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Thought I would update this topic since I started it, I bought a 16 plate 1,4 tsi se at 9k on the clock. Its now done 194000 . Only new bits so far 2 front drop links, battery, aulternator, clutch even though it didnt need it front and rear disks at 140krear and 150k front. small Timeing belt at 160k . Uses no oil between 10k sercices, break pads changed every 50k. still pulls like a train

I was putting washing away upstairs and noticed the light as the Sun was on its way down. Didn't think to open the window to reduce reflection 🙄 I like late afternoon Winter's Sun: Gaz

Tremendous sky (and full 'Snow' Moon) last night - colour changing minute by minute.........

Just fitting 18 genuine vw Pretoria wheels as the roads here are just pothole after pothole. I’ll tell u what tho those 19 inch extremes are super heavy.

After some 3k posts, I figured I best make a very late hello. As a child I was always pulling things to pieces! If it had electricity inside it, I had the tools out pulling it apart, I was deeply fascinated by how they worked. I put some broken things back together and they worked, but not always successful! At school, we had very limited exposure to PC's, we had to look almost and not touch the things... it was awful for someone that likes to know what makes things tick. They were I think 486 processors, but I do remember they had 25MHz clock speed and one of those turbo buttons, that I think would boost them to 33MHz! I had to have one, so I saved up some money and brought an 8086 CPU PC that was the old school library machine, it had green screen that gave you "pink eye" when you looked away from it, turning everything pink 😬 I then self-taught myself everying I could about the MS-DOS 6.22 OS and command line was king back then, I loaded Windows 3.11 and spent time tweaking and wiping it several times learning. So then naturally progressed to working in the IT field for a few years, building/repairing/networking. I was in heaven doing this as my daily job. Circumstances change as they do in life, so I ended up working as a Taxi driver for many years also, and unlike most that thought maintenance was a dirty word, I kept my car pristine and in good working order. It was again, going back to my childhood, how I wanted to know how things worked that I started to learn as much as I could about features of the car, so getting workshop manuals/wiring diagrams etc... nothing changes! I did then a short stint in a garage environment, but was never allowed to do much work on the motors, though I was often called up to assist with things during engine rebuilds or other such tasks. I am now a carer for my wife, so I no longer working, which is why I am available here to assist. Given the cost of living crisis going on, I try to help people out where I can with assistance where possible on their cars, so it could be firmware files for infotainment or snippets of the workshop manuals to help out with repair information. So I am not a mechanic, but I have pulled apart and done many DIY things over the years, so fairly confident to tackle tasks.

I guess there is no harm in doing so. only takes about 2 minuets to set up anyway. yes the vid was good which is nice. This is so funny hahaha, but yeah, I know there are loads of very very very cheap OBD readers that work of an advert filled app. I guess they can be useful to get some basic stats from your car to show and maybe to give you fault codes but that's about it. That's what I am trying to aim for, charged it this pervious Saturday and it took about 4/5 hours to top up so plenty of time. Anyway thanks @nta16 @varooom @ords for all the help, really appreciated!

This post is spot on, Bravo! I don’t understand all the moans and groans about services that will be found in every new car bought today. Lane control, no, it’s not dangerous, update your driving skills or switch it off with two button presses, hardly a hardship, it’s going to be in every new car you buy from now on. Warning alarms, good luck finding a new car that doesn’t have them. Progression whether you like it or not is like a fast flowing river, either stand on the side and get left behind or jump in and go with the flow. Wheels, if you chose the Monte Carlo you chose it for looks, why would you want to spoil it by sticking downmarket or third party wheels on it, but if it bugs you that much budget for it and do it. Seat height, if it isn’t tall enough move on and find a different model, they ain’t going to change it for you and the Kamiq is the smallest of three SUV’s in Skodas range, buy a bigger one. The areas that let the MC down in my opinion are lack of climate control as a standard option, weedy AC in the summer and shockingly bad rear discs. The latter is a cheap fix so no big deal, the first two are slight annoyances that only manifest themselves after purchase. I enjoy my car, it’s certainly a million times better than my first car, a Volvo 340 which didn’t beep, pull or have AC. The Kamiq is a winner in my book.

