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Here are a few pictures of the moon white color

Here you go you non-believers! 🙂

Nah he's not... I've got this on the swift along with a Lego racing driver on the dashboard...

This is what I shouted (screeched) at the Fabia when the battery died, much to the delight of the rather conservative neighbours, funnily enough.

Or Nulon's alternative https://www.shorturl.at/ptFN3

Are you worrying about the roughness of the non-toothed side? I can dredge up a pic of a newly-fitted genuine belt fitted to my Polo at a VW dealership that looks identical.

as above, and get a can of ez start... dose it through the intake, might just give enough volatility to kick off a reaction... start with the easy fixes

Ryan, petrol goes stale after it's been standing a long time & can cause non-start.

The engine indeed has a steel sump, and has a manual transmission. The 45nm bots still are there, but they only hold a thin, separate metal plate in place to cover the opening, for which I imagine 45nm is more than sufficient. I'll check the leak more closely during the weekend, and see if I'll order a new sump, and perhaps the breather as well, depending on the findings. Thanks everyone for the help so far!

I've realised that there's an option to add more photos on subsequent posts, so here are the rest:

Destructions...

I think all the ones that passed through my hands had one coil pack with 4 HT leads which was actually 2 seperate wasted spark coil packs. Bolted to the rear of the cylinder head I believe but its all a bit hazy now. I was responsable for a lot of new Ford crated 1.8 Zetecs finding their way into kit cars, Westfields, Caterhams etc back in the day. I had a source and used one to temporarily replace the 2 litre Zetec in my Caterham while I did some tuning work on it and word of mouth got around. I wish I still had some of the plastic blow moulded crates that the engines at in, they were like a section of a chocolate box liner and would accept many different 4 cylinder engines, X/flows fitted like a glove.

I put Gandalf on the Dyno today as I was curious to see how much power it was actually making with the APR Stg 1 ECU tune and DSG tune. I'm happy with the results. The torque was shigher than I expected. Outside Air temp was 20 degrees. Did 3x runs. Each time it did approx. 220 kw and 530 Nm. Being the stock IS20 turbo and intercooler, the Intake Air Temps (IAT) was getting too high, making the ECU reduce power towards the end, as u can see in the graph. A larger intercooler will help vastly with sustaining the power curve for much longer. Tis next on the cards. Max: 222.7 kW / 532.3 Nm

Has anyone on the forum put 15 or 16 inch alloys on a vrs to improve the ride I know you youngs guns wont like the idea but 50yr old bones say otherwise lol

Just fitted this stainless strip and have to say am very pleased with it. Fit and finish are faultless and although I have a fold out flap on my boot-liner this will provide an extra level of protection from our Greyhound's unfathomably long and scratchy claws! 32 quid from VF Autozone via ebay. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/334674046470

Good for another 10 years and another 100K miles so long as you keep inspecting it. It looks remarkably clean and schmoo free in there, take care to locate the cover correctly and close all the over centre clips and it should remain that way. By coincidence I checked mine this week, similar condition, original belt, 120K miles.

Wouldn't worry too much about the brakes. 9/10 times giving it some beans and dumping the clutch works, if it doesn't, just give the drums a good clubbing. Unless it's the Volvo C30 I picked up years ago when I was delivering cars for a living. Back brakes were stuck stuck and I couldn't be arsed rejecting it, so I just gave them a lengthy noisy beating with the jack and wheelbrace. After which I realised I was picking the car up from outside the coop funerals head office/call centre.

I think we've all been there at one point or another. 🤣

I'm shocked none of you have a Lego Yeti.

