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Do you play the Lottery? According to Skoda UK the "recommended" interval is 5 years, but according to VW and the Skoda factory it's either 120,000km or "lifetime". Thios topic has been discused on here ever since I owned my first Mk3 in 2016 and has always provoled much discussion but no conclusion since the recommendations between country importaers and manufacturers are so inconsistent.

The 1.0l tsi is a cracking engine plenty of guts easily pulls 5 adults and loaded boot even up hill. I have a kamiq it’s the same car as a scala I have had two first was a 1.0l 115ps now a 1.5l 150ps. 1.0l I got 70 mpg town and motorway around town mid 40s. The 1.5l I have had 65 mpg town motorway town 35/45mpg. If you are buying new get factory fit towbar prep the electrics will be set up for plug and play or full towbar fit. Go to Skoda website and configure your scala for options and price. you can save and give to your dealer

The OP has clearly asked not to fill the thread with random media from the internet. As such users just posting up videos consider this as a sign to stop. If you want to put a reply and contribute to the interaction on the thread, then by all means do. If you just want to spam threads with videos or links for no reason then don’t. This is the second time this has been dealt with and if there is a third then I will apply appropriate sanctions to the user/users in question.

No chance of a golden sunrise this morning but still worth the walk nonetheless.

Welcome to the forum. http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/256897-wtf-is-abs-edl-asr-hhc-etc http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/214776-wtf-is-abs-edl-asr-esp-hhcetc http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/490648-xds-or-edl-or-xdl-electronic-differential-lock-is-it-supplied-at-all-in-the-uk

Yes, the inner jack points r for the axle stands. I've used it plenty of times. This is the fronts.... With wheel arch liner removed - u can see the "strengthening" behind it, into the chassis.

During 2022 my Superb DRG (2017 reg) developed a horrible judder when setting off from rest. Opinion (local garage and mobile garage - dealer not much help) eventually settled on a gearbox problem. I went off to Bristol Transmissions for diagnostics (£90). Yes, they would need to replace 2 clutches and the flywheel. They quoted a fixed price of £1500 + VAT (less the £90!) I duly turned up last December, delivered it and made my way back to Stroud by bus and train. Thank you Google Maps! Got the call to collect it 2 weeks later, as estimated. Now, a month later, the car has proved to be delightfully smooth again. Sadly, this is not an uncommon problem with this and related models, they said. Highly recommended service.

Octavia MK1 256x22mm front brake discs 60HP 1.4 petrol 68HP 1.9 diesel 75HP 1.4 petrol 75HP 1.6 petrol 101HP 1.6 petrol 102HP 1.6 petrol 280x22mm front brake discs 90HP 1.9 diesel 100HP 1.9 diesel 110HP 1.9 diesel 116HP 2.0 petrol 125HP 1.8 petrol 288x25mm front brake discs 130HP 1.9 diesel 150HP 1.8 petrol 312x25mm front brake discs 180HP 1.8 petrol 15" rims fit over 288mm front discs. Jurid on autodoc seems quite accurate for front brake disc size.

https://thatchamfitters.co.uk/car/cars-with-factory-fitted-thatcham-security/skoda.htm#:~:text=Skoda cars with factory fitted Thatcham security systems,all new cars built for the UK market.

Was this new battery coded when it was fitted? Have you smart charged the battery? On the way to work in the morning after 10 miles I can stop at a set of traffic lights, the stop start normally works. On my way home in the evening after 12 miles my stop start almost never works. 😕 There are many things that can affect as to whether the stop start will work. If I have the AC on and turn the fan speed up to 3 the engine will re start if it had stopped. The TPMS does NOT measure your tyre pressure. Read this post:- Can be turned off. Yes. Once the car has been started it is rare to have the battery fail. Was the alternator tested at the time? Low Voltage? Suffer from low voltage battery. Go to another one. Looks like the correct battery to me. Is the boot light on when this warning comes on? You need to look in the boot without opening any door or the boot. I would get a Smart Battery charger and charge the battery first. 🙂 HTH Thanks. AG Falco

@skoda1982 Does the fuel tank comprise of a 5l green petrol can and a small straw coming out of it? That sips the petrol 😊

1.0l

Hope this helps you in some way, here are the towing capabilities of the Scala Manual, as you can see, not a lot in it. The petrol engines have come a long way, and fairly capable units. I would go with @Warrior193 suggestion of going for the test drive, do it with an open mind and I am sure you will be pleased.

