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No... The white indication has nothing to do with the sensor being dirty or otherwise impaired. Apparently this needs some clarification: Appears at most startups and goes away within 30 seconds. The front assist system is calibrating its detection and intervention points by scanning the area in front of the car. This is what pops up when the sensor is dirty and front assist becomes unavailable.

If yours is a DSG car, sport mode can be engaged by pulling the gear selector backwards and disengaged by repeating the action. Very useful for a quick burst of power/speed - I use it a lot for exiting junctions while towing.

It depends which MY your Superb is, from the facelift model (2019 on) the keys have a movement sensor which stops transmitting any signal when it's not being moved.

It probably does... The drive is away from the house and the keys are in the pouch in a small drawer in the middle of the house... But for the sake of a few quid for a new one...

My Swift has kessy and I use a Faraday bag. It's a few years old but still works perfectly as the car won't open with the key in the bag even when stood next to the car door.

The further the number from zero, the greater the offset. Most modern cars have positive offset so a higher number pushes it further under the car. Thus a lower number (towards zero offset from the center line) brings it out.

Nope - you have MIB1 unit, none MIB1 unit supports it. To have Android Auto and Apple CarPlay you must have USB and both glove box and dsiplay units retrofitted. If you have CANTON sound system the power amplifier must be retrofitted as well.

I have just switched back from my 16 inch winter wheels to the 18 inch car came with, on resurfaced roads can't tell difference, but the 18s are lot more rumbly on most country roads and don't ride the imperfections as well. Photo of my Arona with 16 inch wheels on (rims are Borbet Y which fit perfectly with same bolts, no adaptors). Second photo is for comparison to 18 inch summer tyres

The problem with switching to INRIX is that the location tables (which specify through a 16 bit code precisely where on the road network an incident is located) are proprietary to each service provider. Trafficmaster on Capital/Heart uses (or used to use) location table 0x07 and INRIX on Classic uses 0x0A. So unless I am mistaken (and both UK providers somehow used the same location identifiers, but gave their services different table identifiers) this makes the map data (which contains the mapping of location IDs to actual physical locations) totally incompatible. In fact it’s intentionally designed that way to prevent you switching providers without paying for the location table mappings of the new provider. Therefore a map update is almost certainly required to switch providers, since original maps would have only included the location table for the provider originally contracted with at the time of production (ie. Trafficmaster 0x07). I’ve debugged the data being received on another VAG platform (Audi’s RNSE system) and can confirm that although the TMC identifier for table 0x07 is still being transmitted on Capital and Heart, there are no actual TMC messages present. Classic on the other hand still has its 0x0A identifier AND has actual messages being broadcast. I’m going to attempt a switch in the RNSE firmware to listen to the alternate table ID, but I’m 99.99% sure that the location IDs will be different and so this will ultimately prove fruitless (or at the very least result in totally garbled meaningless locations).

that looks great @Tailhappy I am getting my 1990 120L 5 speed next week incidentally what electronic ignition do you use on yours as I will look to fit something to mine

Not much wildlife on display this evening, but the Bluebells are stunning and it was an ideal sky for reflections 👍

After seeing so many people doing it the wrong way, I decided to make my own video

Vacuum advance capsules came as part of the distributor for as long as I can remember but I have a new one somewhere. Message me if you need one and it's yours for the price of postage.

You kept this one quiet over on the 'beige, didn't you. Or did I just not notice?

Brings a whole new dimension on going for spin.

The 18 inch take 235/55 R18 on 7J ET 43 rims 17 inch use 215/65 R17 on 7J ET40, but the official Skoda wheel brochure (linked) also has Nanuq with winter tyres, these are 6.5J ET38 Of course don't have to buy Skoda wheels. https://www.skoda.co.uk/_doc/639a0118-4da5-446b-a786-86e1f789b57b I am finding I am using my winter tyres for a longer season, from late October until at least start of May, now I live in more rural area, as they deal with muddy field run off and rutted country roads so much better even at +10 to +15c than the summer tyres which are dreadful in wet below about +10c

Mines a MY 21 SeL and its permanently live. I often plug a tyre inflator compressor into it when parked on the drive, without turning on the ignition. So unless it operates when a door is opened, its permanently live...

Good point... I'll check again later as I had just been in the pouch so may not have closed it properly

Doesn't that give you the protection you need though? If someone's trying to scan your key's signal, it'll be in the house and not closer than a couple of yards away. I've kept my keys in a Faraday pouch since I bought the car in 2017 and the pouch is kept in the opposite side of the house to the driveway. I've not had any problems, though you could leave it unlocked with the keys in it around here and nothing would happen. The only time I really need the bag is whenever we're away from home where the risk of theft is higher.

If you reset it yourself then most likely on Fixed Service regimes then. Hopefully at the right level now then the light will not come on. No harm in having the oil in the top cross hatch area & not above when the oil is hot.