I'd want to see the engine barred-over so that I could see the entire length (inside and out) - but that looks fine to me. Go on, you're going to say that it's original and done over 100000 miles. 😁

Seen as 140Nm in maintenance doc, 04.2022 date. 🤪

I'm from Finland, the English I picked up by being frantically interested in everything computer. I'll snap a photo of the plate while I'm under the car on saturday. It's a 2004 Fabia, I haven't been too bothered about the oil leak, as it's only been a drop or two after I park it, but the yearly inspection rules changed recently and now you get a fail if they see even a drop of leakage. And the smell isn't nice either, as it tends to leak right on top of the exhaust. Not its only problem by far, it has a slight knock/tick sound as well, which I suspect is a valve, but it seems to take it in stride so I haven't worried about it too much. I actually had been thinking of buying the Haynes manual, but as the description on their website is vague if they cover this engine or not, I haven't yet bought it. Any idea if it does?

@Ulsinus I have not looked to see if you have posted about your cars issues other than the one about using dye to find a leak. Maybe best keep to a post covering the issues in this section until resolved.

Stop/start

Is this the part you require?? SKODA YETI 2014-2018 LEFT FRONT DOOR TRIM - 5L0853517B eBay item number:155256903884 The part Number is on the back of the trim. You will need to remove trim & check the number. Looking at the new part, its stuck on.

Proper stealthy, very nice! 😎

If it's a 56, then odds on it'll be Sprint Yellow, this being confirmed by having body colour door handles. The earlier Yellow was Lemon Yellow, a lighter more pastel shade of Yellow and this shade was a little more prone to paint fade. The Sprint Yellow - when you look at it from a refinishing / repainting perspective is a bit of a swine to match as it also fades a little, and there are two different shades of it when you talk to paint manufacturers. Park the two variants of Yellow Fabia's side by side and the difference is very noticable. As for rescuing the current paint finish, a regular machine polish should improve it, although if you dealing with different quality levels of previous paintwork then it still might come out as uniform as you hope. If you are in the realms of things needing painting i'd advise to get the whole side done as if its just a door that needs painting etc, as it'll be easier than trying to blend and fade the paint into existing.

That's just a car park spotter for those with a bad memory, I know because I've had one 🙂

My cars a March 2016 and on original AGM and it’s still going strong, I tend to do around 3-4K a year. I believe I’ve had it twice in the last 3 or 4 years where it says “12v low, drive to charge” Based on my experience I’d get another AGM as I’ve heard EFB’s on here failing and much younger than mine. When you get it replaced do get it coded especially as it’s going from 68 to 70. You’ll see the new battery does not have a BEM code as this is what Vag put on themselves but whoever codes this should know what they’re doing. I’d recommend looking for a vag specialist and just say you got the battery can they fit and code for you, be easiest and they’ll know what to do correctly first time

It certainly would. On my 2018 vRS it's PR-GM3 - Electronic engine sound (type 2).

I think it's time to stop guessing and get a fault code scan done rather than throw the parts cannon at the problem. See VCDS Owners for a list of friendly briskoda VCDS and VCP owners who can help doing a fault code scan without having to pay a dealer.

I wonder if those two horizontal bolts are only a feature with manual gearbox, which wasn't available with the 55kW 16V in UK market Fabias AFAIK? I found one image showing where they are in my Polo 9N3 collection, but that's a manual transmission, like my 9N. They appear to go the opposite way to what @varooom's image shows, and surprisingly the way my memory had them; nearer the camera/right-hand side of image than the red arrows, which were trying to show something else. I think the OP's car will have steel sump, and no such 45Nm horizontal bolts. So investigate the block breather, over-pressure idea, I suggest.

Yes, 14 x 1.5 is the correct size for your Karoq. I bought one of these from eBay a few years back - absolutely brilliant bit of kit. Makes changing wheels a doddle, as I swap summer/winter wheels annually. Mine was from TRS UK, but they're all of a muchness.

Stage 1 remap today at Avon Tuning. 272 to c. 350bhp. Picked it up 2 hours ago. Have only really had once chance to accelerate hard - yep, it’s certainly quicker!! More noticeable perhaps is the increased torque making picking up speed at lower speeds effortless and really smooth. More drivability is what I was after so, so far so good! I’ll add further thoughts when I have done more driving!

Yous are brilliant. Will keep you all posted about where this goes.

Just put a bit of bar against the drum, between the spokes of the wheels and give that a belt. Make sure there aren't a lot of black cars in the area first.

