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Purchased this stunning Superb 1.6TDI on March 30 so it was treated to a decent valet today by a local company and topped off with a coat of Fusso Wax and she's looking amazing again

Update. I spent an hour tracking down potential issues and found the alternator pulley freewheel seized solid. So looks like that's the problem.

Thanks for the input everyone. I have ordered new NGK spark plugs.

Clearly not the Skoda EV tiddler. The smaller medium family sized one. from 50% to 100% more expensive than their cheapest one. @vrskeithdid say maybe a partner for the UpGTi. Amazed that Autoexpress should get an exclusive on any Skoda models.

Hi guys so I got an update on my issue booked into a specialist and they plugged in the vcds and discovered that someone had messed around with the revs and set them at -60 from normal idle he reset back to 0 and problem instantly solved, they did this free of charge for me and while I was there booked in for the dsg service 😄 (I couldn't wait 5weeks for the Skoda appointment)

If I remember correctly 205x55 16’s were the only recommended size for fitting snow chains. If snow chains are not a requirement or going to be fitted 215x60 is a yeti recommended tyre size.

This is what is involved

Yeah OK. 6 years. I probably would of bought replacements before pulling old ones to be honest. But you could run for longer, the kms very low. it's all about your poker face. But seriously, they do look good, but at same time they are electrical items and do degrade, insulation, electrode wear, insulator break down. A failure would probably resulting a potential disruption to journey if on a long distance haul. If local you can probably limp home. Up to you.

Not that expensive, I'd just change them if it was me.

Lift off oversteer combined with a slimy road is my guess.

i replaced this exact EFB battery on my 2017 Octavia within the last few weeks. The Octavia I had before my current model had an AGM battery. I imagine the EFB battery is now fitted as a cheaper alternative. The battery I fitted was an AGM and I have VCDS so updated the battery information using the guide above. I can recommend it except VCDS wouldn't accept the serial number in the way illustrated. I removed the "/" in the date and left spaces and VCDS was happy.

I got a call yesterday that my car finally arrived. I can pick it up in the next 1-2 weeks. My last information in March was that the planned arrival is May, and I had no further information until the yesterday call. vRS Hatch petrol ordered in Dec 2021. I update the spreadsheet.

That's one of many fault codes fixed. But I can't see how electric motor ECU no communication with BSI, communication fault with traction battery and onboard charger could be fault of a gear lever micro switch. May be low 12v battery? That's often the problem with EV's not charging 12v enough.

OK, how does a 17" tyre on a 16" rim work then?

Pretty sure those are non-replaceable LED's. If you really want to change them, you'll need to: - cut the headlight apart - remove the PCB with the LED's attached - unsolder the original LED's - find suitable replacements and resolder them - reassemble and seal the headlight Probably not worth the effort

Sounds good, best of luck.

The low charge in the battery even though the car started will have been enough to give the warning lights. http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/512313-karoq-not-used-for-10-weeks

Looks good to me. Just a bit more tyre sidewall and sorted.

@nta16BL cars were affected and had engine failures with the Shell Formula petrol. so Metros which were used as Police cars and people might of had from Motability. There were others. PS Bare in mind ESSO from different parts of the UK and the up to 5% Bio or no Bio, as E10 might not have the 10% bio. Remember that the Sainbury Super Unleaded might have up to 5% bio and maybe 0% bio, and when 97 ron (minimum) it can be 99 ron (minimum) OT, but me filling up with £97 of Gulf Super Diesel last week instead or Regular Diesel, then again the next day has been worth the extra 11 pence a litre (50 pence a gallon) my van no longer has black smoke reeking out of it stinking when starting and idling. Maybe there is an improved economy as it is running smooth and i will see on Saturday when i brim it. I have run it on Regular Diesel for 4 years. 17 years old and 118,000 miles and i just never bothered trying Super / Premium diesel in it before my error. (I usually run Asda , Morrisons or Tesco Diesel or where ever is cheap even in BMW's or other sportier diesels and never been aware of any real benefits running premium, this is the first time i have and with an older engine.)

Bear in mind Esso labelled E5 might be E0. Now we have E10 the differences are in the amount of E and the difference in the octane so there could be more variation with a variety of cars and variety of states of tune. There is no way my wife can say if the Tesco E5 99 gives more to the gallon as whilst most of her (very short) journeys are the same her journeys overall aren't regimented and can happen in different circumstances, she won't drive up the M6 for a 100 miles at 50mph as I once did to test mpg about 10-14 years ago (would that still be possible now?). And there are far too much electronics and computer interference on her standard Fabia to tell if it feels any better, though she thinks it might be going better that's probably placebo, sounds as rough as always to me. Like a lot of things in the end it probably boils down to belief over any facts or figures presented from either directions or sources.