PS, I had a Mk 2 Cooper S in my miss-spent youth, also much modified (as per icon) - I can't believe how big the BMW 'Minis' have grown now.

Hello Smaug, welcome to the forum. Do I assume correctly - Another JRR fan? To your question - my wife has a 2018 Fabia 1.0,110 PS, I think it is a very willing engine - not quite as smooth as my 1.4 Octavia, and torque pick up does not come at same point, but quite fun to drive. Take the test drive, I'm confident you will be pleasantly surprised.

Just had a read, info about battery production date is useful, seems the old battery is the original so it's done well, managed 73k miles and 8 years old. Thanks for your help.

And it's working ! Thx @varooom !

@Ahmedg The DSG shifter issues are pretty well documented, but what about with the 8 speed torque converter automatics like you have, are the issue / fault free and what sort of servicing / ATF changes do they require?

Just updated my spreadsheet ( kept for for expenses as well as general interest ) of MPG since owning the car. Interesting that it shows a marked difference between spring/summer and autumn/winter motoring. Total distance covered 60,955 miles with 1062 gallons of diesel ( Tesco ). Pretty much same journeys every day, MPG's calculated as a rolling average of 4no tankfulls.

OK, so I currently have a 2012 focus zetec, the 1.6 petrol 105 version. Not the most poke but it gets there, gives decent mpg and hasn't given me any real problems in 3 years. I was initially looking at another focus as a replacement but the ecoboom issues just don't appeal. I've gone around in circles, considered a mk4 octavia estate but then spotted a scala whilst out and about at work. Since then I've been frying my brain 🧠. I settled on the SEL as that seemed to give the best value for money and initially thought the 1.5 manual would be my best option. However I've been drawn back to the 1.0 110. It has more power than my current car and on paper should be more economical but I'm not sure if it has enough oomph for the driving I do. It is just me, 1 1/2 dogs and will need a towbar to carry my mountain bike. A and B roads on my commute with one half mile climb in either direction. Bit of motorway driving to Cumbria a couple of times a year plus possibly on bike trips (not often). I don't make special trips for shopping as I do that on my way home from work. Generally I don't drive less than 8 miles unless it's a doctors appointment. I don't race around like a loon, that ended when I sold my very loud much modified (real) mini clubman 25 years ago. These days I'm all about practicality, economy and comfort. Before my focus I had a kia ceed diesel (nightmare) estate and I found my driving needed an an adjustment with the switch and I rarely notice that my car is a bit of a slouch. I do have a test drive booked next weekend for the 1.0 litre. I just don't want to get in it and feel disappointed. So at the end of my long rambling post (sorry guys!) Those of you that have tried both and obviously those that have the 1.0 litre please be brutally honest about the capabilities of this little engine. I don't care if its not the fastest thing on the road, I don't mind adjusting my driving if necessary. The question is will it suit my use? 🤔

@CarlstonThanks for the correction!!! I think it's useful for future reference!

Thanks, I have a green menu now.

https://www.thatcham.org/wp-content/uploads/2022/12/October-2022-OE.pdf

I’ve got one car with “normal” cruise and one with ACC. I prefer normal, because ACC just cannot read the road and provide a smooth drive. End of story really. Some folk get along fine with ACC letting them have a snooze or play with their phone, dashboard Apps or whatever, while the car visibly slows down on motorways, tucked in behind an arctic. I’ve often noticed cars gluing themselves to my rear end, probably with ACC doing it’s thing.

Much appreciated your quick reply. I'll take and post the photo tomorrow. Best,

Only selector mechanism issues with aisin 8 speed automatic torque converter no other issues with the transmission itself and they require atf change every 60000 km intervals

I think I found it. Fuse SB9, am I correct?

