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Oooh fightin' talk 💪 😎 So, if I get the Juke to start, with this battery....? Money where your mouth is - I want at least a four bar Kit-Kat, or even a double Snickers if I do. And I'll obviously reciprocate if I fail. G

Bonjour, Welcome to the community. For the sake of everyone, the community language is English. I don’t mind native language posts, if they also have a translation. I know you can’t edit your post, so I’ll drop a google translation below. Hello hi ciao Owner of a 2014 Octavia 4x4 2l I came across your forum while looking for information on this car which I find top notch and above all very practical. Passionate about cars, I spend a lot of time tinkering and maintaining my vehicles. My family is my second passion.... but I must admit that my Skoda is less capricious than my wife 😅 friendly Fred

Rain drops in torchlight......

Whne you are at standstill and you lift the clutch take up drive (just enough for the car to lurch forward a but do you hav any noise then, like a slight clunk from the rear . I get that from play in a slightly worn donut joint conn3cting the drive shaft to the rear diff/ axle. This gives a bit of a hum from the rear when driving along as I suppose the slight looseness translates a vibration noise when driving. I still think the haldex/diff scares dealers a bit as its a bit of a mystery that they arnt allowed to mess on with other than a complete swap and many techs aren't daily drivers of quaytro cars so may not be familiar with its daily noises.

Kust to conbfirm that these are SOLD - collected this morning by Mike. Once again, thanks to everyone for your interest. John.

Bonjour salut ciao Propriétaire d une Octavia 4x4 2l de 2014 je suis tombé sur votre forum en recherchant des informations sur cette voiture que je trouve top et surtout très pratique. Passionné par l automobile je passe beaucoup de temps à bricoler et entretenir mes véhicules. Ma famille est ma seconde passion.... mais je dois avouer que ma Skoda et moins capricieuse que ma femme😅 amicalement Fred

You know, there's something vaguely unsettling about a man being that attached to his stool ... I just wish I could say the same about me ...

I'll go with a 3rd option....it may charge...but will it hold and keep re-charging in general use? 🤔

Well now that Olduns Pub Bingo may be about to disappear, I need a new, high stakes, gambling fix.

Bored, Dear?

Oooh a new game. Battery Bingo. Admittedly, there isn't much choice in the answers, but it's a start.

Merging to save confusion/split brain

Don't know what happened there but tried to say that Toot makes a good point. Skoda dealers won't strip the haldex to clean the internal filter as skoda reckons this isn't needed. A good indie garage will do this as they know it gets gunked up.

Change the Guibo coupling, its purpose is to reduce driveline NVH. That does not sound like a worn differential. Assuming that you had not had a Haldex service done shortky before the noise started and that when the diff oil was drained it was not discoloured and did not have metallic debris then I would be confident that it does not need a new differential, I would have zero confidence in the diagnosis by the Skoda dealer. I could be wrong, it will cost you £6500 to tell me so!!!! A second hand diff would be a lot cheaper, they were between £200 and £400 when I was looking, I would not even spend that and the labour on the basis of what you have said, I would replace the Guibo coupling which should have been the first thing the garage did. Please update if it does or does not resolve the problem, why? because after damaging my diff by draining the wrong fluid I still have some transmission noise just like yours, I bought a Guibo coupling but have yet to fit it as on second inspection I decided that mine was not actually fractured, the split line is intended and is present on the new one, nonetheless the new one may result in noise reduction, its a difficult job that I have been putting off. In response to the question in your thread title, what "standard warranty" do you believe that you have on a 6 year old vehicle?

Overheating caused by corrosion of the cable crimp, I think. Does it work when you bypass the fuse as shown in last three photos? The cable next to it, which feeds the cabin fusebox, looks bad too, maybe water has been getting there somehow? Is the cover missing?

Write @ApertureS to get his attention. [done for your here, for future you know how @ then name] He is North London, and will answer with price now tagged, if this is not too far for you to travel.