It's the only way sadly. Like all decisions we all have to make in all aspects of life. I guess we all have to look at the past track record and failure rates / statistics and make our own decision of what "might be". No right or wrong answer whatever each of us decides I guess.

Hopefully about 85 years for me. I'll be content with that.

It is the consequence of failure that is the issue. Generally a failed wheel bearing will cause a little noise and possibly vibration and is easily fixed, but a failed cambelt is pretty likely to be catastrophic for the engine, which isn't easily ixed and will cost a fortune.

Some new bits - Swapped the Eibach springs out for h&r so should be around 10mm down front and rear - EBC Yellowstuff pads to go with the Ebc slotted discs I already have - Powerflex arb bushes - Various genuine new bolts and rear top mounts

They had to go with a cunning stunt. Electrification. So with a 1.0 TSI had mild hybrid and that also reduces any DQ200 possible issues as well, and do that with a 1.5 TSI as well, and then go with a PHEV with a 1.4 TSI to again help lower average emissions from the Fleet. But the PHEV's need to be on Fixed Service regimes for Oil & Filter changes, and obviously the same guidelines for timing belt replacements. Among the newest cars there are now recommendations or guidelines for brake fluid changes first at 2 years again, and the same has happened with VAQ diffs now being at 2 years when they were @ 3 years / 30,000 miles. Lots more possible work for going into Dealership workshops while less new cars are being delivered but waiting to get a slot with them takes longer.

For both of you, I can take a quick look with your VIN to maybe see if there has been any service measures applied to your car(s). Feel free to PM your VIN if you like, no promises I can view, but happy to try.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. No harm in topping up the battery each weekend if required, and if it takes 4-5 hours then it was needed. I've found some "smart" chargers can more fully charge than others well at least on a battery that is very, very low (or "dead" to many). General advice seems to be to not let the battery get below 12.3V (at the battery posts a few hours after parked up and allow for variance if using a very cheap multimeter) though Banner Batteries put it at 12.5V. If the charger goes into maintain / float after full you don't need to worry about it and you might as well leave it connected for as long as possible or reasonable. Be interesting to see how many more years you get out of the battery (you can never fully recover early injury(ies)), VWSkoda want us to renew at 5 years, but then many won't even get that far. Good luck and all the best.

I went in looking for a sport line Kodiaq. They are a good looking motor compared to other Kodiaq models. Then I saw and drove the 280 Superb and thought, this is for me, a proper street sleeper and way quieter than my current motor. Which will please the neighbours 😝 Roll on Friday morning.

Hotel California vibes... "You can check out any time you like But you can never leave"

What is annoying though is that manufacturers still use a glorified elastic band in such a "complex" machine. It beggers belief really when for just £10 more they could have fitted a lifetime chain. I know we could all ask "does this car have a rubber band or timing chain" and then walk away but - let's be honest - it's not exactly at the top of the list when looking for a shiny new car. One can only imagine what horrors are to come in 10 years for all those electric car owners relying on a few batteries to get them from A to B.

If the 1.6 TDI needs the timing belt and water pump replaced and the clutch then that is just the same as you would need to do with any donor engine you were to buy.

It is amazing how the story of these belts change with Chinese whisper over the internet/forums, and how much of the time/distance get's changed... 3/4/5 years! 60k/80k/120k miles etc I prefer always to deal in facts and hopefully the image taken from the factory manual tells most of the picture, but as we all know time will tell in the end. This is a million dollar question really as to how this will pan out. I am sure that R&D will have tested these belts over XY simulated miles/"years" and perhaps know that they should in the majority of cases last the distance. It would be nice to revisit this thread in years to come and see.

I'm going to try for The Telegram.

Do you hear a lot of voices in your head Toot? That would explain a lot 😆 Only joking!

My prediction is based on having heard the voice of Doris Stokes in my head & that is that a GPF will need replace before a timing belt fails. But only time will tell how good my premonitions are.

What a palava. Maybe Martin at MSE should get involved or Which? and force some answers and clarity. This seems to another one of those "potential" deiselgate situations.

Once they know more about 1.5 TSI ACT's at 6 or 7 years old that maybe do 5,000 miles a year or 25,000 miles a year in dust free countries they can revise their advice. @ the moment they just go by what Derren Brown tells them. They have a habit of using paying customers as their R&D. Lifetime is until it dies. The Timing Belts might outlive all of us, maybe not the engines though.