I definitely get 3-5mpg more and smoother engine running with E5 (Esso, Shell, BP) on a 1.0 Stage 1 remapped Fabia MKIII estate. I probably fuel it 66% of the time with E5 if I can. Not sure if it has real-world performance effect on such a banger but I haven't put it on a dyno with E5/E10 to compare.

Did you have a look at the video I put into this link. - SBDR Don't get me wrong if you have the chance for a ride in a 220 take it. For other super and hypercars that just not much fun on UK roads at least. Even at totally illegal speeds you just don't know you are going as a passenger but that is the same for even mass market modern cars, 60 and 70 mph is nothing on many roads even with an average driver and even less so with a good driver ( I am not a good driver). The driver makes a big difference as a total generalisation in my experience many Fezza owners don't really know how to drive their cars because the same as many "classic" drivers they do not drive the vehicle to learn what it is capable of and what they as the are capable of driving the car. Lambo drivers tend to be a different sort, if you have the choice of going out as a passenger in a Fezza or Lambo I would suggest the Lambo. Of course some own and drive both Fezza and Lambos and other marques and types of car so it's not a solid rule. Don't bother going out with a test driver or track instructor on the public roads as they are so smooth at driving they make the speeds seem a lot lower than they actually are. I went out with a test driver, in a Noble M400, on the public roads and his driving style was so serene yet he was out driving the Fezza that was in front of us until we went passed, all within legal speed limits and safe driving, the M400 is a good car against a Fezza though, but so was my mate's Westie 4.3 V8 (well built engine). You are even more in touch with the environment in something like a Westfield than even something like a Midget, less windscreen no doors (unless you fit the granny sidescreens) lower to the ground (not as low as a Lotus Elise or Lotus/ Westfield 11) and those front cycle wing do not stop you getting slurry up your arm and nostrils (it stings). 😄 I think you saw the hurried video my neighbour made of the Midget, did you also see the hurried video my neighbour done of another mate's Westfield 130 (Ford Zetec 130 engine) with me trying to drive it with the seat too far back so I could not fully operate the accelerator (I am 1.6m the seat was adjusted for someone 1.9m) and with my (Covid) lock down locks (uncut hair) and baseball cap flying off (not in final edit). If not I can put up a link for you. I really like the ability to overtake a line of cars (but you are on the wrong side of the road for a long time and I did have to look out in case someone in the line might pull out in front of me having not looked in their mirror or not expecting my car to be with them so quickly) but I enjoy more overall having a small low powered car as it gives more entertainment and at lower speeds. Even a low powered car most of the time is only using a fraction of its power so a higher powered car is wasting more of it power much more often and for longer. All about how the car feels and makes you feel. Many like the standard VW Beetle or vans and they can hardly pull their own shadow.

Yes, 0480 as above for you

Inlet and outlet hose sizes & positioning ? height and thickness of cooler, mounting points surely they can't be the same as a bespoke unit ? Thanks for the comment.

Good on you Ford at least trying to compete..... (Cheaper, fast charging, more range, charge to 100% no bother, more power in AWD) The Ford Mustang Mach-E has been in a constant state of flux in the burgeoning, ultra-competitive EV crossover market, receiving multiple rounds of price increases until improving commodities costs led to a drop earlier this year. However, the Tesla Model Y – the Mach-E’s chief competitor – still has a massive price advantage on its Blue Oval counterpart, while order banks for the latter recently closed temporarily as the automaker works to ramp up production. Now, FoMoCo has not only dropped the price of the 2023 Ford Mustang Mach-E again, but it’s also offering a new lithium-iron phosphate battery for the crossover and reopening order banks for its EV crossover. 2023 Ford Mustang Mach-E Price Changes Model/Options 2023 Ford Mustang Mach-E Price – May 2 2022 Ford Mustang Mach-E Price – May 1 + / – May 1 Price Select RWD Standard Range $42,995 $45,995 $-3000 Select AWD Standard Range $45,995 $48,995 $-3000 California Route 1 AWD Extended Range $56,995 $57,995 $-1000 Premium RWD Standard Range $46,995 $50,995 $-4000 Premium AWD Standard Range $49,995 $53,995 $-4000 GT AWD Standard Range $59,995 $63,995 $-4000 Extended Range Battery For Premium RWD $7,000 $7,000 $0 GT Performance Edition Package $5,000 $6,000 $-1000 BlueCruise 1.2 $2,100 $1,900 +$200

Sorry, it's my fault. I didn't clarify the intention of my reply. It was an explanation of why some old stereos could be better in sound quality than new, huge touch screen, feature rich but bad sounding stereos and how to move aux cables to somewhere else. @vucko1011 I'm very sorry to hear that... I know how it feels. Please take your time and rest for a while. We will be here for more of your brilliant projects.