Do you mean which tools are required to replace them or which other parts should you consider replacing at the same time? There's not much else to the rear suspension - bushes for the rear beam, shocks and top mounts. Mine has had shocks (Bilstein) and top mounts done. Bushes rarely need doing. Replacing the shocks, springs or top mounts is pretty straightforward. Get both wheels off the ground (don't put a trolley jack in the centre of the rear beam to do this!) and secure on axle stands. Remove wheels. Use a jack under the spring and undo the lower shock absorber bolt. Lower the jack until you can remove the spring. The most tricky bits will be freeing bolts that might not have moved for about 20 years - use release spray and be patient. Also take care to put things back together in the right order when replacing shocks/top mounts. Edit: The above is for 2wd models, the rear suspension is different on 4x4 models and I'm not familiar with them.

The air inside the car is going to be slightly warmer than the air outside of it, especially if you are in the car, that slight difference between the two makes a difference in the way that the air conditioning system works and it works a bit quicker than normal if you are using the recirculation button. It also uses less fuel.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. I found the Owner's Manual drawing for the fusebox in the engine bay didn't match what was in my wife's car when sorting the wiper arm stalk. According to to our 2015 Owner's Manual the fusebox in the cabin for a RHD car has top row far right fuse as fuse "22 Front- and rear windscreen wiper system" and bottom row about middle of row fuse "46 Front and rear window washer, operating lever under the steering wheel" - very unhelpfully they don't give amp rating or colour.

photo update. its a chunk, plenty cabin space, but the boot isnt any roomier than an octavia, different shape, so volume pretty close i think, but i reckon octy still has it (mk2 at least..) headlights are good and bright, but do have that fuzzy blue light edge of the beam pattern on dims that i see on and annoys me with other cars. full leather seats are comfortable, and the back up camera assistant is pretty good - not sure where the cameras are for the above right screen trickery, presumably somewhere along roof rails? dash display is alright and its an auto.. that keeps changing its mind about what gear to be in at most of the local speed limits only 5000 odd km on it, so hard to tell how well stuck together it all is, but feels solid, other than some previous renter managed to break a clip off one of the parcel shelf string mounts, so that side keeps falling out and hanging weird.and said parcel shelf looks abit warped. i must ask the BIL how the bev ine is going, just havnt been able to talk to him much lately

I had a genius idea… so people complain of the wireless phone charger overheating a lot. so my solution. where the pipe leaves the heater box to run to the glovebox to cool it (always cold air) T off of it with a 6mm silicone tube and route it 30cm or so to the back of the phone charger pad, small 8mm hole in the back of the cubby area and you’ll have constantly cold air running across the pad and phone. would be completely out of sight and look no different but with that added benefit just a passing thought

UPDATE: I got the sleeve out. It was actually part of the sensor if anybody else is reading this forum in future. See the image attached. The rest of the sensor needed to be pulled out with needle nose pliers after lots of persuasion. The next problem for me is that the new sensor will not go in. It takes a lot of force to get back in. If anybody has any ideas how to get it back in it would be appreciated. Otherwise i will update when i find the solution

Sorry, just realised that it's the part number of the sensor retaining bolt you wanted...

8:30pm sitrep..... Well it's still drawing circa 3 amps from my trusty old style battery charger (possibly mid 1980's vintage). No leaks, cracks, or bulges 👍 I dried it late afternoon, but there was some more (albeit less) condensation just now. The battery's not warm. Decided to not leave it on charge overnight, so have switched it off and will put it back on charge in the morning. A bit slow compared to Pub Bingo, but I'm quite looking forward to finding out how it fares. Until tomorrow..... Gaz PS: Yes, it's an EFB PPS: Stanley (the stool - first pic) is older than the battery charger. Been with me, man and boy, and has even been with me to car meets for chums to meet 😁

