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If you take the glovebox off the fan should be straight in front of you held in by about 5 screws. From memory there are plenty of videos on YouTube for the Fabia that should be pretty much identical and will help explain. Good luck!

This view caught my eye on the way home this evening............

Both in case of 1.3, as it uses fan from non-ac 1.6. I can understand reason behind that, as neitherrelay and switch are 100% reliable (espwcially in the engine bay environment) and putting them in series increases chance of failure. I don't think this is good place for unit with exposed contacts, I'd put it closer to the battery or get enclosed relay box. (ideally both)

That's brilliant, thank you. It's where I suspect it would be from what little I'd found online. Time to find a friend with ramps! Should be. I did hit a 1-2 inch deep puddle on the offside about a week ago so perhaps that's the trigger. On three short journeys yesterday and today the warning hasn't come up. I'll still see if I can get a look at it though. Thank you everyone at Briskoda Kind regards, Alec

This ^^ plus the EGR isn’t an issue anymore like in the PD and early CR VW engines. Almost no failures or issues are reported about EA288 engines 1.6 and 2.0 in this forum. No need of a race pipes, intake manifold cleaning, etc. Blocking it won’t give you any performance improvements. Do regular oil changes, some “Italian tune up” from time to time and optionally a tank of premium diesel every 3-4 fill ups. EGR helps you get up to the operating temperature quicker which is already a bit slow process on these engines. And also decreases the engine wear due to the same reason. For the DPF, leave it to complete its regens when possible.

I have one with 17k miles fsh, totally original and only serviced/items replaced with genuine parts. As mentioned, they do exist but this isn’t daily driven

The DPF and EGR are there for a purpose. Deleting them, blanking then or gutting them is illegal and will invalidate your insurance.

I never understand the illogical decisions MM’s make regarding warranty replacement of faulty parts. The damage it does to the product reputation of the is immense, any possibility of a repeat purchase is dramatically reduced and the actual cost to the two companies (dealer and manufacturer) is huge; financially and in terms of poor PR. If they’d just replaced the unit when it was identified it was faulty, the time and money saved would’ve more than covered the replacement cost. And of course, the customer is delighted. 20 years ago, Skoda was fantastic in all these areas and now there the same as all the others. What a bunch of idiots….

Real life where the 0-62 mph time and the very powerful bit did not matter in anyway. 'He did stick to the speed limit though'. Well amazeballs. Next time film breaking the speed limit.

In case my last post didn't get through, I just wanted to thank all you guys for your replies-very useful info. I've decided to fit the Bosch AMG S5A08 with the five year g'tee. My regular garage will be re-coding and fitting it. Not the cheapest-£225 all-in-but it's who I trust with any work -its still owned and run by the same family since 1896, and they've looked after my cars for over 50 years...

Thanks for the quick answers 😊 Yes the dealers fit the wheels. I’ve checked the tire pressure. It was 2.6 in front and 2.8 in the back. I’ve changed it to 2.4 in front and 2.5 in the back, plus resat the TPMS. I’ll mention the transport block when i’m at the dealer… really hope they have removed them though, although it doesn’t feel like that when at higher speeds 🫣

My thoughts as well.

i can't accept wagons, because their dirt rear window in bad weather and louder road noise from the rear my choice were Superb Mk3 2016 220ps FWD and after 7 years/122k Km it will be swapped by Superb Mk3.5 2023 280ps AWD mostly because huge space in trunk, Superb hatchback's trunk is bigger than most SUVs have, four full size 225/55r17 rims without landing seats

I think this might suit quite nicely... 20220205_145939.mp4

Happy new year!! Recent photos catchup We've moved into our new home in Taranaki The Audi is now our daily driver Meri kirihimete By the river Dusty driveways And clean again Flash garage, or car parked in the lounge/office? Using the ur as a daily has been going well. It's driving nicely, and seems to be doing okay on fuel usage too. It's pretty practical especially since adding the roof rack. It has been very hot here over Christmas so the lack of aircon makes it a sometimes sweaty driving experience but it's kinda nice to go back to old-school windows-down driving. I've had no real issues but a few new trim rattles and squeaks have surfaced. I'm getting a slight suspension knock again so need to look at that. Warm starting can sometimes be a little tricky and it often catches then runs really lumpy for a few seconds as though one or two cylinders aren't firing. I'm on the hunt for some smaller wheels as I can't help feeling that on these country driveways and potholed roads that the 18s are shaking my car apart. I'd love a set of nice 16s but so far all I can find that are the correct fitment are coming in at 4-5 grand for a set and I just can's justify that right now with a newly built house to finish off. The cheapest, most sensible option is refurb the 15s and run wrongly-sized tyres so I'll pursue that when local businesses re-open after the break. Possibly related to this, possibly not is that I have developed cracks in my bodywork! This is very worrying and I will get it sorted ASAP. Sunroof on the driver side where it was cut for rust repairs Driver side, back of door sill

Final night time walk in 2022 (with a very bright torch😁) - best wishes to you all for 2023👍

I wondered this, but sensor won’t operate unless key is really close. i think i may have cracked the problem, and i feel pretty stupid. As it’s so difficult to know which button is which by touch alone, i placed a small jewel sticker on the remote from my boy’s crafting box, quite pleased myself, as i didn’t have to look at the key to unlock it. I thought it was over the lock button, but i think it perhaps was more over the open boot button. keys were in my pocket both times it happened, so can only assume a combination of new jeans, post Christmas spread in the middle region, and some crouching may have contributed to the issue! a cautionary tale for us all I hope.