Yes this is the conclusion we made regarding the 1.5 engine, it's in the engine manual too that this is a lifetime belt. But the debate rages on due to being the internet, and Skoda UK (or other importers) cover their own ass by overruling the factory, or saying it is "recommended" and therefore spreading doubt.

I worry a lot too. "BUT IF IT AINT BROKE DONT FIX IT" is something I wish someone had told me when I was young!

I reckon it was the mid 90's that I went to the motor show not having been for many years before, what surprised me was that the underbonnet of every vehicle looked exactly the same as any other, that is you could no longer see any components just a sea of wall to wall (well wing to wing actually) plastic covers. Prior to that you could ogle a performance engine, the exhaust headers, inlet tract etc, Italians in particular made the latter into works of art. Now an engine bay looks crap without the covers, I even spent my hard earned on an OE plastic battery box for the Yeti when the battery insulating sleeve looked like Alexis Sales jacket after a battery upgrade. I thought mine looked fussy enough and its taken me a couple of years to work out what all the clutter is but it's nothing compared to that monstrosity in the photograph. Cover up I say, put it away love, nobody wants to have to look at it! 🤣

A new bevel box 0CN 409 053 AM is £2870 and it has been revised. It is a bit fiddly to top up (oil is G 052 145 S2 and £38.74 for a litre, it uses 0.9 litres) and a gear oil pump with an M10x1 adapter makes life much easier but it could be removed and have new oil seals fitted for £107 in parts and all three have been revised which says something

Sunrise at Sunderland earlier this week:

Sent

185/60R15 on a 6Jx15 ET38 rim is a standard Fabia MK3 size. 6Jx15 ET38 5/100 57.1 steel rim https://www.mytyres.co.uk/rims/details?vehicleId=800108564218651748&rimCode=ALCAR7760 6Jx16 ET35 5/100 57.1 steel rim https://www.mytyres.co.uk/rims/details?vehicleId=1206402299938436196&rimCode=ALCAR6664 195/50R16 has a similar outside diameter to the standard Fabia MK3 tyre sizes, and could be used on a 6Jx16 ET35 rim from the Scala/Kamiq. The 195/55R15 is not a Fabia MK3 size. 195/55R15 has an outside diameter 1.4% smaller than 215/40R17. However, it could be used as a spare but 185/60R15 has a closer outside diameter to the standard Fabia MK3 tyre sizes.

Thanks Steve. Seen your past efforts. Your posts have been most helpful

Did you look at the Honda HR-V? I did, but only the previous model when the dealer was conveniently sited - it's since moved. From where I am Exeter isn't as convenient (28 mile round trip with a lengthy 'round the houses' bus service) as Newton Abbot and the latter has a Kia dealer who collects and returns for a service... as does the VW (and Skoda) dealer opposite - which is where the Skoda used to get serviced (before I started using the local indie) so it was handy to have them pick it up, service and MOT it and bring it back. The Seat dealer in Newton does collect and deliver so that might be a consideration. If I went for a Seat it would have to have the Seat 5 year warranty (£320 if the website is up to date). The Ford dealer in Newton doesn't collect and I don't think I fancy the Puma that much anyway. If i drove it I might change my mind I suppose? But do I want to put my head in the mouth of the lion that is DSG???? Mine's been OK for 12 years (after they did the manufacturer decreed modifications under warranty) but it's still a concern for me. Exeter has all the makes in all the colours and all the sizes but to leave a car there for a service isn't all that convvenient - and I don't believe anyone there collects and delivers. To summarize, from a convenience point of view ... VW, Skoda, Seat and KIa are all convenient. Everything else is in Exeter. That includes Suzuki, Honda, Ford, Toyota , and everything else you can imagine (apparently Marsh Barton has one of the largest concentrations of car dealerships in Europe(). The Honda HRV's dimensions suit me nicely but it seems to get ignored. It looks expensive and there aren't as many discounts as would seem available on the others in question (and the dealer's not local any more) plus I'm not fond of the look of it at the front. I had a Jazz and it was fine - Honda Jazz and Civic are popular round my way (it's an area populated by the elderly - me included).... but maybe they get them serviced at one of the (quite plentiful) Indies round here. I think I can rule a Honda out. Your assessment of the makes you've spoken about in your post, stubod, mirrors my own thoughts to an uncanny degree. I couldn't disagree with anything you said there, even if I wanted to. As I said, I'm grateful for your thoughts here.