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Keeping on a low rate of charge, (2, 3 4 amps) there's no rush but it might take a couple of days. Switch it off after it's picked up a bit and let it rest for 30 minutes or thereabouts or how you feel and switch back on to charge. You might try this again later or not depending on how you feel. I give the battery about 75% chance (or more) but it depends on how you do, 😄 do you keep patience in stock. If it's stop/start and EFB battery you're not supposed to go above 14.8v charge and not overcharge it, and some would say you need an appropriate charger but keep your eye on things and all will end well as you're going. I've been charging my neighbours batteries for decades now but some have now got these stop/start things with the computer programs and EFB batteries. I charged a very old battery that was being used for garage lighting for a neighbour as he just leaves it lying on the sub-zero garage floor. It had a dry cell too but he had some of the right water. I didn't use my 30+ year old 4 amp charger but my 20+ year old "smart" charger/maintainer, it got the battery to just about full charge but the cranking power was still low so we tried his 12 amp charger/analyser as I was using it to check the battery I put the 12 amp charger to "Recondition mode", it killed the battery the charge decreased to below 12v. I get the **** taken out of me (which is fine, sometimes good) for putting it's best to do a long low slow charge and off the car in my stable (and warm at the moment) conditions. IIRC batteries like +5c to +20c and for charging they don't like 30c and even more 40c so that extreme summer weather would have weaken batteries that now fall over in the cold weather. My wife's Fabia Mk3 had a new AGM battery about 18 months ago and although she does a lot of short journeys last few weeks she's been getting in 2 or three longer shopping runs. No signs or inclination that the battery needed charging but I wanted prevention and not cure and to try out my new (£23.49) smart charger as it does AGM and operates down to -20C. Only -2c but the 18 month old AGM battery on the car with no signs of at all of battery being a bit low - took 17 hours in total to fully recharge. I'm changing to 95% you can do it, I've had two failures so nothing's a 100% but you might be better than me, I'm no expert. 😄

Many do the same, but then the tyres on a fabia mk3 with 16" rims are not like 'Rubber Bands'. 205/40 R 17's on a Mk2 Fabia vRS are.

I hereby dub thee "Number Five".

Can you unplug the supply to the rear of the radio and replace the fuse? See what reading that gives. There maybe something else in the circuit.

It will. Dont know about the modern heating film layer (only have experience since 2019), but my previous Superb, 2014 make and done about 460 000 km, works flawlessly for my friend, who owns it now. Still, wired heating, as on Superb, is more efficient, than the film layer option.

Thank you very kindly! I will update this thread the moment all the parts arrive and i'll start on the build. so that it becomes easier for others

For J type slow plug fuses it uses male terminals and female sockets on the back of the fuses. For the engine ECU - please confirm this yourself!!! But the plug part number is quite possibly 5q0906385 for the 94 pin and the terminals that fit this are 000979026E, 000979030E and 000979246E (these are all pigtail smallest wire sizes) Heres a link to cross reference the pins https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1ABr4i_IWGl3KxmSV6Q51_fn2w9AO6C8tdG6cdbPowdk/edit#gid=0

Thanks a Mill for the info Pete ... I went through it all and it was like you said above - All fuses were intact and I replaced #6 with a fuse rather than wire 9 This wont make any difference I know but a fuse is there for a reason) Next step is to take out the airbox and disconnect the plug of the ABS pump and make sure that I am getting 12v at pin #7 and #25 If that all works out we can be certain that the pump is gone. Thanks again Pete - Really appreciated !

Update to come in the next few days.... Didn't change the fuse. Temperature came up to 3 degrees today (-8 and -10 pretty much for the last 10 days) and it's now making a noise again although not delivering water. Will leave it to Monday when the temperature remarkably should be 14 degrees and try it then!

Yes. i've posted pictures with and without the fuse.

At 9 years old I'd not even bother; just replace it. BTW there should be a date code in some form on the battery in case it's not as original as is thought ...