It is classed as an assist, hence the warning. However I am banned from using it when the wife is in the car as it freaks her out when the car steers itself into a parking space.

@DeanVRS20VTthats what I’m planning to do with my vrs. I’ve got other cars I use daily and will have to pay each time I want to take it out. Will keep the mileage down 🤣

I mean, in my opinion it looks bloody awful and reminds me of an old car with a ground fault, not sure about where you live but in the UK that would also be illegal and an MOT fail. On the other side - you need to look at things called Leuchte channels, if you read up on these then you will be able to do this no problem, simply setting channel for whatever light to minimize and dimmwert to 0 when indicators are in their on or off phase will cause this. I still stand by it looks like an old ford fiesta with a light cluster half filled with water and shorting out the other bulbs.

I’ve heard/read about the same issue in VW forum - it was related to a vacuum leak in break booster vacuum hose and check valve. Some were reporting that pressing the gas pedal fixes the brakes. Hope this helps, sounds like a scary issue to me!

Yes, of course 👍🏼 I'll let you know how I get on.

@DeanVRS20VTis that your red octavia vrs parked up in coney hall?

That would be fantastic! Yes of course! I'll happily make a donation 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼 Thanks so much 😊😊😊

@varooom I didn't anticipate this level of support from anyone on the forum, way above and beyond my expectations. Thank you doesn't cover how grateful I am for your time and expertise 🙏

Here you go, hopefully this helps. Pages from S0060020020-Heating__Air_conditioning.pdf

@MortenH Further to the above, the cable ties are securing the rubber bellows units to the dampers.

Quick tip. if you put the "@" symbol in front of a name it will tag and alert us 🤝 @skomaz@varooom Hopefully you have a carbon pollen filter, so the colour is normal. Nice, so that most likely rules out a duff fan for now, it could still be a culprit as you never know. I would be checking with a multimeter to see what power if any is getting to the fan. Nice work today, keep it up and the car might be working as intended soon.

Perfect, it is where I thought it would be, but here is image of locatation, bottom of the oil pan sump

CJZDF59943

I’ve taken some pictures of the suspension. It doesn’t seem like there’s any transport blocks, but i’ve never seen cable ties used on the suspension. The cable ties are on the rear suspension – is this normal?

Thanks nta16, from memory that's how the stereo is wired in. I wanted to replace the original radio and have a USB to charge phone. This is Halfords (apologies for swearing) handywork. I was really hoping to get away with doing the bare minimum (I'm not lazy just terrified of anything electrical) and now realise I'm going to have to spend the afternoon in the passenger footwell. I must also confess at this stage that I have only just figured out that I have a pollen filter and it's location. I'm not looking forward to removing the fan housing but can't think of an alternative. Wish me luck 🤞

And here a pic of the Eventuri intake and cover

Same happened on my car, probably one of your door lock is faulty. It was the passenger door lock, which was changed with a new one

Thankyou very much

Hello and welcome. Happy New Year to you to.

Stick with Bosch if possible.

Cites of relevant Acts of Parliament needed.

Probably because the pump in a specific car would be one of 4 or 5 makes, depending on which one offered the best price for 20_000 fuel pumps that month.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. You'd do better to get a can of GT85 and use the can of WD40 to coat garden tools. GT85 is better, I've used it on fans and other motors in house and cars. - https://gt85.co.uk/ If you can brush or blow or vacuum away and dust/debris in the area first all the better. ****-poor fuse box information seems to be regular thing on the VWSkoda models and there can be more than one possible fuse number/location so read through the whole list for possibilities. Best not to just do a visual check on a fuse but a check with a multimeter or swapping out with know working fuse of the same type and amperage. What are the two items below for?

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. You have a diesel and going on shortish journeys driven gently and mostly dual carriageway - not good use for a diesel (or petrol) , it's a VRS so giving it some blowout runs as a VRS would be to get would help. How often is the engine oil& filter changed, quality of oil, how often the air filter, ever put the "cleaner" diesel fuel in. I cleaned a mate's (Citroen) 100k-mile diesel MAF (and a bit of the inside of the air intake trunking), as with anything diesel it was a bit of a black ****ty business, the air filter had been changed at the previous service. Just doing that did improve things. With replacing the MAF sensor just get a good one, personally I'd always go with Japanese over German brand name, unless the brand name sticker could be peeled back to reveal the part is actually Japanese. 🤣 You really believe a VW computer about such things. 🤣 Being serious it shows variances in computer programs and the information the sensors can give so perhaps if a good quality MAF sensor isn't expensive then it might be better replaced if it's got too inaccurate. My mate's Citroen is only a runabout not a sports model (not that his sports models get enough maintenance servicing for me liking).