Swapped the bulbs over and everything works no more warning lights. I am baffled though because both bulbs are in working order.

@nta16No up early and taking Guide Dogs for the stupid out training. The detergent stuff is the same guff going on for years, better formulations, cleaner, better anti foaming, yet different formulations for different world regions even different European Countries. The stuff Royal Dutch Shell formulated a few decades back killed a few engines around the UK including police cars in Fife. Shell-VPower be it as it was Nitro+ or just Nitro or what ever is just extra cost for nothing extra special. As for Pump fuel in F1 cars and those ads. You get 100+ (102 ron even) Shell V-Power at pumps near the Factories and tracks in Italy. ie *Normal Shell Filling Station.* http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/421463-where-do-you-fill-up-supermarket-fuel-vs-brand-name-premium/page/3 The Octane you want consistently and not all the extra stuff. As used in race series and track days and just when you have the vehicle that performs well with it. http://vitalequipment.co.uk/collections/carless-hiperflo Royal Dutch Shell, premium fuels and regular fuels at premium prices for premium profits. So much extra for the same special additive packages as the others add, but do not spend the same millions on advertising and sponsorship. UK Fuels. from UK filling stations pumps and do they make any different in a 1.0 or 1.2 TSI standard or remapped? well try and see. At least know what you are buying & paying for though.

Blimey, did you get out the wrong side of the bed and hit your head and stub your toe. 😄 Yes and the outside of the car might get washed and polished too. These TSI, FSI, TSFI, wotever engines need all the help you can give them, sound badger's-arse rough at the best of times, mind I remember the m-i-l's Golf Mk2 1.6 petrol sounded rough and I was used to BLs. 🤣 You lost me there, are you now favouring Shell V-Power over the the others for cleaning properties? And I agree with the OP I think calling 95 something like Regular makes more sense.

We are going back to the garage with it today, hopefully they can fix it, not just “reset” it 🤞

Daytime Running Lights (Day light running lights) are for others to see your car in broad day light, day time and not when Side Light / position lights & head lights are on. Are yours annoying you when it is dark for Stylee reasons, or are they annoying other drivers / road users. If it is annoying other users when headlights are on then they should be changed. If it is you they annoy, then why are you out of the car looking at them?

It's being reported on Honda forum (link below), April 2023. I've also seen it on other owners forums, I'll have a search tomorrow. Remember though, many owners just use their phones as hotspots and therefore don't know of the problem !!! https://www.hondacivicforum.co.uk/threads/2015-civic-1-8-ex-traffic-alert-and-detour-stopped-working.86586/

Not all the wheels will fit, the smaller models (Fabia, Scala, Kamiq) use 100mm PCD (bolt spacing), wheels for these won't fit the 112mm spaced bolts of the Karoq. You need wheels with 57.1mm centre bore (most VW group cars are), 5 bolt 112 PCD and an ET of about 43-45 ( this is offset, how far out the bolt plate is from being in line with middle of wheel), being couple of mm out is not much if that is all you can find. Look at VW, Audi, Seat and Skoda, can always change centre cap badges

We took the VRS down to Newquay in April for the wife's birthday. As usual, it didn't miss a beat! Comfortable and fast when it needs to be. I arranged with a mechanic friend to finally get the springs fitted to the VRS! Ordered some new Bilstein topmounts too, just in case. Car has done 88k so figured they were past their best. It was quite obvious when the car was jacked up that both the shocks were leaking therefore spring fitting was postponed 😒 Just pricing up 2 new front Bilstein B4s. Might as well upgrade! Managed two tip runs, one with a complete garden waste bin in the back, who said they aren't practical! Had to give the interior a full hoover, clean the leather and re-balm the leather after that though 😁 Lastly, my trick with a centre cap didn't work at all. It sits proud and the clear lacquer just scratched off. I may have to fork out for genuine Skoda ones or fancy Kopacek ones. Any other recommendations?