I just noticed that OAA2 download was available so i'm installing that to see if it makes any difference additionally, i've spoken to the dealer who is going to speak with their "master technician" to see if they are aware and then advise on the next steps

Hi Phoenixboy, my long term is 44mpg but I do a lot of short journeys with a weekly long trip, so not too bad. As for the Software fix for the 1.5tsi, there definately was one, it was rolled out early 2020 February according to Volkwagen. Mine is an early 2020 model and when I had the second service under my ownership I aked the dealership if it had had the update (even though had shown no serious kangarooing Thet told me that it had the updated software version when it left the factory. I think that the dealship are telling you porkies that your car which has the 1.5tsi, does not have an updated software available, just look at this: https://www.honestjohn.co.uk/news/new-cars/2020-03/volkswagen-announces-fix-for-15-tsi-engine-hesitation-issues/ If it had a service at a main dealer it would have been applied automatically. BTW the Manual cars suffered worse than the DSG models, so if yours is jerky I would say it needs the update. Maybe contact Skoda and ask them to verify the software upate version. Some dealerships were actually denying there was a problem right uo to the rollout of the update.

@varooom - so do you think its the battery monitoring control unit that needs replacing then and the gateway control unit ? If so, then my question is why all of a sudden this has happened ? Could it be due to the cold weather over the last few days ? (-4 where i am) ? If so, then not a great advert for a car that originates in the Czech Republic ! I fear that as soon as i get through to the service department, i'll be met with "Oooo, i've never heard of that fault before !" 😫

Can you supply more details on your gateway HW/SW (full strings) There is a TPI for MMI & Gateway updates for Kamiq & Scala, so they both need updates, but this might also exist in a document that I don't have. Now for Octavia PHEV there exists... Service measure 27J6 TPI: 2065641 That does reference a change in hardware for the Gateway for draining the 12V battery and battery monitor "For Octavia A8 PHEV vehicles from a certain production period, due to the safety of the 12V battery, the battery monitoring control unit must be replaced and the gateway control unit updated." "Update the gateway control device to SW 7310 via measure code (SVM) 3774."

I, personally would not bother repairing the damaged loom, I’ve replaced it with a new genuine one, more expensive? Yes. Less troublesome? Also yes. Cost around 120-130 € incl vat ( about same price in pounds),for that amoutn of money you will get an uprated, hanging, loom from skoda. Fitting time: ‘bout half an hour. Fitting it is no rocket science, just make sure that when you remove the old one to attach a rope on it’s end so you can pull the new one in the door ( that is the hardest part)

Thanks for the welcome and message. I would be doing it all with hopefully help from a mechanic freind. Im not doing 31,000 miles a year ive only owned the car since August 22. It is my first car, an ex taxi i know it wasnt the smartest choice. But its great spec and all felt tight when i bought it, but couple months down the line the clutch and gear box both feel a good bit worn.

They can be obtained from erWin Skoda for an eye watering sum of 7 euro's, each year I buy Audi/VW/SEAT/Skoda manuals and download the lot to help others. Make account, pay for 1hr access and have your VIN in a text file, then you can grab these things, and get a build sheet whilst there of your PR Codes that say what was fitted at factory. If you have a PDF printer, then you can go into the TPI documents (Technical Product Information) and get a list of faults you can lookup regarding your motor, so if your gearbox was say only allowing you to select 1, 3 , 5 for example, then they would have something there if it's a known fault and the remedy. I think myself I would change at 210,000km perhaps if you are nervous about it, so about 135,000 miles roughly (or again earlier if you wish) this is taking on the Diesel schedule.