It looks in good condition, but it does look aged. But as it is, I see no damage and no sign of it looking like it's on its last legs and about to fall apart.

Hello and welcome. Good luck with your tuning!

I see exactly same part too if it helps you feel better 🤝

The car has been in for a week with an SOS warning. It wasn't software as that was the latest version, not the OCU, and eventually diagnosed as an aerial. This has been replaced, so we'll se how it goes. The issue that caused the recall, beleive it or not, is a simple misprint on page 180. The original text gives the torque for the wheelnuts as 20Nm, and has had to be corrected to 120Nm. A small typo, but the error could cause a major incident, so I understand why Skoda have made the recall.

@varooom I think I'll go for the same as what's in already - see pic attached. I know it's not rocket science. In my "youth" I've changed big ends on my Trumph Herald, for some reason flashed my Triumph Spitfire from positive earth to negative earth (I still can't remember why), modified the valves and head on my mk2 Cortina GT and put a recon engine in our VW caravanette (1971) but now, just starting my seventh decade, when I look under the bonnet of my Superb I wilt. I think (hope) I can manage a battery change though 🤗. AndyW

I doubt it, they themselves probably coined the phrase "Excessive wear" in their manual of how to upsell to pigeons, it's on the same page as "brake discs and pads 75% worn" Tha garage will just be replacing as many parts as they can get away with to boost their profits or they don't actually know what has caused the timing error (the earlier belt change sounds probable) and are firing the parts cannon and replacing everything that might be related.

Both black and both the biz!

I think there's a very good chance it's the sensor or lead, and certainly worth a go as they aren't hugely expensive. I have had this twice before though and once it turned out it was a cracked hub

DQ381 if this is what you have...

You're welcome, just pay attention to anything warning you of the engine, the rest will be this/bulb failure so a lower worry. If it has warranty, see if you can push dealer for an update to the OCU software (they are usually fairly reluctant to do this sadly sometimes)

Please don't all gang up on me......it's a genuine question, I'm not trying to be a smart arse. Why would you downshift to 1st while still moving?? I have put over 1,000,000kms on two seperate cars with the 6spd wet DSG box....... and that is something I would never have felt the need to do.

DISPLAY AIR CONDITIONING FAN SPEED IN AUTO MODE Having it in auto mode, the fan speed leds are not shown, this activates it Go to Module 08 - Air conditioning electronics Enter Extended Coding , activate top right, Bytes mode Go to byte 11 Activate Bit 6 Confirm

Central Lock Acoustic Confirmation when Locking activation (works with car alarm not tried on horn alarm) Enables sound confirmation when locking and unlocking car, as well as option to control this feature from the multimedia system menu. Module: 09 (Central Electronics) Security Access → Code: 31347 Module: 09 (Central Electronics) Adaptation → Channel: Acknowledgement signals - Akustische Rueckmeldung Entriegeln New value: active Module: 09 (Central Electronics) Adaptation → Channel: Acknowledgement signals - Akustische Rueckmeldung Verriegeln New value: active Module: 09 (Central Electronics) Adaptation → Channel: Acknowledgement signals - Dauer der Akustischen Rueckmeldung vom Einfachhorn New value: Kurz Module: 09 (Central Electronics) Adaptation → Channel: Acknowledgement signals - Akustische Rueckmeldung global New value: active Module: 09 (Central Electronics) Adaptation → Channel: Acknowledgement signals - Menuesteuerung akustische Rueckmeldung New value: active On the infotainment display go to Car → Setup → Lock & unlock and enable "Acoustic confirmation" option.

Disabling or turning down the Soundaktor Disabling or turning down the Soundaktor reduces the engine sound especially in sport mode. From the VCDS main screen click the button “Select” Click the button “A9 Structure Borne Sound” Click the button “Adaption 10” Use the Channel drop down and select “Volume of structure borne noise actuator” For me it was the only one. Enter a value. Default value is 100, setting 50 would reduce the sound by 50%. 0 would turn it off completely. Click “do it”