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I was told mine is now left the port and is in transit. Possibly could be before Christmas but more likely in the new year.

I got some good news, it seems that my company car is ready at the factory and it will be handed over to me in the beginning of the new year.

I have had a VW ID.4 for the past 18 months, so here's my two penn'orth. There were some issues with early MEB cars (ID.3) discharging the 12V battery. This was fixed by a change in the charging algorithm in ID software version 2.1, so all cars built since early 2021 have the fix. There was a further update to the 12V battery with the VW 2.4 software update (V3.0 on Skoda) where the 12V battery was replaced for a one with a different chemistry. VW (like many legacy manufacturers) specified their normal 12V battery that is intended to be used for high amp short duration cranking operations for an ICE, where an EV 12V needs to be able to sustain low amp long duration operations such as software updates or controlling pre-heating. This requirement is more akin to a caravan / camper leisure battery than a 'starter battery'. All cars manufactured since March / April will have the new 12V battery. So with the above said, I have had no problem leaving my car standing for a week (possibly two once or twice?) without the 12V going flat. My car came with the newer 12V charging algorithm but didn't get the new 12V battery until August 2022. I have never found it necessary to top up the traction battery while the car has been standing, the drain from charging the 12V battery is miniscule compared to the energy stored in the traction battery. 'Vampire Drain' that affected earlier Teslas is not a thing with the MEB cars. HTH

I did make it quite clear in the first post that I don't have a VRS (my username is probably 10+ years old back from when I did have a VRS). I do miss my old VRS but I dare say my current Fabia is better in some ways. Really I need to get rid and buy something more suitable hence me asking about towbars but I can't bring myself to sell it, it's too good and there's absolutely no faults with the car whatsoever. That's a picture of my original Fabia VRS when I bought it in 2009.

Update I had the battery tested by the RAC earlier today - results are below. So, there is nowt wrong with the battery. In fact he was quite surprised that a 7 year old 680en battery was showing a test rating of 671 and it was holding its charge OK. However, it was only showing a 47% charge, which he supposed was caused by very short local journeys, which I confirmed to be correct so he told me to shove it on the C-Tek overnight and take it for a decent run tomorrow using as little load as possible and then put it back on the charger for 24 hours. Finally - and this was interesting - he said when it does fail, he confirmed that firstly, the replacement battery would be adapted to the car and secondly, they would replace the current EFB with an AGM unit, primarily so the RAC can be assured it should outlast their 5 Year battery warranty, as they still experience early failures of OE EFB units.

If the headlight washers are used in freezing conditions and the screenwash is not strong enough for the conditions, the headlight washer can freeze in the extended position, which what you’ve witnessed.

Be sure to get your Windscreen Wash at the correct ratio for the weather you might experience. Maybe -10*oC washer fluid. Or even for lower than that. Not that you might get a spray on the windscreen or the headlights if the pipes or nozzles freeze. Do not be surprised if the headlight washer get stuck, as in closed or open at some point.

Headlight washers. Try using the windscreen washer when the headlights are on.

Ahhh man, I'm sorry to hear that. Without regurgitating what I said before, you'll get to where you want to be. Your 'head doctor' as you put it, will be one of the best folk to see you through it as well. You'll always have us here backing you up too, of course. Good luck in your upcoming session, I'm sure it'll be onwards and upwards from here, or something like that. 🤞

My VRS is at the dealers, picking it up tomorrow (snow allowing) 🙂

Sounds like a GPF doing a regeneration cycle? Search here for GPF and you will find a few results.

Rufford Park late now virtually all frozen over 🥶

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. I think you might be better using a better and more suitable oil for your use and do thorough ('hot' and long drains rather than 'cold' and quick) oil and filter changes every 10,000 km same or lot less cost and less work and probably more effective for use and maintenance. Yes but the engine will not be brand new, reliably warranted, easy to install and maintain, fit and forget for very many years, reliable performance improvement including perhaps some fuel economy. But I understand about the cost, you have to consider the benefits and how long you keep the car and how much you use it. Redone the figures for tyre size. 3rd - 3,000 / 61 kph - (1,987 / 40 kph) 4th - 3,000 / 83 kph - (2,195 / 61 kph) 5th - 3,000 / 109 kph - (2,320 / 83 kph) 3rd - 5,000 / 103 kph - (3,312 / 67 kph) 4th - 5,000 / 140 kph - (3,658 / 103 kph) 5th - 5,000 / ---------- - (3,867 / 140 kph) Also discovered graphs lower down the page where I had never ventured before.