This fault was on my car when I bought it at 3 years old. I was told by an expert in canbus that if the radio works then there is nothing to worry about. Further searches suggested that is true as long as the two ends on the canbus are working without electrical noise being introduced into the wiring. The fault code disappeared many years later after the wiring was disturbed so I assume it was just a poor connection.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. I note from the Manual for the charger that it is designed for up to 60Ah, your battery is rated at 69Ah so using the formula in the manual if the battery is fully discharged it will take 34.5 hours (at 2-amps) to get it to 80% charge (about 12.4-12.5v). In maintenance mode at a maximum of 1-amp the time doubles. These times will be increased if the battery is connected to the car and has a constant drain on it. The charger does not seem to have a recondition mode so once you have the battery as fully charged as you can from the charger it would possibly help to use the car to cycle the battery's discharge and charge, from the alternator, as the battery is designed for. Use the least consumers and battery consumption as you can until you put the battery on the charger again, to fully recharge the battery again to hopefully have regained as much of the battery capacity as you can. If required you could repeat use of the battery on the car and then another full recharge using the battery charger. The maintenance mode is really for when the car is not used for long periods, as noted in the car's Owner's Manual but the battery is designed for cycling so should have some discharge. Winter mode is for when the ambient temperature is below (+)5c, if the temperature was above 5c last time of charging I would not worry about it given the state of your battery. Manual.pdf My terminology will not be correct - but - the idea is just to fully deplete the electrics so that you get a reset of the computers, to have a clean start when you reconnect the charged battery, it might not do much, or nothing, but as I put before when the battery gets in a low state of charge it can cause all sorts of unexpected computer or program issues so best to have them cleared if possible and speed up getting back to normal operation. Thanks. Now if you add that to the information with your site name it will show at each post you make (when viewed on an appropriate device(?)) as example. -

I learned to drive lorries with a manual box, splitter and a clutch that needed thighs like arnie to push down. Now everything is automatic and I'm just a steering wheel attendant. I like getting in my car at the end of my day and actually driving. Eventually I will be forced into automatic but whilst I still have a choice I'm stubbornly hanging on to my manual 😉 That's interesting. I've never worried about quoted mpg as I've always managed to exceed the quoted figures (except with the kia which was awful). But that figure is definitely a challenge to beat 😉

Heated rear window Full service history Something wash wipe? One loving owner Full main dealer service history Power assisted steering Electric wondows front and rear 5 speed box Taxed and tested Very good condition ****ed up beyond repair God I'm showing my age

Incorrect, it is a predefined number of driving cycles (journeys) that have to be completed without a recurrence of the fault, an example would be a blown bulb, the owner may have replaced the bulb, in which case the stored fault code will be erased after X driving cycles. They certainly will not erase after a few hours.

It's done very well for 8 years of use, and glad to assist.

I wouldn't replace the compressor, until the issue with communications to the climate controls is fixed. You'll swap a compressor possibly for nothing. Either you will need to investigate the loss of comms, or get it off to auto electrician if not. Without functioning Comms from that unit, the AC compressor will never be commanded to function, so you won't have any working AC. p.s. if the gas levels are correct, I hope you don't have a dead 🐍 on board.

I have learnt much from this thread! But now I will need to take paracetamol and go for a lie down....

Never mind the parts cannon. Let's go back to basics. Do you get grey smoke that smells of diesel on a cold start?

You can do it from the top easily by hand by feel only. However to become proficient you will likely need to remove the air filter etc the first time to see what you are doing and get the necessary familiarity of touch. You do not need a pressure bleeder, there is a void underneath the bleed nipple where any air from downstream gathers, you simply use a clear vertical bleed hose, open the bleed valve by hand and watch the air come up followed by a little fluid, when the bubbles stop (quite quickly) you close the valve, most times you will have only drawn a tiny bit of fluid and wont need to top up. Any air higher in the system (unlikely) will rise up through the master cylinder and into the reservoir, its a very simple single piston seal master cylinder and when the pedal is up any air can rise unrestricted right through the master cylinder. If you replace the master cylinder then a pressure bleeder will make the job quicker but gravity and patience will do the job equally well as will traditional 2 person manual bleeding, VAG say a pressure bleeder because its quick and does not require a 2nd person but only necessary for a master cylinder change done by one person against the clock.