I'd have to disagree with you there, I've had many dealings with vauxhall main dealers over many years, there's now still plenty of engine failures which Vauxhall/Stellantis have no interest in resolving, including the infamous 1.4t (150), GDI, self destructing engine due to lspi and end float issues. Stellantis' new 1.2t engine which has also destroyed it's self due to the internal timing belt shredding, causing catastrophic engine failure. These are only the recent engine failures. So as I've previously stated, their reliability has took a big hit over the last 10 years or so. I've made many previous successful claims over the years under Vauxhalls manufacturers and extended warranties. Regarding my dash warning light that came on, it was the engine management warning symbol in yellow, was flashing for 5-10 seconds after starting the car, then went off. Not seen it again, since. It only came on briefly whilst my car was static from a cold start.

Thanks. It could be, looks that kind of area. I will try get a better picture tomorrow. Its been dark past few days before after work

They look like the dogs dangle butt naked. Much lighter than some 'Much Lightness' & style achieved added by buying and fitting a Carbon Cover to fit to cars the weight of an African elephant.

Just watch for drips on the ground which are not just H2o, and remember that Warranty extension. http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/505394-gearbox-leak http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/509581-7-gear-4x4-dsg-gearbox-error-codes-for-a-2018-tsi-kodiaq http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/502781-gearbox-in-emergency-mode-no-reverse-gear http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/509728-2018-kodiaq-20-tdi-180-repair-of-mechatronic-unit-electronics *Remember what you will be told at dealerships and even on social media / forums, 'people only come to forums when they have problems.' Not when they have problems and the Manufacturers are being deaf dumb and blind to issues / faults they need to address sooner rather than later.

@Dinesy sorry to raise this. Good news and bad news. You do not have a DQ200. Sh|t news. Just the few (oveblow on forums ) but growing number of DQ381 issues. Start in the Kodiaq section. So maybe an oil change sooner than 80,000 miles. I am expecting a revision of the guidelines, recommendation or schedule from VW group sooner rather than later. Be sure to have an extended warranty. In Australia with 5 year warranties owners are still having crap from Dealerships. Ps VW wish it was overblown on Social Media. It catches then out not dealing with issues.

Never use the same original bolts if ur using spacers!!!! U MUST get longer bolts that match the thickness of the spacer being used.

Lots of Pirelli summer tyres don't like cold rain, my P7s that factory put on were same, grip falls on rapidly in wet below about +10c I am convinced that they are formulated to be optimal between about +10c and +40c. Especially since Pirelli introduced its all season. Brilliant for warm summer days, useless from late October to early April when the presumably expect you to fit their Soto zero winter tyre

@wolverine5plNo matter how often you ask about 1.4 TSI (Turbo only not Twincharger) reliability or 'carbon build up', the answer will be about as reliable as any engine VW group has manufactured in the past 10 years. There really is no common issue with them. They are being built and sold without ACT in various world regions still, they are a good engine.

I had that on a completely different VW Group car, a VW Passat 4Motion 2000, which like the earlier MK1 Superb were just some old Audi bits as far as the drive train was concerned, so being a pessimist, I thought "gearbox/diff" so handed it in after swopping wheels around, with a very heavy heart, the noise that car made, and started making quite quickly from being very quiet, was more of a wah wah like older army trucks with off road (mainly) tyres, luckily it was only a front wheel bearing so I got both sides replaced, noises gone, I never ever tried driving through that noise, I just used it as little as possible until I could get it "seen to", mileage at that time was probably near 75K miles/9years old. My wife's 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI 110PS, started making "bearing noises" when it was only over 6 years old and 30/35K miles, as I initially hoped it was uneven tyre wear, but when it came time to change from directional winter tyres to summer tyres the noise unfortunately did not go away! I did keep running it and yes, I could easily drive through that noisy band of road speed, it was just a hum that could easily be "got rid of" by turning the radio on and up a bit, I replaced both front bearing assembles and that sorted that out. Edit:- that can be the reality of running a 4WD car, always start with the worst possible source of the noise, I've only ever had, as my car, a 4WD car for the past 30 years and never yet had any "4WD" related issues.

Skoda offers various wheels note Octavia mk 3 and mk 4 are listed as Roman numerals Octavia III and IV https://www.skoda.co.uk/_doc/639a0118-4da5-446b-a786-86e1f789b57b Some in UK are trying to go down a size or two, due to poor state of roads, and damage from potholes or kerbs with bigger sizes etc.