It was exactly 2.8 litres I put in after draining the old oil and replacing the filter. I'm unsure if I have the service indicator on fixed or variable. The indicator did come on months ago but I reset it due to doing my own annual service.

The Fabia MK2 used 7J rims for its 205/40R17 tyre size. The Polo MK5 used 7J rims for its 215/40R17 tyre size. The Rapid used 7J rims for its 215/40R17 tyre size. The Audi A1 used 7.5J rims for its 215/40R17 tyre size.

You are looking at the Filter info for what you showed with the Code on the Box. So all well there. ? So was it 2.8 litres you put in from a Oil drain and Oil filter replacement? **YOUR ENGINE SINCE NOT THE 44kW 1.2 DOES GET CHECKED AT NORMAL OPERATING TEMP, NOT AS SKODA SAY 'WARM', AS VW SAY. 'HOT' or NORMAL OPERATING TEMPERATURE.** The Yellow Low Oil warning has nothing to do with the Oil Services interval / regime or state of the Oil. ............... Different subjuct though, Is the service indicator reset and do you have it on fixed or variable, 9,400 miles / 372 days. or 24 months>

Thanks Toot.....Im trying to decipher what I'm looking at😂 I think its showing that I have the correct filter??

I removed the old seal....here is the box for the filter... Is that correct?

@geochrGood you use the new seal. Are you certain the old one is not still fitted? & Aha, there is your first possible issue. Assuming the correct filter came from Dingbro. Put up the code on it, someone will know the correct filter. That is why i get mine at D&A Motor Factors.

What was the Oil level before you changed it, was it in Area A of the Dipstick when at operating temperature? How much oil did you drain and how much have you filled it with. Is the level in the Area A when at operating temperature so above 80*oC when parked on the flat and stopped for a few minutes? EDIT. Sorry, my bad. Your engines oil capacity is not much if 2.8 Litres, and gets checked cold. Not at Operating Temperature. Is it 5w 30 FS III oil you used, so VW504 00 ? ? Are you sure the correct filter is used and the old seals removed? If you get a Low Oil Yellow can light, or message and open the bonnet it stays off for about 60 miles even if you never topped up the oil.

Are you using the 7Jx16 ET45 rims, or the narrower 6Jx16 ET50 rims? They should both be listed in the Certificate of Conformity. Using 6J instead of 7J rims for the 205/55R16 should give a noticeable improvement in the ride. All-season tyres with the 3PMSF symbol are winter rated, even though they can be used all year round. So I doubt you would have any legality issues in France with 205/55R16 all-season tyres (or winter tyres) fitted to these 6Jx16 ET50 winter rims on the Yeti 1.6 diesel. Maybe the Swedish winter tyres have particularly thick and inflexible sidewalls, resulting in a hard ride? It's possible the sidewalls have been reinforced on the Swedish winter tyres, because Nordic winter tyres will often be used in deep snow where you can't always see the kerb. Hence, reinforced sidewalls might be used to help stop the tyres being damaged when you accidentally hit the kerb in the deep snow. Add in the relatively wide 7J rims for the 205/55R16 tyre size, and you have a recipe for a hard ride. Yeti steel rim for winter tyre 6Jx16 ET50 5/112 57.1 22 8P0601027 Steel rim for winter tires 6Jx16 ET50 5/112 4 PR-1G1 8P0601027 03C rally black

Thanks! Will try tomorrow and let you know if I was able to download. Otherwise i’ll send you a link of my own server.

For fault codes, which are often only a pointer in the right direction rather than the full diagnostics solution, you could perhaps see if there is someone local to you with a VCDS or suitable machine to see what information it can give. It's also good to have a second independent reading you can see done in front of your eyes and see the readout and have recorded report. Here is a list of Briskoda members that may be able to help you. - Briskoda VCDS Owners Map (click me) The car could have something like a turbo actuator fault plus need a regen. The regen does take more than most people realise and a lot more if you are only used to driving the car steadily and over shorter journeys, and you don't want a low tank of fuel. It may or may not be a crap car, and being an older modern diesel it may or may not be suited to your driving and usage - it could be a good car just with common and easily resolved problems, or not, over the internet no one is going to be able to confirm (at least this early on). You'd probably not want to do as these guys did and certainly not until you know for sure what the actual problems are and this may not be necessary if other issues are resolved. - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j6nIjAglvLw Personally I'd try to find someone on that list above to at least do a full scan and report and then based on that information consider whether to go for a proper blowout run, or IF I could bounce the car back (despite consumer laws this might not be possible in the real world) or whether to get the repairs and keep the car or sell it on. I've had dealings with the English motor trade for decades so know how things are in real life as opposed to the ideals, theories and laws, if you are dealing with totally dishonest, or totally incompetent or lazy, people it's difficult to get anywhere useful with them. That doesn't necessarily mean you shouldn't try though, you know your situation I don't.