Evening all. I've spent the last half an hour or so searching the forum some advice on towbars but all I can find is info on the VRS. (Mine isn't a VRS) I'm considering fitting a towbar but I'd ideally not want to spoil the look of it so I was considering a detachable towbar but if I have to cut the bumper then is it worth just going with a swan neck. Does anybody have a picture of their towbar please so I can get an idea of how it would look.

I was tempted to try this as well, but it seems more like a band aid solution if anything, if my DPF is really that heavily clogged. I’m looking for a long term solution so I hopefully won’t have this issue again, since I very rarely drive short journeys unlike the previous owner. Hopefully someone knows, otherwise I will update with the process.

picking up our 2019 Superb Sportline on Friday. Needing winter tyres, dog guards, roof bar fittings and boot liner. Recommended to join by @Spyderjon having just missed all of his Superb kit.

Dont worry about letting other folk down ,when your having such a hard time as your going through concentrate on getting to the good side again ,ime sure everyone who knows you will understand ,be a tad selfish and look after you ,your good friends and colleagues will be happier to see you happy,good luck mate ,i know there just words but ive been in a couple of deep holes myself ,but time friends and talking really do help get you out 👍

It’s -11c atm but I’m in a nice warm living room with the fire going nicely, cheeky little bottle of red Vino Collapso being consumed. Going back out is deffo above and beyond. Will have a look tomorrow, though due to be warmer and snowing.

They went and showed it to Mike's Dad when finished this one. One cool dude, it must be someplace as a full vid or it gets repeated.

Any one know why the PHEV charging socket is not designed such that the flap can be closed when the charging cable is inserted? This would seem like a better Idea than leaving the flap, which is not all that robust, open when charging? I wonder how long it will be before a system like a vacuum cleaner cable retractor is used to keep things neat? I assume the PHEV has a safety interlock that prevents you driving off with the charging cable attached.

Good explanation @varooom . My battery is only half a year old and in good condition, ( tested it yesterday it still has 680 cranking amps) but the cold and cold startings take their toll. Best to do; long runs and few cold starts. ( better for the dpf to)

The extra tickover speed, if the car is not doing a regen then the J519 controller will be increasing the revs, and at the same time will turn off (override) high energy demanding items. This time of year, when you have additional needs on the battery, this will take over, and increase the idle speed. If the battery you have now is tired @EP90 then this is why the revs are increased. @Bas750 This will be the clicking noises you are hearing when your car has low stored battery SoC (State of Charge)

I don't believe I had the OCU changed to fix my Pop Pop SOS issue. After "charging the battery of the SOS unit" failed to achieve anything, "the software in the unit was updated". Which appears to have fixed the issue (4 weeks now.....). In another thread, Varoom refers to the TPI relating to this fault not being correctly applied. Perhaps this is the case here but you do have to take dealer statements with a pinch of salt. The complexity of the issue may be beyond some dealers... . The number of faults JamesK reports does seem to indicate a more difficult issue than I had. But my car did have the mad bonging of the "Front Assist not available" fixed in April.

Rang the dealer today to see there had been any movement on my order, apparently the factory have accepted the order and will hopefully start the build on or around the 16th of January with a possible delivery date to the dealer towards the end of February.

I will send you a link soon via Private message function.

When reversing the cabin air intake flaps should close. If there is an issue it might lay with that.

Hi, here is an update from the parking sensor issue I've been expeiencing. When the fault first occured 3 weeks ago, I got a long beep when selecting reverse and a message on the infotainment saying that park pilot was unavailable. I did the usual things of rebooting the infotainment, removing the fuse for the infotainment, disconnecting the battery for 10 mins, spraying the sensors with WD40 etc etc. As none of these things worked, I spoke to a local VW/Audi specialist and although he is cheaper than a main stealer, I couldn't justify the cost of a garage. As previously mentioned, I took the plunge and got the full system scanner and found the fault. It is also very important to note that the correct sensor is purchased as I found out (which delayed the time taken to solve the issue). I fitted the sensor this morning and it didn't fix the problem and gave another fault code. I scratched my head for a couple of minutes and decided to unplug the sensor and turn it around 180 degrees and that sorted the the issue. As you have probably gathered by now, some sensors, if not all, can be connected the wrong way round! I have attached 2 photos, one of the original fault code and one of the second fault code when the plug was fitted incorrectly. The system is now back up and running at a financial cost of £105 for the scanner and £12 for a sensor. The mechanic said I could easily be looking at £200 (depending on the fault) which is why I bought the scanner and I now have that for any future issues which I have no doubt that there will be more. The scanner will also register new batteries (if needed), carry out a forced DPF regen and so much more. I hope this helps 🤞

Thanks for your reply varoom, i've just spotted the other thread on this problem, so it's not just mine. It does it for the first 200/300 yards then it works fine. I'll have to try an update.