Good that you've got somewhere under cover to keep it - I didn't have that luxury when I was having all my fun and games and it made things a right chew on! I would be cautious about feeding anything down the drain pipes, as you'll have seen all the drain tubes are connected to a knuckle which is a friction fit onto the roof tray. I've seen a couple of horror stories where people have fed Bowden cables down and pulled the drain tube off the knuckle. Similarly using compressed air, read a guy who blew the tube off the knuckle and had to go to the faff of putting everything back together with sealant! I've used plastic hedge strimmer line, doubled up into a loop with decent effect. It's got enough strength to break up the gunk but it's malleable enough it will just stop if it hits the drainage tubing. I prefer not to put anything down the drainage tubes though, I now tend to just pour some warm water mixed with mild detergent down there every few months. it may be different in the superb, but on the Octavia the main thing is the rubber nipples on the bulkhead. They simply need squeezing and manipulating (ooo err) a few times and the crud that comes out of them is quite surprising. By the sounds of it, It may well be that the roof mechanism itself is gummed up on yours. When I first got mine it made quite a racket opening/closing the roof and it sounded like it was struggling - it simply hadn't been maintained at all and the car was about 6 years old when I bought it. I blew the the rails and mechanism out using compressed air, then clean them with a soft paint brush before running a shop vac around to try and pick up anything loose and a final wipe down with a microfibre cloth. I then give everything a coating of WD40 Specialist PTFE lubricant. After that the mechanism was running nice and smoothly and much quieter. I do all the above annually now and touch wood everything runs nice and smooth. I could probably get away with doing it every couple of years to be honest but for the sake of an hour or so's work, it's worthwhile. It may be worth you trying similar, see if yhr roof mechanism frees up at all with a bit of maintainace. There's another test you can do at home, even with the roof not closing properly which will help to see if there is an with the actual integrity of the roof itself. Simply pour some water into the plastic overflow tray which surrounds the roof. With your newly clear drainage tubes, this should drain away without issue. If however you get any water ingress Into the car then you might have a similar issue to me where the water is leaking from the plastic tray (in my case it was running across the roof liner and then down the outside of the drainage tubes). As much as they're a nice thing on a summers day, I would never have another car with a sunroof of any sort ever again, it just isn't worth the faff and potential bother and expense.

Pretty sure all UK dealers will have access to digital servicing records through the reg/VIN. Mine was serviced at several Skoda dealers and I was given printouts along with the original invoices. I was told the printouts were of the Skoda digital servicing records and as I have the original customer invoices I have no reason to doubt them. I wouldnt worry about it, they should be able to prove any servicing records.

Fuse assignment in the dashboard. Fuse 46 12-volt power outlet. Thanks. AG Falco

Super Thank you

It might be the actual switch is kaput, so no matter which you set it to now, it no longer works (I guess it spent 6 years on max setting?) Also, just checking that you have looked at the Brown 25Amp bottom left, 3rd across, just to make sure that we are seeing the same is all. This is for blower motor. Question, I see you are talking about rear window heater, also a 25Amp fuse, just wondering if that is working now?

There is no "update on this" You yourself will need to get out a multimeter and check Voltage after it's sat overnight and post up your findings. I replaced my 2015 original AGM battery as it was starting to get "lazy" but I never left it until it fully died, as I didn't want to be stranded. I could have gotten another 2-4 years out if it, the lifespan varies depending on too many factors to list... If you don't have a multimeter, you could try a garage that has a drop tester or somewhere than can print out the CCA rating of the battery now.

Not really anything progress related but I'll post anyway. I have since tried (carefully) putting gasket sealant stuff onto the mating surfaces for the cork gasket, as a way to secure it properly and stop it slipping. It needs to cure so can't do any more there. Did take out the thermostat too to have a look, seems stuck solid. Dumped it into some boiling water and nothing happened. Will have to track down another it seems. With that out of the way, someone was up looking at the justy the other day and pointed out to me that if I moved some ****e about, I might be able to stuff it into the back of the garage and fit another car in. Wasn't doing too much so decided to try that out. Did create a fair mess moving stuff around. But it did seem possible. It's really jammed in though. The freezer isn't being used but I had to keep it in the garage. So I shove some bits of the Monte into it and pushed it deep under the stairs. Next problem is this old table top, I can't move it myself so it couldn't go anywhere either. With it out of the way I could get another few inches. Left myself some space on this side. Just in case. Slowly taking shape. Final test to see if all this hassle was worth it. It fits, just. Have about 6 inches from the front of the Monte to the garage door. I can't fit anything bigger than a fabia, but considering that's all I have, it doesn't matter. An hour or so spent but happy with the result. Can't complain about turning a 1 car garage into a 2 car garage for free.

Easy explanation; you braked so much and so often that you drained all the vacuum out of the servo, and the engine/vacuum pump took a few seconds to rebuild vacuum.