I have the Ctek battery sense (no longer available) on both of our cars and they are connected to the +ve terminal of the battery and the earthing point on the chassis (where the -ve terminal of the battery connects) and both work faultlessly. M8 will be ample, from memory they are something like M6.

Lovely car love the stripes

Yeah - I actually went outside to check fluids yesterday and had a look myself, and realised it would be a tough job to do through the engine bay. My memory was playing tricks re: doing it with my old Mk6 Fiesta ZS, apologies - forgot how 'full' the Octavia's is. It may well be a 'specialist tool' job, using tweezers or something to put the bolt behind your honeycomb grill, then affixing carefully with thin spanners / similar. Presumably, you're looking at ones like this?

Looks like water... What is your location?

Is it a Karoq you have now or is it the Octavia? A mod can move it from the Karoq Guide section. Which ever car, how many miles, what engine / gearbox, any more info like when serviced and inspected or MOT'd or just looked at? Maybe go to a tyre and exhaust centre if there is no local garage that can put it on a ramp for you to look see & report.

That’s because Skoda won’t fit factory front ones, they will fit nasty aftermarket ones. I fit factory parts that work how it would on a Skoda that left the factory with it.

Hi, I was set to buy an XC70 as out new sensible family car. I borrowed my brothers MK1 Octavia tdi VRS PD estate for a week and loved it so much...... I picked up a Mk2 CR for myslef this week. 2010 with 80k on it. Love the car, except the head unit with no Bluetooth!! I intend to look at sensible engine and suspension tuning options from the Skoda community

Just wandering around the North Cape of Norway (as you do) via Google Street View..... https://www.google.com/maps/@70.9766757,25.7912167,3a,75y,264.05h,88.67t/data=!3m6!1e1!3m4!1sPEQkRScmgnZdw0QAhkBrRQ!2e0!7i16384!8i8192 Is this the furthest-north Yeti pic? Best wishes for Christmas and the New Year to you all 🥂

For what its worth then, I hope your order arrives ahead of mine then.. Sorry to read your circumstance.

Not uncommon for the fuse to blow for the windscreen washer pump when the water is frozen and the washers are used. Cheaper to replace a fuse than a pump. The one pump does both windscreens. Thanks. AG Falco

But it does. http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/445467-dsg-equipped-cars-second-thermostat

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. The trick is to charge the battery before the start/stop packs in and fully recharge the battery as soon as the start/stop, er, stops often this will require more than just driving the vehicle but the use of a suitable battery charger left on long enough to fully charge the battery not just a wham, bam, thank you mam. 😄 Perhaps you could have got longer (or even lot longer) out of all three batteries by recharging them sooner. 😉 😄 I know it's not always convenient to do the job properly. I wanted to recharge the 18 month old AGM battery on my wife's car this weekend because it does lots of very short journeys, is always parked outside (we're not wealthy enough to have a garage just hard-luck standing) and it's -1.7c now and IIRC we've seen -13c (without wind chill factor) before. If it doesn't need much it doesn't matter as my latest (and newest by 20+ years) charger is also a maintainer, has a winter setting and works to -20c and is IP65 (£23.49) so it can work outside. My wife is keen to get it done as only this week she had to use the keyblade to get into the car as the remote battery died and this set the car alarm off and she'd forgotten the procedure to get over this - get the key in ignition and switched on quick! But then I forgot and set the alarm off when synchronising the remote after battery change and forgot you had to pull and hold the handle to get the keyblade to operate properly as I didn't follow my own advice and RtFM because I was being a Billy-big-b*ll*cks that thought he already knew. 😜 But wot a palaver VW want to put owners through and they say the German don't have sense of humour. 😄

I'd have said that a traffic stream that is still moving has priority over one that has stopped, and thereby ceded priority. The only exceptions to this involve signage and/or road markings.

Totally agree. Always best to use fresh premium brand batteries. @Davidr1986 your dealer may have had them lying around for a while or be bulk buying in-branded ones.