 tyres on this specification of rim whereas the later Fabia MK3 used 175/70R14 tyres on this specification of rim. Slightly oversize 185/70R14 fitted to the 5Jx14 ET35 5/100 57.1 rims would be a good alternative to 175/70R14 and 185/60R15 and give a super comfy ride. The Fabia MK4 has a 185/70R14 fitted to 5Jx14 ET38 5/100 57.1 option, although not necessarily in the UK where fashion dictates thin rubber bands. Vredestein Quatrac 5 185/70R14 88T https://www.camskill.co.uk/m137b0s7981p144829/Vredestein_Tyres_All_Season_Car_Vredestein_Quatrac5_Vredestein_Quatrac_5_-_185_70_R14_88T_TL_Fuel_Eff_%3A_D_Wet_Grip%3A_C_NoiseClass%3A_B_Noise%3A_69dB Skoda Fabia MK3 1.2TSI – Generation: Mk3 (NJ) [2015 .. 2022] – Market: EUDM – Power: 89 hp | 66 kW | 90 PS – Engine: 1.2L, CJZC, I4, Petrol – Options: Active, Ambition, Style, Monte Carlo – Center Bore: 57.1 mm – PCD: 5x100 – Wheel Fasteners: Lug bolts – Wheel Tightening Torque: 120 Nm – Thread Size: M14 x 1.5 – Trim Production: [2015 .. 2017] Tire Rim 185/60R15 84H 6Jx15 ET38 2.1 175/70R14 84T 5Jx14 ET35 2.1 215/45R16 85V 7Jx16 ET46 2.1 215/40R17 87T 7Jx17 ET46 2.2 Skoda Fabia 2017 1.0TSI – Generation: Mk3 (NJ) [2015 .. 2022] – Market: EUDM – Power: 94 hp | 70 kW | 95 PS – Engine: 1.0L, CHZB, I3, Petrol – Options: Active, Ambition, Style, Monte Carlo – Center Bore: 57.1 mm – PCD: 5x100 – Wheel Fasteners: Lug bolts – Wheel Tightening Torque: 120 Nm – Thread Size: M14 x 1.5 – Trim Production: [2017 .. 2018] Tire Rim 185/60R15 84T 6Jx15 ET38 2.1 175/70R14 85T 5Jx14 ET35 2.1 215/45R16 86T 7Jx16 ET46 2.1 215/40R17 87T 7Jx17 ET46 2.2 https://www.wheel-size.com/size/skoda/fabia/2017/#trim-12tsi-eudm-89

have a look at this link:-https://www.skoda-storyboard.com/en/skoda-world/innovation-and-technology/this-is-your-car-can-you-hear-me/

I've summarised a bunch of information about the rear setup in the thread below which should answer some of your questions. Front end is simpler in terms of the array of options. If you're doing shocks, it's a good idea to do springs too. Even new parts all around are not mad money, especially if you avoid dealer parts. Plenty of good aftermarket OEM options out there.

Hi all here is my new Skoda

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Blimey are you a fan/discipline of the likes of Novaxz Joke-a-blitz, some very minor health problems for a few people and less minor for a very few others. If owners actually feed their pets suitable food there would be much less hair loss for the majority of pets. At least this type of stuff you can see the sh!te that comes out of our car exhaust is among the ****e that's less visible (unless it's a VW , Audi diesel) sh1te that is doing a lot more harm to those on the roads and pavements and quite a distance from them too. If anyone needs or wants more protection for whatever they think they need that's fine, different strokes for different folks.

Leeds skyline

Just to dot the i's and cross the t's - this is the light that I am talking about. according to the owner's handbook it is the Emission Control System light.

I dont think that you have followed or understood what I was trying to explain, that the OP's vehicle probably has a battery management system whose aim is to not use fuel to charge the battery but instead use the alternator during braking and decelleration phases. Your figures are incorrect, no 12v vehicle battery will have 13.5v when not charging and with the engine running, it will be around 11.3v allowing for a partial charge leaving capacity for over-run charging and the voltage drop from the ECU and all the other active systems, significantly less as soon as the electric power steering is used although I expect the battery management system allows the alternator to charge under that condition. On a normal vehicle with a traditional charging system you may read 13.5v immediately after engine shutdown on a new battery but this will quickly drop to 12.7v as the battery cools and continue to drop slowly with the parasitic current draw. Unless you take the battery voltage after about 20 minutes and without waking up the canbus system (by shunting the bonnet closed contact) then you wont even see 12.7v, whenever I am doing a VCDS scan the terminal 30 voltage is under 12v. 11.3 volts is undercharged, or a partial charge for a battery management system vehicle, it will not result in a dead battery, it needs to drop below 10.5v for a long period for damage to occur, not transient volt drop like when cranking, the battery management system will not allow this to occur. In any case the 11.3 volts is a transient reading of the battery under a discharge load, the actual open circuit cell voltage measured without load (following the procedure) say 20 minutes after shut down I would expect to be between 12.3 and 12.7 volts, possibly slightly less.

Youre in luck, this is what youre after. https://www.glaskugelservice.de/codierung/dcc-auf-index-c https://github.com/jilleb/MQB-FPA The first link is bringing the DCC module up to the new spec. The second link is the CUSTOM driver profile file you have to make to accommodate the new values 1-15 not 1-3. Should be all you need.

Many thanks to Many thanks SashaGrace and the thread/community. I just had the same issue on my 2016 Diesel L&K and helped me fix the problem from the dreaded beeps happening one day. Bought some new struts off ebay for around £250 and just fitted and got the electric tailgate back thankfully. By far one of the most useful features on the car.