Hi both@toot @Gerrycan, Thanks for your help with this. Sorry for the delay, the email notifications had landed in my Junk. I've just put in E10 fuel in at Esso instead of the more expensive E5 I normally go for. It was a private dealership that I got the car from and they didn't charge me for the new Lambda sensor. I'm not fully certain on the history of the plugs @tootbut I'll look into this. I think it was confusing me as it said 'Super Premium' in the fuel cap, attached. I'll let you both know if there are any further issues. Thanks again.

Glad I could help😁

Sorry I was not being serious with the question, I chose to have the same colour body and same wheels, other than perhaps Minilite style wheels I prefer steel wheels with chrome hubcaps. I also liked the swept front wings but Westfield would not put then on the SEiGHTs as they made the from too light at higher speeds. The front cycle wings were fun to see as you rightly put they turned with the front wheels. I also preferred the indicators in the swept wing and larger headlights and bowls but they would be in the way of the cycle wing guards when turning. Note the original The Prisoner's 7 is with hand signals (and fixed seat back rest. There was very little aerodynamic in the shape of the cars and windscreens, hence eye protection. The Favorit was a few years before the Mini, she did not like the driving position in the Mini and it is a bit odd, plus she really wanted the Fiat Cinquecento which she bought later that year when the new UK registration was out. I did not want to get a Fiat as they were as Fiats generally were not that well built and would have issues fairly soon and the UK Fiat Dealerships and not great even by English Dealership standards, unfortunately I was proved right about these things but luckily not too badly and her car was resprayed "lipstick red" by a local place that done a good job under warranty especially after I was asked what I had used to clean the car and reeled off a list of polishes and waxes, I could not do that now as I do not use them, or can remember a list. 😄 They are low cars so it takes an idiot and bad driving to flip them. The roll (over) bar is not just for show it does function but like "classics" there are very few safety features compared to more modern cars, seatbelts are great, the roll bar not anywhere near as effective without seatbelt. Biggest safety measure is to totally avoid getting into any problems and drive better. There was a Lotus 6 before the Lotus 7, a mate had a 6 back in the 60s, they were not worth as much then. There is a whole load of history with Caterham and Westfield and why the Westfields had to be developed on so were able to fit in different and bigger engines and the motorbike engines and Caterhams had little development. There were are lots of kit-car copies of the Lotus 7 not usually anywhere near as good as the Westfield or Caterham. Friends have had Mercs and some were real V88 AMGs (not just trim level badge) and they are not what I enjoy, AMGs at least have the right exhaust noise. We have had a few Kei cars and they are ideal for the better UK roads. It is not about the ego speed on the dial it is all about how the car feels on the road and makes you feel as the driver (or passenger). Better UK roads are 60mph or now 50 or even 40 in places so lots of power and speed is either not possible or a waste. Straight fast roads are OK for a quick cleaning blow out but to me are very boring very soon and higher speeds are potentially much bigger damage. Sorry I do not believe in excessive regard for any, well, anything, there is a Jag 220 in the club that has often taken people out at SBDRs, I have not been out in it but I believe there is a lot of noise and the radio might shoot out of of its housing on acceleration but that might be a myth(?). I was out on a mixed car run, in the Midget, with a McLaren (something, it was orange) and unfortunately I got stuck behind it at one point on a country road and like all these super and hyper cars it is too wide-arsed so had to slow or even pull over on not even that narrow country roads holding us up on gaps I could have got a standard car through easily and the Midget one and a half times. I have had this before on other runs with Fezzas (Lambo drivers are generally a different type and less cautious). The family that owned the Jag 220 also had a few other cars too and liked small quirky cars and had ones like the (3-wheel) Grinnall Scorpion, Carver One (leaning 3-wheeler with original Kei-class Diahatsu Copen engine) and had a 'grey import' Copen before my wife got her early UK Copen. Some in the club like us could barely afford a Midget and others have a fleet of vehicles but we are all just people.

The OP does say they were on a little bark/mud having turned quickly right for the corner. Anyone can get it wrong on corners on gravel or mud or cow sh!te or what ever. Especially so if not paying attention.