That would mean that nobody could use wheel spacers, even 10mm ones because that would change the offset by more than 4mm. wheel-size.com aren't experts on offsets, they just compile lists...often with many mistakes.

You're opening Pandora's box here. 😆 OBD Port is a physical port that is inside the car, then you plug in VCDS which is an independently created piece of software, and a physical tool of the same name that can talk to the vehicle via the port. VCDS is a tool used by enthusiast's and independent garages will often have it. ODIS = Offboard Diagnostic Information System that is plugged into the OBD port and used by main dealers, independent workshops can also use this platform in some Countries. This is the dealer level tool, and top dog of the diagnostic platforms.

Appreciate we are doing remote diag, so take anything with a pinch of salt. The one fault that could be causing trouble is the error between the gateway and the infotainment, This could be causing the gateway not to go to sleep correctly as it's not getting a response from the radio, or it's not able to send shutdown command to the radio. Can you explain the battery drain in more detail, have you got Voltages of the battery that you are taking? Has the battery been tested for health (age?)

A low battery can cause no end of fault codes that then disappear when the Voltage is healthy again. It might also be an intermittent fault in a loom wire that will come and go, until it becomes permanent fixture.

Also check the earth cable connection at the wing end as this is the only way the batteries electrical circuit is completed through the car. If you have a set of jump leads, use one connected to the battery earth terminal with the other end clamped on the engine metal somewhere giving an additional earth circuit and try starting.

Low profile tyres, bad roads. Real world damage. If the dealers that sell Pirelli tyres or others are not interested in helping then you are stuffed. You will have hit a pothole or iron works on the road. Not really a manufacturing fault. I did get a pair of very new Maxxis AP11 replaced with a bulge, but then they had cracking as well. It was the seller credited me. That was MyTyre, not Maxxis. http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/382657-maxxis-ap2-all-season-tyres My Michelin Alpin 6 bulged this winter, that was me again driving and hitting potholes. http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/488370-michelin-alpin-6-winter-tyres

Being in the trade myself I see this more than often. so many times people will come to me for brakes cause I’m cheaper than most - when they arrive I’ll take a look and the multiple times I’ve turned people away and returned the parts because they’re brakes are perfectly fine only to find out they were told at their mot/service that the brakes are almost metal to metal or something along those lines. I hate that people do this cause it gives a bad reputation for all mechanics and make us all look stupid. it’s not just dealers that do this, independent garages do this too!

If you don't mind 225/55R17 that the Karoq 4x4 uses, then 7J rims would be fine and put the ride in the medium category as shown in the chart below. I've added 215/55R17 fitted to a 7J rim to a medium to hard riding category, so a bit harder than a 215/55R17 fitted to a 6.5J rim but not as hard as a 205/50R18 fitted to a 7J rim. However, if you're looking to improve your ride it's probably best to look at the soft and medium riding tyre/rim combination and not the medium to hard, and hard riding categories. Soft ride 215/60R16 tyre fitted to a 6Jx16 rim Medium ride 215/55R17 tyre fitted to a 6.5jx17 rim 225/55R17 tyre fitted to a 7Jx17 rim Medium to hard ride 215/55R17 tyre fitted to a 7Jx17 rim Hard ride 215/50R18 tyre fitted to a 7Jx18 rim

Had abit of a change up in the interior too. Fabia Monte Carlo steering wheel, Audi 6 speed GearKnob, and vw high up seats which fronts are heated

Mahle has a 5 'C gap for example 75-70, 80-85, 85-90 etc.

Hi @gm73 - I had this issue a few years ago with my VRS, which threw a 'Start/Stop Error' code on the maxidot screen - and went into limp mode. I took it to a VAG specialist down my road who plugged in a laptop, ran VCDS, and manually opened and closed the actuator, which they thought might have got stuck due to heat. It didn't necessitate a new turbo or actuator 😀 In the (hopefully unlikely) event that the actuator is broken or faulty, I believe that only that needs to be replaced - rather than the whole turbo. It is tricky to get to, but not an engine-out job at all.

Remember the Superb was always designed more as a comfort limo, than a sports car. If you want a car with sharp handling, it’s not really one to choose

Is there any other colour?