Mine started doing this when it was 2 years old. As you say only when cold and damp. I never got to the bottom of the problem or bothered to fix it as it was so intermittent.

Take the engine cover off and you can see it. Either needs a deep socket or spanner to remove. Think the spanner was easier

I have a factory fitted towbar on my 1.4 16V estate, it looks just about the same as those pics except that mine has more layers of dirt. There is no cutting of the bumper involved.

Woohoo! It worked! This a very nasty bug! It worked only after I've enter twice 20103 code in the Security Access menu. I still have that open ticket with Voltas Support. One more time, many thanks to you guys octavianx and Mario_Delgado

I have to confess my all-time average of 3.9 mi/kWh for Leaf is due to driving slower during winter commute so I can minimise not-home charging. Also probably due to not driving Leaf when temperature is extremely cold, icy or snow because I had all-season on my previous Octavia. I got around 2.9 mi/kWh in the Tesla over the weekend with -4c to 0c temperature. Drove it like I normally drive in these conditions: safe distances and more slow down for turns but no holding back with speed on well maintained motorways/dual. Just snowed here. Just typical: when I had all-season tyres, snow didn't persist on the ground. When I have summer tyres snow stays on the ground and temperature is freezing for days.

Taa daa here I am. I bought a PCT fixed flange towbar from Towsure. I was going to go for a Swan-neck one but I always think they stick out a bit too much. Yes yes I know, a 1.2 12v with a towbar is a bit optimistic etc etc A small cut was made in the very bottom of the bumper but you can't see that unless you're under the car. Fitting was easy enough as well. You'll need to take the rear wheels and arch tub plastic liners out to properly mount it as well. I have a sheet of paper somewhere that'll tell you which wires you need connect to the electrics plugs. I'll have a rummage about the paperwork stack tonight. Here's some photos that I took. And more recently when I've been out with the trailer... For the likes of taking it to the tip with garden waste, it's ideal, and keeps the inside of my car quite a bit cleaner. That last photo was from my last trip with the trailer, lugging steel wheels down to Kirkcudbright.

Agree with the above. I just looked up the relevant ETKA page via LLL parts and the (genuine, new) prices of the alternators had me gasping a bit! There's one or two part numbers that go into 4 figures. 😲 LLLParts

A free tool for you. I'm glad it didn't get caught in a belt. Results could be disastrous.

They are saying 4 to 6 months at the moment, but you might get lucky. The demonstrator our local dealer had was exactly the spec we wanted, but they had sold it the day before!

The word 'Skoda' in Czech translates as ''damage'' 😉

Found one of his....

Hello everyone. I have a Skoda Superb Estate TDI 170 4WD. I have had the car for a few weeks and so far I have enjoyed driving it. I live near Colchester in Essex but make frequent trips t County Durham and to Scotland.

I would change it now if it was my battery, no sense getting stuck on the side of the road freezing cold as the engine has stopped running.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. @R_Blue my post wasn't meant to be entirely serious, other than pets getting feed rubbish food that means they do not always have good coats and skin and shed a lot. I'd no idea what slobs and litterers you have, fur/hair even from poorly feed animals squashes down to next to nothing to take very little waste bin space. I think protecting your own health is pretty important but there are limits but as with car problems health problems need proper diagnosis from the experts I can one-thousand-percent tell you that from personal experience. Separately, only yesterday my wife told me of her friend's husband who had collapsed they thought with Anaphylactic shock and was under hospital care. He as a young lad had seen his father suffer the same thing from mushrooms so all his life he would not touch mushrooms and so neither does his own daughter. He was tested for food allergies and from what my wife was told it was practically all foods - but not including mushrooms! That night my wife went to an Xmas meal and for decades she has got a sniffy or running nose from eating or drinking but now it's from first thing when she gets up in the morning. An ex-dentist was at the meal and noticed the use of tissues and said it was not uncommon and to deep breath menthol before even getting out of bed. She has not had the opportunity to to get any to try. So get tested, it might be dog hairs and other crap your residents think of as city life or it might be something else or that and something else. Yeah and do you get your money back if it doesn't work after a nebular explosion. 🤣

Just come back from shopping via Zig Zag hill in the snow. But I had my secret weapon fitted, some Three Peak Mountain Snowflake Marked tyres. Swapped / Fitted them again back in November from the Summers. The car struggles when the snow is more than 4 inches deep. 😲 ( not today ) Thanks. AG Falco

@Orman You may wish to use VCDS to generate a log of the rpm vs. pressure readings. Off Idle 1,000 rpm to 2,500 rpm These are the values that can determine if the sensor is reading sensible values or not.