Finally had a reply from "Skoda auto" they are aware of the issue and will reply. At least they have admitted the issue, unlike RRG and Lookers

Finally messaged powerflex to try warranty the dogbone bush. Extremely impressed with how quick they were to respond and send another out. Its a revised part so hopefully won't break again. In now and feels great. New pads on the front. Bit of life left in them but since I had the Mtec pads I threw them on. Feel great and so far no noise. Discs were lost in transit so I've got my money back from them. Ended up swapping the rear pads from the Mtecs to some Ferodo pads as they got very squealy. Guessing I got some dud rear pads. Alls fine now so far. New discs already rusted as it's been teaming rain.

I would say 500rpm at idle is too low.

I don't understand this review at all. I have ordered many times from this company - including twice in the last 2 months to the UK. The first thing they ask is confirmation that you understand the need to cover import charges but once you confirm this then the items are shipped and arrive via Parcelforce in about 3-4 days. Even with import duty the parts I have ordered from them have all been around 30% cheaper than buying from a dealer in the UK and some of their 3rd party accessories are simply not available to buy in the UK. I ordered some quite large items from them including roof bars & side skirts for my Yeti - no issue with sizing whatsoever. All items have arrived in perfect condition - their 3rd party accessories are very good quality - I am very satisfied with them as a customer. The only thing I would say is to check what you're ordering VERY carefully to be 100% certain it's the correct item for your car, as trying to communicate with them for returns is quite difficult - mostly seems to be because of the language barrier. As for never replying - they have ALWAYS replied to me, but my email software does file their replies in SPAM folder so it's worth checking in there.

Literally, Greece IS part of Milky-way. So is UK, though... I know I should be more specific on my profile. What about Orion-Cygnus Arm? 😇

It has been a while hasn't it...hello again. Where I left off with an o2 sensor fault, I bought a new Bosch sensor and that was sorted. I've done a few bits and pieces over the last few months New rocker cover gasket with cam chain tensioner gasket Bit of a pain to change the tensioner gasket to be honest New knock sensors because I thought the knock I saw from my logs was just bad sensors, it wasn't bad sensors. new uprated fuel pump, didn't really need it but it's done now so... Today I went to badger5 and the got got a stage 1 remap I had been doing some mapping on it myself but other than successfully deleting the sai myself I wasn't happy with the amount of knock and overboost I was getting even on the standard map. I chose badger5 because I'd heard good things and they didn't disappoint, Bill remapped the car and it runs spot on now making a healthy 211bhp and 259ftlb. He advised me to upgrade the intercooler next as it will help with the air intake temps. I'll be looking at intercoolers, suspension and brakes next. I'll also try harder to keep this blog up to date 😂

I'd had a slight rattle from the OSR for a while. It was easily diagnosed as the dust guard but it wasn't really bothering me or causing any issues in daily driving. I washed the car last weekend and when cleaning the inside of the wheels, the guard shifted slightly so I thought I'd have a closer look. The wheel came off and so did the dust guard. It simply slid out of place and as you can see, it's totally rusted through. I've ordered a non-genuine replacement which should come this week. The next thing is, do I replace the guard myself or pass this onto someone else? This is what's left after taking the guard off.... I'd appreciate any advice as I am happy to tackle things myself but if this looks like it could be tricky, I'm also very happy to pay someone else to sort it out. On another note, it was catch can time and after 600 miles, this is how much was collected.

Small update, bought me a racey red and black silicone key cover for the pricely sum of £4.49 from eBay 😅 Also had some coding completed and my dashcam hardwired in by a company called Retrofits South West. Paid £40 for coding and £80 for dash cam. I had coded: LED sidelights LED numberplate lights Passenger mirror drops in reverse Dual rear fog lights Up the brightness of the reversing bulbs I tried to add Skoda Surround and Virtual Subwoofer but my nav unit is too old. Also realised one of my xenon bulbs is on its way out. Hard to see from the picture but the right hand side is definitely more yellow and starting to flicker. Osram Nightbreakers are on the list but cheapest I can find is £135 a pair! 😟