I regularly see collision investigator and vehicle examiner reports in the course of my job, I have seen reference to the type, age, condition and tread depth but never a reference to whether the tyre is type approved for the vehicle. How can any owner or vendor be at fault when a mod was done by a previous owner, are they supposed to check the original spec of every car they sell? I presume any lawyer appointed would hedge his bets on such a case and take it on a no-win, no-fee basis.

It certainly seems so if people say that, say, ET45 is "more offset" than ET35. If they said the higher number was "more inset" it would be clearer.

@pcbbc - this might not be too helpful for your RNSE but the MIB2 maps hint at GB INRIX support so it might include the location table for you? Snippets from the latest Amundsen/Discover Media MIB2 map update. maps\00\cfg\mapcfg\SKODA\traffic\tmc\TmcProviders\TmcProviders.xml <tmc_provider name="Trafficmaster" id="2"> <encryption_method>light</encryption_method> <cc>GB</cc> <sid>7</sid> <ltn_transmitted>7</ltn_transmitted> <ltn_used>7</ltn_used> </tmc_provider> <tmc_provider name="Inrix" id="12"> <encryption_method>light</encryption_method> <cc>GB</cc> <sid>55</sid> <ltn_transmitted>10</ltn_transmitted> <ltn_used>10</ltn_used> </tmc_provider> maps\00\cfg\mapcfg\SKODA\traffic\tmc\TmcProviderSets\TmcProviderSets.xml <!-- VW TMCpro --> <!-- 32768 + 3 --> <tmc_provider_set id="32771" use_free_tmc="true" use_online_traffic="true"> <provider_ref id="1" mode="non-exclusive" /> <provider_ref id="2" mode="non-exclusive" /> <provider_ref id="5" mode="non-exclusive" /> <provider_ref id="12" mode="non-exclusive" /> </tmc_provider_set> The factory setting for IDE05111-Fee-based traffic information (TMC) is 32771 for me which suggests it should be using Trafficmaster with the option to fallback to INRIX. The headunit certainly knows that Classic is a TMC source and seems to want location table 10 (0x0A): Makes me wonder what's missing....

I've only just changed back to 205/55/16 Contis as they were more economical after a prolonged period on 215/60/16. The ride is now crashy and harsh again, I would go back to 215/60/16 in a heartbeat, I don't subscribe to the type approval mania that infects some club sites. Illegal is a big word, I would imagine there will be a typically gaelic response from the chap who sold you the car

isn't contrary?

full under tray cover comes for small engines (with smaller exhaust system) pictures -> https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/392652-exhausts/

Some crossed wires here I think. What the OP wants to know is how do you use steering wheel buttons to reject a call when the phone rings, not how to end a call which you’ve answered. AFAIK the only way to reject the call is on the infotainment screen.

Fook, good luck getting this sorted. It’s threads like these that will be available online for years that do companies like Cazoo no favours at all! Thoughts with you! 💪🏼

Those holes r used to fit under trays, as u have on the other side. But when there is an exhaust, u can't put an under tray. Those holes r also used to fit aftermarket rear bumper side skirts, such as these.

In the end I bought this one from AliExpress. Part of the ad for it was that it was a replacement for screens on which the polarisation had broken down, so I thought it might be a good bet that it was anti-glare. My son installed it in about an hour today and it seems to have restored my head unit to good working order. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004861752111.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.5.21ef1802jZbkM9

Sorry Varoom, I thought that's was new version.

Hi all, so I promised an upgrade. I have in principle traded the car in for a Volvo s60 D3. Not the update I think many wanted but it was driving me insane. Thanks to everyone who commented and tried to help, it really was appreciated.

As a last ditch effort I have written to the head of Skoda UK, Matthew Bowden, and posted it off to their head office. I doubt it will make and difference, but hopefully it will highlight the reality of some customers 'experience' with the brand.

FWIW I had a Revo stage one on my 2015 220 TSI vRS (DSG), and was very happy with it . Never got to RR it after the map, but it pulled harder than a local vRS with a known 300bhp, so was considered to be 310 to 320bhp, maybe a smidge more. Opinions seem a bit divided between Revo and Racingline, some viewing Racingline as providing a more tailored and progressive map. Gaz

Some pics of Gandalf after a morning run....

We now have rear kessy handles working as well as fully working rear door warning lamps!

My Combi lost the ability to lift the tailgate just a day before the MOT (it sailed through). My mechanic was quoted just shy of £600 for a pair of powered lifters, or £130 for manual ones. I sourced a new pair from ebay for £215 (I offered vs £230) they arrived inside a week (FOC delivery via Evri and arrived on time) Fitting took me just under half an hour, armed with a tiny screwdriver, and a blunt chisel to pry the plastics. Hopefully that's another few years of service 🌞

I bought a year ago. Current mileage 5335 miles. My first Skoda.

I corner by turning the steering wheel, I assume you still have that?

I have noticed a big improvement in tyre noise and comfort with 32 psi pressures all round. I've dropped them to 32 psi this morning to try for a few weeks. I chose black alloys as i hoped they wouldn't need cleaning as often as the Braga alloys.