I’ve got all my dcc parts, once it’s been done on my own car and all kinks ironed out, I’ll be offering it. Probably won’t be for 6 months though sorry

I drove a 600cc 2CV 30hp if I was in the way of a more powerful truck (provided it was safe to do so) I would move out and let him by then quickly get behind and slipstream him (this is an unsafe maneuver)

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. I did not realise your road was all dual-carriageway I would be very bored with that after a 5 or 10 mile blast I like roads not much wider than a narrow car. I do not know the rounding of numbers in the calculator I have but on your ratios with 165/70/13 tyres it comes out with (if(?) I have input correctly and converted mph to kph correctly). ETA: the figures in the brackets are from the gear change. - 3rd - 3,000 / 58 kph - (1,987 / 38 kph) 4th - 3,000 / 80 kph - (2,195 / 58 kph) 5th - 3,000 / 102 kph - (2,320 / 80 kph) 3rd - 4,000 / 80 kph - (2,649 / 53 kph) 4th - 4,000 / 93 kph - (2,927 / 80 kph) 5th - 4,000 / 141 kph - (3094 / 93 kph) 3rd - 5,000 / 100 kph - (3,312 / 66 kph) 4th - 5,000 / 137 kph - (3,658 / 100 kph) 5th - 5,000 / 177 kph - (3,867 / 137 kph) If you think of 3,250 -5,000 rpm being the powerband, and it might not be with your car, and if my figures are correct you will see only about 5,000 rpm in 2nd, 3rd and 4th will get you in the band on these figures. You do not have a racing gearbox or racing gearing so if you drive like that Felica guy you will be putting additional stress and wear on tour engine and transmission. Same for changing up just before the rev limiter, do you even have a rev limiter other than yourself, is your car capable of being pushed to the 5,000 rpm let alone more without regret. A test on a level empty open road is fine but be sure what your car's limits are first, top fuel dragsters can go to 161 kph in 0.8 second but the engine is completely stripped down and built back up every 1/4 mile (400m) run and the gearbox, clutch and fuel are slightly different and even then they often break. You do not need an oil gauge, you may want one but that is a different matter, it may help you or just give you more to worry about. If the engine is NOT being laboured then 3,000 rpm all day long is fine but if you feel losses it can be because of other than or as well as engine oil, this is why I prefer a good quality oil in an oil car, a synthetic oil will offer more protection and for longer and deal with the heat (and cold) better generally but it can't make up for any engine issues (well perhaps a very little by allowing a limp home rather than roadside stop(s). What is synthetic and what is 'synthetic' as a marketing term is a different matter, but a good oil is a good oil whatever it is or called. For the gearbox with how you are driving the car and want to if you like Castrol this might be a better oil for you, Castrol TRANSMAX Manual Transaxle fully synthetic that's suitable for you but also as with the engine oil change the thotoughness of the change is important. It was the 123ignition fully electronic dissy that I was referring to, I had the basic what they now call "switch", another Renault "switch" might include curves suitable to your car but you would have to enquire and note the LPG. -https://123ignition.com/products/page/2/?filter_brand=renault The cost of it must be considered as spread over time and mileage and the improvements you could get (starting, idling, throughout the rev range, no farting about with points or messing around with timing once properly set). Well that's enough for one night, if you can get a 75w-90 the 90 should be better at high temperatures particular a good 75w-90.

So, Ordered Nov 2021. Was told March 2022, then June 2022 then they had no clue. Car went into production in March, was awaiting final assembly for months then. Lost all hope, and if I'm honest, interest too... Was going to cancel my order when a random Saturday in August I got the video that it was in the dealers ready to go, just needed to be registered. Took delivery at the end of August after a long (worthwhile) wait. Phoenix Orange TDI vRS Saloon. Front and rear sensors and wireless charging were the only extras I requested. Didn't really care about the alcantara interior, certainly not for the price anyways!! It began to wear on my superb after a while anyways. I do miss my sunroof though and my electric seat :P

I replaced my Kodiaq.....with another Kodiaq. Went into the search with an open mind and it came out top again. When the children get older I may well have to get a larger car but for the moment the Kodiaq is the best option.

You do make a compelling argument, a new revised Sportline would fit the bill. 👍😃