I'm aware the mod for 30 colour pallet in the ambient lighting screen has been mentioned several times on the forum. TLDR: The RGB values used on available in the table at the bottom on my post. There was some rough guidance on RGB values, but I wanted to aim for an OEM+ look. I've taken some time build a colour pallet of 30 colours based on the original 10 that come as standard. Rather than attempting to join up the dots by looking at raw RGB values, I've built a gradient for the 10 RGB values from the originals. I then referenced 30 colours from the gradient and noted down the values. Below is the original screen values, the gradient, and the 30 colours picked out. The ambient lighting strip uses different colours values to the screen values, interesting though, the white value from the ambient light strip is actually a light green, but appears white on the strip. The original pallet prior to coding: The 30 colour pallet after coding. A massive thanks for @Ivan8192 for helping with the script, and allowing access to his VCDS again! and to @SashaGracefor piquing my interest into this mod. For anyone interested the RGB values are available below: Screen Ambient Strip Basic Colour Red Green Blue Basic Colour Red Green Blue White 217 221 233 White 120 231 71 229 205 161 163 221 49 241 190 88 205 211 26 Yellow 253 174 16 Yellow 247 202 4 254 155 18 234 167 2 254 135 34 208 128 3 Orange 253 115 50 Orange 183 89 5 251 85 52 189 60 5 247 51 47 215 40 4 Red 244 18 43 Red 241 20 3 244 19 73 255 27 17 247 59 142 255 65 49 Lilac 251 100 212 Lilac 255 105 82 232 109 243 244 134 112 197 98 247 196 136 136 Magenta 163 86 251 Magenta 149 138 160 129 77 255 104 139 183 87 85 255 70 130 207 Blue 45 93 255 Blue 37 121 229 5 101 255 4 111 251 0 127 255 8 142 226 Cyan 1 156 255 Cyan 17 179 194 1 184 255 26 215 162 1 194 214 35 229 120 Green 0 197 157 Green 45 236 73 0 200 99 54 242 27 30 210 70 58 228 3 Lemon 88 227 65 Lemon 58 196 2 145 244 60 57 163 1 182 255 57 57 132 0

Not posted for ages but thought you might be interested to know that I've agreed today to part ex my ĺ&k 280 hatchback. Coming up to 3 years old but less than 13k on clock. Velvet red with cream leather, clean both inside and out. Dealers adamant there are no new l&k's out there but I'm chuffed cos I snagged literally the only brand new sportline 280 in the UK. Comes with loads of expensive options and I got a great deal. Black interior so will be a real change from the old l&k, so excited!

BRIEFING After more than a year with a JB4, around a month back I decided to find out whether I had been missing out on some extra oomph... JB4 is good for 340bhp/430Nm on these cars and average times of 13.0" for 100-200km/h and sub 5's 0-100 (my PB was 4.8"), it is a solid improvement over stock, plus you keep your warranty intact. However coming from a faster car I soon got used to it and then I was really intrigued by REVO's claims about GPF cars actually not being as restricted as originally expected, in fact making even more torque with the same boost levels as the pre-GPF cars and mapping to the same 370bhp as before. I decided this had to be put to the test, purely for sciencitfic purposes of-course. I also got a R600 intake and a Racingline turbo inlet pipe to replace the stock items but I did install them after I did a few measurements with only the REVO map and all stock hardware to compare. https://www.onlyrevo.com/blog/all-new-gpf-stage-1-software-for-2-0t-ea888-gen-3-is38/ At the same time, the tuner warned me that the DQ381, is occasionally struggling even with stage 1 torque levels which is well on the 500Nm side. I hadn't noticed any slippage with the JB4 but then that was making 70Nm less and the truth is, I had not been entirely happy with the box's behaviour during manual operation and launching the car. Manual mode on the DQ381 is much jerkier than on the previous DQ250 to the point it made it unpleasant to me to drive it in manual, whereas my DQ250 car before was being driven in M mode, 95% of the time. Also, when using Launch Control, the car would often bog down as if ESP was kicking in (it shouldn't on a AWD car in Launch mode). In an attempt to adress all than then, I went for the TVS's stage 2+ DSG remap at the same time as the ECU remap. The stage 2 refers to the extra clutch clamping pressure, whereas the "+" in the name is essentially a side-remap so to speak, including several drive-ability and life extension features being added (more info in the link below), as well as having various modes and behaviours optimized (response times, shift points etc). I knew TVS as top DSG specialists hardware-wise and their DSG map reviews were excellent so: "add that to the basket too..." https://tvsengineering.com/en/dsg-transmission/dq380-dq381/?fbclid=IwAR0ABBTfq8HoVxf3egD_5WUFCWgKc0YHC1mLGHmMvVcKpnoJC5VNfqEa3sE

Here is eibach sportline with 19" wheels to. Love the stiffness, not to much and not to little. If i haven't had this car as allround and family car i might wan't some more stiffness. Nice and low and only thing iv'e scraped so far is mudflaps on a really high speedbumb that was placed over an electrical cabel. Haven't scraped the front yet even though my friend whith his golf r with standard springs and a maxton lip does scrapes here and there.